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Hyrule Home Theater - Page 2

post #31 of 48
I can see a simple sliding panel solution that might appeal to some. Recess the front wall where the screen is, and add some track top and bottom to the recess. Two sliding panels, open framework and covered with acoustically transparent black GOM fabric. A couple of stops to halt the manual panels at 16x9. A couple of activators could automate the panels.


These threads might provide some food for thought:


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=941076


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1236491
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1259917
LL
post #32 of 48
Thread Starter 
Framing all passed inspection. On to electrical and plumbing. Plumbing will definitely be subbed out. Electrical is all me. I'll try and update with pic soon. I know most of the fun won't start until I have a projector and a screen, but it will all be worth it right. Is there a fast forward button?
post #33 of 48
Any updates?
post #34 of 48
Thread Starter 
I have some pics I've been meaning to post. Just changed jobs so free time is limited. I have a few sketchup drawings for the bar area is like opinions on. I'll try an posted updates tonight or Friday.
post #35 of 48
Thread Starter 
The first has a built in cabinet for the liquor bottles and glasses. Figure it would be easier to kid proof but would limit the amount of kegs I could hold.

The second is simpler and has the liquor out in the open, but would let me get a full size freezer or fridge that could become a kegerator.

I have put a pic of my basement layout for reference. Bar would be at the base of the steps.





post #36 of 48
Thread Starter 
I will have pics of the framing and sofits this weekend. We are putting the last finishing touches on this Friday and finalizing any few layout tweaks before the plumber will come for the bathroom and wet bar. Getting quotes on plumber just running the pipes and I do the final hook up when I'm ready or just having the plumber finish the entire bathroom. Drywall, flooring, and fixture hook up. If it is less than a $1000 difference I'm gonna let the plumber have all the fun in there.

Here is a pic of my urinal. I know it is childish, but I think the idea of having a urinal in my house is ultra bad ass.

post #37 of 48
My brother in law has one in his basement bar build, nice touch and also helped out with boy potty training too, at least that's what he told his wife!!
post #38 of 48
Thread Starter 
Here are some pics of the framing. Finished theater will be about 16x12 after the AT screen wall goes up. It is 18x 12 now.

Screen wall


Back wall


Entrance way


Future AV equipment


Down the steps into the basement looking at the future


From the left of the bar


Bathroom


Bathroom entrance


Mechanical room
post #39 of 48
Thread Starter 
Backwall is actually the screen wall and vice versa
post #40 of 48
Thread Starter 
Started the electrical and contracting out the plumbing. Doing a little monoprice shopping for speaker wires, wall plates and the like.
post #41 of 48
Thread Starter 
Here are a few pics of the rough in electric for the theater area. I'll have the rest of the basement pics up after this site is done with the server change.





post #42 of 48
Thread Starter 
Here are the rest of the pics.

Rec Room
IMAG0029.jpg

Rec Room
IMAG0028.jpg


From the Bathroom
IMAG0027.jpg

Bar Area
IMAG0026.jpg
post #43 of 48
Thread Starter 
Electric passed inspection. Hope to finish the plumbing in the next two weeks. Drywall time is getting so close that I can already smell the plaster dust.
post #44 of 48
Thread Starter 
Question about running my 12AWG CL2 Rated 2-Conductor Loud Speaker Cable from monoprice. Should I worry about interference from running them near or next to my 12/2 electrical wires? There are a few places were the wires will have to cross perpendicularly, but should I avoid parallel runs of the speaker wire and 12/2 wire together?
post #45 of 48
Shouldn't be much of an issue because the speaker circuit is low impedance, high current. Any noise picked up will be very small relative to the signal unless yours is an exceptional environment. Won't hurt to follow the normal rules of thumb for signal cables, though. Avoid parallel runs with the AC if you can. Keep the AC and signal cable as far apart as possible. Cross as close to 90 degrees as possible. Avoid running close to noisy devices like motors, fluorescent fixtures, etc.

You know of course that you should never run AC and low voltage cable like speaker cable through the same hole in a stud or plate.
post #46 of 48
Thread Starter 
It is only a 4' run that they would be running parallel. They wouldn't be touching. About a 2" spacing for that 4' run.
post #47 of 48
Thread Starter 
So it is almost time for drywall. I got a few bids and the guy with the best references and a decent price to hang, mud, tape, sand, and basically make paint ready 75 sheets of drywall or about 650 sq foot finished area was $1800. I buy the drywall he does everything else. Said it would take a little under a week. In the St. Louis area, does that sound about right. I got 4 bids and he was the higher middle one. Saw pics of his work and some reviews on service magic and it all looked good. Any thoughts or things I should be aware of before setting up a contract with him? He is gonna do the GG for me on the second coat of drywall in the HT area.
post #48 of 48
just finished a similar amount of square footage in eastern Iowa. granted, the surfaces may have been more challenging, what with a stairwell with no finished stair "skirt" trim, a tray ceiling in the back half, and DD and GG only on the ceiling. Total bill was a little over $3K including materials. Thought I did pretty well considering the quality and speed of work..
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