Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 59

that link is based on actual measurements with a light meter during the first hour or so the display has been running after being off for a long time... so at the very least the LED-LCD display measured in that article did dim from its initial brightness before stabilizing

I currently use these settings for everything. Since I'm using CAL-NIGHT mode (which BTW has a default contrast of 90 vs. 95 in Movie mode), the settings don't directly translate to Movie mode... but they should be close. FYI, CAL-NIGHT and CAL-DAY are two extra picture modes that can be turned on in the service menu (on the EH5300/EH6030/EH6070) under "Expert", "N/D Adjust".

Also, these settings produce a light output of about 55 fL, while my Movie mode settings provide about 40 fL.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/16/13 at 9:06pm

Just picked up a UN60EH6050 from Costco.

Last Friday, the price was $1349. I went in yesterday afternoon for a last minute waffling/double check on whether that model was the one I going to pick, and to my surprise, they had just lowered the price to $1049.

There was one left, so my waffling ended and put it on the pullcart


Thank you everyone for your advice and information on this thread. My Comcast cable box is screwed up at the moment so I wasn't able to see their HD PQ on the TV, but "Return of the King" on bluray looked fantastic to me with a little quick tweaking.

Now I have to wade back through the 60 page thread to get the calibration info

One Con. The viewing cone might affect some people with wide seating areas. Their is a little wash out noticeable at 45 degree off center. It's not a factor for me so I plan on keeping it.

I didn't need the 3D at the moment and the rest of the connectivity stuff on other TV's is not something I care for at all. I figure I'll just cycle through BluRay boxes with better and better content and speed than the lowball stuff that is probably stuck in the box of a TV

Thanks again

Here is a shortcut

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/420#post_22233258

fyi

For model UN65EH6000 model firmware version samsung posted in their website is older than the sets released now.

New TVs are getting released with 1014.1 version. Website is having 1012.3 version.

Check out below url for details.

http://forums.cnet.com/7723-13973_102-583332/un65eh6000-firmware/?tag=contentBody;threadListing

Not sure if it's different for 55s but my UN55EH6000 came with 1018.1, with a build date of October, 2012.

That's a fantastic price. You're right, just about any $100 blu ray player is going to have all of the 'smart' features that add many hundreds of dollars to the price of 'smart' tv's.

I've seen this tv in the store, and the picture looks very natural and neutral. I checked the picture off axis and yes, of course it's not quite as bright, but it still looks good.

I also saw a 55" vizio well south of $1K at costco. Will get model number later, but it also looks very good.

Been looking at the UN60EH6000/6050 but can only find H panels for it, are there any known issues with that panel?

Some people have noticed purple ghosting on Hxxx panels...

Been lurking on this thread for some time. Been looking for my first HDTV mainly for watching cable channels (digital & HD), sports, rarely movies, and never for use as a computer monitor or gaming. Decided on the UN55EH6000 and ordered it from BB online and was waiting for it to arrive. Then read about the panel lottery and realized that I would have no way to know which version I would get. Went to the local BB stores and found that they had Txxx, CHxx, and Hxxx versions so I paid for another TV, had the manager put the Txxx version on hold, and cancelled the online order. Reason I put it on hold was that the 60” suddenly looked tempting at only $100 more but none were in stock.

While waiting for more to come in I checked all the local Sears stores and they only had HS-01s. BB’s stock just came in and they are all HS-01 panels also. Looking at previous posts, it looks like this may be the only panel available for the 60”. Anyway, took a chance and bought the 60” which will be delivered on Monday. Will do a quick calibration (using info from this thread), and see if I can notice any of the banding or blue ghosting issues that others have reported. Hopefully not all HS01 panels have these problems or maybe these things may not be noticeable to me.

One interesting note is that I must have spoken to at least 5 or 6 BB associates and managers during my search and none of them knew about the different panel versions. Some of them seemed really interested in this information since they admitted that if they were paying for a Samsung TV, they would want a Samsung panel also. When I told the associate that helped me with the 60” purchase that the HS-01 panel was a Sharp, and that I had some PQ concerns he replied “Like the blue ghosting problem?”. He said that he’s had complaints about the lower end Sharp TVs having this issue.

Will post again once I’ve had a chance to watch some HD football/basketball games and a Blu Ray or two.

I think most of us calibrate our TV for night time movie watching under dim lighting, but such settings are too dim for other situatons. I want to share how I use the Eco Sensor feature to automatically adjust for both bright room and dim room without compromising picture quality.

• First, calibrate the TV for your usual dark room condition with Eco Sensor OFF. Note the backlight level (e.g. 12).
• Then, set the backlight to max (i.e. 20), switch Eco Sensor ON and set the Eco Sensor's minimum backlight to your earlier calibrated level (e.g. 12). That's it.

What happens now is that under dim light, the TV should be using backlight level 12, exactly the same as before. But under bright light, the TV should turn up its backlight, up to a maximum of 20, depending on the environment. So the night time movie viewing experience is the same as before, but day time experience is better. And it's adjusted automatically, more convenient than changing picture mode.

I have played with the Eco Sensor using a little torch light in a dark room. The light sensor is located at the remote sensor/joystick. As far as my eyes can tell the Eco Sensor feature only changes backlight level, not any other settings. So brightness, contrast, etc. seem to stay the same. (Those with hardware sensor can check if this is true.) The sensor takes about 1 minute to settle in the adjustment.

Hey, I've been curious about purchasing this set. What should I be looking for to determine that the panel is the "superior model."

Nice tip. I thought about doing that before.

Look at the link in my sig.

Thank you very much , sir.

Hi, guys shopping around for 60 set. I want to replace a 46 in set in the home theater. Were can I find the version number ??????

....Look up 2 posts.

By golly, it works, and I thought this feature was useless. As Spring and Summer light start again it'll really come in handy.

BTW does anyone appreciate that Samsung don't put their logo as a big stupid distracting backlit thing around the TV frame? I sure do.

Just wanted to post a data point for those concerned about price and panel.
I just bought a UN40EH6000 from Amazon for $579.00. It has a TS02 panel. Lucky me.
Everything has been great so far. No issues. I am moving from an old 32in Sony tube HDTV (that weighed 200 pounds) and didn't have nearly as much control over the picture as I do now. I like watching movies in a nearly dark room. When I tuned the new Samsung for that environment, it didn't really work for watching the NFL games yesterday. The colors look washed out in the daylight of the room. Just switching it to the default "Standard" mode made the field and the players "pop" again.
I plan on playing with all the modes for a couple weeks and then using some of the calibration tools discussed on this thread to refine a day and a night mode.

For the curious, I run all of my video sources (cable TV, Blu-ray, WD TV Live) through my Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A2000 receiver which is running the HQV Vida 1900 video processing chip. It upconverts everything to 1920 x 1080 60p. My instinct is to turn off all of the video "enhancement" processors in the TV and just let it be a display. Any comments? I will be playing with various setting off and on over the next couple weeks. I will let you know if I find anything dramatic.

Cheers!

Thank you.

the main differences between a night calibration and a day one are peak light output (determined by the backlight setting) and gamma (determined by the gamma setting)... so those are the settings to focus on when adapting a mode from one purpose to another

the contrast setting also affects light output but it should be set to the highest value that produces no clipping or discoloration... lowering it for a night mode would just lower the contrast ratio

Heading out to the store and trying to find a panel. In this order.

IPS
TS01
S-MVA
TH02

Txxx (such as TS01/TS02/TH02) panels are all Samsung S-PVA

Cxxx panels are all CMO S-MVA

There are no IPS panels in Samsung TVs.

Well ive had mine now since december and i couldnt be happier. One incredible set and now that hockey has kicked in, its even better. Everything i watch on this set looks killer, hockey looks amazing on it. Awesome white ice, vibrant colors, players look crisp and clean on the pic, just an awesome 55" tv that does what a good tv is supposed to do and thats look great.

I honestly can not suggest this set enough for those that only care about one thing, picture quality. If thats your bag, then this is your tv.

I bought a UN55EH6000 for 799 in november at best buy... After getting home I found out it was a CH02 panel which is supposedly bad.

Now, I just found out that best buy has the 60EH6000 for 999, and they are all either HS-01 or HH-01 panels. Can anyone tell me if these are good panels? I am thinking about returning the 55 and getting the 60 instead.

CH02 = Chi Mei S-MVA. Not necessarily "bad," just not the best performing tech.

Hxxx = Sharp panel.

My recommendation would be to look for a Txxx panel = Samsung SPVA.

Read the link in my sig.

Thanks, I havent been able to find any info on the difference between HS and HH. Thats all they have at the Best Buy...

I guess the better question would be whether upgrading from 55 to 60 is worth the $200 difference in price, as well as the better Sharp HH01 panel?

Haven’t heard of anyone finding a 60” with a Txxx panel, only Hxxx. Just got mine delivered yesterday and changed the settings to a rough average of the different calibrations that have been posted. Will try and do my own calibration this weekend. Watched some HD channels and NBA seemed fine. Australian Open was a little rough since the ball did seem to have more of a trail than I ever noticed on my old CRT. Suprisingly, ice hockey was good. Black puck over the ice didn’t have any trails. Also players in black didn’t leave the “blue ghost” effect over the white ice which is one of the biggest complaints about the Sharp panels. Even took a few photos to confirm this just in case my eyes weren’t sensitive enough to notice it. Can’t comment on the black levels since I was watching in a lit room and the content I was watching didn’t have dark scenes. Didn’t have time to look for HD movie broadcasts. Won’t be able to check any Blu Rays until I set up my player this weekend. I have a 55” Txxx on hold at BB and right now I’m on the fence. HD broadcasts looked good but not stunning. Don’t know if anyone has done a direct comparison between the SS and Sharp panels to see how much better the PQ on the SS is. Any input would be appreciated.

Just set up a UN60EH6000 yesterday and HD broadcasts looked good. However, SD broadcasts ranged from okay to terrible. Terrible channels were very fuzzy and soft. Okay channels were clearer but still had artifacts like pixilation, and sometimes “rough” motion. Tried “screen fit” and “16:9” modes but PQ was still bad. “Wide” is just horrible. Originally had the cable box output at 720p and 1080i. Tried changing cable box output to 420i and 420p to see if it was a problem with the CB doing a poor scaling job but didn’t make a difference. Forgot to mention I’m using HDMI cable. I don’t ever remember seeing this bad of a problem on other HDTVs that I’ve seen. Anyone have any idea if this is specific to the mid-level Samsungs or do all brands have this problem. Would appreciate input on this since this is a real big issue to me until all channels are available in HD.

I don't think there is much if any difference between HS and HH. They might be made at different factories, but they're both Sharp.


There are a couple sizes that don't use Samsung Panels, and I think the 60" might be one of them. So 37", 39", 50", and 60" that I know of.

One person had an Hxxx panel and had blue ghosting but switched it for a Txxx panel and it was better. But you said you didn't see any blue ghosting...
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406151/the-official-2012-samsung-eh4000-eh5000-eh5300-owners-thread/720#post_22689169