Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 61

I took a look at the 60" 6050 again at costco. With a completely white screen, there is very minor non-uniformity. The bottom corners are slightly darker than completely white, and the furthest half inch or so of the right and left edges may have been less than completely white. These issues are only evident if your only goal is to spot non uniformity issues, and even then the issues range from between minor to non-existent.

Overall uniformity is excellent however. This tv looks great and I hope to own one soon.

PS: if you want to save even more money, costco has a vizio 55" for just $700. The bezel is a bit large, and you're not going to wow anyone with the brand name, but the tv itself looked really good, esp. for the price.

Is the 6050 backlit like the 6000? Every 55" or 60" 6000 I've seen has slight darkening at all four corners probably due to the LED layout. By the way I exchanged my cable box yesterday and it was DOA. Had a pretty much all black screen so I decided to turn off all the lights to look for leaking. Screen wasn't totally uniformly black but it was pretty close. Biggest thing I saw was a fist sized flashlight(?) toward the bottom edge of the screen but it was pretty faint.

Best of luck to you my friend. Here's hoping you got a good one!

I'm still very happy having all AMP processing off completely on all sources. The bottom line seems to be that the 120Hz refresh is plenty for me and the original frame artifacts don't offend my eye nearly as much as adding artificial smoothing etc. Makes me wonder why I didn't try it before. AMP might actually make more sense for 60Hz sets, but I guess they fall into the more budget category and AMP doesn't figure into their spec range.

I bought a EH6001 on black friday and it one of the best decisions i have made so far. great tv. I did have one question tho, and it was how do I get sound from my home theatre system thru the Samsung Media Player.

thanks and great tv.

I have this very same unit and i haven never noticed the bottm corners darker than the rest of the screen. Maybe i haven't really "looked" for it, y will next time.

Great TV by the way.

I think what you need to do is what I did to get the USB media player audio to my home system.

I simply just connected an optical cable from the TV audio out to the receiver. It's located in AV1 on my Yamaha.

So when I stick a USB stick in the TV and choose a movie or whatever to watch I just have to click over to AV1 on the receiver to hear audio.

I think it's mainly a matter of personal preference. Some people like the "pure" picture you supposedly get with Auto Motion Plus set to "off". I really like having it on "clear" when I'm watching TV (especially sports), and I usually just leave it on if I'm watching from a different source. I honestly don't see any negatives to having it on "clear" and I do notice increased blurring in panning-type scenes when it is set of "off".

Going to try and calibrate my 60" 6000 this weekend and have both the WOW and AVS disks. Before I start I'd like to understand the relationship between backlight setting and brightness/contrast. If you choose a backlight setting and calibrate the brightess/contrast does changing the backlight later mess up brightness/contrast? Or is brightness/contrast more of a "range" setting with backlight being an "output" setting making thereby making them independent? Also could someone explain what the gamma setting does. WOW and AVS manuals don't really address gamma.

you want to set brightness and contrast first

1. set contrast to highest setting that produces no clipping or discoloration on the white clipping pattern on AVSHD709

2. set brightness to lowest setting that shows digital 17 and up flashing on the black clipping pattern

3. recheck contrast

4. recheck brightness if contrast was changed in step 3

5. make sure both settings are optimized at the same time

6. set backlight to desired light output (to taste if you have no meter or to 30-50 fL if you have a meter)

7. gamma should set with a meter to 2.4 for a dark room and 2.2 for a dim room (2.0 for a bright room)... if you have no meter, leave it at zero (default)

PlasmaPZ80U,
Thanks for the input. Do you mind explaining gamma a little more. When changing the gamma, how is the image affected. Colors (?), contrast (?), brightness (?).

setting the gamma control lower than zero (-1, -2, or -3) will raise point gamma/make the midtones darker and make the image seem like it has better contrast and more saturated colors... going too far, however, can cause shadow details to be crushed and can make the image too dim (especially if the backlight isn't set very high)

setting the gamma control higher than zero (+1, +2, or +3) will lower point gamma/make the midtones brighter and make the image seem like it has worse contrast and less saturated colors... setting the gamma control too high can cause the image to appear flat and washed out with details near white blown out/crushed

Okay got it. At least I know what I'm looking for now. Thanks.

I seem to remember some firmwares having an issue with the 'Off' setting of the Auto Motion Plus setting. Try setting Auto motion Plus to 'Custom' with a Blur reduction of 10 and a Jitter reduction of 0.

the latest firmware on the Samsung website fixes that issue

BB just delivered my set. I got the un60eh6000. Its a HS-01 version. I havent seen one yet that hasnt been HXXX so the 60 inch screens must all be the sharp screen. Thats the feed back IM getting anyway. The guys said that the tv should warm up to room temp before I plug it in and turn on. Guess that makes sence. Its a real heat wave here in Wisconsin today. I think it will get out of the single digits for temps finally and yes thats now on the positive side of "0". Once it warms up Ill be ancious to see if the screen meets my approval or not. I was thinking on possibly going with the ES series but am hopefully the EH will be the right desision. I never calibrated a set before so this will be my first shot at it. I have some more reading , searching to do on this forum something to pass the time while the tv gets up to room temp.

Newbe here but its a great site very informative.

Glad to be back in the big screen arena again. I bought a 50" Hitchi Ultravision back in '97. Lost it in a divorce in"02. Been on the go enjoying myself ever since, had no need for a big tv it seemed. Now here I am ready to be a couch hugging sports / movie junkie again.

Forgot to mension that this tv is hot off the press. Build date of JANUARY 2013. Hopefully SS got some feed back on the the screen issues and have now corrected them. Ill be glad if I dont have the ghosting going on. Maybe we all can start to be more at ease with this subject then.

Good luck with the set and please let us know what the firmware version is when you get a chance. It's possible they won't upload any more recent ones for ours but it's good to have the info. And yes, give yourself plenty of time and attempts to get the calibration and settings right. This set benefits hugely from it. More than half a year later and I'm happier than ever with mine!

Well I have a few comments and a few questions. The sticker on the back of the tv states MFD. JANUARY 2013. The version as per the sticker on the box is HS01 (SHARP).Then I went into the service menu ON THE POWERED UP TV SCREEN and found that it says

MODEL : UE6000 why does this show UE? I thought these were eh6000 models?

TYPE : 60H1AFOD the "H" after the 60 making it a sharp panel

Build Date : 9-12-2013 guess the sticker was made JANUARY 2013 tv was made 9-12-2012 ?????

T-MXPFAUSC- 1018.1 this must be the firmware version?

FRC VERSION: 0X001C not sure what this means?

If you get into this menu there is other info as well but I thought these above things were worth mensioning. As of now Im happy. Watching hockey looks great. Non HD channels does have pixelating but overall happy. Thats about were Im at right now. I need to play around with it now and see what I find.

Calibrated my 60" 6000 HS-01 panel today using a WOW disk. I think I've got brightness,contrast, color, and tint pretty well zeroed in. Gamma and backlight are more to my taste but Gamma is around 2.1 for my moderately lit room. Don't have a real accurate way to calibrate white balance but most settings I've seen are pretty close to default 25 so I'll leave them around there. However, I've seen posted R-Gain settings anywhere from 12 to 25. One posting was specifically for the same model and panel calibrated by the Geek Squad and R-Gain was 12. I know it's hard to adjust by eye but what should I be looking for when I fool around with R-Gain? Maybe reds creeping into near whites? Been reading about white balance but I beginner could easily get things mixed up.

So far I'm starting to like this unit more and more. Was initially worried about the Sharp panel but good sources look great to me. Will try the AVS disk tomorrow just to see if there is much of a difference.

Not 100% sure, but I believe the U means LED-LCD and the E means 2012 model year

UNxxEHxxxx

I'd leave white balance alone without a meter. Just toggle between Warm1 and Warm2 to see which gives the most neutral grays/whites.

I think I've managed a quite good white balance/fine color group of settings with just my eyes. The trick is to use the grayscale and color step patterns on the 709 disc. Deliberately push each gain (and then offset if needed) too far in either direction, back and forth, while looking at the greyscale. This will help you get it as neutral as possible as you'll start to see when it isn't. Take your time with this. And remember if it doesn't work out you can always put everything back on 25, no bother.

Then go to the color step pattern and make sure you have distinct steps on those (blues will probably be most challenging). Here you might tweak the master color level and contrast, and maybe the offsets could help a bit. Switch back to the greyscale and then to the steps as needed.

After doing what I described here, I have very pure, bright whites, natural flesh tones and dark blacks with accurate colors. I'd be curious if a pro meter would corroborate that. I think I'd score surprisingly well. :-)

I assumed "Build Date" referred to the firmware build...

You said your build date is 2013, I assume that's a typo? If it refers to firmeware build, your version is 1018 (and possibly from 9-12-2012) and the one on samsungs website is 1012 from june (6-3-2012). That could make sense.

It's a little annoying that samsung doesn't seem to bother to update their firmware on their website for most TVs. The "smart" TVs have gotten pretty regular updates. They probably need more software maintenance.


I think these TV have some red push in the grayscale, and for mine there is a pink cast to the upper end of the grayscale at default white balance settings for all the presets (Warm 1, Warm 2, etc).

Turning red gain down looks much better to my eyes.


I think people usually leave on color alone (green?) and adjust the other two to make it easier. You can always raise or lower all the gains by adjusting the contrast (white point) and all the offsets with brightness (black point).

Bought my UN46EH6000 at BestBuy for $750 recently. I'm considering exchanging it for the 50" for $100 more. Anyone think this is worth it?

My panel is version TS02 with firmware 1018.1. Only thing I'm thinking is the availability of a good version of the 50".

I've been very satisfied with this set. I purchased this TV after returning a less expensive Panasonic 50" plasma that just had too many issues that I didn't like, (IR, line bleed, etc). I feel as though I've always been an LCD/LED type of guy.

The UN46EH6000 is great. No major issues other than the minor traits of this model previously mentioned, (slight corner shading, cheap flimsy base stand). All in all, the pros greatly outweigh the cons in my mind. PQ is fantastic and I'm one of the few that actually likes AMP on with a bit of SOE in certain circumstances and situations, (not while watching sports).

Best Buy has the 55 for $899 on their website. I payed $999 (same price as the 50) took receipt to BB and they matched the price.

****Update**** PC Richards has the 55 for $799 going to head back to BB for another price match :-)
Edited by marvin1968 - 1/27/13 at 6:12am

It was one at a time for me on adjusting the R-Gain, then B-Gain, and then very little G-Gain. The B-offset was helpful since blue is the toughest color (the sets are very blue because I suspect they're biased to a daylight color to help compensate for what Samsung assumes is intruding window light). Yeah, you can just adjust brightness and contrast but you do that anyway first thing and you won't get color improvements. This has made my set look better than ever.

If anyone wants to eyeball calibrate their tv turn on this Liverpool Oldham match on FSC. Whatever camera they are using at this ground is stunning. The image looks incredibly real. Whoever white balanced the camera should get a raise.

On top of that the atmosphere/surroundings/pitch/etc contain every color you need to see.

The green scale is perfect to tinker with, just tune it in and you will agree I am sure.
Edited by blkacklover - 1/27/13 at 8:41am

I wouldn't assume that... adjusting white balance/grayscale by eye can be an exercise in frustration. If it really could be set by eye alone reliably, there would be no need for color analyzers (meters).

Even gamma can be very hard to set correctly without a meter, but you could find a decent balance between shadow detail and contrast.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/28/13 at 8:20am

It's better to have an expensive meter or hire an expensive calibration, sure. But I might've agreed if you'd used the words "can be" instead of "is." Half an hour or so of said frustration in my case paid off nicely. My and others' sets have somewhat too much red at certain defaults and way too much blue, and the excess can be cut by a standardized visual like a greyscale. It's very dependable if you know what to look for.