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Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 64

post #1891 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

Yet another example is the white clipping pattern on the AVS disc. If the background is lacking in red, the flashing bars appear red to our eyes. However, a meter will prove that the bars are neutral gray and the background is discolored.

Wow, yes. This is exactly what I experienced. On that screen on the upper end the flashing bars had an orangish look to them as they flashed. I can raise or lower the contrast and turn them gray but I like the setting for contrast at 87 that has them flashing orangish.

On another point, laugh if you want but I am also a fan of adjusting things based on sports teams. For example I know what Liverpool red looks like so I make my display show the color correctly. Just like I know what Tarheel blue looks like, ole miss red, vols orange, steeler yellow, jets green, and on and on and on.

Now this of course is based off using the truest camera during the broadcast.
I am sure we have all seen a sports telecast where one or two cameras are not white balanced like the others and the look of the kits or uniforms is clearly off when viewed through those lenses.
post #1892 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall110 View Post

Totally agree. I'm not saying one is better than the other. I just thought I was getting something that was the same as the EH6000. It's slightly different according to the specs. I was dead set happy with my first EH6050 if it weren't for the bleeding that kept me thinking this wasn't normal for this back lit LED model. The screen is uniform across the entire screen except for a substantial flashlight in the lower left corner. Not noticeable during regular viewing in a well lit room. Only slightly in the darkest of dark scenes. When the room gets dim though, it's noticeable, even with turning the back light to 6 or 8. Unless the third set is completely uniform as most people state that theirs is, I'll be keeping the 1st set.

The stand does have a reddish tint to it which is very similar to the touch of color shading of earlier Samsung LCDs but darker. It looks black unless you're up close.

Well that's what I'm saying right there. I think the slight differences in the specs might not reflect an actual difference in the TV. I could be wrong, but I suspect that it is, in fact, the exact same TV and that they just change the specs a little bit so that they can justify selling the TVs to Costco at a lower MSRP.

That fact that you had some uniformity issues does not mean that you got an inferior model of television. It seems that uniformity problems exist in all LCD TVs and the extent of the issue varies from set to set. The backlit TVs are better than the edgelits but still not totally immune.
post #1893 of 2546
Just looking for a general consensus on this TV rather than trying to get thru 60+ pages. I'm trying to replace a 2006 Sony RPTV for our basement. Primarily being used for gaming. Bought a Panasonic plasma (still in box) since the price was too hard to pass up, but rethinking that I should've gone with a LCD for my personal situation.

This TV fits within our price range and don't need all sorts of bloatware on the set. Need a solid, good performance TV as we're not videophiles, just average Joe gamers and watchers. Would this TV fit the criteria well?
post #1894 of 2546
came across this app - THX Tune-up iOS app - Free (for 1 week only)
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/id592624594?mt=8


THX tune-up (TM) allows you to properly adjust your TV, projector and speakers, helping you get the most out of your entertainment system. THX tune-up features custom video test patterns, carefully selected photos and tutorials to help you adjust and confirm the best picture settings on your display based on your room lighting. Using special test sounds, THX tune-up also lets you check your external speakers to make sure they are working in phase and are connected properly for 2-channel stereo or 5.1 surround sound systems.

THX tune-up is completely interactive and you will be able to go through it at your own pace and in any order. Use your iPad 2 (or later) or iPhone 4 (or later) to connect to your display or sound system with an AppleTM Digital AV Adapter and HDMI cable or through a wireless Apple TV.

To get started, locate the adjustment buttons on your television and audio video receiver (AVR) remote controls and then simply follow the THX app tutorials which will walk you through your “THX tune-up.” The app offers tips about your remote control, room lighting, viewing distance and other helpful advice.

Video adjustments
• Aspect ratio – ensure your TV displays shapes and sizes correctly
• Brightness – make certain shadow details and night scenes are clearly visible
• Contrast – confirm white detail is distinct on your television
• Color – make sure colors are bright and vibrant but not cartoonish
• Tint – check skin tones look natural and are not too green or red

THX tune-up uses your iPad or iPhone camera to set color and tint with a special built in color filter. Just point your device camera at the TV screen and see if your color or tint is adjusted correctly.

Audio adjustments
• Speaker assignment – ensure speakers are connected to the correct AVR output and intended sound is coming from the correct speaker
• Speaker phase – confirm that positive and negative speaker wires are connected correctly and all speakers are in phase

Extras
• Turn “moo can” on and tilt the iPhone or iPad to hear your device “moo”
• Play extraordinary THX trailers (just like the ones in THX Certified cinemas) to show off your newly tuned TV and sound system to friends and family
• Show off your audio system with the push of a button by playing “THX Deep Note” in 5.1 surround sound, just like in the theater
• Have a question for THX, or just want to provide feedback? Ask Tex!
post #1895 of 2546
Hey all.

I'm looking to upgrade my TV here in the next few weeks and I am considering the EH6000. I am upgrading from a 26" LG LV2500 720p LED that I have had for about a year now, and it has terrible backlight clouding issues. The reds are also way too red if you understand what I'm saying.

I'm looking for a TV to use mainly for gaming (PS3) and HD satellite with the occasional Blu-ray. I have been trying to decide between the 40" EH6000 LED and the 51" E550 plasma.

Both are within my price range, and I just can't decide whether I should stick with LED or move to plasma. What do you guys think?
post #1896 of 2546
airride,

Excellent! Thanks for the heads up on that app.
post #1897 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkacklover View Post

On another point, laugh if you want but I am also a fan of adjusting things based on sports teams. For example I know what Liverpool red looks like so I make my display show the color correctly. Just like I know what Tarheel blue looks like, ole miss red, vols orange, steeler yellow, jets green, and on and on and on.

Now this of course is based off using the truest camera during the broadcast.
I am sure we have all seen a sports telecast where one or two cameras are not white balanced like the others and the look of the kits or uniforms is clearly off when viewed through those lenses.

There are probably at least a dozen reasons why that's not a good idea. You could post an inquiry in the display calibration sub-forum if you wanted to know the exact reasons why. I'm sure the experts (pro calibrators and such) would be happy to explain why such an approach would not work very well at all.

The problem with a lot of the 'calibration' advice in this thread is that the people providing it are not experts nor do they have a reliable meter like a spectro to verify their methods. If you don't know why a certain approach is wrong (have no meter to prove it), it's hard to believe why something that looks subjectively better is actually not what it seems to be.
post #1898 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkacklover View Post

On another point, laugh if you want but I am also a fan of adjusting things based on sports teams. For example I know what Liverpool red looks like so I make my display show the color correctly. Just like I know what Tarheel blue looks like, ole miss red, vols orange, steeler yellow, jets green, and on and on and on.

I can see why you would use your sports teams to make your TV settings, but using AVS HD709 would really be better. As you have found, all the cameras and even lighting angles could throw colors off. That;s why adjusting white balance with the AVS HD709 disc or Disney WOW even by eye would be better for ALL lighting conditions and no matter what camera a sports event happened to use.

I have compared both what was thought of as "good" meters profiled with a known good spectro that I borrowed, with results obtained by visual adjustment using the AVS HD709 disc, and the spectro verified that the visually corrected white balance was closer to CIE standards than just some "default" setting. The known good spectro verified that visual unmetered white balance adjust did correct and get while balance/gray scale much closer to the desirable CIE standards. The fact that there should even be a question about a pricey colorimeter should be suspect enough as to accuracy and reliability. Yet, that sadly sometimes is the case.

Sometimes self defined experts or other TV owners on the forum like to assume that someone else had bad meters or did not know what they were doing, in order to validate their own opinion. Mostly, some with meters just need to validate spending all the money they have on several meters before getting a "good" one, not to mention paying for a calibration that may have actually made the TV picture quality worse. It has happened.

The trouble is, those with meters or other agendas may mean well, but seem to go a bit overboard alarming TV owners about accuracy, not to standards, not scientific, etc; if obvious color tint in white balance is eliminated by eye. Certainly, any USER control in the user menu is just that.
Edited by Phase700B - 1/30/13 at 5:25pm
post #1899 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by airride View Post

came across this app - THX Tune-up iOS app - Free (for 1 week only)
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/id592624594?mt=8


It was posted to the App Store yesterday and will be a free download until Feb. 4th, after that , it will be a whopping $1.99.

I was playing around with it last night and it works fairly well using AirPlay from an iOS device via AppleTV2 or 3. I was using my iPhone 5 to test it out. To get the most out of the app, audio 5.1 setup for example, you need to connect it to your tv via a Lightning Port to HDMI cable or a Thunderbolt (MDP) to HDMI cable. For a quick check on your basic settings, it's kinda cool. It should be out for Android devices in a couple of months.
post #1900 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwener View Post

I highly doubt Samsung intentionally manufactures a slightly inferior TV just for Costco. Could be wrong though.

I agree. It wouldn't be cost effective for Samsung to run two different assembly lines for the same TV, but one with slightly inferior components. It is less complicated and most cost effective to manufacture one set with the same hardware, and just stamp two different model numbers on them. And maybe just add the dark rose colored stand on the Costco model for good measure.

I have a 60EH6050 with HS01 panel from Costco. The screen is not completely uniform, there is minor clouding. But I can't notice it during dark scenes on movies. It is barely noticable during movie credits but it doesn't bother me. The off angle performance could be better, but we don't watch it off angle. I've haven't seen purple ghosting. But my 90 return policy will expire soon, so I should stop looking for it. In fact, I will probably be better off if I stop reading this forum. Over all I'm very happy with this set. After paying $1049, I really don't want to find a reason to return it.
Edited by photogold - 1/30/13 at 2:38pm
post #1901 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

It was posted to the App Store yesterday and will be a free download until Feb. 4th, after that , it will be a whopping $1.99.

I was playing around with it last night and it works fairly well using AirPlay from an iOS device via AppleTV2 or 3. I was using my iPhone 5 to test it out. To get the most out of the app, audio 5.1 setup for example, you need to connect it to your tv via a Lightning Port to HDMI cable or a Thunderbolt (MDP) to HDMI cable. For a quick check on your basic settings, it's kinda cool. It should be out for Android devices in a couple of months.

Thanks for the info Otto! Now I can borrow my wife's iPad and use it for something! I just have to check and see if I have a calbe to hook it up using the HDMI port.
post #1902 of 2546
Can anyone recommend or point me in the direction on what setting i should use if i only connect this TV to my laptop? right now all is set standard. it's at work, and was bought and setup by someone other than me. trying to figure out if they did it via HDMI or another connection.
post #1903 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by photogold View Post

I agree. It wouldn't be cost effective for Samsung to run two different assembly lines for the same TV, but one with slightly inferior components. It is less complicated and most cost effective to manufacture one set with the same hardware, and just stamp two different model numbers on them. And maybe just add the dark rose colored stand on the Costco model for good measure.

I have a 60EH6050 with HS01 panel from Costco. The screen is not completely uniform, there is minor clouding. But I can't notice it during dark scenes on movies. It is barely noticable during movie credits but it doesn't bother me. The off angle performance could be better, but we don't watch it off angle. I've haven't seen purple ghosting. But my 90 return policy will expire soon, so I should stop looking for it. In fact, I will probably be better off if I stop reading this forum. Over all I'm very happy with this set. After paying $1049, I really don't want to find a reason to return it.

Samsung has done this and currently is doing this with the EH6003 line that was the Black Friday unit at BestBuy that has been stated in this thread to use cheaper parts and is inferior to the EH6000. The ratings on the EH6003 point to this as well. All of my local BestBuy's have plenty of the EH6003 in stock but zero EH6000s after I bought the last one yesterday. If my second EH6050 didn't have the panel wrinkle, oh I would love to keep this set. Very minor clouding that is barely visible compared to the first set's lower left corner flashlight. It is just beautiful and oddly the wrinkle bothers me less than the clouding as you can't even notice it unless a solid background is displayed or if you're viewing off center but this is a defect that will only get worse in time and on top of that the top right hand corner has a crack in the frame.

100% agree, if you're happy with it, stop looking for issues and enjoy, I know I would be if I didn't have that darn wrinkle, oh well.
post #1904 of 2546
One thing for anyone who likes to shoot video of the TV images. I like to record well shot/framed golf swings into an app I have on my iPad. I do the same thing with baseball swings.

You have to turn on led motion. If you don't the video "oscillates" (scan lines can be seen) when viewed through the iPad camera. Is this an hz sync issue?

The screen will darken when you use led motion so you will have to bring up some of your settings to adjust for it. Just a touch of brightness and backlight will get it back to what it looked like when off.


Edit: I have been thinking about this and now I wonder...if the Ipad (3) shoots 1080p at 30fps and my TV is humming along showing 1080i content why am I seeing lines with LED motion off?

My 5 year old Sony A10 only went to 720p and I never saw scan lines when shooting video off of the Golf Channel.

Hmmmm...I need to test this by shifting/restricting it to 720p.

If 720p is running at 60fps...wait a minute (sorry for sussing this out in the thread! smile.gif ) I am not seeing any sync issue, what is happening is I am actually capturing the de-interlacing when shooting video with the iPad. So I can turn off LED Motion and just make my cable box display everything in 720p and the video will look clean again.
Edited by blkacklover - 1/31/13 at 7:51am
post #1905 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall110 View Post

Samsung has done this and currently is doing this with the EH6003 line that was the Black Friday unit at BestBuy that has been stated in this thread to use cheaper parts and is inferior to the EH6000.

Yes several posts have "speculated" that Samsung may use "inferior" components on the BB BF model, I think it was actually an EH6001. But nobody has proof, or a source that this is true.

I'm an electrical engineer at a major electronics company, and from my perspective, Samsung would't have anything to gain by doing this. Our company buys 99% of our components, and we have standards that our vendors must meet. Many of the lower cost vendors actually have better performace. But the bottom line, if they don't meet our standards, then the vendor is disqualified. We make no compromises. Either the components are good enough to use on any and all of our products, or they are not used at all.

There would be significant added cost associated with doing two separate assembly lines for the same model. One with "standard" components, one with "cheap" components. A company would also expect a cost impact from increased returns under warranty, and damage to their reputation. That just doesn't make sense. On the other hand, it may make sense to give products with different model numbers to Costco and BB. Preventing other stores from price matching helps sales for Costco and BB, and maintains the retail price level for the EH6000 which is good for Samsung, and good for smaller stores which can't compete with the high volume sales from the Super Big Box stores.

Best Buy and Costco: "Hey, we want to buy a ton of these from you, but we want to be able to sell them cheap."
Samsung: "That's fine, but if you sell them cheap, we'll need to give you a different model number."

No I don't have proof. Yes I'm also speculating.
Edited by photogold - 1/31/13 at 11:26am
post #1906 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall110 View Post

Samsung has done this and currently is doing this with the EH6003 line that was the Black Friday unit at BestBuy that has been stated in this thread to use cheaper parts and is inferior to the EH6000.

The other "Black Friday" unit sold at BB in 2012 was the 6001, of which I am a happy owner (UN55EH6001FXZA). It has the A-MVA panel from AU Optronics (AH01). Viewing angles are not quite as good as the S-PVA panels (or so I've read) but screen uniformity and colors are excellent. I very closely followed the discussion in this thread about "cheap/inferior" in the days after those sets came out.

I can't comment on the 6003 but I did have a very lengthy conversation on this topic with the fellow at my company (I work for a telecommunications equipment manufacturer) who oversees our supply chain. Samsung is one of our suppliers as it turns out. His opinion, which is based on years of dealing with components and component manufacturers, is that although components will sometimes differ from panel to panel for whatever reason, any panel that leaves the factory with a Samsung logo on it is manufactured and tested to a rigorous set of specifications, whether the unit is sold on Black Friday or any other time of year. Given the value and quality associated with the Samsung brand, this makes sense to me. To be sure, there were cost-cutting measures (such as the non-backlit remote and lack of component inputs) that applied to these specially manufactured models, but one thing they do NOT compromise on, at least not intentionally, is picture quality. Samsung can simply not afford to put out a crappy product in a highly competitive market in which they are a leader. It would be business suicide for them to do so. The Black Friday models are made specifically to help retailers avoid getting into price matching wars as prices are already scrape-the-bottom low during that intensely competitive season.

As for user reviews, you can pretty much take those with a grain of salt, and probably a shot of tequila while you're at it. tongue.gif The user reviews for the 6001 were nearly as good as those of the 6000 as I recall.

For a time, it seems all EH6000s were made using the Samsung S-PVA panels (version TSxx or THxx) which are apparently a little better than the AUO panels, but then again the 6000 was selling for $200 more than the 6001 at the time I made my purchase. Lately, however, the 55" version of the 6000 has been manufactured with Chi Mei (CHxx) panels and maybe one or two others. I think the smaller sizes might still be using Samsung panels. One of the panel experts on this thread might want to weigh in on this.

In any case, you'd have a hard time convincing me that for $799, I got an "inferior" television when spec-for-spec and feature-for-feature, the 55" 6001 and the current version of the 55" 6000, are identical, at least in terms of video capabilities. All's I know is that my TV looks awesome.

Final thought - I recently engaged with a professional THX calibrator, asking him if it was "worth it" to have my set calibrated by him (I only went through the basic settings on the AVS HD709 disc). I explained to him that what I have is, essentially, a "bargain basement" Samsung LED along with all the details. His response was A) he is intimately familiar with my TV and B) he thinks that with a proper calibration, my set could end up "outperforming even some higher-end plasma sets." Now perhaps he was blowing smoke up my you-know-what in order to score the gig, but based on his reputation, I'm willing to give it a shot. Will be happy to share the results on this thread once I have them. Should be sometime in March.
post #1907 of 2546
And no, photogold and I did not conspire on our respective posts wink.gif
post #1908 of 2546
Just picked up the 55" version with a TH02 panel so I guess I was kinda lucky. Can someone point me in the direction of what they consider a good calibration settings post, there are ton throughout this thread I am downright confused.

I have a decent sized room with pretty good natural lighting.

Thanks in advance
post #1909 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by davehendu View Post

Just picked up the 55" version with a TH02 panel so I guess I was kinda lucky. Can someone point me in the direction of what they consider a good calibration settings post, there are ton throughout this thread I am downright confused.

I have a decent sized room with pretty good natural lighting.

Thanks in advance

Actually, your best first step would be to down load and burn the *Free* AVS HD709 disc here on AVS. You would want the AVCHD .exe file and it should be burned onto a regular DVR-R with a program like ISOburner which is also free on the net. The disc burns in a DVD but plays only on a Blu-ray player since it is in AVCHD format.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration


Otherwise, you can also look for a DVD or Blu-ray you may have that has a THX set up menu. Some Disney movies and others also may have that.

You first should set back light to a fairly low level (owners seem to use as low as 8 on up to perhaps 25 or so). Then set Brightness and Contrast. Then set color. Most use the Warm 1 or Warm 2 default setting as a starting point. It would be good to do just these basic things first and let the TV warm up a good 30 minutes before doing settings. Get familiar with your TV controls. You are whooped now about your new TV , but there is no fast and quick way to get the best settings and each TV differs even in the same model line.
Edited by Phase700B - 1/31/13 at 4:48pm
post #1910 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by davehendu View Post

Just picked up the 55" version with a TH02 panel so I guess I was kinda lucky. Can someone point me in the direction of what they consider a good calibration settings post, there are ton throughout this thread I am downright confused.

I have a decent sized room with pretty good natural lighting.

Thanks in advance

davehendu,
Agree with Phase700B that you should try the AVS HD 709 disc. I was new to all this calibration stuff also but most of the settings aren't as complicated as it sounds so give it a try. Only problem is that you'll need a blue filter to adjust color and tint. I think you can order one at THX online. Mine came with the Disney WOW HDTV calibration disc that I ordered from Amazon for around $20 so you can go that way also.

Until then here's my suggestion to get you started. Make sure you choose either Standard or Movie mode. Many people choose Movie mode since it disables the auto-dimming feature that some dislike. My room is moderately lit like yours so try backlight at 12 but adjust it to your taste if it looks too bright or dim. From what I remember contrast, brightness, color, and tint default settings were fairly close to my final calibrated settings so you can try leaving them as is for now. Can't remember the default sharpness setting but you should try and keep it between 0-10.

Going to the Advance Settings here's what most people recommend.
- color space: auto
- white balance: leave as is for now
- gamma: -1 but you can adjust this to your taste. Lower will give more saturated colors but picture may be too dim. Higher will give brighter picture but colors may wash out.
- dynamic contrast: off
- black tone: off
- flesh tone: off
- motion lighting: off

Going to Picture Options
- color tone: warm 1 or 2 to your taste
- size: screen fit (For cable make sure you set your cable box to output 720p and/or 1080i signals and 16:9 screen size.)
- digital noise filter: off
- HDMI black level: greyed out on normal on my set
- film mode off
- auto motion plus: off, clear, or custom blur 10 judder 0 (Kind of depends on what you're watching and personel preference. I have a hard time seeing any difference.)
- LED motion plus: off

Again this is just a suggested starting point. Feel free to adjust different settings so you can see what they do to the picture and select what looks right to you until you are ready to do your own calibration. Also, each input source will have to be set up seperately. So if you have cable on one HDMI, Blu Ray on another HDMI, VCR on AV Device, etc. you'll have to input the settings above for each of these sources. Good luck and I hope your enjoy your new set.

If others see any obvious mistakes feel free to comment. Not at home so I posted these settings from memory.
post #1911 of 2546
^ ^ ^ Those look like good starter settings and good advice, including some latitude in some areas since room lighting and preference are variables. Good suggestion for the blue filter in the Disney WOW disc also. It's nice to have that along with the AVS HD709 disc as well.

The only thing I would ad is to make the settings and live with them for at least 5 or 6 days or longer and get used to the picture and also let the TV settle in a bit. Also, the TV should be on a minimum of 30 minutes before any settings are changed and new adjustments made.
post #1912 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

^ ^ ^ Those look like good starter settings and good advice, including some latitude in some areas since room lighting and preference are variables. Good suggestion for the blue filter in the Disney WOW disc also. It's nice to have that along with the AVS HD709 disc as well.

The only thing I would ad is to make the settings and live with them for at least 5 or 6 days or longer and get used to the picture and also let the TV settle in a bit. Also, the TV should be on a minimum of 30 minutes before any settings are changed and new adjustments made.

I wouldn't have known where to start either without all the informative posts and friendly advice I found in this forum. It's been a great learning experience.
post #1913 of 2546
What's your assessment of auto motion plus in the 2012/2013 samsung tv's? I have demo'ed vizio's frame interpolation and while the picture looked much clearer than without, the motion of people moving on screen looked very artificial. It looked like CGI animation, as if people were floating, rather than walking. It looked very strange.

Does samsung do a better job with it's frame interpolation models?
post #1914 of 2546
Are the Geek Squad from Best Buy considered "professional calibrators"? They offer free calibrations for Premium Reward Zone members.
post #1915 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by lm 808 View Post

davehendu,
Agree with Phase700B that you should try the AVS HD 709 disc. I was new to all this calibration stuff also but most of the settings aren't as complicated as it sounds so give it a try. Only problem is that you'll need a blue filter to adjust color and tint. I think you can order one at THX online. Mine came with the Disney WOW HDTV calibration disc that I ordered from Amazon for around $20 so you can go that way also.

Until then here's my suggestion to get you started. Make sure you choose either Standard or Movie mode. Many people choose Movie mode since it disables the auto-dimming feature that some dislike. My room is moderately lit like yours so try backlight at 12 but adjust it to your taste if it looks too bright or dim. From what I remember contrast, brightness, color, and tint default settings were fairly close to my final calibrated settings so you can try leaving them as is for now. Can't remember the default sharpness setting but you should try and keep it between 0-10.

Going to the Advance Settings here's what most people recommend.
- color space: auto
- white balance: leave as is for now
- gamma: -1 but you can adjust this to your taste. Lower will give more saturated colors but picture may be too dim. Higher will give brighter picture but colors may wash out.
- dynamic contrast: off
- black tone: off
- flesh tone: off
- motion lighting: off

Going to Picture Options
- color tone: warm 1 or 2 to your taste
- size: screen fit (For cable make sure you set your cable box to output 720p and/or 1080i signals and 16:9 screen size.)
- digital noise filter: off
- HDMI black level: greyed out on normal on my set
- film mode off
- auto motion plus: off, clear, or custom blur 10 judder 0 (Kind of depends on what you're watching and personel preference. I have a hard time seeing any difference.)
- LED motion plus: off

Again this is just a suggested starting point. Feel free to adjust different settings so you can see what they do to the picture and select what looks right to you until you are ready to do your own calibration. Also, each input source will have to be set up seperately. So if you have cable on one HDMI, Blu Ray on another HDMI, VCR on AV Device, etc. you'll have to input the settings above for each of these sources. Good luck and I hope your enjoy your new set.

If others see any obvious mistakes feel free to comment. Not at home so I posted these settings from memory.

I have similar settings to above and did some calibration as well, but am still not happy with the picture when the picture moves quick, like a hockey game. I thought the Auto Motion Plus setting would help me out there, buth just like you I can't see much of a difference. Any advice you can give me on getting this part right? I almost feel like I have overlooked one setting, as the picture is giving me a headache when watching hockey.

Nobody else have this issue?
post #1916 of 2546
You can try and make sure you are not in "Movie mode". . . Try Standard then then play with Auto Motion settings.

Also, you don't say what your signal source is. If it's cable, many time the cable box will be outputting a frame rate or resolution not matching what your TV is set at.
post #1917 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpatrick View Post

Are the Geek Squad from Best Buy considered "professional calibrators"? They offer free calibrations for Premium Reward Zone members.


It's kind of a *wild card* with GS calibrations. It depends on the skill and experience (and interest) of the GS tech you happen to get. Every now and then here on AVS, we will read that a new TV owner is happy with what GS has done for their TV calibration. More often. . . . not so much.

But on this TV. . about the only critical settings are the RGB white balance. Plus. . if you do not like the results you can always reset the TV to default and start over on your own from scratch.
post #1918 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmpatrick View Post

Are the Geek Squad from Best Buy considered "professional calibrators"? They offer free calibrations for Premium Reward Zone members.

They are supposedly ISF-certified, but I've read mixed reviews, even when the service was performed for free. Geek Squad typically charge $250 for a calibration. The higher-end pro calibrators, who pretty much do it full-time, touring throughout various regions, charge $100-$150 more than that! So getting a calibration for free seems like a bargain. At worst they'll mess it up in some way and you can always revert back to the basic settings you started with. At best, you will have saved a boatload of money and have an optimized picture to boot! In any case, can you please report back the results? I am having one of the more expensive ones done sometime in March and plan to issue a report to this thread on that experience. I think it would benefit this thread to see how it went with Geek Squad and also with the higher-end service and how they compare. That sort of anecdotal comparison is a little tough to come by. rolleyes.gif
post #1919 of 2546
Only way I would let a BB geek squad touch my tv even if it was free is if I had a set like a vt50 that required certain modes like ISF day and night to be unlocked and would not let them touch anything else... otherwise for every good experience someone posts, there is an equally bad one as well.
post #1920 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

They are supposedly ISF-certified, but I've read mixed reviews, even when the service was performed for free. Geek Squad typically charge $250 for a calibration. The higher-end pro calibrators, who pretty much do it full-time, touring throughout various regions, charge $100-$150 more than that! So getting a calibration for free seems like a bargain. At worst they'll mess it up in some way and you can always revert back to the basic settings you started with. At best, you will have saved a boatload of money and have an optimized picture to boot! In any case, can you please report back the results? I am having one of the more expensive ones done sometime in March and plan to issue a report to this thread on that experience. I think it would benefit this thread to see how it went with Geek Squad and also with the higher-end service and how they compare. That sort of anecdotal comparison is a little tough to come by. rolleyes.gif

I would be interested in hearing how your calibration turns out and compares to what you were able to get using AVS HD709. . . assuming that you know what to look for in making TV settings. No offense meant there. . . . it's just that most people I know can not or will not do much with TV settings. They have no clue and if anything, just fiddle with the controls sort of following a proper procedure. . and then fiddle some more randomly until they think its great.rolleyes.gif

Just sayin' . . .. . smile.gif
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