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Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 53

post #1561 of 2322
12/30/12 at 7:31am
I have a couple of questions related to Auto Motion Plus (AMP) and Clear Motion Rate (CMR):

I'm curious to know if anyone has knowledge of how AMP actually works and what each setting does. Has anyone read a definitive description from Samsung? The user's manual for the 6000 (I actually have the 6001 but assume it's the same) doesn't really describe the settings; it only lists them.

I understand that AMP interpolates 24 fps content (like film) to make it look as if it were shot at 60 fps (like live video or soap operas). Since I personally dislike the "Soap Opera Effect" I simply turned off AMP, but now I'm reading posts that advise setting it to Clear or even Custom. I've tried both of these (Clear for watching HD movies on FIOS and Custom 10/0 while watching a blu-ray disc) and the picture still looks great. Standard causes Soap Opera Effect for HD movies.

Also curious to know what, if any, difference is made with a "Clear Motion Rate" of 240 vs 120. My 6001 supposedly has a CMR of 120 while the "standard" 6000 sets have a CMR of 240 according to the Samsung web site. According to Samsung, CMR is a function of refresh rate, image processor speed and backlight technology. Since the refresh rate and backlight technology of my 6001 is the same as the 6000, I can only assume I have a slower image processor. So I'm curious to know what sort of difference that might make in my picture quality.

TIA and Happy New Year to one and all!
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1562 of 2322
12/30/12 at 8:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johncourt View Post

The OCD and negativity on this site gets absolutely insane. It reaches a fever pitch with lcd/led tv's, as the hyper-critical, hyper-negative types will always post first, middle, and last, and with astonishing repetition, about their "issues" with a tv.
And you can't really address these issues logically ("maybe the problem is with the source, not the tv?" "Have you tried calibrating the set first?"), since the issue is due to the anxiety of the people posting, which cannot be easily addressed with a calibration disc.
There are tv's which are defective, but the defect rate, 3 - 5%, seems like 80-90% based on what's posted here because of the ridiculously skewed demographic on this forum, in which the hyper sensitive and sometimes flat out paranoid, are massively over-represented.

Dont think i could of worded it any better.
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post #1563 of 2322
12/30/12 at 9:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johncourt View Post

The OCD and negativity on this site gets absolutely insane. It reaches a fever pitch with lcd/led tv's, as the hyper-critical, hyper-negative types will always post first, middle, and last, and with astonishing repetition, about their "issues" with a tv.
And you can't really address these issues logically ("maybe the problem is with the source, not the tv?" "Have you tried calibrating the set first?"), since the issue is due to the anxiety of the people posting, which cannot be easily addressed with a calibration disc.
There are tv's which are defective, but the defect rate, 3 - 5%, seems like 80-90% based on what's posted here because of the ridiculously skewed demographic on this forum, in which the hyper sensitive and sometimes flat out paranoid, are massively over-represented.

I think you're being a little too critical of people who have issues with their sets.

First off, a lot of these people seem to be buying their first LED HD TV. So they aren't used to the technology. They don't realize, for example, that there can be a SUBSTANTIAL difference in picture quality when you are getting input from a poor HD signal versus a good signal. With standard definition sets it hardly matters--the picture has to be VERY bad for you to really notice it in standard definition. Since people don't realize that, they assume the picture looks bad because their TV sucks, not because they are getting a crappy HD input from their cable company.

Second, and more important, LED TVs do have some issues as a technology. With the backlit models you do get vertical banding and silhouetting with even the best TVs. Some people notice it more than others. Is it a deal-breaker? No, it probably shouldn't be, but then again you shouldn't really have to "settle" for something like that when you are purchasing a brand new product from a well-established brand. Then you look at the edge-lit models where flashlighting and other screen uniformity issues are standard. What other product do you purchase where you have to simply assume from the get-go that it is not going to work quite as well as you might like? When you buy a tablet, do you assume that your screen is going to have some uniformity issues and simply hope that you can live with them?

So yeah, some people are definitely too OCD or paranoid, but the technology shares some of the blame IMO.
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post #1564 of 2322
12/30/12 at 10:17am
A note on the "poor viewing angles" issue: it's been helped a lot (although it was never severe for me) by readjusting the settings with backlight turned down from maximum. Which, if I think about the technology of how the set works, makes sense. In my case I only went from a setting of 20 to 16.

Also if you have gamma boosted, this will make viewing angles worse. I boost mine by +1, but turned down just one notch from what it was and slightly raising contrast noticeably helped too.
Edited by bewlaybrothers - 1/13/13 at 9:27am
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post #1565 of 2322
12/30/12 at 3:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwener View Post

I think you're being a little too critical of people who have issues with their sets.
First off, a lot of these people seem to be buying their first LED HD TV. So they aren't used to the technology. They don't realize, for example, that there can be a SUBSTANTIAL difference in picture quality when you are getting input from a poor HD signal versus a good signal. With standard definition sets it hardly matters--the picture has to be VERY bad for you to really notice it in standard definition. Since people don't realize that, they assume the picture looks bad because their TV sucks, not because they are getting a crappy HD input from their cable company.
Second, and more important, LED TVs do have some issues as a technology. With the backlit models you do get vertical banding and silhouetting with even the best TVs. Some people notice it more than others. Is it a deal-breaker? No, it probably shouldn't be, but then again you shouldn't really have to "settle" for something like that when you are purchasing a brand new product from a well-established brand. Then you look at the edge-lit models where flashlighting and other screen uniformity issues are standard. What other product do you purchase where you have to simply assume from the get-go that it is not going to work quite as well as you might like? When you buy a tablet, do you assume that your screen is going to have some uniformity issues and simply hope that you can live with them?
So yeah, some people are definitely too OCD or paranoid, but the technology shares some of the blame IMO.

Good post. I have a standard LCD set, which for the most part, looks outstanding. It is not ABSOLUTELY uniform in backlighting, but this issue only becomes noticeable with a completely white screen and even then is not easy to spot.

Having said that, many if not most of the posters complaining are jumping to conclusions without the slightest bit of troubleshooting, which typically reveals a poor quality input as the culprit, or a complete absence of any attempt at calibration.

That means that anyone who is looking for information has to wade through dozens, if not hundreds of posts from those who are totally clueless who are blaming the set. This ruins the quality of the thread.

It becomes a giant, time draining b#tchfest, with about 10% content and 90% clueless whining. It is our responsibility then to point out to people that they should perform a basic calibration before posting anything about picture quality and not blame the tv exclusively without examining the possibility of the input source being at fault.

These two simple measures are almost NEVER performed by those who complain about the sets.
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post #1566 of 2322
12/30/12 at 9:27pm
I'm aware that this is the Samsung UNxxx thread but I've had it with the piss-poor viewing angles! I've turned down my backlight to 13 and it was good...for a while. Recently, and for some unknown reason it came back so I turned the backlight to 10 and it's still pretty bad.

I have about a month to decide if I want to return it but I need some help.

If you didn't see my previous posts, the two big issues I'm having with the Samsung UN46EH6000 are the bad off-angle viewing and automatic brightness (which I fixed by changing to Movie Mode).

I see Best Buy has an LG 50" 50LS4000 that's in my price range. Is that a good TV?

Will this particular LG model have those issues and is it worth it to exchange my Samsung?

I'm also debating on getting a 46" Vizio LED that I saw at Wal-Mart. I believe it's the M470VSE. Anyone have any opinions on that one?

My first HDTV was an early model 32" Vizio and I never had a single problem with it.
Edited by Dellamorte13 - 12/30/12 at 9:36pm
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post #1567 of 2322
12/31/12 at 2:19am
For LCD vs. LED owners, is LED actually a step backwards with regards to lighting uniformity? This seems to be a major stumbling block for LED TV's. Perhaps I should wait until LED tech. matures while I enjoy my LCD tv and just wait it out for a year or so?
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post #1568 of 2322
12/31/12 at 3:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johncourt View Post

For LCD vs. LED owners, is LED actually a step backwards with regards to lighting uniformity? This seems to be a major stumbling block for LED TV's. Perhaps I should wait until LED tech. matures while I enjoy my LCD tv and just wait it out for a year or so?

I think you might be overthinking it.

LEDs have already been out for a while. It seems like most TVs have been "maturing" towards edge lit LEDs, so I'm not sure waiting another year will fix anything.

But if you already have a nice LCD I guess there isn't a rush. My UN40EH5000 is a massive improvement over my 5 year old LCD, but I think that's mainly because of the better panel.

I guess it depends on how old your other TV is. A farily recent CCFL backlit TV will probably still look great as it's using a modern panel, but my 2008 CCFL LCD had an older MVA panel with much lighter blacks and worse viewing angles. Regardless of how the the uniformity compared, the rest of the picture was way below the newer TV.
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post #1569 of 2322
12/31/12 at 4:51am
I've got a sort of annoying issue, and I'm not sure what's the cause. I have a new UN65EH6000FXZA, Oppo BDP-103, and Marantz SR6006. When I start a Bluray (or DVD) the TV seems to lose signal a couple times before the movie actually starts. This happens between title screens, FBI warnings, menu loading, etc. The TV displays the signal-loss text and the clock and video settings text pops up. I'm not sure if this caused by the TV, the Bluray player, or the AV receiver. I didn't see anyway to shut off the signal-loss text on the TV. Has anyone experienced this?

btw: once the movie starts the picture is wonderful, no issues at all. Fabulous PQ from the Bluray player and TV thanks to the excellent advice and settings on this thread.
Edited by jmpatrick - 12/31/12 at 4:57am
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post #1570 of 2322
12/31/12 at 6:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpatrick View Post

I've got a sort of annoying issue, and I'm not sure what's the cause. I have a new UN65EH6000FXZA, Oppo BDP-103, and Marantz SR6006. When I start a Bluray (or DVD) the TV seems to lose signal a couple times before the movie actually starts. This happens between title screens, FBI warnings, menu loading, etc. The TV displays the signal-loss text and the clock and video settings text pops up. I'm not sure if this caused by the TV, the Bluray player, or the AV receiver. I didn't see anyway to shut off the signal-loss text on the TV. Has anyone experienced this?
btw: once the movie starts the picture is wonderful, no issues at all. Fabulous PQ from the Bluray player and TV thanks to the excellent advice and settings on this thread.

Dollars to donuts this is an issue with your BR player. Have you tried it on other sets as an experiment? BR players as I've found out don't have nearly the uniform performance of DVD players, at least not yet. They're too complicated and veer from what "standards" there are way too easily. I have a feeling that if you tell OPPO they might issue a firmware fix.
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post #1571 of 2322
12/31/12 at 6:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by polarisn1 View Post

I have watched a few movies now on DVD and Blu Ray, and Im slightly annoyed that there is still a black bar at the top and bottom of the screen. I have the setting to screen fit and this happens. I thought these TVs were built for the movie size? Why am I still getting black bars?
Im using the Sony BDP-S590 blu ray player.

this happens whenever the aspect ratio of the movie is wider or narrower than 16:9... Screen Fit is still the best setting though (gives you 0% overscan and more critically 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080i/p sources)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspect_ratio_(image)
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post #1572 of 2322
12/31/12 at 7:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

I have a couple of questions related to Auto Motion Plus (AMP) and Clear Motion Rate (CMR):
I'm curious to know if anyone has knowledge of how AMP actually works and what each setting does. Has anyone read a definitive description from Samsung? The user's manual for the 6000 (I actually have the 6001 but assume it's the same) doesn't really describe the settings; it only lists them.
I understand that AMP interpolates 24 fps content (like film) to make it look as if it were shot at 60 fps (like live video or soap operas). Since I personally dislike the "Soap Opera Effect" I simply turned off AMP, but now I'm reading posts that advise setting it to Clear or even Custom. I've tried both of these (Clear for watching HD movies on FIOS and Custom 10/0 while watching a blu-ray disc) and the picture still looks great. Standard causes Soap Opera Effect for HD movies.
Also curious to know what, if any, difference is made with a "Clear Motion Rate" of 240 vs 120. My 6001 supposedly has a CMR of 120 while the "standard" 6000 sets have a CMR of 240 according to the Samsung web site. According to Samsung, CMR is a function of refresh rate, image processor speed and backlight technology. Since the refresh rate and backlight technology of my 6001 is the same as the 6000, I can only assume I have a slower image processor. So I'm curious to know what sort of difference that might make in my picture quality.
TIA and Happy New Year to one and all!

"To adjust the Hyper Real look to your image, I would first suggest adjusting the Auto Motion Plus and LED Motion Plus options in your TV's menu. Settings are based on your personal preference, so unfortunately, I cannot provide any incite as to how to set up your TV. I can provide you with a list of what each setting does.

Auto Motion Plus Settings:
Off- Switches Auto Motion Plus off.
Clear- Provides high blur reduction, low judder reduction
Standard- Provides medium blur reductions, medium judder reduction
Smooth- Provides low blur reductions, high judder reduction.
Custom- Allows for customer user settings for blur and judder.
Demo- Displays the difference between Auto Motion Plus 120Hz on and off modes. The screen after applying “Auto Motion Plus” appears on the left.

LED Motion Plus is found under the following directions:
MENU → Picture → Advanced Settings → LED Motion Plus

Auto Motion Plus is found under the following directions:
MENU → Picture → Picture Options → Auto Motion Plus

If these options do not alleviate the issue, please contact Samsung Service.

-MrSamsung"

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/UN46EH6000FXZA
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post #1573 of 2322
12/31/12 at 7:05am
"I'm very sorry for the confusion. The EH6030 is a special TV that will offer a 120Hz panel and 120Hz in 3D mode, but it will not offer Auto Motion Plus (which offers the judder and blur reduction feature, as well as the frame interpolation feature that gives images that 120Hz feel).

-MrSamsung"

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/product/UN46EH6030FXZA

This answers my question: "What is the native refresh rate on this TV? Is it the same for both 2D and 3D?"
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post #1574 of 2322
12/31/12 at 7:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I think you might be overthinking it.
LEDs have already been out for a while. It seems like most TVs have been "maturing" towards edge lit LEDs, so I'm not sure waiting another year will fix anything.
But if you already have a nice LCD I guess there isn't a rush. My UN40EH5000 is a massive improvement over my 5 year old LCD, but I think that's mainly because of the better panel.
I guess it depends on how old your other TV is. A farily recent CCFL backlit TV will probably still look great as it's using a modern panel, but my 2008 CCFL LCD had an older MVA panel with much lighter blacks and worse viewing angles. Regardless of how the the uniformity compared, the rest of the picture was way below the newer TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johncourt View Post

For LCD vs. LED owners, is LED actually a step backwards with regards to lighting uniformity? This seems to be a major stumbling block for LED TV's. Perhaps I should wait until LED tech. matures while I enjoy my LCD tv and just wait it out for a year or so?

I'm not sure what's in store for Samsung's 2013 lineup of non-edgelit LED-LCDs. I hope more TV manufacturers adopt this desgin, so as to offer better screen uniformity and value to the masses in search of an affordable LED-LCD that focuses more on PQ than thinness. High-end full-array LED-LCDs are hard to come by and way too expensive for most TV buyers. Maybe at some point in the next few years local dimming could find it's way into models like the EH series?
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post #1575 of 2322
12/31/12 at 7:25am
Input appreciated!

3rd day with 46EH6000- version TS02

have hdtv settings just fine, movies/show look good (although could still use work on blacks and side angle).

Soap opera/reality show effect with Sony Blu -ray s-390. (just dvd's, haven't used blueray disc yet)

any setting recommendations? have been trying several with amp as thread suggests, just figured out can have saved settings for "standard", "movie", "dynamic" so learning curve still on upswing.

Thanks in advance
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post #1576 of 2322
12/31/12 at 7:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxwildns View Post

Input appreciated!
3rd day with 46EH6000- version TS02
have hdtv settings just fine, movies/show look good (although could still use work on blacks and side angle).
Soap opera/reality show effect with Sony Blu -ray s-390. (just dvd's, haven't used blueray disc yet)
any setting recommendations? have been trying several with amp as thread suggests, just figured out can have saved settings for "standard", "movie", "dynamic" so learning curve still on upswing.
Thanks in advance

Turn Auto Motion Plus to Off or Clear. That should minimize or eliminate the SOE.

For 24p BluRay content, you can set AMP to Custom and then set blur reduction to 10 and judder reduction to 0.
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post #1577 of 2322
12/31/12 at 9:25am
Watched Avengers on it last night, stunning picture quality. I also noticed i have a TH02 model i believe.

The game last night looked phenomenal, up close shots of course was amazing but so were the actual gameplay shots during the game from afar, nothing blurry or anything....super crisp and clean. Im tellin ya, man each day i just find myself more happy with this tv.
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post #1578 of 2322
12/31/12 at 11:29am
Can confirm degrade in PQ for UN40EH6030 in 3D. One pixel high horizontal alternating black/white turns to grey in the testbild images. Small text is blurry in 3D image. And rounded corners have more stair-stepping.

I was excited to get a 3d tv so cheap but the novelty wore off quickly. And I get eye fatigue so 3d will only be a sometime thing. Still 2d is excellent and no input lag from my PS3 games. Kinda disappointed that I thought I was getting 120 Hz and Full HD 3D but it's my first HDTV and the step up from SD is too great to be truly disappointed. But I probably could have saved some money if I hadn't been so hyped on 3D in the 1st place.

Question: Samsung has a 1006 firmware for the 6030 on their website but updating direct to tv only gives me the 1005 firmware. Is that normal?
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post #1579 of 2322
12/31/12 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I think you might be overthinking it.
LEDs have already been out for a while. It seems like most TVs have been "maturing" towards edge lit LEDs, so I'm not sure waiting another year will fix anything.
But if you already have a nice LCD I guess there isn't a rush. My UN40EH5000 is a massive improvement over my 5 year old LCD, but I think that's mainly because of the better panel.
I guess it depends on how old your other TV is. A farily recent CCFL backlit TV will probably still look great as it's using a modern panel, but my 2008 CCFL LCD had an older MVA panel with much lighter blacks and worse viewing angles. Regardless of how the the uniformity compared, the rest of the picture was way below the newer TV.

My panel looks great, but it's 40", so I'm looking for a larger screen to give me a bit more of a cinematic feel. At the very least a 46" and I also want very good 3D. I was looking at the 6030 but the 3D apparently is a bit flawed. Am also looking at the 55 or 60" 6000/6050 at costco, but it doesn't have 3D. I'm not in a huge rush as I like my current tv a lot.

Question: how is it possible to offer different levels of amp? I thought amp was simply doubling the frame rate: 48 frames instead of 24, or 60 rather than 30. It seems like frame interpolation should be on or off, so what does a tv do when it offers settings between 1 and 10???
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post #1580 of 2322
12/31/12 at 3:23pm
Thanks mr. G. Making progress.

Next issue for any input

.using external speaker
Old a/v receiver without optical. Got y connecter (3.5 to 2 female). Changed sound setting to external got nada. Plugged cable box to receiver and got sound.


Hopefully i d 10 t problem?
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post #1581 of 2322
12/31/12 at 3:42pm
Ok sorry id 10 t problem. Apparent cant use tv remote/ cable universal for volume.

Previous setup tv volume preamped the receiver
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post #1582 of 2322
1/1/13 at 8:42am
I have the CH02 panel and was wondering where I can find the preferred calibration settings for this panel? I have the 55EH6001 and would I would like to compare my settings to the CH02 suggested settings... I use STANDARD mode and found that this looks better than MOVIE. I thought I read a post that chicolom posted about this ....?

Disney WOW BD calibration on my CH02 panel gave me this:
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 42
Sharpness:40
Color: 35
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Color Space: Auto
White Balance (All 25's)
Gamma: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Motion Lighting: OFF
Color Tone: Standard
Size: 16:9
Digital Noise Filter: OFF
HDMI Black Level: Normal (greyed out)
Film Mode: Auto
Auto Motion Plus: Clear
LED Motion Plus: OFF
-- Eco Solution Menu--
Energy Saving: OFF
Eco Sensor: OFF
No Signal Power Off: 15 min
Auto Power Off: OFF

Questions / comments I have after reading through these posts...

1) I ran into an issue initially setting my screen size to "Screen Fit" while watching cable on a STB. I began seeing white lines at the very top of the screen during some commercials. I spoke to someone at Best Buy and he said that you should always set the screen size to "16:9" while watching cable and "Screen Fit" when watching BluRay. The reason he said was due to the white lines at the top actually containing information. When stations broadcast an HD signal they always "block" it to fit 16:9 so the space above and below is not used .... This is why I set mine to 16:9 and it looks good.

2) The Dynamic Contrast issue ... I see that many of here have it set to OFF. I tried it and it seems to dull down the PQ.. I turned it back up to MEDIUM and got more of that "pop" that was almost like a Dynamic mode (but in Standard) ... What does this feature do?

3) HDMI black level is always greyed out and is set to Normal. Why can't I change this?

4) I read on here that someone said the Eco-Solution in Standard mode cannot be bypassed .. ? I was able to turn it off in the settings I show above. Am I missing something?

5) What is the purpose of the Gamma setting, and should it be changed?

6) I tried the settings for MOVIE that some have suggested and found the scenes to have a dull and almost Olive colored appeance (including the people) ... This is why I prefer Standard.

7) I really haven't tweaked any tone/hue aside from changing color to 35..

8) Why does the Sharpness setting not really make that much of a difference? I honestly cannot see a difference between the '50' setting and the '10' setting that some suggest?

9) Without going to the "DYNAMIC" setting, is there a way other than the way I have calibrated to achieve that bright / vivid picture that is comparable to LCD or Plasma?

10) The CH02 calibration tables I would like to see these as well ...
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post #1583 of 2322
1/1/13 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmiller284 View Post

6) I tried the settings for MOVIE that some have suggested and found the scenes to have a dull and almost Olive colored appeance (including the people) ... This is why I prefer Standard.

Movie mode is the only way to get rid of that annoying auto brightness that happens in dark scenes. It's the TV's 2nd biggest weakness.

Can anyone answer my question please...?

"I see Best Buy has an LG 50" 50LS4000 that's in my price range. Is that a good TV?
Will this particular LG model have those issues and is it worth it to exchange my Samsung?
I'm also debating on getting a 46" Vizio LED that I saw at Wal-Mart. I believe it's the M470VSE. Anyone have any opinions on that one?"
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post #1584 of 2322
1/1/13 at 9:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by enomaj View Post

Can confirm degrade in PQ for UN40EH6030 in 3D. One pixel high horizontal alternating black/white turns to grey in the testbild images. Small text is blurry in 3D image. And rounded corners have more stair-stepping.
I was excited to get a 3d tv so cheap but the novelty wore off quickly. And I get eye fatigue so 3d will only be a sometime thing. Still 2d is excellent and no input lag from my PS3 games. Kinda disappointed that I thought I was getting 120 Hz and Full HD 3D but it's my first HDTV and the step up from SD is too great to be truly disappointed. But I probably could have saved some money if I hadn't been so hyped on 3D in the 1st place.
Question: Samsung has a 1006 firmware for the 6030 on their website but updating direct to tv only gives me the 1005 firmware. Is that normal?

yes and I think you've helped me figure out exactly why I never cared for the 3D on this TV... to anyone considering this TV, I'd recommend it for it's excellent PQ in 2D mode (which I found superior to the UN46EH6000 TS02)
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/1/13 at 9:39am
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post #1585 of 2322
1/1/13 at 9:41am
There are some very good information on Samsung's support site (http://is.gd/HWKmUn) that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread. Dozens of FAQ articles explain what each setting actually does technically.

For example, do a search on "auto motion plus" will show this FAQ article (http://is.gd/Ch2aHr) that explains:
Quote:
Off: Disables the interpolation of frames but does not disable the 120Hz processing.
Clear: This preset is optimized for high blur reduction but low judder reduction.
Standard: This preset is used for most programing with medium blur and judder reduction.
Smooth: This preset is used for high judder reduction but low blur reduction.
Custom: This is a user defined setting where you can set the judder and blur reduction to your personal preference.

Other good articles explain technically what happens in dynamic contrast, auto dimming, film mode, HDMI black level, black tone, colour space, and the mysterious 'auto' option many settings, e.g. 'auto' in digital noise filter "automatically switches between HIGH and OFF depending on the incoming signal".
Edited by derekwwww - 1/1/13 at 11:23am
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post #1586 of 2322
1/1/13 at 10:29am
jmiller, i can answer one of your questions re; hdmi black level

samsung reports if tv connected to external device, e.g. bluray, which supports this (my recollection if device supports "deep color'), then grayed out.

In general, grayed out means not option for that mode.
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post #1587 of 2322
1/1/13 at 11:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekwwww View Post

There are some very good information on Samsung's support site (http://is.gd/HWKmUn) that I haven't seen mentioned in this thread. Dozens of FAQ articles explain what each setting actually does technically.
For example, do a search on "auto motion plus" will show this FAQ article (http://is.gd/Ch2aHr) that explains:
Other good articles explain technically what happens in dynamic contrast, auto dimming, film mode, HDMI black level, black tone, colour space, and the mysterious 'auto' option many settings, e.g. 'auto' in digital noise filter "automatically switches between HIGH and OFF depending on the incoming signal".

Can you provide a link that details the difference between "Auto1" and "Auto2" for Film Mode on the UN46EH6030? The EH6000 only has Auto, which is why I mention my set is a EH6030.
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post #1588 of 2322
1/1/13 at 12:13pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Can you provide a link that details the difference between "Auto1" and "Auto2" for Film Mode on the UN46EH6030? The EH6000 only has Auto, which is why I mention my set is a EH6030.

Found these using the search function:
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportOwnersHowToGuidePopup.do?howto_guide_seq=3067&prd_ia_cd=N0000058&map_seq=78711
http://www.samsung.com/us/support/SupportOwnersFAQPopup.do?faq_id=FAQ00000564&fm_seq=732
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post #1589 of 2322
1/1/13 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmiller284 View Post

I have the CH02 panel and was wondering where I can find the preferred calibration settings for this panel? I have the 55EH6001 and would I would like to compare my settings to the CH02 suggested settings... I use STANDARD mode and found that this looks better than MOVIE. I thought I read a post that chicolom posted about this ....?
Disney WOW BD calibration on my CH02 panel gave me this:
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 20
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 42
Sharpness:40
Color: 35
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Color Space: Auto
White Balance (All 25's)
Gamma: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Motion Lighting: OFF
Color Tone: Standard
Size: 16:9
Digital Noise Filter: OFF
HDMI Black Level: Normal (greyed out)
Film Mode: Auto
Auto Motion Plus: Clear
LED Motion Plus: OFF
-- Eco Solution Menu--
Energy Saving: OFF
Eco Sensor: OFF
No Signal Power Off: 15 min
Auto Power Off: OFF
Questions / comments I have after reading through these posts...
1) I ran into an issue initially setting my screen size to "Screen Fit" while watching cable on a STB. I began seeing white lines at the very top of the screen during some commercials. I spoke to someone at Best Buy and he said that you should always set the screen size to "16:9" while watching cable and "Screen Fit" when watching BluRay. The reason he said was due to the white lines at the top actually containing information. When stations broadcast an HD signal they always "block" it to fit 16:9 so the space above and below is not used .... This is why I set mine to 16:9 and it looks good.


2) The Dynamic Contrast issue ... I see that many of here have it set to OFF. I tried it and it seems to dull down the PQ.. I turned it back up to MEDIUM and got more of that "pop" that was almost like a Dynamic mode (but in Standard) ... What does this feature do?



3) HDMI black level is always greyed out and is set to Normal. Why can't I change this?

4) I read on here that someone said the Eco-Solution in Standard mode cannot be bypassed .. ? I was able to turn it off in the settings I show above. Am I missing something?
5) What is the purpose of the Gamma setting, and should it be changed?
6) I tried the settings for MOVIE that some have suggested and found the scenes to have a dull and almost Olive colored appeance (including the people) ... This is why I prefer Standard.
7) I really haven't tweaked any tone/hue aside from changing color to 35..
8) Why does the Sharpness setting not really make that much of a difference? I honestly cannot see a difference between the '50' setting and the '10' setting that some suggest?
9) Without going to the "DYNAMIC" setting, is there a way other than the way I have calibrated to achieve that bright / vivid picture that is comparable to LCD or Plasma?
10) The CH02 calibration tables I would like to see these as well ...

Here's a few things I can think of off the top of my head....

1) I ran into an issue initially setting my screen size to "Screen Fit" while watching cable on a STB. I began seeing white lines at the very top of the screen during some commercials. I spoke to someone at Best Buy and he said that you should always set the screen size to "16:9" while watching cable and "Screen Fit" when watching BluRay. The reason he said was due to the white lines at the top actually containing information. When stations broadcast an HD signal they always "block" it to fit 16:9 so the space above and below is not used .... This is why I set mine to 16:9 and it looks good.

I've seen this on some channels, too. Screen fit is always best because you're not distorting the image, but if you get lines on some channels at the screen edge, 16:9 should be fine.

2) The Dynamic Contrast issue ... I see that many of here have it set to OFF. I tried it and it seems to dull down the PQ.. I turned it back up to MEDIUM and got more of that "pop" that was almost like a Dynamic mode (but in Standard) ... What does this feature do?

I don't know all the technical details, but it seems to crank up or turn down the brightness based on the overall brightness level of a scene. It makes the picture "pop" but at the expense of crushing blacks and clipping whites. If you look at a calibration pattern with it on and off, you can see the effect.

3) HDMI black level is always greyed out and is set to Normal. Why can't I change this?

I think this depends on whether the TV is receiving 0-255 levels, or 16-235.

9) Without going to the "DYNAMIC" setting, is there a way other than the way I have calibrated to achieve that bright / vivid picture that is comparable to LCD or Plasma?

it depends on your environment. Are you watching in a bright room? I can't imagine using those contrast and backlight settings without going blind, but I watch in a very dim room. I think a lot of times, people are very unimpressed with movie mode, even though it is the most accurate. The problem is, most people are used to seeing inaccurate displays that are way too bright and the color temp is way too cool. If you're used to the dynamic settings, it takes some time to adjust to a 6500K color temp. The fact is, people just aren't used to seeing a calibrated display. Beyond tweaking some basic settings like brightness and contrast and color, the only way to really calibrate the set is with a meter.

In the end, a lot of it's personal preference. Some people prefer a brighter picture with lots of pop, even though it's technically inaccurate. Usually, turning up the backlight will give the the typical bright LCD picture you see on showroom TVS, but if you're already at 20, that's as high as you can go. Maybe try dynamic contrast on low instead of the higher settings.
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post #1590 of 2322
1/1/13 at 2:17pm
Im from the UK and am looking to purchase a 46EH6030.

My only concern is for input lag.

I have read every page of this thread, and have not found a number for input lag. I would like it to be under 35ms like other 6 series LED.

People say they aren't seeing any input lag, but this video makes me think otherwise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQFwjFy43EM

This one from the same guy also shows a game

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yWImbWPzWI

This doesn't look so good to me.

I want this TV for Blu-ray playback, sports and more than anything, xbox gaming. Online gaming, Call of duty/Halo.

I don't want input lag to be an issue.

Can anybody with the 6030 give me so good feedback about, even better, an input lag number

Many thanks
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