Fork of HCFR Started - What's needed? - Page 41

Flat panel LCD. But the i1 Display Pro works for projectors too...

Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..

Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..

Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..

Your method of gray scale calibration is set to 10 point, which doesn't use RGB low or high end values.

If you're using a 10 point calibration, you set the IRE from 0 to 100 (going in 10 point intervals) and just the Red, Green and Blue values using an equivalent gray scale pattern.

@ 0 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 0% gray scale pattern.
@ 10 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 10% gray scale pattern.
@ 20 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 20% gray scale pattern,
... and so on.

If you want to use the low end or high end stuff, change the method from a 10 point to a 2 point gray scale.
Edited by sodaboy581 - 1/8/13 at 11:35am

Ahhh i see. Then instead of just adjusting the 80% and 30% like the tutorial says i do it that way. Ill also try settings with the 2 poitand see wich one i get better results.. Thanks so much for the fast reply. And sorry for all those posts, my phone was acting kinda wierd.

10 point is more accurate than a 2 point.

Some people say it's smart to do a 2 point and then do a 10 point to fine tune it further, if your TV takes both into consideration. (Also I typo'd 20% up there. )

Ok so i tried doing the "red" "blue" " green the way you had said and it still didnt catch a diffrence in change of color, it kept reading the same.. Then i set it to a 2 point and tried it that way and it read colors perfectly.. Any suggestions? Or should i just keep it at 2 point??

I had no luck with 10 point on my Moms LG. 2 point dialed in beautifully. This is with a PRO D3 meter, too.


bob

I'd just keep whatever works. Looks like spongebob had the same issue. Could just be an LG thing for those models. Don't know!!

Congrats at solving your problem, though!

Lol.. Thanks for the help, i really do appreciate it.

Thanks spongebob ill keep it that way and ill repost tomorrow with results

I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?

That's what I do anyway... Don't really know if it's needed.

The process for the i1D3/i1Display Pro that I use is:

1. Start up HCFR
2. Do a new calibration and "click through" all the initial dialog.
3. Start a continuous reading and just let it sit there for 10 minutes.
4. Stop the reading.
5. Close the project and start a new project.
6. Configure for DVD manual.
7. Set to a 30% pattern and "Calibrate Meter".
8. Start calibrating after making sure all the other recommendations are set.

Advanced -> Preferences -> General -> Uncheck "Use measured colors (when available)"
Advanced -> Preferences -> References -> Make sure Color Space is HDTV - Rec 709 with the white point set to D65.
Advanced -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Make sure "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" is checked.

Also, you'll want to make sure you're using the proper CCSS file for your display... (Do a search in this thread for i1d3ccss.exe) I only found out about this recently.

Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.

You're supposed to let your meters warm up for at least 10 minutes before using them... Though I've read 30 minutes once before, but most say 10 minutes.

I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.

Really? That works?

I always thought of "warming" something up as a device or something needing to be on. So, for the meter to be "on", it needs to be reading... I leave it on the screen while I am reading, though. So I guess I'm getting the best of both worlds. Ha.

Well, I thought it was about getting the temperature of the meter up to meet the temperature of the surface of the screen. So I never thought it needed to be on or plugged in during that period. Who knows! Maybe an expert will chime in!

I just had a great time calibrating my Asus PA246 monitor in User Mode with ColorHCFR. The CMS controls on this monitor are probably better than the Sharp HDTV I sent back. I dialed just about everything in perfectly, even primary and secondary colors. Most grayscale was under dE 3, but IRE 40-46 were 2.4, 2.2, and 3.0 respectively IRE 10 was 17.5, but I usually never get IRE 10 decent... Wish I could have got EVERYTHING under dE 2, but I did a good job regardless.

Primaries and secondaries were all under dE 1 'cept for Blue and Magenta Blue was dE 4.0, Magenta was dE 1.8

I feel super accomplished tonight, haha.

I am confused by this. I just received my i1D3 today. I have no idea which MCH file to use when calibrating my GT50.

HI,

As a lot of people here, I'm interested in using XRITE Color Munki Display (I1D3) together with HCFR to calibrate my Plasma TV (I've a 50 V T20E which has a very comprehensive Color Management System). And I'm concerned about what I've red regarding spectral correction for Plasma with I1D3.

Before starting calibrating my TV, I've spent a lot of time seeking on the net to find a way to measure correctly on a Plasma with this device and I found two interesting things :

- The open source DispcalGUI software has a user database for correction files and I found one (a matrix) for I1D3 on panny plasmas : http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/colorimetercorrections/
- The SDK provided with OEM version of I1D3 seems to include an original spectral file (EDR) for plasmas : https://www.xrite.com/documents/apps/public/di_oem/i1Display_Pro_Calibration_Management.pdf
I’ll try the first correction matrix on my plasma but, because I’m travelling a lot during this period, it will not be before some weeks. If somebody could make a try and give feedback, that would be fine.

Regarding the second information, I do have the retail version of Color Munki Diplay. If somebody has an OEM version, could he check if he has this EDR files for Plasmas ?

Thanks a lot

HCFR and/or the drivers used by the D3 definitely yield a different result than Calman does on my Panny VT30 plasma. Calman is more stable and the calibration is noticeably better vs. HCFR (I've stored them in 2 separate presets and can A-B back and forth for comparison). It's not night and day different, but fleshtones are definitely more accurate using Calman than they are with HCFR after a greyscale calibration.

Could you check if you have an EDR file for Plasma calibration that comes with your Calman instalation ?

Thanks

just bought a eye 1 pro. Can I get this to work with hcfr?

The i1 Pro spectrometer works flawlessly with either HCFR version 2 or 3.

Larry

yep. I ended up getting Calman 5 and readings are rock solid across the board.

I hate to shell out the money, but I will if we can't find a fix for this.

Yeah, it's a shame that John disappeared, he'd be the one that might have an idea of what's going on. I wonder what happened to him.

You don´t have to use any, but if you like you could try same as I used, since you have also Panasonic plasma.