Bstyle's New Sub Build - Page 3

Oh big time! I was just under the impression I wouldn't need all that capability with a sealed system. I don't plan on getting rid of it until all has been measured.

Also it was unanimously decided, by me, to run some clearcoat on the stain. Once dried the wood marbling didn't quite pop like it did before it all dried so tonight has been about applying poly. I'm just ready to have these done and installed already!!!

Looked at the boxes this morning again on the way out the door. Man they are almost done!! Im going to give them a little closer inspection this evening when I get home, but so far so good. The clearcoat got the cabs back to that nice shine they had while the stain was still wet, so they look like the last picture I posted. With the JTR T-12's sitting atop these, the poly will keep from them scratching into the finish as well I used verathane water based floor finish. This stuff dries as hard as diamonds and really works awesome for hardwood floors, so I knew it would be perfect for my use here

Well, the boxes still had a little drying to do so I couldnt get them going last night. As soon as I get home this evening I will be stuffing them and taking em down though! I can't wait to fire these guys up!!

Do you guys think I should use 100% polyfill? I was thinking about just stuffing the cabinet up to the center crossbrace and leaving the rest of the cab clear so the driver has more room to breath. OR I could scratch the polyfill and use R13? what do ya think?

Haha, My bad keager. Ive just gotten myself in trouble rushing other builds and not liking the finished product. patience is a virtue


I have about 15 pounds of polyfill already, so I was going to use that maybe I will just stuff about 6 pounds (two 50 oz. bags) of it in the rear of the cabinet behind the center brace and call it? It should stay away from the cab completely there.

Well last night was terrible. It started out with mounting the subs, only to find out the cutout diameter was definitely off from the specs so I had to route both of the holes out so the drivers would fit. So after some work I was finally able to fit the subs in. got everything looking kosher and wheeled each of them down to the theater and got them all situated in their respective spots. after running audyssey and level matching, adding 5db on the subs, I sat down to have a listen. Now I know these need breaking in, and I know I have to eq them properly to get what I want out of them, but that is quite hard to do when your boxes are leaking like a siv. I found several voids in the wood that were letting air out on the front baffle. Three tubes of PL, two sheets of crappy oak plywood and a week's worth of nights cutting, staining and sealing later, every bit of wind is out of my sails right now. I know im not a good woodworker, but I took all the precautions necessary to make sure that this box was sealed tight, but theres really nothing you can do when there are voids in your wood. What a bunch of SH..ut your mouth. This may be my official retirement post from box building.

that is an excellent suggestion! Thanks!! I actually have a little of experience with fiberglass as I built a sub for my truck using FG back in college. It was the only way to fit a 10w7 under the backseat Im going to try and seal up what I can with another bead of PL inside the enclosure and where i can see the one void on the outside of the box I was thinking of shooting some gorilla glue in there to seal it up as it expands like PL as well. Quite frustrating...

Pic anyways. Final placement.

What do you mean by joint movement?


DEEP is all I can really tell you so far. I didnt get much time to really demo them but it is clearly apparent that I need more power to them than what they are getting right now. Fp14k getting ordered soon. I barely saw the clip lights on the xls5000 and with EQ it ought to be better I would assume but I dont really want to give a full opinion until I get these fully dialed in.

thats exactly what I did, added 1/8 to a 17 inch route. I ended up having to take at least another 1/8 from that, possibly more.

The ply I used was the most expensive they had at lowes is what upsets me here... Ive always used auruco and have never had any issues, but it is even cheaper than this!!! I asked the guy there which was the hardest and he suggested the oak ply. long story short, i have not liked working with it from the getgo, but I pressed on. Now I am regretting it. Should have stuck with the old tried and true auruco. There is nowhere in my area to get baltic birch so it is out of the question.

I checked the manual, yep, 17.375 so that equates to 3/8's guess they may have made a production change.