Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 48

Try a gamma setting of -1 or -2... if you go too far the image will become too dark and contrasty, will little to no shadow detail. Gamma doesn't affect black level but it does affect levels just above black greatly.

+1

This is the truth, especially on 1080p big screen TVs. My previous Samsung TV was a 32" 1080p (LN32B650) LCD and I had a 32" 1080p (LN32D550) LCD TV for a while too. On those sets, the difference between 480p DVD movies and 1080p BD movies was significant but the DVDs still looked quite good overall and not that far off from BDs.

On my 46" 1080p UN46EH6030, the difference between DVD and BD is huge and HD Cable from Comcast/Xfinity falls somewhere between DVD and BD, probably closer to DVD. HD streaming from Netflix is closer to BD, at least when the internet connection is running at full speed.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 12/20/12 at 10:00am

whether it's LED-LCD or CCFL-LCD doesn't really affect viewing angles usually (though edge-lit LED-LCDs may be worse than backlit LED-LCDs in terms of viewing angle in some cases)

the panel tech is far more important in this respect and S-PVA is the best for horizontal viewing angles from any *VA panel tech (not sure about vertical viewing angles, but I have no issues in this area on the TS01/TS02 panels)

have no clue what you're talking about, do you have some pics to share? I have had a TS02 EH5000, TS02 EH6000, and now own TS01 EH6030 and none of them have any such issue.

that brightness setting definitely looks too high (should be quite close to the default of 45) and the sharpness setting should be zero or just above zero (5 or so)

Do you know how the various VA panel techs rank in terms of vertical viewing angles from best to worst? Is S-PVA best for both H and V viewing angles or just H?

FYI, I added a second calibration with 2.35 gamma targeted in my "CAL-NIGHT Calibration/Settings" link in my sig.

TVs will often look better in stores because they have it on Dynamic mode with the contrast jacked all the way up. That looks great in certain environments but in any "normal" home environment it's going to result in a super-washed out picture.

My advice is to try different modes (standard or dynamic) and see if you can come up with something you like. If not, it may be worth finding a TV with an IPS panel. But as others have pointed out, there are downsides to IPS panels. I was actually looking at Panasonic TVs with IPS panels myself and thought the picture quality was significantly below Samsung and LG (on the mid-range models). Some people like 'em though.

I find that a sharpness setting below 20 makes text look blurry. I don't know why that would be, but I've messed around with it a good deal and I just can't watch the TV with a sharpness level around 0 or 5.

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I don't have that issue. Odds are you're just used to having some edge enhancement and so a neutral sharpness setting looks blurry to you. Try using a sharpness test pattern to find the optimal setting for your set. The Disney WOW BD has a particularly good one.

I'm not sure how they compare on vertical viewing angles. That's usually much less concern than horizontal angles. Like you said though, I have no problems with the mine and it seems to be pretty good in that regard.

Do the blacks look grey?

On my set, brightness should be around 45 plus or minus a few points. Anything over 45 reveals black bars below 16 (on AVS HD 709) and anything under 44 starts to crush bars 17 and up.

Is it possible you are running a full range signal (0-255) into the TV while it is expecting a limited range signal (16-25, TV set to Black level: "Low")? If so that could throw off the black/white point and you would have to crank the brightness way up to compensate for the mismatch in levels...

That could have been it. I turned the HDMI Black Level to Normal instead of Low and cranked the brightness back to 45. Looks better. Black is closer to black than grey now.

What is your source?

A bit back I posed an image of my set possibly doing something similar..



I've been meaning to post back about it again but was trying to wait until I got around to doing a decent calibration. But since you ask I will say that what I saw there diminished greatly after having the set for a couple days and at this point the bright corners are all but gone (if I crank backlight & brightness and have a very dark room I can notice it barely).

Low is the correct setting for video levels, not Normal.

Hmm... Having the HDMI Black set to normal looks better with my XBox 360. With it set to Low the brightness really needs to be cranked. I haven't checked the other sources (PS3, WD TV Live, DirecTV HD-DVR box).

reference levels should be set to standard on the 360

Actually, I find vertical viewing angles more important since my set is in my bedroom. When viewing the TV lying down, I'm at least a couple feet below the vertical center of the screen. I did get a lower TV stand than the one i used with my 32" Samsung LCD since the 46" is much taller and so has a much higher vertical center. The S-PVA tech seems to offer solid vertical viewing angles, especially compared to the S-IPS LG 42LK450 it replaced (which washed out vertically off-axis very quickly). Even for those not using these TVs in a bedroom, if you ever sit on the floor near the TV when gaming (like in the living room) or wall mount the set up high, it can be a concern.

This is my first time posting in this thread :-), so a few comments and questions:

1. I have a 6050 from Costco with a HS01 (Sharp) panel (figured I'd get that out of the way before any questions fly in).

2. I really enjoy the PQ, with the viewing angle issue being my only gripe. I really have no uniformity issues whatsoever.

3. Anyone else having issues with slightly crushing whites? On AVS HD 709 I can't seem to get the last couple white bars to show. I'm on:
Movie
Backlight: 14
Brightness: 44
Contrast: 85
Warm2
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off

4. This may have been discussed already, but HDMI Black Level and Film Mode are greyed out for me. Any reason why?

5. I appear to have a stuck (red/maroon) pixel near the center of my screen. I've tried rubbing over it with a microfiber cloth, but I can't seem to get it unstuck. It's not actually a dealbreaker for me, as I have to really exert myself to find it when I sit a normal distance from the set. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

HDMI black level is inoperative in Movie Mode because IIRC the set is regulating the video levels at their widest. I think this is optimal based on many different settings I've tried.

As for Film Mode, it will only function if you're using an -i / interlaced signal like 1080i. This is my visual preference over Samsung's AMP because I think it allows more consistent de-interlacing by the set and better frame pulldown, so I set my blu-ray player to it also. If you switch to most antenna or cable/satellite HD you'll likely notice Film Mode enabled there since those sources are rarely progressive.

You could try this: http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html

Not sure how well they work, but it's worth a shot.

Also some people say to try gently tapping the pixel just enough to make it ripple...

Hey guys .. Still waiting on my Black Friday special I ordered .. Supposed to be delivered next week so I don't know what panel I am getting yet .. It's the 55 inch LED from Best Buy.. I don't own a Bluray player just a regular DVD player so the AVS 709 DVD won't do me any good .. I use my TV mainly for cable viewing, sometimes Roku video streaming .. Without going through 1,000+ forum posts in here and 50 pages, can someone summarize a list of the optimal calibration settings for each panel type ?

In Movie mode, the only source that allows me to change that setting is the XBox 360. It's set to Normal every time I switch my AVR to the PS3 or the DTV HD-DVR that setting is disabled.
Changed that setting to standard. Adjusted my brightness accordingly. Seems to have helped.

Does anyone know how to perform a firmware update on this thing?

Also was is the most current up to date version?

It is only adjustable with an RGB signal. With a YCbCr signal, the TV will set itself to "Low" and then grey out.

If you set the xbox (or any source) to ouput RGB output you can potentially mismatch the TV's black level with the xbox's. Standard = black level "low" (limited/video range 16-235), Expanded = black level "normal" (full/PC range 0-255).

Cool. Well, now that I know I seem to have it set properly.

It actually says "Normal" when grayed out with YCbCr signals. However, that still means video levels in this case (16-235) and is likely referring that BTB and WTW is being passed/YCbCr is always video levels.

every set is different, not to mention that there are various different EH series models and panel types... even if you copy settings from someone who has the exact same screen size, model number, and panel version as your set, there is no guarantee it will work on your set

there are various calibration DVDs you can learn about in the calibration sub-forum and the Disney WOW DVD is a good one for beginners