Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 57

Little overwhelmed by all information found in this thread, but as a new 46 inch 6000 series owner I am looking for best picture settings on my tv. I watch a variety of shows, sports and movies, so I may have to setup different profiles? I have played a bit with the picture settings, but feel the picture could be more clear en brighter. I've also noticed that its gets washed out when watching from an angle.

you can use the same calibration for all sources, aside from a few tweaks for different HD signal types (like 720p/1080i/1080_24p/1080_60p) for things like Auto Motion Plus (AMP)

start with movie or standard mode (movie is more accurate to begin with, but both can be very accurate after calibration)

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/1500#post_22753584
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/10/13 at 1:49pm

What kind of TV do you have?

You're right! I have already tried LG and the viewing angle is better but still bad if say, children were under it. The black levels are horrible, the speakers are terrible and the TrueMotion is ****.

I like the PQ of plasmas (and that's it) but I don't want to buy one because I don't want to spend $800+ on a TV that will break if I breathe on it wrong so now I suppose I have two options:

1) Try a Vizio LCD/LED and cross my fingers that it will be more satisfactory than Samsung - a brand that was once attributed to quality.

or

2) Wait a few more years until TV manufactures get their **** together and can make a technology that works right.

Until then, I'll be rocking my old school 32" Vizio. These new TVs are poorly made!

Word.

Let's just assume this is true. Would custom mode BR=0 and JR=0 (i.e. no interpolation) also do 5:5 pulldown for 24p signals?

it should, but I no longer have the EH6000 to try it on

I'll start to try that this weekend, with Netflix, bluray, mkv on USB (played from my BR player, not the Samsung TV port), DVD, and TV as well. A comparison with AMP off and perhaps one with clear, both vs. Custom 0/10 and 0/0. Will just have to hope I can see it as objectively as possible and choose my sources well.

Any pc gamers using this as a monitor? How's the input lag? Does it support 4:4:4 chroma subsampling? Someone was saying the EH5000 supports it, so I'm betting it does, just wanted to confirm.

How exactly would we test this?

I have mine set to Off, with 24p output by a PS3.

According to Samsung's website, Off should use 120hz, but use no interpolation.

EDIT: Of course, the same page on their site says that 'Clear' has low blur and high judder reduction and Smooth has high blur and low judder reduction, so they can't even get their own documentation correct.

AMP info at the bottom

But at least the "AMP set to off but still on" seems to have been fixed in a firmware update:

Firmware update
Edited by gohanssjn - 1/10/13 at 9:21pm

I use the EH5000 as a monitor. It supports 4:4:4 if you name the input to "PC". I think the input lag is ~1-2 frames.

I think the EH6000 also does 4:4:4, but I don't know how Auto Motion Plus affects the input lag.

put AMP in Custom mode with BR and JR both at zero, then watch a BD movie in 1080/24p and look at the scrolling credits at the end... if it looks noticeably smoother/steadier than with AMP set to Clear or Off, then the set is doing 5:5 pulldown instead of 2:3 pulldown

Attempting my first ever calibration of my own using AVS 709 (I altered settings to suggested values in another thread on my other TV, a Panasonic TC-L42U22, but never actually calibrated one with a disk).

Right now trying to just do the basic settings, setting the color. How do I enter "blue mode" on my UN55EH6000F ver TH02 with firmware 1018.1? I remember some discussion of it somewhere in this thread (I've read every post over the past 3 days, but searching thus far has been fruitless).

only the EH5300/EH6030/EH6070 have the RGB only modes (which includes blue only mode)... the EH6000 doesn't have one

It would be nice if this were my final word about moving frame artifact-reduction using Samsung's Auto Motion Plus (AMP) but it's unlikely. I've changed my mind before and may again. But this is the best I can do for now.

There is no such thing as an "artifact free" viewing experience on this TV (or maybe any TVs). Until the standard becomes 48fps or higher such as the new HOBBIT movies' standard on all sources (which may never happen, and some people won't want it to), we will be dealing with this issue.

The key thing to remember with AMP is that you're trading one set of artifacts for another and it all depends on which artifacts you subjectively prefer. There are also practical considerations which I'll talk about.

So we're dealing with these sources for most people on these boards I'd say:

1080i or 720i broadcasts,
video files from USB sources or media servers which will usually default to 60p with or without upscaling,
streaming video such as Netflix and DVD which usually goes to 60p,
and true 24p sources, usually blu-ray discs originated on 24p film or HD material.

The practical consideration which for me comes first is that I almost certainly do not want to have to mess with the remote constantly while switching between sources for a tiny benefit in picture smoothness or for a certain look. That's why for a long time I experimented with using 1080i and Film Mode for all sources. While I think Film Mode is a good thing for broadcasts, it's impossible to use well for all video sources if you force 1080i. It introduces picture drawbacks (no true 24p) and can even cause some videos to not play at all depending on their encoding (I saw this happen on Netflix and on some USB files).

So I have set my blu-ray player, the Philips BDP-3406, to Auto for resolution choice and all else follows from that. As viewing material, I chose material that had fast moving action and a lot of contrast. GAME OF THRONES, both from USB mkv and blu-ray, and the recent Batman blu-ray. I also streamed some high-quality film-originated Netflix movies. My testing is subjective - it can't really be otherwise.

My testing shows that indeed you can get a very subtle improvement in smoothness for 24p sources by switching to Custom and having it on either 0/0 or Blur Reduction 10, Judder 0, depending on your preference. Having no judder reduction means none of that dreaded "Soap Opera Effect." This also works reasonably well for DVDs and USB files or other sources. But the improvement is very subtle to my eye. So subtle that I had to stop using it.

So what's the hangup? Netflix, unfortunately, and it's something I watch a lot. I have no idea why, when this source is reported as 60p, same as a DVD or other source, but it really doesn't like the Custom setting. It acts the same way as when my player "forgets" to switch off 24p, introducing a totally unacceptable "frame jerking" effect every few seconds.

Whether this is just a problem with my player (which has advantages that I picked it for, but other issues that go with it) or happens with others' too, I'd like to know. The same issue may appear with other streaming video apps like Amazon, Hulu, Vudu etc., but I don't really have or use those much. It's just really odd how this jerking happens only with Netflix and not DVD or other sources. Netflix will only appear "right" with AMP when it's set to Clear, or is disabled entirely. (I'm not even considering the SOE settings which interpolate frames.)

While Clear in Auto Motion Plus does help reduce blur and some judder, and DOES NOT create the dreaded Netflix jerk effect, it introduces other artifacts I don't prefer. The "credits test" clearly shows this, that it's lacking some smoothness while covering over others during regular picture displays.

An idea would be the Samsung able to be programmed to switch on one AMP mode for one mode (say 60p) and another for 24p, or even for different apps.

Until that happens, and since I hate switching between modes as I mentioned, there are only two generally acceptable AMP modes for all my sources: Clear or Off. Since I see new artifacts introduced by Clear, and I prefer the artifacts already inherent in the 60p or 24p as they appear on this TV, I will try having AMP off entirely for a long time and see if that's finally what I can settle on.

For those without streaming video issues as I described, Custom settings may be the way to go. But please try these tests and let us know what you come up with. Hope I helped you and didn't confuse the issue even more...
Edited by bewlaybrothers - 1/11/13 at 12:54pm

One quick P.S.: FWIW the "credits test" looked just about equally smooth for me with both AMP off and Custom 10/0, or 0/0. That gave me some peace of mind when switching it off. This is for the 6000 model and the most current firmware (1012) on the Samsung site. I'd like to know what the higher numbered shipping firmwares contain in more recent builds for this model, but there's no way to know unless Samsung uploads a newer one and has accurate release notes.

The viewing angles you're looking for are basically impossible with LCD tech at this point. Even the vaunted 4K LCD will have the same limitation. Your best bet is with a Plasma or if you can afford it, OLED. I don't where you got your bad experience with plasma, but they're quite reliable at this point. I had a 40" EH5000 and a 46" EH6000. Recently returned the 40" and got a Panasonic 50" 1080P U50 Plasma. The PQ blows away my Samsungs in a light controlled room and of course there isn't any problems with viewing angles at all. Still, I kept the 46" for gaming and using Chicolom's settings as it works well on my EH6000, makes the colors as neutral as possible as the default colors are quite off.

Well, here is where I am confused.

With Custom 0/0 or 10/0 I see a bit of a shutter. Now with 0/6-10 I see none of that and the text is perfectly clear, but then I get edge artifacts. There is a very specific part in the credits to The Incredibles where a train is passing in front of a blue background with yellow windows where the train seems to have the windows following the edges when at 0/10. Like the edges are 100ms behind the rest of the image. This also gives the 'soap opera' affect people always talk about.

Now, with 10/0... I see no gain over clear. Custom 0/0 does seem to give me the same picture quality as Off.

I do get a slight shutter effect in credits in Custom 0/0 or Off. But that makes sense right? The TV is doing 5:5 without any interpolation trying to fill frames that are not there, and instead just repeating the frames 5 times each. Since there is no extra data, it should look just like 24p footage, which has a slight shutter to it.

I am more than happy to do whatever else is asked to test this thing out

Oh, and my firmware is 1018.1 if that matters.

Because (as Plasma already stated) the 6000 doesn't support blue mode, you'll need to get some blue filter glasses. Not quite as accurate but they'll help you get the job done. They are inexpensive ($4.49) from the THX store - http://www.costore.com/THX/productthumbnails.asp
Edited by jonny-zed - 1/11/13 at 1:29pm

just got a eh6000 yesterday will someone who has this tv and direct tv please tell me the code so my direct tv remote will operate the tv
thank you in advance

(Sorry if this has been discussed, but I searched this thread and didn't find anything).

Just a few hours ago bought the UN50EH6000. (CH01 display, manuf Dec 2012).

Now my setup is that the TV is fed from a Denon receiver. The Denon has DVD/BluRay/TiVo/Mac Mini as inputs. All via HDMI, of course.

I first tried to display the Mac. This was a disaster. The image didn't fill the screen. If I turned on overscan then I lost stuff around the edge. Until I spotted the "name the input PC" detail. Success! The Mac now displays pixel perfect.

But I noticed an oddity with "PC" mode. If the input is 1080p/60hz - eg Mac Mini, BluRay - then the color options available to me are reduced. Many options are greyed out. But if I give it a 1080i image - DVD, TiVo - then all the options are available again.

In particular, "Color", "Tint", "Color Space", "Dynamic Contrast", "Black Tone", "Flesh Tone", "Motion Lighting", "Digital Noise Filter", "Film Mode', "AMP", "Led Motion Plus" are all disabled.

Is this normal? I played an old Digital Video Essentials DVD on the BluRay player (upconverted to 1080p/60Hz) and the color's seemed mostly good (blue was perfect; slight hint of red, each of the greens was subtly off) so I think color is adequate, but I'm worried about whether AMP will be on in this mode with no way of turning it off. I use the Mac to play some ripped DVDs... With 1080i input (TiVo/DVD player) then all the options are available to me, as normal.

Has anyone else seen this?

EDIT TO ADD: If I tell the Mac to use 24Hz or 30Hz then the settings become available again, but the display is the wrong size. So it looks like setting anything except 60Hz turns off the "PC" mode magic!
Edited by sweh - 1/12/13 at 5:21pm

I have DIRECTV and the 65eh6000.

What Directv receiver do you have? You can program your remote through the receivers menu. (Menu,then settings then scroll down to remote) Follow the onscreen instructions.

You can get 1:1 pixel mapping without renaming the input to PC. Just use "Screen Fit." "Screen fit" = 1:1 on the other modes, while "16:9" = 1:1 only if the input is renamed to PC. Outside of "PC" mode, 16:9 = overscan.

Some settings grey out for me when I'm in "PC" mode, so that's normal.

If the image isn't filling the screen when using "Screen Fit," the problem is with the source not filling the screen, not the TV.

Ah, interesting! That's... odd, but it works just as you say :-) Thanks! I'm upgrading from an old 42" Westinghouse; that was too dumb to do anything except 1:1 :-)

Further to the discussion about how some people complain about the PQ of this (or any) HDTV when they should be complaining about the source material...

...tonight I was over at someone else's house and they wanted to watch an episode of GAME OF THRONES. They happen to be an HBO subscriber through AT&T U-verse, so we dialed up episode 209 "Blackwater" through the On Demand service.

It has many night scenes, and they in particular looked awful. The compression was so heavy that I've seen illegal MP4 rips with better overall quality even at lower resolutions. And these folks spend over $100 a month for their cable package.

Yet there are customers who would return this set over such "defects" instead of putting blame where it belongs. In a few weeks the blu-ray set will be out and even the least discriminating viewer would see a night-and-day difference (what I did there, did you see it?).

And the cable companies wonder why people like me would rather just stream Netflix all day...

Amen to that. I recently got a Sony BDP that streams Netlix 1080p and DD+. I hard-wired it to my Internet router using a couple of Powerline adapters. The quality is far better than what I get from FIOS. My TV is officially rockin' now and I haven't even done a full callibration.

I have the 65eh6000 and direct tv hr21 receiver
i have tried all the codes in program the remote
(unless I missed some - which is possible)
I just thought if someone has recently done this they might remember where they found the proper code.
this tv looks great on HD and BR
lots of glare though and the stand is a joke

Hey all its been a while. Hope all you guys are enjoying technology as we know it.

Best Buy was selling an open box Samsung UN55EH6030 so I upgraded to that from my Panasonic TC-P50U1. 3D LED picture is nice compared to plasma and I am overall happy with it.

I'm looking to calibrate it myself out of the box, nothing fancy, no programs or CD's involved.

Would someone please tell me where to find general calibration settings?

Thanks a lot.

got the same tv with the same panel tried these settings but the picture looks dull a little blurry and the color doesnt really pop

Yes, Uverse does have extreme compression and in general pretty poor video quality. Lots of compression artifacts and pretty poor dark scene quality. Unfortuately it's the best cable available to me, the other option is some really bad mom and pop cable company that gets terrible reviews.

This is a good starting point http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/1500#post_22753584

To do a basic calibration though, you should use some test patterns like on AVS HD 709. Without them, you don't know where to set brightness, contrast, color, etc.

it's a calibrated TV, so it won't look like Store mode defaults (Dynamic mode) or even Standard mode at it's defaults... sounds like you're just not used to a calibrated TV (not to mention copying settings doesn't always work)