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Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 50

post #1471 of 2546
I just got a UN55EH6000 , TH02 , from BB here in FL installed today. Geek Squad installer said TV was made in Sept. 2012 and has an "A" panel designation. Its all hooked up and has a great picture. The manager at BB knocked 200 off the 999.00 price they are selling them at, so i got it for 799.00. I got this deal after i recieved a UN55EH6001 the first time and it was defective (red line down the right side ) ! My installer said he has seen many bad 6001's so beware.Didn't look to see what version panel that 6001 had, as i was not aware of what to look for until running across this thread after its return. I got lucky i guess,as the replacement 6000 i recieved is a TH02 version ,"A" panel. All in all , i'm still messing with the settings , but it looks good to me. Still wondering if having the TH02 version, with an"A" panel will be better or more dependable in all aspects,But it sure sounds to me as if Samsung has some inherent problems with the 6001 and other panel versions. i guess time will tell huh !!!
post #1472 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by z06madman View Post

I just got a UN55EH6000 , TH02 , from BB here in FL installed today. Geek Squad installer said TV was made in Sept. 2012 and has an "A" panel designation. Its all hooked up and has a great picture. The manager at BB knocked 200 off the 999.00 price they are selling them at, so i got it for 799.00. I got this deal after i recieved a UN55EH6001 the first time and it was defective (red line down the right side ) ! My installer said he has seen many bad 6001's so beware.Didn't look to see what version panel that 6001 had, as i was not aware of what to look for until running across this thread after its return. I got lucky i guess,as the replacement 6000 i recieved is a TH02 version ,"A" panel. All in all , i'm still messing with the settings , but it looks good to me. Still wondering if having the TH02 version, with an"A" panel will be better or more dependable in all aspects,But it sure sounds to me as if Samsung has some inherent problems with the 6001 and other panel versions. i guess time will tell huh !!!

Now that my set has been calibrated, I am glad I stuck with it. The TH02 panel is pretty good. Very few issues, and far fewer than the BF special Panasonic P50S30 I bought last year. I'm still waiting for Best Buy to give me my price match, they were selling this exact model for $879 before BF, and they said they would honor the $220 price match. It's still processing I guess. I called a few days ago to make sure and they said it's been processed, sometimes it can take up to 2 billing cycles to show up though. Ugh. Should have done it in the store, the crew at my local store is generally excellent.
post #1473 of 2546
Hi everyone.

I am a huge fan of forums, as I have a Firebird that I built up with the help of forums, an Android phone that I have rooted and crazy customized with the aid of forums, and now I took the plunge with this TV in the 46 inch size! (un46EH6000FXZA)

Anyways, I have taken the advice of this forum and created the AVSHD 709 calibration disk and used it. This is my first time, and I seem to come up with the following settings:

mode: standard
backlight 12
contrast 100
brightness 45
sharpness 50
color 50
tint g50 r50
color space native
white balance not touched
gamma not touched
dynamic contrast high
black tone off
flesh tone 0
motion lighting off
color tone warm 1
size auto
digital signal noise filter off
auto motion plus clear
LED motion plus off

My problem is the colors. When I try the pattern that looks at the screen with the 6 different colors, I cant get any of the colors (except yellow) to show the upper ends of the spectrum. So it is losing definition in the purple, red, green, light blue and dark blue. How can I fix this??

I have the CS01 panel.

Also, I dislike the weird bubble around the players as I watch football. I don't know if this is called ghosting, but it makes sense if it is. It's distracting. How can I make this better?

Many thanks for everyone's help!!
post #1474 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

My problem is the colors. When I try the pattern that looks at the screen with the 6 different colors, I cant get any of the colors (except yellow) to show the upper ends of the spectrum. So it is losing definition in the purple, red, green, light blue and dark blue. How can I fix this??

Also, I dislike the weird bubble around the players as I watch football. I don't know if this is called ghosting, but it makes sense if it is. It's distracting. How can I make this better?

Contrast/Dynamic Contrast is set too high. This causes the colors to clip prematurely. It's also likely that the colors on the lower end are also getting crushed by dynamic contrast being set to high. My advice would be to turn dynamic contrast OFF as it will screw up your calibration being on. I would also set color space to AUTO, as native has some problems.

Not sure what you mean by bubbles. Your sharpness is set pretty high, so you could be seeing sharpening halos around people. High sharpening could make ghosting more noticeable. Don't expect to make football look perfect though, as it's a poor source.
post #1475 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Contrast/Dynamic Contrast is set too high. This causes the colors to clip prematurely. It's also likely that the colors on the lower end are also getting crushed by dynamic contrast being set to high. My advice would be to turn dynamic contrast OFF as it will screw up your calibration being on. I would also set color space to AUTO, as native has some problems.
Not sure what you mean by bubbles. Your sharpness is set pretty high, so you could be seeing sharpening halos around people. High sharpening could make ghosting more noticeable. Don't expect to make football look perfect though, as it's a poor source.

Thank you for an idea of where to start with this! It is greatly appreciated.

I have now turned dynamic contrast to OFF as well as setting the color space to AUTO.

The bubbles is like a cloud around each player. It is like a loss of definition around them. Say there is a player moving, directly around that player you cant see the grass in the background, but more of a clear jumbly mess. It's like a halo around the whole object that is moving.

Yeah, I know football is HD but over the airwaves so the quality wont be as good. So should I judge this halo only on DVD's?

Again, thanks for your response. I really appreciate the help in getting this TV set just right.

My THX blue glasses should show up by the end of the week so I can dial in the color too. smile.gif Anything else I should do with the color other than the blue filter glasses?
post #1476 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

Thank you for an idea of where to start with this! It is greatly appreciated.
I have now turned dynamic contrast to OFF as well as setting the color space to AUTO.
The bubbles is like a cloud around each player. It is like a loss of definition around them. Say there is a player moving, directly around that player you cant see the grass in the background, but more of a clear jumbly mess. It's like a halo around the whole object that is moving.
Yeah, I know football is HD but over the airwaves so the quality wont be as good. So should I judge this halo only on DVD's?
Again, thanks for your response. I really appreciate the help in getting this TV set just right.
My THX blue glasses should show up by the end of the week so I can dial in the color too. smile.gif Anything else I should do with the color other than the blue filter glasses?

I probably wouldn't judge the picture on football. If you get the same bubble around a high quality source like a blu ray, then I would look into it more.

Since you're on Standard mode, the color is probably set too high. A color setting of 50 is nearly accurate on Movie mode, but Standard mode has more saturaiton than move mode so I would recommend turning the color saturation down closer to 40 to compensate.
post #1477 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I probably wouldn't judge the picture on football. If you get the same bubble around a high quality source like a blu ray, then I would look into it more.
Since you're on Standard mode, the color is probably set too high. A color setting of 50 is nearly accurate on Movie mode, but Standard mode has more saturaiton than move mode so I would recommend turning the color saturation down closer to 40 to compensate.

ok, Ill throw in a movie and see if it disappears.

How do you accurately tune the color? is it with the blue filter?
post #1478 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

Hi everyone.
I am a huge fan of forums, as I have a Firebird that I built up with the help of forums, an Android phone that I have rooted and crazy customized with the aid of forums, and now I took the plunge with this TV in the 46 inch size! (un46EH6000FXZA)
Anyways, I have taken the advice of this forum and created the AVSHD 709 calibration disk and used it. This is my first time, and I seem to come up with the following settings:
mode: standard
backlight 12
contrast 100
brightness 45
sharpness 50
color 50
tint g50 r50

color space native
white balance not touched
gamma not touched
dynamic contrast high
black tone off
flesh tone 0
motion lighting off
color tone warm 1
size auto
digital signal noise filter off
auto motion plus clear
LED motion plus off
My problem is the colors. When I try the pattern that looks at the screen with the 6 different colors, I cant get any of the colors (except yellow) to show the upper ends of the spectrum. So it is losing definition in the purple, red, green, light blue and dark blue. How can I fix this??
I have the CS01 panel.
Also, I dislike the weird bubble around the players as I watch football. I don't know if this is called ghosting, but it makes sense if it is. It's distracting. How can I make this better?
Many thanks for everyone's help!!

It looks like you haven't actually adjusted contrast/brightness, sharpness, or color/tint. For the most part, your posted settings appear to be the defaults for Standard pic mode. Also, I recommend starting with Movie mode, since it's closer to a calibrated picture to begin with and disables the dynamic backlight feature (motion lighting), which can be annoying when it kicks in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

Thank you for an idea of where to start with this! It is greatly appreciated.
I have now turned dynamic contrast to OFF as well as setting the color space to AUTO.
The bubbles is like a cloud around each player. It is like a loss of definition around them. Say there is a player moving, directly around that player you cant see the grass in the background, but more of a clear jumbly mess. It's like a halo around the whole object that is moving.
Yeah, I know football is HD but over the airwaves so the quality wont be as good. So should I judge this halo only on DVD's?
Again, thanks for your response. I really appreciate the help in getting this TV set just right.
My THX blue glasses should show up by the end of the week so I can dial in the color too. smile.gif Anything else I should do with the color other than the blue filter glasses?

Setting Dynamic Contrast to Off and Color Space to Auto is a good start but you also need to lower sharpness. I have mine set at 0 but you could go to 5 or so without any ill effects. The best way to judge overall PQ is Blu-ray Disc not DVD, but DVD is still better than HD Cable/Sat.
post #1479 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by cathicool View Post

So I went back to BB and swapped my Cxxx version for a TS02. I hope it's better than sliced bread!
And if it isn't, I do have the panasonic viera L47E50 as my "backup"...........
Thanks everyone for all your help! Happy Holidays!

I'm still trying to figure out if there really is a big difference between panels. Since you've been able to directly compare the C version and T version panels, what are your thoughts? Was there a noticeable difference between the two?
post #1480 of 2546
Have any of you guys noticed a problem with audio sync when using the internal tuner on the EH6030? I've been noticing it a lot. Today I could clearly see people's lips were moving before you could hear the voice (delayed audio). I'm using the optical audio out routed to a receiver. I know it's not the receiver because I have an OTA set top box that doesn't have this problem. Also turning the TV off and back on seems to fix it temporarily.
post #1481 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I don't know exactly what the EH6030 is doing to have clearer motion than the EH6000 without AMP but I can tell you whatever it is doing works quite well based on my comparisons of the two when gaming or watching movies/TV shows. Perhaps it has a better video processor since it's 3D capable, but that is only speculation.
The 3D on it isn't really that good since while there is good depth and brightness there is far too much ghosting/crosstalk/double edges to images.

Thanks. Perhaps it has LED motion plus then.

Too bad about the 3D, though. If the price is right, I may wind up getting this tv anyway. I'll just watch 3D from a couple of extra feet away than I normally do. smile.gif
post #1482 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I probably wouldn't judge the picture on football. If you get the same bubble around a high quality source like a blu ray, then I would look into it more.
Since you're on Standard mode, the color is probably set too high. A color setting of 50 is nearly accurate on Movie mode, but Standard mode has more saturaiton than move mode so I would recommend turning the color saturation down closer to 40 to compensate.

Just making those other two adjustments you suggested helped out a lot!

How do you accurately adjust the color? Should I blindly lower the color? Or is this where the blue filter comes in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

It looks like you haven't actually adjusted contrast/brightness, sharpness, or color/tint. For the most part, your posted settings appear to be the defaults for Standard pic mode. Also, I recommend starting with Movie mode, since it's closer to a calibrated picture to begin with and disables the dynamic backlight feature (motion lighting), which can be annoying when it kicks in.
Setting Dynamic Contrast to Off and Color Space to Auto is a good start but you also need to lower sharpness. I have mine set at 0 but you could go to 5 or so without any ill effects. The best way to judge overall PQ is Blu-ray Disc not DVD, but DVD is still better than HD Cable/Sat.

I did attempt to adjust these, but with the sharpness I must admit I didn't really see a difference at any setting. Therefore, I just put it at the factory setting.

I read on this forum that it was best to adjust the standard mode. Is this not the case? Should I adjust all three modes? I guess I thought if I adjusted all of them per the AVSHD 709 DVD then they would all look identical, therefore making it dumb to have three settings if they all look the same. If I did adjust all three, would they still look different? Is there different processing that happens with each mode to still make them different? Im sorry if this is a newbie question. Im just trying to understand how these modes work.

Thanks again everyone for the continued assistance!!
post #1483 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

Just making those other two adjustments you suggested helped out a lot!
How do you accurately adjust the color? Should I blindly lower the color? Or is this where the blue filter comes in?
I did attempt to adjust these, but with the sharpness I must admit I didn't really see a difference at any setting. Therefore, I just put it at the factory setting.
I read on this forum that it was best to adjust the standard mode. Is this not the case? Should I adjust all three modes? I guess I thought if I adjusted all of them per the AVSHD 709 DVD then they would all look identical, therefore making it dumb to have three settings if they all look the same. If I did adjust all three, would they still look different? Is there different processing that happens with each mode to still make them different? Im sorry if this is a newbie question. Im just trying to understand how these modes work.
Thanks again everyone for the continued assistance!!

If you're using AVS HD 709, read the "Patterns Manual." It will tell you how to use the color patterns to set the color. The blue filter will come in handy on certain patterns, and for setting tint.

Movie mode is most accurate out of the box, although Standard can be adjusted to look about the same - it just takes more tweaks. There are a couple of differences in processing though, such as higher default contrast, color, and always-on backlight dimming. If you read the calibration link in my sig it goes over some of the differences.

I wouldn't adjust any of the other modes like "dynamic" or "entertain" as they most likely have undefeatable processing like dynamic contrast and sharpening.
post #1484 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwener View Post

I'm still trying to figure out if there really is a big difference between panels. Since you've been able to directly compare the C version and T version panels, what are your thoughts? Was there a noticeable difference between the two?

Actually, I haven'y directly the tv (except the one in the showroom in BB). I have read thru all 50 pages of this thread, and there was a few people who have said they had both and there was a noticable difference between the versions. Plus, I am concerned about the viewing angle since I have 3 kids and they will be using this tv for the wii u. The T version was said to have the best viewing angle of all the versions available. The IPS has the best viewing angle, but I think the trade off is the picture quality and the "black depth". I'm hoping this tv- T version and all, will be the best one. i guess I will find out soon...kids will unwrap the tv and the wii u tomorrow!
post #1485 of 2546
just got a UN65EH6000....what is the best calibration setting for this set in a medium lighting setting..
post #1486 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

If you're using AVS HD 709, read the "Patterns Manual." It will tell you how to use the color patterns to set the color. The blue filter will come in handy on certain patterns, and for setting tint.
Movie mode is most accurate out of the box, although Standard can be adjusted to look about the same - it just takes more tweaks. There are a couple of differences in processing though, such as higher default contrast, color, and always-on backlight dimming. If you read the calibration link in my sig it goes over some of the differences.
I wouldn't adjust any of the other modes like "dynamic" or "entertain" as they most likely have undefeatable processing like dynamic contrast and sharpening.

Great, thank you again!

What confuses me though is this PC mode stuff. Why would you want to rename an input as PC Mode? Do you actually hook your computer up to the TV for some reason? If you do, why?

I've been reading so much on this forum, and it seems that when I find the solution to one problem or question, two more are discovered! ugh! haha.

On a side note, Amazon dropped the price to 597.99 and I just price matched at BB!! Woohoo to a Benjamin and change credited to my credit card! Merry Christmas to me! smile.gif
post #1487 of 2546
Best Buy has it in their Sunday ad for $599.99.

Tapatalk'n on Xparent Red 2
post #1488 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4x View Post

Best Buy has it in their Sunday ad for $599.99.
Tapatalk'n on Xparent Red 2

Oh?! I didn't see that I guess. Either way, I am very happy with this TV AND the price! smile.gif
post #1489 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

Great, thank you again!
What confuses me though is this PC mode stuff. Why would you want to rename an input as PC Mode?

Do you actually hook your computer up to the TV for some reason? If you do, why?

Renaming the input to "PC" allows the TV to show 4:4:4 chroma (eliminates subampling) which makes text sharper for use with a PC. If your not hooking the TV up to a computer, don't worry about it.

There are many reasons why someone would hook up a computer to the TV. It is just a big monitor after all.
post #1490 of 2546
Just got the un60eh6000. Like it so far but I have 2 problems. I cannot get sound out of my receiver unless the tv is on. This was not the case with my LG 47LH90. Does this tv not have pass through or not support audio return or what? Any ideas? Also the eco sensor does not seem to work. Where is it located? I took a flashlight in a dark room and shined it all over the bezel and it made no difference. Receiver is a Yamaha 5.1 and it is hooked via HDMI to the HDMI/DVI 1on the tv.luojie
Edited by avsforumsdsd - 12/26/12 at 5:51pm
post #1491 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by johncourt View Post

Thanks. Perhaps it has LED motion plus then.
Too bad about the 3D, though. If the price is right, I may wind up getting this tv anyway. I'll just watch 3D from a couple of extra feet away than I normally do. smile.gif

all EH 5 and 6 series have LED Motion Plus... but my observations are with it off
post #1492 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post


I did attempt to adjust these, but with the sharpness I must admit I didn't really see a difference at any setting. Therefore, I just put it at the factory setting.
I read on this forum that it was best to adjust the standard mode. Is this not the case? Should I adjust all three modes? I guess I thought if I adjusted all of them per the AVSHD 709 DVD then they would all look identical, therefore making it dumb to have three settings if they all look the same. If I did adjust all three, would they still look different? Is there different processing that happens with each mode to still make them different? Im sorry if this is a newbie question. Im just trying to understand how these modes work.
Thanks again everyone for the continued assistance!!

I just use Movie mode. You can use Standard if you want, but Movie is the better starting point and has a fixed backlight (no auto-dimming in dark scenes). Don't forget to properly calibrate brightness/contrast and color/tint in addition to sharpness. Also, set picture size to Screen Fit.
post #1493 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

Renaming the input to "PC" allows the TV to show 4:4:4 chroma (eliminates subampling) which makes text sharper for use with a PC. If your not hooking the TV up to a computer, don't worry about it.
There are many reasons why someone would hook up a computer to the TV. It is just a big monitor after all.

great answer. easy to understand. I guess I dont have a need to hook my TV up to my computer, so I will just ignore the PC mode stuff. THANKS! smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I just use Movie mode. You can use Standard if you want, but Movie is the better starting point and has a fixed backlight (no auto-dimming in dark scenes). Don't forget to properly calibrate brightness/contrast and color/tint in addition to sharpness. Also, set picture size to Screen Fit.

I thought that the 6000 didn't use auto-dimming? I thought that was a point that people were complaining that no micro dimming or any of that was taking place?

I am still trying to figure out that AVSHD 709 calibration disk. So Ill keep fumbling around with it.

Yes, I did change the picture to screen fit. I definitely like that better. I saw the difference on the one screen on the AVSHD 709 disk that showed the different screen sizes.

Seriously, I am in love with this forum already. So many helpful people who are kind and patient helping me walk through all of this. THANKS EVERYONE!!!!! biggrin.gif
post #1494 of 2546
Nice TV! We set this up for Christmas and I was pleasantly surprised. Movie mode looked pretty decent right out of the box. I did some visual tweaks using AVSHD 709 and got something like (for a dark room):

Movie mode
Backlight: 10
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 43
Color: 48 ( I think) why doesn't this TV have a blue mode?

All picture enhancing "features" off

Black screen looked dark and uniform, and the grayscale looked pretty decent when observing ramps and steps. Overall, I'd say this was a pretty good deal. Got it on sale at Best Buy a few weeks ago.smile.gif
post #1495 of 2546
I have had this TV up and running for probably 2 weeks now and first thing I can say after reading this post now and back when I ordered it.

Out of the box my TV was great! I'm not videophile by any means, but I can see a good picture and that is what I got. I haven't touched the settings once and its been pretty darn good.

I'll play around with the settings tonight according to the recommendations I saw earlier in this thread to see how it changes.

All in all, I'm extremely happy with the deal I got on this tv.
post #1496 of 2546
I see in some calibrations that people have "Digital Noise Filter" set to AUTO. Do you agree or disagree with this?

I don't think it's needed at all for HD material. For SD, I suppose it could be useful, but I did a quick test the other night on an SD channel. It was a living room scene, and looking at detail on the couch's fabric, I could see that any time the noise filter was ON, it blurred the image and detail was lost. I ended up turning it off altogether, as I usually do with all of these artificial image "enhancements."
post #1497 of 2546
Here are the pre and post readings from my calibration.




These are the settings:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post

Here are my calibrated settings. I don't have the pre/post graphs, unfortunately. I'm supposed to get an email with them at some point... I think the brightness is a bit too high, IMO.
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 13
Contrast: 89
Brightness: 62
Sharpness: 20
Color: 53
Tint: 50/50
Color Space: Auto
White Balance Settings:
Offsets:
R: 25
G: 25
B: 21
Gains:
R: 15
G: 25
B: 35
Gamma: -1
Dynamic Contrast: off
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone 0
Color Tone: Warm 2
HDMI Black Level: Low
Auto Motion Plus: Clear
LED Motion Plus: Off

I have the brightness dialed back to 45 and the Sharpness at 5. Those are the only changes I needed to make to get the picture to look good to my eye post-calibration.
post #1498 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by ganzhimself View Post

Here are the pre and post readings from my calibration.


These are the settings:
I have the brightness dialed back to 45 and the Sharpness at 5. Those are the only changes I needed to make to get the picture to look good to my eye post-calibration.

WOW! What setting was the TV on for the "pre" measurements? That color temp is awful. I bet it looks waaay better now:)
post #1499 of 2546
I think the settings pre-calibration were whatever was set by the factory. The tech opened the service menu before he started calibration which IIRC resets everything back to the stock settings... Which are just awful.
post #1500 of 2546
Hello

Are there any owners of the 50EH6000 that can give some qualified comments about the display, such as black level, colour, viewing angle, motion blur, blue trails, input lag for video games etc.

Because it is a bit of a strange model, normally you don't get an LCD in 50", and there are no reviews of this particular model to be found. I have compared myself the 50EH6000 to the 55EH6000 and 60EH6000 in stores, and something about the 50" seems to look better (maybe because it's smaller?). I opened the built-in gray scale test pattern on each of them and found the 55-60" models were heavily tinting 90-100 stimulus yellow, and I had to reduce Contrast to around 80 to fix it, whereas the 50" did not have this problem. This might sound trivial but in fact on LCD displays you don't want to be lowering the Contrast setting as it reduces peak brightness without lowering the backlight, and so you lose a lot of contrast ratio that way.

Well anyway, if someone has the 50EH6000 please let me know what you think of it. Is it worth the pricetag of $888?

Thanks
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