Fork of HCFR Started - What's needed? - Page 42

I tried 2 different ones, both made my meter think that there was too much red in the picture, and made my results turn out worse than not using any of them. The most noticeable thing was that it made peoples lips look purple.

Ok, then you should not use that matrix.
Is there something wrong with your white balance? If not then just be happy with your results
My´n WB was little redish without correction and that matrix worked for me.
Edited by Make73 - 1/13/13 at 12:27am

I was simply pointing out that the matrices aren't necessarily better than nothing at all.

Matrix made against reference meter is only way to get accurate meter, not by copying those from net which are made for other individually unit.
On this thread is six matrixes, four of them are same kind where it really fix red reading of meter but two ef them are pretty different.
Seems that there´s more variable between units than that earlier linked review let understand.

I agree, the argument was made earlier that there was so little variation between the D3's that someone elses matrix could be useful. I was trying to point out that this doesn't appear to necessarily be the case.

I have found each matrix that has been posted to make the process far more difficult.

Now if only we found fix this 30 IRE issue. I can get a Delta E of < 2 for all but 30 IRE, which is unstable.

Good afternoon, all! !
Please excuse me for bad English.

I want to ask guys understanding.
I have the same situation as at dear Pedro3233
I have tv lg575+spayder3+hcfr
I want to calibrate, but what points I not absolutely understood I can make for the TV.

For example:
- brightness
- contrast
- scale
- as RGB adjustment on 10 points
I correctly understood that more I don't need to regulate that or it is possible to use additional points in my TV as on the picture below
http://www.avsforum.com/content/type/61/id/123702/width/200/height/400/flags/LL

I will be very grateful for the help! !

- brightness => to setting the darkest black

- contrast => to setting the peak white

- scale => the greyscale, like tom huffman says is :

Gray scale tracking"•Gray scale tracking. This is the aspect of color performance that gets the most attention. It concerns the display's ability to provide a neutral shade of white, all the way from darkest black to the brightest white. If the display can't do this, then it will all of the colors will look very unnatural.

- as RGB adjustment on 10 points : is to fine tune the greyscale from the darkest black (0 % stimulus ) to the brightness white (100 % stimulus)

and some interesting info :

- Display Calibration - Part I http://www.missingremote.com/guide/display-calibration-part-i
- Curtpalme http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
- Basic Guide to Color Calibration using a CMS (updated and enhanced) http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536
- spears and munsil : http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/
- Choosing a Color Space | Spears & Munsil http://www.spearsandmunsil.com/articles/choosingacolorspace.html
- The Secrets Blu-ray Player HDMI Benchmark
Part 1 http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles/1296-blu-ray-player-hdmi-benchmark-introduction.html?showall=1
Part 2 http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles/1366-hdmi-follow-up.html?showall=1

has anyone had luck with the "meter correction file" with 3.0.4.0? In this thread it was suggested to take a matrix file that was created and change the extension from .mhc to .thc, and place it in the Etalon_Argyll directory. I have done that, and the file appears when selecting the meter. An error then pops up, "an unnamed file contains an incorrect schema."

I've been trying to profile my D3 to my i1Pro, using HCFR 2 to get the readings from the i1Pro, then importing that into HCFR 3.0.4.0, compute the matrix and save it. I can use it this way, but would like to use the meter correction file so the free measures I enter manually for the secondary gamut remain unchanged . (dong this will put the secondary points in the CIE chart)

Here's another way to accomplish the same thing. Create a new HCFR file, go to the primaries/secondaries measurements, click the "editable data" checkbox and type in your values. Save this as something like "75% saturation reference". Set this document as the reference measure. Right-click in the CIE chart in your active calibration file and choose "display reference measure". I have saved .chc files for 25,50 and 75% saturation levels. You can't see them all simultaneously, but it's a means to the end.

Unless I'm doing something incorrect, In 3.0.4.0 and 3.0.0.0, the triangles show for the references, but not the secondary points for Y C and M.

I have installed HCFR 3.0.4.0 but am unable to get it to recognize my Xrite i1pro colorimeter. The Xrite Profiler software finds it but HCFR doesn't. I'm confused by the drivers in the HCFR installation folder - am I supposed to use one of those drivers instead of the current Windows driver? I running Win7 64bit.

the i1Pro does not work in version 3.0.4.0. It does in version 3.0.0.0 and 2.2.

Thanks for the quick response. I am actually interested in using spotread which I think only comes with 3.0.4.0. Can I use spotread with 3.0.0.0?

You're not doing anything wrong - the triangle is all you get when displaying the reference measure on the CIE chart.

If you mean free measures, this is in all versions.

Dear guys! !

I ask to respond to a call for help to a beginner!

- according to a manual I exposed LED illumination - 35 ftl
- brightness/contrast by means of the disk AVS HD 709 approximately (windows are curtained densely off, lamps are switched off)

The picture in times better than all taken settings of the TV is visual. But gamma and brightness on schedules to put it mildly very much upset me.

I ask you to prompt to me, to you I will be very grateful!
Thanks! !

http://s018.radikal.ru/i522/1301/de/264217be49b0.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i413/1301/c1/bd60842087a7.jpg
http://s60.radikal.ru/i168/1301/4e/e057dae91047.jpg

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Les garçons chers!!

Je demande de répondre au cri sur l'aide au débutant!

- Est d'accord par la documentation a exposé la surbrillance LED - 35 ftl
- L'éclat/contraste à l'aide du disque AVS HD 709 à vue de nez (les fenêtres est dense зашторены, les lampes sont coupées)

Est visuelle l'image à des fois mieux que tous les réglages pris de la télé. Mais gamma et l'éclat sur les graphiques pour ne pas dire plus me contrarient beaucoup.

Vous demande de me souffler, je vous serai très reconnaissant!
Merci!!

http://s018.radikal.ru/i522/1301/de/264217be49b0.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i413/1301/c1/bd60842087a7.jpg
http://s60.radikal.ru/i168/1301/4e/e057dae91047.jpg

Matrix correction for three years old Eye One Display LT/2 if someone is interested to try it out.
Measured with Panasonic ST50 plasma.
Matrix for i1 Display LT measured against matrix corrected i1 Display Pro.zip 0k .zip file

It doesn't work that way. Copying matrices is like copying calibration settings.

Your matrix (3 year old i1 LT against i1 Pro):

Measured with Samsung 64D700 and Panasonic 50X1 plasmas. My matrix (almost 6 year old i1 LT against i1 Pro rev. D):

Larry
Edited by LarryInRI - 1/17/13 at 3:24pm

And still many copies D-Nice settings
Yes I know it won´t work but idea was that maby someone wanna try that and can get closer to right readings with that correction than without it, maby I´m totally wrong...but hey, it´s free
I sold Display LT and made matrix correction because of that.
btw, also for that matrix I used earlier mentioned matrix for i1 Display Pro which worked me just great, white balance was too redish without it.

Hi All,

I would like to ask your kind help to setup the spyder4 express probe.
When I try to start a new measure with spyder4 I get an error message: "Incorrect driver - Starting communications with the meter failed with severe error. Argyll error."
I installed 4.5.2 Datacolor software for the probe.
Someone can help me how should the spyder4 be installed for hcfr?

Thank you in advance.

baradlaye,

it's described in the first post of this thread - follow the links to the sourceforge.net hcfr area. Here's a direct link to the information on how to install the argyll driver for the Spyder 4 probe:

http://sourceforge.net/p/hcfr/wiki/Spyder%204/

If I remember correctly, there are two steps to do, first install the driver and then convert the individual lookup table (which is the probe calibration information, I guess). It works, I've tried it. But you may want to start the converter utility like this "spyd4en -verbose", because it will otherwise just exit silently without saying if it succeeded.

Good luck,
Erdinger34

If one was to purchase a Colormunki/ID3 brand new out of the box do you just use it as is after you connect to the argyll drivers or must you have to enter a matrix?

The reason I ask as there are many conflicting and confusing post in this thread about having to use a matrix.

Zoyd,kgarrison and many others have matrixes and its all confusing.

Is there a end all be all matrix file that works for a brand new ID3/CMUNKi using hcfr 3.0.4 to calibrate a Panasonic Plasma.

Its almost discouraging reading some of these posts...Thanks for any clarification.

No.
If you want accurate meter you have to pay for calibrating it against reference meter.
Just use it without matrix and hope you´re satisfied to picture.

I saw that white balance was little redish without matrix (like many other i1D3 owners) and copied matrix from argyll database, got good results with that.
However I can´t be sure how much it measures off, but it´s definitely better than without it.

http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/Calibration/MonitorCalibrationHardware.html
That review tells that it´s quite accurate without any correction and variable between different units should be small.

Personally, I don't think profiling the i1D3 against another meter should be necessary. It's a very accurate meter by itself, as proven by the links posted above.

The reason that calibrations appear too red without profiling the i1D3 (or without adding an adjustment matrix) is because HCFR and/or the Argyll drivers are doing something incorrectly. I say this with confidence, as I've compared a simple greyscale calibration side-by-side with HCFR and Calman using 2 different color temp presets in the service menu of my Panasonic (picture mode and everything else was equal) and the Calman calibration was visibly better. Skin tones were less red and looked more realistic with the Calman calibration as I flipped back and forth. Not night and day better, but definitely noticeable by eye.

It's not profiling that we need - it's different software.

My $.02

I can vouch for this as well.

I had been doing my calibrations with my i1Display Pro using ColorHCFR. I set up everything correctly, even the little advanced check boxes and so on, but I'd still detect the calibration was a little more red than I thought it should be.

I went ahead and purchased CalMAN Basic and started doing calibrations with it. I did both my Asus PA246Q monitor and Sony KDL60EX645. The red push I was getting with ColorHCFR was gone.

So, I agree that there is definitely something up with ColorHCFR and the i1Display Pro's calibration.

I noted this in another thread here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1444311/official-sony-kdl60ex645-thread/60#post_22852255

Hey jkozlow,i have been reading alot of your post here and on HDJ in regards to i'am trying to calibrate the wb in THX/day mode and cinema/night on my GT30 like you did on your VT30.

Do you still swear by using Lg apl patterns for this process,or have you gone a different route?

Ps. How many notches in your warm temp in the sm have you happen to move your Red drive? Mine keeps asking for around -12/13...just curious.

Thanks for all your input and studies...

Hi Peter,

For the GT30/VT30, the first thing I would recommend is setting your brightness, color and tint correctly in the THX and Cinema menus by using a calibration disc and a blue filter. Then calibrate greyscale using the service menu and you can point THX and/or Cinema modes to the calibrated color temp. After numerous calibrations, I still believe that using large APL windows for greyscale yields the best skin tones on the VT30. I originally calibrated all 3 color temps in the service menu (cool, normal, warm) using small APL, large APL and standard windows on the AVSHD calibration disc and then cycled through warm 2 (the equivalent of warm in the SM), normal and cool 2 (the equivalent of cool in the SM) while viewing various content. The calibration with large APL gave me the best skin tones on my VT30 without having to desaturate the "color" control from the value I originally set it at using the blue filter method (which is currently set to a value of "50" btw). All the other calibrations were too red and required me to lower color by as many as 3-6 points to remove redness from skin tones. This is not ideal, as it not only removes redness, but it desaturates ALL colors!

As for my current calibrated value for red drive, it is set at e9 using Calman and large APL windows. Before my A board was replaced to fix the VT30s fluctuating brightness, the red drive was set at f5. You'll have to count to see what the difference is, as it cycles through a few letters as well - not just numbers. Note that I have never changed any of the cuts - they are all at their default value of "80" and I have never felt the need to change them. I still have delta E values of around 4-6 even down around 20 and 30 IRE just by changing the drives if I recall correctly and this is "good enough" for me.

Hope this helps!