Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 65

So, Phase700B (and possibly others) - do you think getting a pro calibration is overkill for this TV given the limited range of settings? I've asked this question before and also asked it of the calibrator (Gregg Loewen) I'm using but I've never heard anyone say it was not worth the money. Setting the RGB whites, gamma, etc. and even the backlight level correctly for a given room require having the right equipment and software + the knowledge, skill and patience to use them correctly. Numerous people on this thread and others have stated that these settings are NOT the kind of thing you can simply eyeball. I decided - rather than invest the time and money in acquiring the right tools and skills, etc. - to just pay someone who will do it right the first time and will also spend the time to educate me as he does so. I do feel like it'll be worth it knowing I'll be getting the TV's full potential.

I'm with ya. No offense taken I went through AVS HD709 a few times and feel like my basics (black, white, color, tint) are sound. That's the stuff any owner of this type of TV oughta be able to do with a free disc and a cheap set of blue filter glasses from THX (no blue mode on my model). It's the other stuff you mentioned that I'd really rather not just "fiddle" with and that I think will make a difference in the overall viewing experience. I've experimented with the AMP settings, color modes, etc. but not the RGB whites because from what I understand, those should be set with the assistance of a colorimeter (and its software).

Speaking of which, I also did set up the Eco Sensor based on an earlier discussion here but was then advised (emphatically I might add) by my calibrator not to use it. I think his plan is to set me up with a couple of different viewing modes, one for daytime viewing and one for night,

To sum it up, I am still somewhat clueless, but I'm also very inquisitive and methodical in how I approach a problem. And I know enough to know what I don't know. But I do know that this TV, which is already doing pretty well, can probably do better. And that's why I'm willing to spend the money on having the calibration done.

I'm not trying to convince anybody of anything. I'm just stating that there is a difference. This is a fact. Is there a noticeable difference? Nobody knows at this point. If you're happy with the set, than what does it matter? The information is relevant to those looking to buy one of these sets. The overwhelmingly glowing reviews from real users is what drew me to the EH6000. If my first UN60EH6050 didn't have an enormous flashlight that is still visible under Movie mode with back light set to 0, or if my second 6050 didn't have the panel wrinkle, I would be more than happy to keep the set and wouldn't care about the difference after the fact with Costco's 2 year warranty and 90 day return policy (but what sucks is that they charge you tax based on the $1800+ retail value).

To state that it is improbable that these sets with different variation of model numbers to be of lesser quality because of the unlikelihood of different components is silly when you consider that within the exact model line of the EH6000 (or EH6050, EH6001, EH6003 take your pick) there is a difference between an EH6000 with a TSXX panel and an EH6000 with a CH01 panel. If I was in Costco getting a 55" EH6050, you better believe I would snag the TSXX. Matter of fact, I did glance while I was there, and most of the 55" were CH01 panels, but they did have 2 TS02 panels in that size. As far as I know, the 60" only comes in the HS01 Sharp panel.

Hello everyone, I'm happily upgrading my Mom's current TV (Samsung LNS 4095) to a UN50EH6000! I know that some of the online "professional reviewers" have said that this set does not have the best picture, mainly critiquing its performance in the blacks. Would most people on here say that the black performance is an upgrade from the LNS 4095? How about the overall picture performance of this new set compared to my parents current TV? She is by no means nitpicky over the finer points of high-end picture quality, I just want her to be able to see something that's very sharp with good color. Is it fair to say that people on here have come up with user settings that perhaps iron out some of the issues that other reviewers have seen? I just don't want to buy TV that is going to be worse in picture quality compared to what her current TV shows.

I am making this decision rather last minute to take advantage of some of the sales this week before the Super Bowl, so I'm reading as many of the posts as I can in this thread but there is no way I will be get through them all by tonight.

A common comment I also read from reviewers was that "for the money" other TVs have better picture quality. If this is true, does anybody have any suggestions in the 50" (or a bit bigger) range at the $800 - $950 price point that actually are better quality? She has no interest in smart TV features, the main sources coming in will be a Blu-ray player and a HD cable feed.

Thanks for any input you might give!

Ron

I'd be interested to see how your pro calibration goes (would be nice if you could post before and after calibration charts/data/settings to see just how of a difference was made, both objectively/on paper and subjectively/visually). Given that a used i1pro spectro goes for $250 to $450 and is basically the cheapest meter you'd want if you were doing the calibration yourself, that's the minimum you'd need to spend to get the result you want. Since a pro calibration is in that price range too (though closer to $450 than $250 if you avoid BB), either approach is equally expensive if you just want a single calibration once.

Regarding the calibration potential of this set, it has no 10-pt white balance/gamma controls nor any 3D CMS, both of which are found on the pricier edgelit ES models. However, it doesn't really need more than 2-pt white balance and gamma presets (since grayscale/gamma both track very linear/flat and gamut is pretty accurate on these sets), which it has and even the basic settings like backlight, contrast, color, and tint are best set with a meter.

I hooked up a Wii U to my UN46EH6030 today via Component (running at 1080p) and got this weird kind of ghosting effect on text and lines/shapes. Is this normal? If not, what could be the source of the issue?



This is the first time I used the Component input on this TV and when I hook the Wii U up via HDMI (also at 1080p), the ghosting effect is gone.

The 2012 EH6000 series ( and EH5000 series) are thicker because they are Direct Lit (limited) full array back lighted TVs. The array of individual LEDs and the diffuser screen needed to even out the light take up a bit of room. Samsung essentially took the previous years CCFL TVs and updated them to limited full array back lighting rather than the florescent tubes previously used. And, overall, they did a great job. Their are other improvement witht the EH series over the D series also. Black levels are genrally better especially if you can get a TS01 or TS02 S-PVA panel. The reason prices are up a bit now is that the 2012 models were so good and now 2013 models will be replacing them. . . . and some may have less desirable LCD panels in them.

Also, be glad the TV is thicker. You will continue to read about flashlighting , bright spots along the edge and corners of the screen, and these are many times because the edge or bezel around the screen fails to provide adequate support. . .. but looks cool. And, the larger 50" and larger screen need all the support they can get. Basically, the thickness of an LCD screen is the same whether it is 40" or 70" and the bigger the heavier and more flex there is in the panel. So, any uneven support or pressure cause issues.
Edited by Phase700B - 2/2/13 at 5:20am

"Samsung essentially took the previous years CCFL TVs and updated them to limited full array back lighting rather than the florescent tubes previously used."

I'm sure that this is what you meant but to be sure of the record.

The 2011 Samsung Ds were edge lit led and the 2012 EH are direct lit led. Not sure how far back they used ccfl. Everything you stated is correct but the part above seemed a little confusing.

Actually, the Samsung D630 was CCFL IIRC and the EH6000 are more or less limited full array LED back lighted 2012 versions with reduced inputs and no Smart TV features.

http://reviews.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/samsung-lcd-tv/samsung-ln46d630.html
Edited by Phase700B - 2/2/13 at 6:54am

Sorry. Should have specified the 6000 series. Dont know anything about the d630. And I said the eh6000 is direct lit which is just another way of saying "limited full array led back lighted". I never heard it called that until I saw this thread. I assume the "limited" comes from the fact that they use far less led's than a true full array led. That's why they need the diffuser panel and they are thicker than a true full array led.

Exactly. Sorry here also. .. Samsung used the "D" designator too many times. Makes it easy to talk about the wrong things. But they did a nice job on the EH6000 series.

anyone know if there's any truth to this post (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1441251/un46eh6030-versus-un46es6003#post_22698869)

"EH="direct lit"=single horizontal row of leds behind the middle of the panel with diffuser. Less flashlighting than edge lit but so far the EH series don't use Samsung's high-end video processors so have fewer adjustments for white balance etc., and fewer HDMI ports. The EH appears to be an effort by Samsung to cut production costs and still be able to label a set as "led". Other mfgs are following suit. The lack of edge bleed is a big plus, imho. I'd rather have good basic performance with no edge bleed than silly bells/whistles like gesture control on a set plagued by edge bleed and clouding."

Just a few questions.. I am looking at the UN65EH6000 to replace my current Samsung LN52A750, and just curious as to anyone that has maybe seen mine , how they compare? Im guessing ( and hoping ) the PQ will be better just due to technology and it being a set thats 4 years newer.. The PQ "still" is great on my 750, not the ultra bright , ultra clear crisp image you will get on a new 8000 but still holds its own very well.. Im not sold on 3D yet, and I have a panasonic DMP-BDT220 which has more than enough apps for me, and this set @ around $1600 seems to be a great deal.. Not the greatest reviews from a technical side by the big reviewers, nor is it having the praise of the Panny ST and GT plasmas I was looking at, but a few things with the plasma kind of scared me away a little bit


Overall , once calibrated, how are you guys liking this set? The only one Im really comparing it to is the 70" Vizio and am starting to hear some issues about off axis viewing, buzzing, and uniformity.. But for the price is there much of anything else out there?

There is some truth to that.
Of course Samsung don't use their high end processors on the eh series. That should be obvious.
The eh is definitely an effort to cut production costs and still market it as an led. Thus fewer hdmi ports. Ccfl are on their way out altogether with all manufacturers. Its just old school and mixing ccfl and led cost more at this point. It is cheaper to just get rid of the ccfl, put a few leds in the back, come up with a new marketing term (direct lit) and sell it as an led that is superior to edge lit. The 46" eh has 400 leds in it compared to my 47" LG that is full led with local dimming that has 1500. So instead of doing it properly they came up with a cheesy diffuser panel to compensate. But they had to make it thicker to make it work. That's why the d6000 with ccfl and edge lit is thinner than the eh6000 direct lit. The eh series is a very basic budget oriented bottom of the line led. And in all fairness they do kind of market it that way. No Smart tv. No 3d. And if you get one that is not defective it gets a pretty good picture. Its not a bad value but dont make the mistake of thinking that you are buying some top of the line model because it says led on the box. That is what Samsung is banking on.
btw I got 3 bad 60eh6000s before I gave up on Samsung. That is why I know so much about it.
Then I got my Panasonic 60ST50 and it gets a better picture and has been trouble free from day one.
Sorry.

sorry, perhaps my post wasn't clear, but I was asking about the claim that there's only a single row of LEDs for the entire LCD panel... most posts about the EH series on this forum seem to suggest there would be several rows of LEDs, just like a CCFL-LCD has several rows of CCFL tubes

What problems did you have with the 60" 6000s. I've had mine for 2 weeks and like it so far. Just viewing angle is pretty limited.

anyone?

I don't know for sure but I find it very unlikely that they could make a single horizontal row of lights work.

The first one had a cracked screen. The second 2 had gray areas that wouldn't go away and ghosting issues. The gray areas I suspect because of uneven lighting.

I like my 60" so far. Colors and sharpness look good to me and it's plenty bright. Motion might be an issue but with the right AMP setting sports broadcasts are good for me. Uniformity on my set is good but others have posted about problems with theirs. Also, with the bigger screen, the slight darkening in the corners that everyone observes might be a little worse than on the smaller screens. Off axis viewing is very limited but I have a Sharp Hxxx panel which many say performs worse in this category than those with Samsung Txxx panels. I'd say, it's worth giving it a try especially if you can find one with a Txxx panel. Would never get a Vizio. Also don't have much confidence in lower end LG and Sharp models.

thanks! Yea I remember having to get ( or being told to get ) a SQ01 panel on my samsung a few yrs ago.. Is there a way to make sure you get a Txxx panel, especially if ordering online ?

Sounds like the panel lottery all over again. Specifying which panel you want is impossible online because the retailer will have what ever is in inventory pulled from the warehouse by somebody who isn't going to look for specific complete model numbers (if that's how Samsung does it) and go thru the boxes until the correct one is found. The ONLY way to get a specific panel is go to your local B&M and see what they have in stock. Otherwise, you could get lucky in the panel lottery if buying online.

Agree with Otto Pylot that you would have to check your local stores. You don't HAVE to get a Txxx panel but if off axis viewing is critical for your situation then you might get better results with it. I watch from about 10' away from the 60" Sharp, and if I move to the side 2' or stand up I see the picture start to wash out. Actually it was really noticable when I was calibrating the brighness setting. Bars that could not be seen straight on could be seen blinking when I moved to the side or when I stood up. I watch straight on so it's not a real big problem for me.

I imagine viewing angle becomes more important as the screen size increases... since the edges of the screen are farther away from the center of the screen/your viewing position. To be fair, even my S-PVA panel EH series doesn't have unlimited viewing angles like one might find on a plasma or even certain IPS panels... but it should beat the CMO made S-MVA panels in that regard by quite a bit and also because its blacks don't glow/washout/discolor off-axis as badly as other VA panel types do (specifically S-MVA but also A-MVA to an extent).

The only image issues I have with my 55" 6030 is when watching hockey. When the puck moves quickly from one end to the other I see very very faint vertical banding. This had me assuming the led lit screen was on vertical rows and I was seeing faint shadowing. But I read above that its horizontal led backlighting?

Either way, I picked up some nice hdmi cables from mono (gold, ferrite, interference chokes) to hook my ps3 and Xbox to my av receiver. I had another nice mono cable and ran it from the receiver to the Samsung (replaced a Verizon hdmi cable that was making that run) and the shadow issue above visibly lessened.

So much so that after viewing the TV for about 20 minutes I placed another order to replace all my hdmi cables on my other tv's.

Not sure if it will make as much difference on my other tv's as there is less wiring in general around their setups. Really didn't think the cable would make this much difference but I swear it does.

HDMI cables are supposedly all the same. This is an interesting issue to re-litigate but glad if you say it helped.

Congratulations. You probably just made this thread about 2 pages longer.

please read these:

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20056502-1/why-all-hdmi-cables-are-the-same/

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57321956-221/why-all-hdmi-cables-are-the-same-part-2/

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-33199_7-57540275-221/still-more-reasons-why-all-hdmi-cable-are-the-same/

and if you want to discuss this topic in more detail, this is the place for it:

http://www.avsforum.com/f/168/hdmi-q-a-the-one-connector-world

Who really cares? Find what HDMI cable works for you as a TV owner and leave it at that. Some like one brand, some consider others overkill in cost and real quality.

If a new cable seems to help, great! No one has to concur whether it does or not. Only those who are insecure in their understanding of things need to constantly validate beliefs.