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HCFR - Open source projector and display calibration software - Page 62

post #1831 of 3446
That is what I figured too. My 10% is 100,100, 99%, so I wasn't too worried. Just thought I'd ask.
And no, I do not see any tint of colors at that level with my current calibration. It is pretty big when I make a change at 10%, the colors are very obvious at 10% gray when one is pushing.
post #1832 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterLewis View Post


I agree with gwgill,having owned the colormunki display for a few weeks now it is a great value and offers the same accuracy as the i1D3.

HCFR + Colormunki Display = Winning

Just got a ColorMunki Display on the way but do not see an option for this under the sensor select.
Do you use the eye one selection ?
Any X-rite drivers/dll's that I need to copy to HCFR directory.
I was using a DTP-94 that crapped out last week (right in the middle of calibrating my new panny plasma 2013 ST60 series) so I just need to get up and running.

Thanks
Todd
post #1833 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd95008 View Post

Just got a ColorMunki Display on the way but do not see an option for this under the sensor select.
Do you use the eye one selection ?
Any X-rite drivers/dll's that I need to copy to HCFR directory.
I was using a DTP-94 that crapped out last week (right in the middle of calibrating my new panny plasma 2013 ST60 series) so I just need to get up and running.

Thanks
Todd

It will only show up on the meter list once you recieve it and physically connect it .

Make sure you down load the xrite colormunki software,all you want to do is copy the dll file and paste it to the HCFR file folder in program files on your computer.Once you paste it over you can uninstall the xrite software.

Now once thats taken care of, connect your colormunki and it will show up as ID3/Colormunki in the drop down list.Click next and then chose your spectral sample for the type of display your going to calibrate.
post #1834 of 3446
Sounds good !!
Thanks for the info.

I got my Colormunki from Amazon who is having an unadvertised X-rite promotion.
With Ca sales tax the total was $157....

BTW, Before the DTP-94 died, it was consistently measuring .01 Cd/m^2 (.0029 fL) black level.
I think this is the limit of that meter and may be possibly even better ?
So with a 100% white level of 121 Cd/m^2 (35.3fL), I have a real contrast ratio of over 12,000...
The new Panasonic ST60 series will be awesome once I get it dialed in.

Can't wait to get my Munki.

Thanks again
Todd
post #1835 of 3446
I have just brought a Colormunki to Calibrate my Samsung D8000 Plasma and it performed great. I am a complete novice and this is the first time I have ever attempted a Cal but with HCFR and the Munki it was brilliant.

I could not believe how bad the D8000 was out of the box but now calibrated it looks great, a night and day difference! smile.gif
post #1836 of 3446
Got my Munki up and working.
In HCFR and sensor setup, there is a calibrate button.
With my old DTP-94 this would calibrate the sensor into an all black surface (black cal).
With the Munki this does not seem to do anything ??

anyone have info on this ??

Thanks
Todd
post #1837 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by todd95008 View Post

Got my Munki up and working.
In HCFR and sensor setup, there is a calibrate button.
With my old DTP-94 this would calibrate the sensor into an all black surface (black cal).
With the Munki this does not seem to do anything ??

anyone have info on this ??

Thanks
Todd

Depends what munki you are talking about... The colormunki photo/design (spectro) you move the dial into an intermediate setting and since the sensor is now covered by the black outer case, it will use that as the dark reading.

If you meant the colormunki display (based on the display3), then from my understanding it doesn't need a black reading aka meter calibration.
post #1838 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairchild99 View Post

If you meant the colormunki display (based on the display3), then from my understanding it doesn't need a black reading aka meter calibration.

ColorMunki display is what I have so I guess I will just ignore that calibration button....
post #1839 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by buttonsw View Post

I have just brought a Colormunki to Calibrate my Samsung D8000 Plasma and it performed great. I am a complete novice and this is the first time I have ever attempted a Cal but with HCFR and the Munki it was brilliant.

I could not believe how bad the D8000 was out of the box but now calibrated it looks great, a night and day difference! smile.gif
Awesome what colormunki did you get?
I'm looking to calibrate my ES8000
post #1840 of 3446
I got a Colormunki Display and it's superb, very fast at reading. I'll post some before and after charts up in the week.

Have fun with it! biggrin.gif
post #1841 of 3446
I got a munki display also, very happy with it and it works fast:) Althoughi have 30 hours into this pos PJ.. autoiris is the devil on this.. going from 50% to 40% grayscale makes red drop 20%.. and everything moves like that up and down the scale as the iris opens and closes.. anyone know if this is normal on auto iris pjs?
post #1842 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rpml View Post

I got a munki display also, very happy with it and it works fast:) Althoughi have 30 hours into this pos PJ.. autoiris is the devil on this.. going from 50% to 40% grayscale makes red drop 20%.. and everything moves like that up and down the scale as the iris opens and closes.. anyone know if this is normal on auto iris pjs?


try calibrating with the auto-iris off to see if there is any benefit to it. view some reference material with it on and off after calibration, you may be surprised to find you may not need it.

post #1843 of 3446
Just been having a hour or so with HCFR on our (1080p) Samsung portable as practise with my new meter the i1 Display Pro.

Obviously the controls are quite limited on the Samsung LE19B541, I can adjust colour but only at one point so following the Dummies Guide to Calibration I get a bit stuck as that assumes you have more.

What would be the best pattern and settings to aim for with such a limited device?
post #1844 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post

I can adjust colour but only at one point so following the Dummies Guide to Calibration I get a bit stuck as that assumes you have more.

What would be the best pattern and settings to aim for with such a limited device?

I would set red close as possible and others are what they are, you can´t do anything about it without properly CMS.
post #1845 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Make73 View Post

I would set red close as possible and others are what they are, you can´t do anything about it without properly CMS.

I can adjust the colours individually but not at different levels (RGBLowEnd / RGBHighEnd etc), is it best just to do it using the 50% amplitude pattern?
post #1846 of 3446
Your Tv only has a greyscale set of controls (called 2 point system) , which you should use as shown in the DummiesGuide (with IRE 0-100%). This will make a big difference.

It is not unusual for TVs to have limited Colour Management System, and the advice given in this thread, and in Dummies Guide is:-

"Cue up your AVS HD 709 test disc and skip to the 100% white window pattern by selecting "10% Grayscale" -> "100% Gray window". 100% means that the window is at 100 IRE. Write down the Y (Luminance or brightness) reading as seen by the sensor:
Skip to the 100% Red window pattern by selecting "100% Saturated Colors" -> "100% Red window".
Adjust the colour control on your display until the Y reading is 21% of the 100% white window reading measured earlier. For example, if the Y value earlier was 39.012 as seen above, then 21% would be 39.012 x 0.21 = 8.193.
That's it! This will set the red colour level properly. Hopefully the Green and Blue levels will follow suite. "

Ie, just use your colour setting. The guide goes onto mention Cyan for secondaries, using the Tint control, but this is not always beneficial.
post #1847 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by wl1 View Post

Your Tv only has a greyscale set of controls (called 2 point system) , which you should use as shown in the DummiesGuide (with IRE 0-100%). This will make a big difference.

It is not unusual for TVs to have limited Colour Management System, and the advice given in this thread, and in Dummies Guide is:-

"Cue up your AVS HD 709 test disc and skip to the 100% white window pattern by selecting "10% Grayscale" -> "100% Gray window". 100% means that the window is at 100 IRE. Write down the Y (Luminance or brightness) reading as seen by the sensor:
Skip to the 100% Red window pattern by selecting "100% Saturated Colors" -> "100% Red window".
Adjust the colour control on your display until the Y reading is 21% of the 100% white window reading measured earlier. For example, if the Y value earlier was 39.012 as seen above, then 21% would be 39.012 x 0.21 = 8.193.
That's it! This will set the red colour level properly. Hopefully the Green and Blue levels will follow suite. "

Ie, just use your colour setting. The guide goes onto mention Cyan for secondaries, using the Tint control, but this is not always beneficial.

Many thanks wl1 & Make73

I have been searching more and might have discovered I was a bit wrong in what I said.

I have in the advanced settings menu adjustments for R-Offset, G-Offset, B-Offset and R-Gain, G-Gain B-Gain

Would I be right in thinking the *-Gain controls can be used for the 80% IRE and the *-Offset controls for the 30% IRE or have I misunderstood what I have read?
post #1848 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post

I have in the advanced settings menu adjustments for R-Offset, G-Offset, B-Offset and R-Gain, G-Gain B-Gain

Would I be right in thinking the *-Gain controls can be used for the 80% IRE and the *-Offset controls for the 30% IRE or have I misunderstood what I have read?

 

The Dummies Guide says you start with 80% IRE, using the RGB Gain to get it set.  Then set 30% IRE using RGB Offset -  (assuming RGB Gain = RGB High End, RGBOffset = RGB Low End) 

 

You don't adjust Green in either one usually.

 

Once you have been two and fro with these a couple of times, you go through the full greyscale testing, 0-100% IRE, and make minor tweaks if required.  See Post #1 for other guides on where to best make compromises.

 

When you talked about colour, I don't think you were talking about a Colour Management System - but rather the greyscale stuff above.  Have fun, its a long, time consuming, very rewarding journey.  :-)

post #1849 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post

Many thanks wl1 & Make73

I have been searching more and might have discovered I was a bit wrong in what I said.

I have in the advanced settings menu adjustments for R-Offset, G-Offset, B-Offset and R-Gain, G-Gain B-Gain

Would I be right in thinking the *-Gain controls can be used for the 80% IRE and the *-Offset controls for the 30% IRE or have I misunderstood what I have read?

CMS guide starts here, what you´re talking about is whitebalance and target is set all main colors to match equally when there´s just scale from black to white without any tones to colors, grayscale wink.gif
post #1850 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Make73 View Post

CMS guide starts here, what you´re talking about is whitebalance and target is set all main colors to match equally when there´s just scale from black to white without any tones to colors, grayscale wink.gif

Thanks Make73, your post here was very useful by the way. Is that still the current / best method to most accurately setup the i1DPro Retail Meter or have things changed in the 30 or so pages I still have to read of this fantastic thread?

As you know I have been practising on a 19" Samsung LCD, what Matrix would be best to use for this?

I also have a THX Calibrated Panasonic 55VT50 that I was going to point the meter at when more confident and fiddle with the modes that were not done, which Matrix would be best for this one?
post #1851 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post

Panasonic 55VT50 that I was going to point the meter at when more confident and fiddle with the modes that were not done, which Matrix would be best for this one?

You can try those matrixes but those don´t make your meter to reference meter.
Only way is pay for calibrating i1 Display Pro against reference meter (you will get your own matrix just for your meter).

However those .mhc matrixes don´t work with newer versions of HCFR, you need .thc matrix.
Here is the one I used for my ex-Panasonic ST50
Panasonic plasma 1 matrix for i1D3 against i1Pro thc.zip 0k .zip file
post #1852 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post

or have things changed in the 30 or so pages I still have to read of this fantastic thread?

I also have a THX Calibrated Panasonic 55VT50 that I was going to point the meter at when more confident and fiddle with the modes that were not done, which Matrix would be best for this one?

See post #1 for a summary of the thread, for the bits that appeal to you.

HCFR is a great tool for DIY Calibrators to get started, and coupled with the proven, accurate i1D3, will be more than enough to get a massive improvement in your display calibration.

The advanced use of profiling against other reference meters may produce technically more accurate results, but the goal for most DIY Calibrators is to get the display within an acceptable tolerance to the standard (our eyes cannot distinguish the differences less than 3DE, so I suggest that).

If you have professional budgets and pro equipment, then there are Pro software too.

I would recommend you learn about the controls available in your TV, and there are many, and get started by selecting the Plasma option within HCFR.

By all means, look to go back and try alternative matrices, but I would start with Plasma selection. This is a very time consuming hobby, so delve straight into your VT calibration.
Edited by wl1 - 5/7/13 at 11:56pm
post #1853 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by Make73 View Post

You can try those matrixes but those don´t make your meter to reference meter.
Only way is pay for calibrating i1 Display Pro against reference meter (you will get your own matrix just for your meter).

However those .mhc matrixes don´t work with newer versions of HCFR, you need .thc matrix.
Here is the one I used for my ex-Panasonic ST50
Panasonic plasma 1 matrix for i1D3 against i1Pro thc.zip 0k .zip file

Thanks, I will try it.

Is it only X-Rite that can carry out the calibration process for individual meters?

The general consensus earlier in the thread seemed to be that these meters were better using a Matrix than not using one (Obviously not reference as you say), does that still hold the same?

Now to find the post that talks about the switch to *.thc from *.mhc...

EDIT: Thanks wl1, you posted as I was.
Edited by D-an-W - 5/7/13 at 10:51pm
post #1854 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by D-an-W View Post


Is it only X-Rite that can carry out the calibration process for individual meters?

 

Your meter was calibrated by xrite in the factory, to a high standard.  I can't find the email I got back from xrite, to quote them, but they said further calibration is not required.  There is a link within this thread showing a study of very low "unit to unit" variance on the i1D3.

 

Profiling against an i1Pro or better - is prone to its own errors.  If you look into Repeatability and Reproducibility then you may conclude there are for more variables in play than just the meter precision/accuracy.  There is your TV, your environment and YOU!  The laptop, software rounding errors - if you don't believe me - re-run a calibnration 24 hrs after, trying to keep everything the same.  Then learn to live within those tolerances, else you will go mad.

post #1855 of 3446
Hello Zoyd.

I do not speak / read English well and therefore I find it hard to read the entire thread ...

I would like to know if the correction matrix can be considered valid also for the probe i1D2.
Considering that I always calibrated with this probe using the old version of ColorHCFR without using any matrix.

I ask this because I would go to your software version as I would use REC 709 (75%) and CC6.

thank you very much
post #1856 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by wl1 View Post

Your meter was calibrated by xrite in the factory, to a high standard.  I can't find the email I got back from xrite, to quote them, but they said further calibration is not required.  There is a link within this thread showing a study of very low "unit to unit" variance on the i1D3.

Profiling against an i1Pro or better - is prone to its own errors.  If you look into Repeatability and Reproducibility then you may conclude there are for more variables in play than just the meter precision/accuracy.  There is your TV, your environment and YOU!  The laptop, software rounding errors - if you don't believe me - re-run a calibnration 24 hrs after, trying to keep everything the same.  Then learn to live within those tolerances, else you will go mad.

Therefore, Having you not have profiled the i1d3 (i1 display pro), is it best to use it with matrix correction (for instance the generics in the combo when you start HCFR) or without any matrix at all?
post #1857 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by alamagar View Post


Therefore, Having you not have profiled the i1d3 (i1 display pro), is it best to use it with matrix correction (for instance the generics in the combo when you start HCFR) or without any matrix at all?

 

I would just use the choices under the spectral sampling selection pulldown during meter set-up.  To use meter correction values, from another source, for another meter, would not make sense to me.

post #1858 of 3446
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roby7108 View Post

Hello Zoyd.

I do not speak / read English well and therefore I find it hard to read the entire thread ...

I would like to know if the correction matrix can be considered valid also for the probe i1D2.
Considering that I always calibrated with this probe using the old version of ColorHCFR without using any matrix.

I ask this because I would go to your software version as I would use REC 709 (75%) and CC6.

thank you very much

no, don't use the D3 correction matrix for the D2, results would not be good. Assuming you have a plasma, I would use the plasma spectral sample (.ccss) correction option.
post #1859 of 3446
Quote:
Originally Posted by wl1 View Post

I would just use the choices under the spectral sampling selection pulldown during meter set-up.  To use meter correction values, from another source, for another meter, would not make sense to me.

Here´s that link about variables between tested units:
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/Calibration/MonitorCalibrationHardware.html

Many reported that there´s still some red tint with whitebalance after calibration with i1D3, if you can get rid of that with matrix I don´t see any reason why not to use.
Those are here that you can try them, you don´t have to use them. If spectral sample feels better then you should use it smile.gif
post #1860 of 3446
Hi
would you help me ? pls
what else I can do to make it better?
this is for sharp 844 LCD in movie av mode
gamma target 2.35














Mike
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