Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 62

I'm glad these sets have user accessible greyscale controls.

My last TV required going into the service menu to get the same controls, and then you only had hex values to adjust with no "reset" option.

: \

Wow. These are benefits that not only did I not know about when I bought this, my first HDTV, but sadly wouldn't have missed if I hadn't done my reading and experimenting here. I can't imagine any major TV manufacturer not allowing these controls.

Just lost the "screen fit" option for my cable feed. Still got it for blu ray. Tried swapping the HDMI connections and same thing. I know I used to have the screen fit option for HD channels and I think most if not all SD channels. Now the option is grayed out. Anyone know what's happening?

Sorry, I figured it out. Got a new cable box yesterday and had the output resolution set up wrong. Had to set the output to HD resolution so now screen fit is available again. I had to exchange the box three times this week so forgot to set up this 4th one. Time Warner sucks.

Help needed. When I put the picture size to screen fit I get a vertical 1 inch black bar about 2 inches from the left edge. On the other side of the bar I get about 1 inch of the picture from the right had side of the screen. The right hand side of the screen I get a colorful thin line running up the edge. I can use the arrow buttons to move the picture left right up down but its not enough to move the black bar far enough to get it out to the edge of the screen. Will try to post pic tomorrow. Any ideas?

my point is if you can't get a meter or pro calibration, then the next best thing is to use Warm2 or Warm1 (for the white balance portion of the calibration) and that trying to do white balance by eye is less effective/reliable than just using the w/b defaults for Warm2 or Warm1
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/28/13 at 2:17pm

Hey everyone,

So, I decided on the 55 inch version of the unxxeh6000 and was really wondering which panel model numbers are the best (if there is a best one or an order e.g. 1,2,3 with the most minimal to no light bleeding or flashlighting and absolutely no purple ghosting ) and which panel numbers should I avoid. This would really help when I go to the warehouse and pick out the tv. Thanks.

Is this with cable? You might need to overscan some (16:9) if the image isn't filling the screen.

Look at my sig for panel info.

Chicolom,

Thanks for the post and information regarding the panels (it's really very informative and helpful). So, just to clarify it seems, based on your post, that I should be looking for Samsung panels as the most reliable/best and it would be located on the side of the box starting with the letter A:

For example:
Version: Ax-xx

Thanks.

You're welcome.

I think your a little confused about the labels though. The "A" is from the service menu code, it's NOT visible anywhere else but the service menu. The side of the box will say "Txxx" version. Axxx would be an AUO Optronic panel, according to my post.

Also, the other panels aren't necessarily less reliable. They just currently don't match the contrast and viewing angle performance of the S-PVA matrices (what Samsung is currently using).

There is no doubt that having a pro come and calibrate your TV is the best method to getting a great picture on your TV/Display.

At the same time, if the user is sitting there looking at their TV and thinking this is way too red or blue or green and can get into the settings and work with them and be happy with the result...

This is totally acceptable.

Particularly in this situation where you adjust outside of the service mode (where tragedies can happen) and if you set Red Offset to 0 and that looks great to you, more power to you. A few days later if it wasn't what you wanted you can just move it right back to the default. No harm done.

bought a UN40EH6000 from local bestbuy with TS02 panel and when i checked for a black image (screen mirror from macbook air via apple TV) looks something as image attached

use Movie as display mode, could the experts please tell me if this has something to do with TV or is it just the settings?

EDIT : Q: I can wait for another 2-3 months, should i wait for 2013 models to start coming in? (budget is around $900 and am also thinking of buying 46")
Edited by airride - 1/28/13 at 9:50am

Hi Airride,

I'm no expert but the UN60EH6000 that I purchased last week at Costco has some of the same issues as your set. I wouldn't say nearly as bad if the picture represents what you're seeing in person. I have bleeding in the lower left corner which is pretty large in size but not very bright but it is detectable during the darkest scenes in movies. Some slight in the lower right but it is not very noticeable. I have an HS01 panel. I'm doing some tests to see if its something that will bother me during real world usage. The consensus on this model is that it has very little to no bleeding or clouding issues so we may have gotten a bad unit. So I may pickup another unit for comparison if I can't live it but I'm reluctant because the set I have does not seem to have the purple ghosting that some units have. Well, not in the severity that others have spoken of anyways. I do not see ghosting in the Return of the King scene where Sam confronts Gollum in the swamp, but I do see slight purple ghosting in The Amazing Spiderman when Peter is running from the thugs in the alley and is climbing the fire escape. I also see it in the end when he answers the door and he is silhouetted. It is very slight but I'm thinking it's not as bad as what others have pointed out. You can see it if you're looking for it.

How long do you have to price match? Because $750 does not seem to be a great deal for the 46" version at this time of year. I think you could get $100 or even $150 knocked off that if you watch the price and hit a sale.

Best Buy has the 55" UN55EH6000FXZA on sale right now for $899. Is that a good deal or is it really the normal price? And do most get any extended warranty? I usually don't get an extended warranty on much, but after having issues with my then 2 year old Vizio 47" HD TV, I am now thinking more about getting the extended warranty on my next TV purchase.

Thanks

Joe

Hey guys, looking to buy the UN55EH6000 and run across Cnet's review about the poor off-angle viewing of this TV. I will be looking at the TV from about a 30 to 35 degree angle and wanted to know if it's a non issue at this angle or will it degrade IQ enough to really notice. Thanks

Best Buy has the 55" 6030 for 899 too.

Lowest I've seen this model was $879 Cyber Monday week. I'd say this is a good price and BB has a 30-day price match so if it goes down further they'll refund the difference. Been thinking about getting an extended warranty also, but not from BB. There was another company that was a lot cheaper but I can't remember the name right now. Will post back later with the company name and see if anyone has any experience with them.

Can someone post a good calibration for the standard setting for regular tv viewing/no movies and sports?

I've got a 60" with a Sharp display. I don't have anything to compare it to but I would say the off-angle viewing is poor. When I was calibrating the brightness this weekend I noticed that moving off center either horizontally or vertically by just 10 degrees or so would change the calibration setting by several ticks. I think that means there is a lot of light bleed when viewed off-angle. There was also a noticable color shift when viewing a magenta test screen.

According to Chicolom the Samsung panels have better viewing angles, so if you can find one with a Txxx label it might perform better than mine. However 30 to 35 degrees seems quite a bit for an LED TV. Plasma might be better for your situation.

what those without a meter don't realize is that tweaking grayscale/white balance by eye isn't a reliable way of improving grayscale tracking/accuracy... you might get a result that appears more subjectively pleasing than the default w/b settings, but you won't know if you're actually making things less accurate/farther from the D65 whitepoint

those with a good meter (like an affordable spectro) know that being able to reliably/consistently improve grayscale by a eye alone is nothing more than wishful thinking

this might be difficult to believe/accept if someone does eyeball grayscale and is quite pleased with the result (but lacks a meter to verify their end results)... but that's how grayscale calibration works and why there is an entire market for colorimeters/spectroradiometers
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/28/13 at 2:13pm

also here are some good links about why copying settings isn't a good idea whether or not you have access to a meter/pro calibration

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1454715/ua40uh5000r#post_22890524
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/28/13 at 2:14pm

It's true that viewing angles could be better with these sets, and I'm speaking as someone who is "lucky" enough to have an actual Samsung panel. However it also bears repeating - many of the picture inconsistencies are mitigated (but not eliminated) by bringing backlight down from maximum. I was even toying with the idea of yet another calibration, trying to get my backlight down further to help avoid this issue, even if it's now much better than it was in the beginning of my ownership. There is a potential downside to this though I think, which is possibly the settings which compensate the lower backlight making the overall PQ less vibrant. My tastes in settings have progressed though, so it could work out.

how can you really be sure without measuring the end result with a good meter and then comparing the measurements to those taken with the default w/b settings?

read through various pages.....have narrowed down that the issue is with the TV, am thinking of exchanging/returning it. would any one disagree?
Can anyone with similar 40 TV confirm if they dont see any bleeding?

It looks better than default. Much better. If you check my settings (linked in my signature) you'll see that they're nothing radical.

The point you made is valid, but my point is also valid, which is that one can plainly see what neutral gray is if you take the time to see what it ISN'T (although everyone sees colors differently, to be sure). This is easily achieved with the technique I described.

Now maybe I'm better prepared for this because I have a visual arts background, I dunno, but I think anyone with patience and some visual sensitivity can see what looks more and less neutral on the RGB wavelengths by pressing the sliders too far in one direction or another.

It's true what you say that it may not be mathematically correct and other settings may need to compensate, but I'm pretty confident my set looks better than it ever has. My impression of the picture when I put it back on Movie/Warm2 default is that there is too much red, and way too much blue in it. The difference in the whites isn't subtle at all, and all the colors are much more well balanced now. That's all I can really volunteer about it.

Metering is better, and for those who can afford it this is not a replacement, but it's standing me in damn good stead right now.

++1. . . .* Exactly right.* If you notice ANY color tint to B&W picture content you can correct a great deal of gray scale error. Don't let anyone tell you can not. If you can see color tint and make it better, it IS better. As you say, you do have to know what to look for and there are aids to help compare gray scale on the TV to a known visual standard.

But removal of ANY tint in B&W images is better than just leaving the TV set a Warm 1 Or Warm 2. Sadly, there are those here on AVS that want to make it sound as though only a pro or using a meter should ever touch gray scale. Correcting gray scale used to be done entirely by eye and was know as "Purity" adjustment. Plus, any changes to white balance by a pure visual method can always be reset to the original default setting.
Edited by Phase700B - 1/28/13 at 4:52pm

+ 1 Again, correcting gray scale as you have is better than leaving ANY visible error in gray scale (White Balance). The idea that you do not use a meter and may be making the white balance "worse" is speculation. Sad that this has become a dogma here on AVS.

+1 Here also. Certainly a meter that is accurate and known to be in calibration and used by an experieinced technician would be preferable. And if White Balance is off enough to be seen then it is ALREADY tracking incorrectly. And, the visual method of Purity ( White Balance or gray scale) adjustment has been used for years before there ever were colorimeters and spectros. Not to mention, many meters drift over time and you still won't know if your white balance is spot on. Do a search on Meter Drift here on AVS for those horror stories let alone, the botched calibrations some have paid for.
Edited by Phase700B - 1/28/13 at 5:11pm

The bottom corners look unusually bright. I think the rest of the screen is normal/acceptable though. Still, I think exchanging might be a good idea since the bottom corners look like they may be bleeding through a little too much.

Hopefully your aware that you've got the room too dark (pitch black) and the backlight set to high, which is the worst case scenario for screen uniformity. I assume you set it that way just to test it out of curiosity, but you shouldn't be watching anything that way.

Ideally you will have enough ambient light in the room (and matched with a better backlight setting) that minor non-uniformity issues on a black screen won't be visible anyways. If I turn off every light and max out my backlight, I can see it's not perfectly uniform, but under normal viewing conditions (which for me includes some bias lighting) it does look uniform, as any minor uniformity issues have fallen out of the visible dynamic range of my eyes. 99% of the time the screen looks dark and uniform, as it should.