or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Anthracite Coal Build - Page 3

post #61 of 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

I deff think I'm going the route of shelves even though it will be more. I think it will be easier to setup. I can then add faceplates if I want to the shelves or just add a door. I don't know where I'm at with that.

Be careful there - the custom faceplates are part of the RSH shelf, they don't just attach to the front of any shelf later...

Quote:


I assume that my framing won't change if I decide to add a door down the road?

You mean a door on the rack? Yeah, you want to read all the A&E specs to make sure... Definitely could change the trim clearance, for example.

Jeff
post #62 of 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

http://www.middleatlantic.com/power/lt1r.htm

the top 2 are the powerstrip/ light u are talking about. if so they are pretty cool.

Yep, I got the "designer inspired" light/power strip. Really like it, and with the USB plug in the back, I use one of their gooseneck LED lights when I've got the rack out to work on it.

Quote:


my cabinet guy wants me to make the RO 2" larger to allow for jams to be put in place and then we can do a little reveal when the trim is added. this will give me some wiggle room for 3/4 jams and to shim and level it. I think this might look nice. It will frame it out like a window. i can add the strips that cover the screws after everything is installed cause i think i'm not going to do a door. i really like the faceplate look.

Look at the Gasket kit from MA which can be used to fill in around the rack to cover any gaps. And yes, the cover strips are a very nice finish.

Quote:


i also saw those universal shelves to throw global cache units on and other little networking things that are needed for my remote setup.

I bought one of those for that reason (the half-depth one, was going to mount it on the rear rail), but ended up just laying the small stuff on the DVD player and velcro'ed the Ethernet switch under a shelf.

Jeff
post #63 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post


Be careful there - the custom faceplates are part of the RSH shelf, they don't just attach to the front of any shelf later...

You mean a door on the rack? Yeah, you want to read all the A&E specs to make sure... Definitely could change the trim clearance, for example.

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks for the info re the custom plates. I'll check that out tonight. So any gear that I want a faceplate on needs to use only these shelves?
post #64 of 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

Thanks for the info re the custom plates. I'll check that out tonight. So any gear that I want a faceplate on needs to use only these shelves?

Some folks have modified the faceplates to work on other shelves, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you've got real skill in metal. Crapping up a faceplate isn't my idea of a good time.

Jeff
post #65 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Some folks have modified the faceplates to work on other shelves, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you've got real skill in metal. Crapping up a faceplate isn't my idea of a good time.

Jeff

lol thanks!
post #66 of 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

Right now yes cause the ib3 clips aren't in yet. We have to add the knee wall still that will drop down to catch the lower wall before the ductwork to front wall. That ductwork span is about 40". I won't really know till I get the clips in or should I just fix that today?

Am I ok with my space between the joists and to plate on that wall being the space is only 1/2" to 3/4"?

Also what do u think of the way we are attaching the knee wall to the joists and using clips on the knee wall to the top plate for decouple.

Are those two things ok?

thanks,

Sorry was building a theater yesterday. To answer your questions.

In my basement it would get fixed.

1/2 inch to 3/4 is fine

If you want to attach the top plate of a the wall to the dangling part of a knee wall that I see in the picture You will need a little more space for the base of the clip, and it will need to get screwed to the top plate of the wall before you mount the knee wall, It should also go on the back side. Not on the finished side.
post #67 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


Sorry was building a theater yesterday. To answer your questions.

In my basement it would get fixed.

1/2 inch to 3/4 is fine

If you want to attach the top plate of a the wall to the dangling part of a knee wall that I see in the picture You will need a little more space for the base of the clip, and it will need to get screwed to the top plate of the wall before you mount the knee wall, It should also go on the back side. Not on the finished side.

So I'm going to attach the clip to the wall first line it up with the knee wall to make sure I have enough space so I don't recouple the wall and then attach everything? And make sure the clip is on the outside of the room wall.

I'm sorry if I not catching this.
post #68 of 123
post #69 of 123
Big, your drawings are priceless. I would hate to play a game of win lose or draw against you.
post #70 of 123
BIG has a toolbox of sophisticated drawing tools to help him with those:



(and yes, his pictures are worth at least 4500 words...)
post #71 of 123
Thread Starter 
Yes a drawing! I'm officially in the club! Thanks for that! I'm a visual learner.

I appreciate it! Oh btw I hate toe nailing. I suck at putting up nailers. I just can't get comfortable with the impact driver.

Jim
post #72 of 123
Toe screw instead of toe nail, Use a drill to drill pilot holes, put in 4 deck screws then lift up and drive the screws home. You can work on the floor or a workbench instead of up in the joist space.
post #73 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Toe screw instead of toe nail, Use a drill to drill pilot holes, put in 4 deck screws then lift up and drive the screws home. You can work on the floor or a workbench instead of up in the joist space.

Yes toe screw. Sorry. Oh pilot holes! I was starting 2 on the flood to make it easier but I suck overhead! Oh and I never used a hammer drill before. . . We are using tappers for the bottom plate and I've been song the pilot holes, very fun piece of equipment. I can't believe how fast and powerful it is!

I am really loving this journey so far.

And I can't say thanks enough to everyone for the help! I just hope some are home following along.

Jimi
post #74 of 123
Hi Jim,

Looking at your diagrams on first page. I am seeing "subs" where I would have thought "surrounds" would go. And then there's that single inwall .. in the floor? ... in the rear.

I'm sure I am somehow misinterpreting ...

Jeff (Linda's bro-in-law)
post #75 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

Hi Jim,

Looking at your diagrams on first page. I am seeing "subs" where I would have thought "surrounds" would go. And then there's that single inwall .. in the floor? ... in the rear.

I'm sure I am somehow misinterpreting ...

Jeff (Linda's bro-in-law)

Hey Jeff,

Thanks for stopping by! I was just looking over ur room. M&K's were one of the first speakers I heard and loved when I graduated from college. They are great!

So the side columns will have surrounds along with the 2 rear columns.

My drawing is kinda hard to read cause I 'm not good wit those programs but i got arrows somewhere showing about the surrounds too.

The side columns will also have subs mounted in them. Along with 1 in the front and the back is yet to be determined. It might go in the riser it might not. When I get my acoustic plan that will be decided.

The reason for the 4, 1 on each wall is for more even coverage from what I was told. Originally there were 2 up front 2 in the year and that was changed to the present from the person who helped with initial design. Either way was correct he just thought this way might be better, but again it might change after we do the acoustics when I get the framing done.

Putting the back one in the riser should be interesting. I was thinking if my acoustic treatments are thick enough maybe i can mount it on the wall cause it's sealed on the riser and the acoustic treatments will make it look flush. the sub is for 2x6 framing. The only sub that is in room is the front. the 2 sides are also in walls that will be "in wall" in the columns.

I know I saw ur webpage name somewhere before!

Nice talking with u today too! i hope u stick around to watch the build. I'm really learning as I go!

Ok off to do some framing!

jim
post #76 of 123
A good friend recently got Triads and they sound phenomenal!

Jeff
post #77 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

A good friend recently got Triads and they sound phenomenal!

Jeff

good to know! i have heard the silver's all around but never heard the gold's up front like i'm doing. i have never heard the in wall subs either just in room. so some of a guess but i think i'll be fine. hopefully!

jim
post #78 of 123
The best theater I've ever heard has a gold Triad set up. Of course he also had some pretty $$$ gear powering it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=36+month
post #79 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The best theater I've ever heard has a gold Triad set up. Of course he also had some pretty $$$ gear powering it.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...light=36+month

Jeff,

Does he have plats or golds up front? I saw on page 2 plats? I'm on my phone so it's hard to pull stuff up. The plats are crazy big! I was looking at their specs the other day.

Triad has me setup with golds up front and silver surrounds. The gold surrounds were overkill they said. The side and rear sun is specs as I wall bronzes' and the front sub right now is a gold I room but that might change. I like triad. Very flexible. I'm going to use their sub amps and for the others not sure yet. I really like the nad masters series 7 channel. Plenty of power.
post #80 of 123
He's got the Platinums ... bought them for a super price from someone in Florida. The guy DROVE them to PA for my friend to audition; he set them up and Craig stroked a check for them on the spot after about three minutes. I think he's using InRoom Golds for surrounds and DSX wides.

Jeff
post #81 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

He's got the Platinums ... bought them for a super price from someone in Florida. The guy DROVE them to PA for my friend to audition; he set them up and Craig stroked a check for them on the spot after about three minutes. I think he's using InRoom Golds for surrounds and DSX wides.

Jeff

That's crazy! I would love to hear the plats someday. The Inroom golds are huge too! Never heard those either just the silver.
post #82 of 123
You're moving along well Jim. Good choice with the Triads. I was originally going to go with Triad for my surround speakers then decided to go the DIY route. However, after pricing things out a bit I think I can get the Triad's for cheaper than DIY so I may go back to them.
post #83 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

You're moving along well Jim. Good choice with the Triads. I was originally going to go with Triad for my surround speakers then decided to go the DIY route. However, after pricing things out a bit I think I can get the Triad's for cheaper than DIY so I may go back to them.

Thanks James. I'm trying! I can't wait to get my speakers. I keep telling myself not to buy anything until totally ready for them!
post #84 of 123
Thread Starter 
Here's a quick update. We worked for about 3 hrs last night.

Slow going cause we bull a lot and are really making sure everything is square/plumb. No rush. I think we are at it again Friday afternoon cause I got a half day and then Sunday cause Saturday I'm taking Kristen to Allentown to shop or maybe King of Prushia.

OK pics cause I know you guys don't post unless there are pics! lol I'm trying here for foot traffic. I really am.


font view of where we r at.


side wall with where door will be.


door RO. I ended up going with a RO for a 6'6", 32" door due to coming in on the riser. I cut off the 2 inches so i have more room for trim/crown and if i end up going the soffit route. Door is set 13" off floor for riser height. Plan is to have 3/4" cherry or mahogany hardwood for the steps landing cause the stairs will be all the same. the riser will be carpet as usual.


where we r at with the other wall.


closeup of around ductwork. remember this is my lower ceiling area. there will be new 2x6 joists on the top plates. i left room to double up on each side of the ductwork of 2x6's. the knee walls are also not in yet till we are ready for decouple clips. i'm spanning plywood under the ductwork. reason for doubling up the 2x6 on each side. we r going to get 5/8" domestic ply cause dave said more of a chance to prevent any kind of movement. finished height after DW will be 7'5". it;s the best i was able to get. it's only a 6'5" span from the front wall so lots of it will be hidden by the false wall.


being careful around the beams/pipes. Lou turned the one stud for a reason. can't remember why it was late. the other stud is 2 piece so we didn't come near the beam and to keep 16" center studs for DW as best as possible. the horizontal 2x4 is for bracing for now till clips go in.


here's what i got left for the room. it's getting smaller. i only brought in what i need for theatre and hall for rack. i wanted to pick everything so we only went for those rooms. the 16 footers are in the garage which is heated. the rest of the basement is just getting dumped off.

thanks for stopping by. hope i'm not boring anyone yet.

jim
post #85 of 123
Old Forge - legendary pizza, and now a to-die-for home theater!
post #86 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

Old Forge - legendary pizza, and now a to-die-for home theater!


lol i was going to call my build the "pizza capitol of the world" build but i figured no one would get it.

17 family run italian restaurants that 90% are at least 80 years or older. great place to grow up!

jim
post #87 of 123
Thread Starter 
so i'm assuming everything looks good since i haven't gotten any responses. i assume if something was blaring wrong then someone would chime in.

jimi
post #88 of 123
You are just starting. Plenty of time left to do something wrong.
post #89 of 123
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepar View Post

You are just starting. Plenty of time left to do something wrong.

Oh and do t worry I will royally mess up somewhere!
post #90 of 123
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone.

I have a quick question. I'm doing the ladders tomorrow night to wrap around the beam in the room. I'm attaching the ladder to channel and clips. I'm putting clips on every joists for strength. The first clips will be 6" from the side walls.

Question. The channel ENDS, how far off the side walls should it be? Can I just leave a 1/4" gap from the wall to channel or should the channel touch the side walls? I assume not.

Also when I do the full ceiling for channel and clip. How far should the channel ENDS be off the walls. I know clips 6-8 inches.

Thanks,
jim
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home