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HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software - Page 41

post #1201 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post

Thanks for the reply.
Are you profiling a flat panel display or a projector by chance?

Flat panel LCD. But the i1 Display Pro works for projectors too...
post #1202 of 3446
Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


post #1203 of 3446
Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


post #1204 of 3446
Help please!!! I bought an lg 42lm3400 and im trying to calibrate using hcfr and a spyder3 sensor. Well the tv has isf expert modes and im trying to figure out wich options of the red, blue and green are the ones im supposed to use as rgblow end and rgbhigh end. Ive moved the colors around but it seems as sensor doesnt pick up the change in color.
My tv also has yellow, magenta, and cyan settings..


post #1205 of 3446
Your method of gray scale calibration is set to 10 point, which doesn't use RGB low or high end values.

If you're using a 10 point calibration, you set the IRE from 0 to 100 (going in 10 point intervals) and just the Red, Green and Blue values using an equivalent gray scale pattern.

@ 0 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 0% gray scale pattern.
@ 10 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 10% gray scale pattern.
@ 20 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 20% gray scale pattern,
... and so on.

If you want to use the low end or high end stuff, change the method from a 10 point to a 2 point gray scale.
Edited by sodaboy581 - 1/8/13 at 11:35am
post #1206 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

Your method of gray scale calibration is set to 10 point, which doesn't use RGB low or high end values.
If you're using a 10 point calibration, you set the IRE from 0 to 100 (going in 10 point intervals) and just the Red, Green and Blue values using an equivalent gray scale pattern.
@ 0 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 0% gray scale pattern.
@ 10 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 10% gray scale pattern.
@ 20 IRE, adjust "Red", "Green" and "Blue" using the 2% gray scale pattern,
... and so on.
If you want to use the low end or high end stuff, change the method from a 10 point to a 2 point gray scale.

Ahhh i see. Then instead of just adjusting the 80% and 30% like the tutorial says i do it that way. Ill also try settings with the 2 poitand see wich one i get better results.. Thanks so much for the fast reply. And sorry for all those posts, my phone was acting kinda wierd.
post #1207 of 3446
10 point is more accurate than a 2 point.

Some people say it's smart to do a 2 point and then do a 10 point to fine tune it further, if your TV takes both into consideration. (Also I typo'd 20% up there. biggrin.gif)
post #1208 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

10 point is more accurate than a 2 point.
Some people say it's smart to do a 2 point and then do a 10 point to fine tune it further, if your TV takes both into consideration. (Also I typo'd 20% up there. biggrin.gif)

Ok so i tried doing the "red" "blue" " green the way you had said and it still didnt catch a diffrence in change of color, it kept reading the same.. Then i set it to a 2 point and tried it that way and it read colors perfectly.. Any suggestions? Or should i just keep it at 2 point??
post #1209 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro3233 View Post

Ok so i tried doing the "red" "blue" " green the way you had said and it still didnt catch a diffrence in change of color, it kept reading the same.. Then i set it to a 2 point and tried it that way and it read colors perfectly.. Any suggestions? Or should i just keep it at 2 point??

I had no luck with 10 point on my Moms LG. 2 point dialed in beautifully. This is with a PRO D3 meter, too.


bob
post #1210 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by pedro3233 View Post

Or should i just keep it at 2 point??
I'd just keep whatever works. smile.gif Looks like spongebob had the same issue. Could just be an LG thing for those models. Don't know!!

Congrats at solving your problem, though!
post #1211 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

I'd just keep whatever works. smile.gif Looks like spongebob had the same issue. Could just be an LG thing for those models. Don't know!!
Congrats at solving your problem, though!

Lol.. Thanks for the help, i really do appreciate it.
post #1212 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

I had no luck with 10 point on my Moms LG. 2 point dialed in beautifully. This is with a PRO D3 meter, too.
bob
Thanks spongebob ill keep it that way and ill repost tomorrow with results
post #1213 of 3446
I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?
post #1214 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?

That's what I do anyway... Don't really know if it's needed.

The process for the i1D3/i1Display Pro that I use is:

1. Start up HCFR
2. Do a new calibration and "click through" all the initial dialog.
3. Start a continuous reading and just let it sit there for 10 minutes.
4. Stop the reading.
5. Close the project and start a new project.
6. Configure for DVD manual.
7. Set to a 30% pattern and "Calibrate Meter".
8. Start calibrating after making sure all the other recommendations are set.

Advanced -> Preferences -> General -> Uncheck "Use measured colors (when available)"
Advanced -> Preferences -> References -> Make sure Color Space is HDTV - Rec 709 with the white point set to D65.
Advanced -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Make sure "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" is checked.

Also, you'll want to make sure you're using the proper CCSS file for your display... (Do a search in this thread for i1d3ccss.exe) I only found out about this recently.
post #1215 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I ordered the i1D3 and it will be here tomorrow. I just have a quick question. Within HCFR, you calibrate the meter using a 30 IRE window...correct?

That's what I do anyway... Don't really know if it's needed.

The process for the i1D3/i1Display Pro that I use is:

1. Start up HCFR
2. Do a new calibration and "click through" all the initial dialog.
3. Start a continuous reading and just let it sit there for 10 minutes.
4. Stop the reading.
5. Close the project and start a new project.
6. Configure for DVD manual.
7. Set to a 30% pattern and "Calibrate Meter".
8. Start calibrating after making sure all the other recommendations are set.

Advanced -> Preferences -> General -> Uncheck "Use measured colors (when available)"
Advanced -> Preferences -> References -> Make sure Color Space is HDTV - Rec 709 with the white point set to D65.
Advanced -> Preferences -> Advanced -> Make sure "Do not use luminance in delta E formula" is checked.

Also, you'll want to make sure you're using the proper CCSS file for your display... (Do a search in this thread for i1d3ccss.exe) I only found out about this recently.

Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
post #1216 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
You're supposed to let your meters warm up for at least 10 minutes before using them... Though I've read 30 minutes once before, but most say 10 minutes.
post #1217 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

Thank you. What is the reason for doing the first continuous read, closing the program, and then starting it again? I've been (with a different meter) just starting with a new project and beginning the process from there.
You're supposed to let your meters warm up for at least 10 minutes before using them... Though I've read 30 minutes once before, but most say 10 minutes.

I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
post #1218 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
Really? That works?

I always thought of "warming" something up as a device or something needing to be on. So, for the meter to be "on", it needs to be reading... I leave it on the screen while I am reading, though. So I guess I'm getting the best of both worlds. Ha.
post #1219 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I had just be letting my old meter warm up on the screen unplugged for 30 minutes. I'll try it plugged in and running though. Thanks.
Really? That works?

I always thought of "warming" something up as a device or something needing to be on. So, for the meter to be "on", it needs to be reading... I leave it on the screen while I am reading, though. So I guess I'm getting the best of both worlds. Ha.

Well, I thought it was about getting the temperature of the meter up to meet the temperature of the surface of the screen. So I never thought it needed to be on or plugged in during that period. Who knows! Maybe an expert will chime in! smile.gif
post #1220 of 3446
I just had a great time calibrating my Asus PA246 monitor in User Mode with ColorHCFR. The CMS controls on this monitor are probably better than the Sharp HDTV I sent back. I dialed just about everything in perfectly, even primary and secondary colors. Most grayscale was under dE 3, but IRE 40-46 were 2.4, 2.2, and 3.0 respectively frown.gif IRE 10 was 17.5, but I usually never get IRE 10 decent... Wish I could have got EVERYTHING under dE 2, but I did a good job regardless.

Primaries and secondaries were all under dE 1 'cept for Blue and Magenta Blue was dE 4.0, Magenta was dE 1.8

I feel super accomplished tonight, haha.
post #1221 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Make73 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by spongebob View Post

How do you run this properly?
tried double clicking but can't figure out the command prompt thing
bob

You don´t need to do that because you have matrix correction (correction for plasma display type is included in that matrix...thx zoyd wink.gif ).
Just choose "Display Type : i1D3 Refresh display"
Leave "Spectral sample" empty/none
Load your matrix "Advanced-->XYZ coordinates adjustment matrix-->manually edit XYZ conversion matrix-->Load" and ready to go.
(Sync i1D3 with your TV at IRE30 window by pressing calibrate from sensor configure.)

However if you have not ever used command prompt it´s like this:
cd..
cd..
cd program files (x86)
cd hcfr calibration
cd tools
i1d3ccss

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

ccmx is the same as matrix, look in the file and you will see the numbers to plug into hcfr

Oh, thanks redface.gif
There is two different matrixes for i1D3 created with Panasonic plasma against i1Pro meter.
Gonna try those.


Here are all those six matrix correction .mhc files for i1 Display Pro(3) with plasma TV which I found:
Matrix for i1DPro(3) or CM Display with plasma.zip 2k .zip file

Made calibration with "Panasonic plasma 1 matrix for i1D3 against i1Pro from Argyll database.mhc" matrix and finally I´m happy to results smile.gif
Panasonic TX-P55ST50Y calibration.zip 28k .zip file

Some more calibrations when I´ll get new panel under warranty because of burn-in.
Interesting to see how new panel affects to settings.
However that goes till February because Panasonic couldn´t deliver that quicker to Finland and I´ll do some running in before calibration.

I am confused by this. I just received my i1D3 today. I have no idea which MCH file to use when calibrating my GT50.
post #1222 of 3446
HI,

As a lot of people here, I'm interested in using XRITE Color Munki Display (I1D3) together with HCFR to calibrate my Plasma TV (I've a 50 V T20E which has a very comprehensive Color Management System). And I'm concerned about what I've red regarding spectral correction for Plasma with I1D3.

Before starting calibrating my TV, I've spent a lot of time seeking on the net to find a way to measure correctly on a Plasma with this device and I found two interesting things :

- The open source DispcalGUI software has a user database for correction files and I found one (a matrix) for I1D3 on panny plasmas : http://dispcalgui.hoech.net/colorimetercorrections/
- The SDK provided with OEM version of I1D3 seems to include an original spectral file (EDR) for plasmas : https://www.xrite.com/documents/apps/public/di_oem/i1Display_Pro_Calibration_Management.pdf
I’ll try the first correction matrix on my plasma but, because I’m travelling a lot during this period, it will not be before some weeks. If somebody could make a try and give feedback, that would be fine.

Regarding the second information, I do have the retail version of Color Munki Diplay. If somebody has an OEM version, could he check if he has this EDR files for Plasmas ?

Thanks a lot
post #1223 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobhc2010 View Post

Ah, fair enough. With this current problem I might as well still be using my Spyder 4 lol.

Edit: Plugged my Spyder4 back in for the hell of it, and saw similar results with blue moving up and down, albeit at snails pace. Makes me wonder if that's just down to being a cheap meter, or if there's something up with HCFR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ttnuagmada View Post

Well, I can tell you that my i1D2 has no problems at all with the newest HCFR on my ST30. If I had to guess, i'd say that the Argyll drivers don't quite have all of the bugs worked out as far as plasma's go on some of these newer meters.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

Calman is very stable with the same set-up.

HCFR and/or the drivers used by the D3 definitely yield a different result than Calman does on my Panny VT30 plasma. Calman is more stable and the calibration is noticeably better vs. HCFR (I've stored them in 2 separate presets and can A-B back and forth for comparison). It's not night and day different, but fleshtones are definitely more accurate using Calman than they are with HCFR after a greyscale calibration.
post #1224 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post



HCFR and/or the drivers used by the D3 definitely yield a different result than Calman does on my Panny VT30 plasma. Calman is more stable and the calibration is noticeably better vs. HCFR (I've stored them in 2 separate presets and can A-B back and forth for comparison). It's not night and day different, but fleshtones are definitely more accurate using Calman than they are with HCFR after a greyscale calibration.

Could you check if you have an EDR file for Plasma calibration that comes with your Calman instalation ?

Thanks
post #1225 of 3446
just bought a eye 1 pro. Can I get this to work with hcfr?
post #1226 of 3446
The i1 Pro spectrometer works flawlessly with either HCFR version 2 or 3.

Larry
post #1227 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post



HCFR and/or the drivers used by the D3 definitely yield a different result than Calman does on my Panny VT30 plasma. Calman is more stable and the calibration is noticeably better vs. HCFR (I've stored them in 2 separate presets and can A-B back and forth for comparison). It's not night and day different, but fleshtones are definitely more accurate using Calman than they are with HCFR after a greyscale calibration.

yep. I ended up getting Calman 5 and readings are rock solid across the board.
post #1228 of 3446
I hate to shell out the money, but I will if we can't find a fix for this.
post #1229 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I hate to shell out the money, but I will if we can't find a fix for this.

Yeah, it's a shame that John disappeared, he'd be the one that might have an idea of what's going on. I wonder what happened to him.
post #1230 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by HD-Master View Post

I am confused by this. I just received my i1D3 today. I have no idea which MCH file to use when calibrating my GT50.

You don´t have to use any, but if you like you could try same as I used, since you have also Panasonic plasma.
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