or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 66

post #1951 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

There is some truth to that.
Of course Samsung don't use their high end processors on the eh series. That should be obvious.
The eh is definitely an effort to cut production costs and still market it as an led. Thus fewer hdmi ports. Ccfl are on their way out altogether with all manufacturers. Its just old school and mixing ccfl and led cost more at this point. It is cheaper to just get rid of the ccfl, put a few leds in the back, come up with a new marketing term (direct lit) and sell it as an led that is superior to edge lit. The 46" eh has 400 leds in it compared to my 47" LG that is full led with local dimming that has 1500. So instead of doing it properly they came up with a cheesy diffuser panel to compensate. But they had to make it thicker to make it work. That's why the d6000 with ccfl and edge lit is thinner than the eh6000 direct lit. The eh series is a very basic budget oriented bottom of the line led. And in all fairness they do kind of market it that way. No Smart tv. No 3d. And if you get one that is not defective it gets a pretty good picture. Its not a bad value but dont make the mistake of thinking that you are buying some top of the line model because it says led on the box. That is what Samsung is banking on.
btw I got 3 bad 60eh6000s before I gave up on Samsung. That is why I know so much about it.
Then I got my Panasonic 60ST50 and it gets a better picture and has been trouble free from day one.
Sorry.

The difference between TVs must be in the eye of the beholder to some point. I tried a Panasonic (47") and thought the picture quality was substantially worse than Samsung. Everything just seemed sort of dim and lifeless, even after calibration.

To each his own. I'm glad you're happy. It doesn't mean the EH is a crappy TV. I mean, if you're comparing it to a top of the line, full array with local dimming TV from any brand, then yes the EH is going to be worse. But when you're looking at a "bargain" TV I think LG is the only other brand that offers comparable quality.
Edited by nwener - 2/3/13 at 10:33am
post #1952 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkacklover View Post

The only image issues I have with my 55" 6030 is when watching hockey. When the puck moves quickly from one end to the other I see very very faint vertical banding. This had me assuming the led lit screen was on vertical rows and I was seeing faint shadowing. But I read above that its horizontal led backlighting?

Either way, I picked up some nice hdmi cables from mono (gold, ferrite, interference chokes) to hook my ps3 and Xbox to my av receiver. I had another nice mono cable and ran it from the receiver to the Samsung (replaced a Verizon hdmi cable that was making that run) and the shadow issue above visibly lessened.

So much so that after viewing the TV for about 20 minutes I placed another order to replace all my hdmi cables on my other tv's.

Not sure if it will make as much difference on my other tv's as there is less wiring in general around their setups. Really didn't think the cable would make this much difference but I swear it does.

HDMI cables rarely make a difference unless they are the wrong kind or some cheap Chinese knock-off. Gold connectors, ferrite cores (you don't need those) are more marketing than anything else. Certified High Speed HDMI cables (certified for the length that you are running which has to be 25' or less) from a reputable mfr is all you need. However, if you "think" there is a noticeable difference, that's fine. You either get the picture or you don't. Has nothing to do with color, banding, or what ever.
post #1953 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by nwener View Post

The difference between TVs must be in the eye of the beholder to some point. I tried a Panasonic (47") and thought the picture quality was substantially worse than Samsung. Everything just seemed sort of dim and lifeless, even after calibration.

To each his own. I'm glad you're happy. It doesn't mean the EH is a crappy TV. I mean, if you're comparing it to a top of the line, full array with local dimming TV from any brand, then yes the EH is going to be worse. But when you're looking at a "bargain" TV I think LG is the only other brand that offers comparable quality.

Also, a lot has to do with the screen size a person chooses. From what I see in reading many of the LCD/LED threads many of the problems are with screens over 50". It could be a number of reasons from sheer size and weight to lack of good panel support. Larger screen sizes are pushing the envelope for current LCD panel technology. Not that some smaller screens haven't had banding and uniformity issues, But larger screens seem to expose issues more easily at times.

But I agree, I posted early in this thread that I think, overall, Samsung did a good job with this TV and it is a bargain for the potential picture quality it can achieve and in spite of some thread posters citing negative CNET articles about the EH6000. One negative poster even later bought an EH6000 and now touts it as a good performer.rolleyes.gif That is what is valuable about AVS. We get to hear real world owner experiences and decide for ourselves if the person just has a problems with technology, or there is a trend with bad product. So called, "professional revues" are are not always representative of a model line of TVs since early release models may have everything from firmware issues to use of a problem prone LCD panel used in that particular test TV. And they rarely run a later review that could recant a previous error in review. As with anything. . . your mileage may vary.
Edited by Phase700B - 2/3/13 at 11:01am
post #1954 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

HDMI cables rarely make a difference unless they are the wrong kind or some cheap Chinese knock-off. Gold connectors, ferrite cores (you don't need those) are more marketing than anything else. Certified High Speed HDMI cables (certified for the length that you are running which has to be 25' or less) from a reputable mfr is all you need. However, if you "think" there is a noticeable difference, that's fine. You either get the picture or you don't. Has nothing to do with color, banding, or what ever.

+1, the great thing about HDMI is that if you get picture/sound with no sparkles, dropouts, or other obvious issues, you know you're getting the best picture/sound possible... there are no PQ differences between a $5 cable and a $100+ one. You can pay extra for things like RedMere or thicker cables (AWG), but they have no effect on PQ/SQ whatsoever.

Of course, the placebo effect can make you think one cable performs better than another, especially if you spent more on it and really want to see a difference.
post #1955 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

HDMI cables rarely make a difference unless they are the wrong kind or some cheap Chinese knock-off. Gold connectors, ferrite cores (you don't need those) are more marketing than anything else. Certified High Speed HDMI cables (certified for the length that you are running which has to be 25' or less) from a reputable mfr is all you need. However, if you "think" there is a noticeable difference, that's fine. You either get the picture or you don't. Has nothing to do with color, banding, or what ever.

Excellent reply Otto and Go 9ers!
post #1956 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Who really cares? Find what HDMI cable works for you as a TV owner and leave it at that. Some like one brand, some consider others overkill in cost and real quality.

If a new cable seems to help, great! No one has to concur whether it does or not. Only those who are insecure in their understanding of things need to constantly validate beliefs. rolleyes.gif
I am assuming that you posted this in response to my post because you are confused.
post #1957 of 2546
No. . not confused at all. Just concurring with other meaningless posts.smile.gif

Are you lost or confused?smile.gif
post #1958 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

No. . not confused at all. Just concurring with other meaningless posts.smile.gif

Are you lost or confused?smile.gif
You do that well.
post #1959 of 2546
Didn't answer the question though. . . are you lost or confused? Or maybe oblivious? wink.gif
post #1960 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I hooked up a Wii U to my UN46EH6030 today via Component (running at 1080p) and got this weird kind of ghosting effect on text and lines/shapes. Is this normal? If not, what could be the source of the issue?



This is the first time I used the Component input on this TV and when I hook the Wii U up via HDMI (also at 1080p), the ghosting effect is gone.

going down to 1080i seems to help a lot, but the problem still persists to a smaller extent
post #1961 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Didn't answer the question though. . . are you lost or confused? Or maybe oblivious? wink.gif
LOL biggrin.gif
Funny thing is that your comment on my post is misguided. I pretty much agree with your reply but it should have been made to the poster that brought up the hdmi cables in the first place. Not me. My comment on him making the thread 2 pages longer was because I thought that a big conversation about nothing was going to get started. That's why I asked if you were confused. And now you're all bent out of shape about nothing.
Edited by Bond 007 - 2/3/13 at 7:02pm
post #1962 of 2546
Yeah that is what I have always thought and still do. LOL. This was more a surprise than anything else. I mean digital in digital out.

Either way, whether it is real or placebo, the cables were cheap and my soul feels like the TV looks better!

Also I learned here about 5 years ago that expensive hdmi cables are worthless and have always gone with the less than $5 mono options. Which I did again, the only thing here was I replaced a Verizon provided hdmi cable.

The reality is that when I worked on replacing the cables I also checked and tightened down everything else as well. Cable line was checked and screwed in again, power cords unplugged and plugged back in, hdmi in and out, everything was touched.

My love and the kindness I showed my electronics is really what made everything look better.
Edited by blkacklover - 2/3/13 at 8:38pm
post #1963 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkacklover View Post

Yeah that is what I have always thought and still do. LOL. This was more a surprise than anything else. I mean digital in digital out.

Either way, whether it is real or placebo, the cables were cheap and my soul feels like the TV looks better!

Also I learned here about 5 years ago that expensive hdmi cables are worthless and have always gone with the less than $5 mono options. Which I did again, the only thing here was I replaced a Verizon provided hdmi cable.

The reality is that when I worked on replacing the cables I also checked and tightened down everything else as well. Cable line was checked and screwed in again, power cords unplugged and plugged back in, hdmi in and out, everything was touched.

My love and the kindness I showed my electronics is really what made everything look better.

If the HDMI cable is stressing the input by the way it is connected (too thick of a cable with not enough clearance, what ever), that can put unnecessary pressure on the pc boards which could affect the signal. I think some folks forget about the connections in the back when they push everything back in place. I'm not saying that's what you did but it is a possibility. And just moving cables around can relieve the pressure and make the connections more reliable.
post #1964 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post

If the HDMI cable is stressing the input by the way it is connected (too thick of a cable with not enough clearance, what ever), that can put unnecessary pressure on the pc boards which could affect the signal. I think some folks forget about the connections in the back when they push everything back in place. I'm not saying that's what you did but it is a possibility. And just moving cables around can relieve the pressure and make the connections more reliable.

I understand what you're saying and mostly agree, but any effect this has on the signal will not be related to PQ in the conventional sense. Rather, it would be things like what is mentioned in that CNET article I provided a link to earlier.
post #1965 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkacklover View Post

the only thing here was I replaced a Verizon provided hdmi cable.

was that a high speed (category 2) cable or a standard speed (category 1) cable?
post #1966 of 2546
Thanks everyone for the content in this thread! Picked up a 40" last week (TS02), the set really offers unbeatable picture quality for the price.
post #1967 of 2546
Standard HDMI cable I am guessing. Just a standard issue verizon HDMI cable from about 3 years ago.
post #1968 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

You can try and make sure you are not in "Movie mode". . . Try Standard then then play with Auto Motion settings.

Also, you don't say what your signal source is. If it's cable, many time the cable box will be outputting a frame rate or resolution not matching what your TV is set at.

I've tried to play with the Auto Motion setting in Standard, but still no luck.

The cable output is 1080i.
post #1969 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by memond98 View Post

I've tried to play with the Auto Motion setting in Standard, but still no luck.

The cable output is 1080i.

Just to see what happens, can your cable box be set for 720p output? If you try that and the problem goes away, then it may be a frame rate mismatch at 1080.
post #1970 of 2546
Same thing happens when I change output to 720p.
post #1971 of 2546
Has anyone here enabled the "Auto Power Off" setting? Last week, I thought it might be a good idea to set this to "ON" since my teenage daughters have shown a propensity for leaving the set on at night when they go to bed even with the STB or BDP turned off. I don't like coming downstairs in the morning and seeing the FIOS logo screensaver or worse, a completely bright blue screen, which is what happens when the BDP is turned off with the TV and AVR left on.

But then last night while watching the Super Bowl with friends (not long after the power outage in New Orleans, actually!) my TV all of a sudden just shut itself off. All I had to do to fix the issue was turn it back on. It was fine from then on for the remainder of the game and beyond. But when it happened, my daughter commented that she too had seen it do that. Then tonight, while I was watching a movie, it did it again. I looked up from my laptop and the screen was as dark as night even though the sound was still there. Similar to last night, I simply hit the power button on the remote and it turned back on.

I'm pretty sure that "Auto Power Off" is the culprit, but wanted to check to be sure. I wouldn't think the set would turn itself off while a program was actually playing, but would hope it would turn itself off after a time if not receiving a signal from any source.

In any case, I've now disabled the feature again. Hopefully I can get my daughters to remember to turn off the TV when they go to bed!! LOL!
post #1972 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by memond98 View Post

Same thing happens when I change output to 720p.

Well, not sure what is happening when you watch hockey, but guessing it may be that you are seeing macro blocking or some other screen break up because of the fast motion. Often, programs are compressed and processed at a cable provider facility before passing it onto you as a cable subscriber. This extra signal processing allows more channels over less bandwidth, but comes at the price of sacrificed motion artifacts. You can try other channels that have fast moving action and see if some of them look ok. If they do, then those other hockey channels are being compressed.

Also, ANY defects in video signal quality from a video source will be much more visible on a large screen TV.
Edited by Phase700B - 2/5/13 at 8:00am
post #1973 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

Has anyone here enabled the "Auto Power Off" setting? Last week, I thought it might be a good idea to set this to "ON" since my teenage daughters have shown a propensity for leaving the set on at night when they go to bed even with the STB or BDP turned off. I don't like coming downstairs in the morning and seeing the FIOS logo screensaver or worse, a completely bright blue screen, which is what happens when the BDP is turned off with the TV and AVR left on.

But then last night while watching the Super Bowl with friends (not long after the power outage in New Orleans, actually!) my TV all of a sudden just shut itself off. All I had to do to fix the issue was turn it back on. It was fine from then on for the remainder of the game and beyond. But when it happened, my daughter commented that she too had seen it do that. Then tonight, while I was watching a movie, it did it again. I looked up from my laptop and the screen was as dark as night even though the sound was still there. Similar to last night, I simply hit the power button on the remote and it turned back on.

I'm pretty sure that "Auto Power Off" is the culprit, but wanted to check to be sure. I wouldn't think the set would turn itself off while a program was actually playing, but would hope it would turn itself off after a time if not receiving a signal from any source.

In any case, I've now disabled the feature again. Hopefully I can get my daughters to remember to turn off the TV when they go to bed!! LOL!

all that setting does is turn off the TV after 4 hours if no button is pressed on the TV remote or front console (joystick thing)... as such, it's not a very good setting

no signal power off is much better as once the the source device is off and outputting no signal, the TV can turn off in 15, 30, 45, or 60 mins
post #1974 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by memond98 View Post

I have similar settings to above and did some calibration as well, but am still not happy with the picture when the picture moves quick, like a hockey game. I thought the Auto Motion Plus setting would help me out there, buth just like you I can't see much of a difference. Any advice you can give me on getting this part right? I almost feel like I have overlooked one setting, as the picture is giving me a headache when watching hockey.

Nobody else have this issue?

Quote:
Originally Posted by memond98 View Post

I've tried to play with the Auto Motion setting in Standard, but still no luck.

The cable output is 1080i.

why would the picture mode (Standard vs. Movie) have any effect on the AMP setting?

on a side note, does your cable STB allow you to display 720p channels in 720p and 1080i channels in 1080i? some STB do

and what do you have film mode set to for 1080i input signals?
post #1975 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonny-zed View Post

Has anyone here enabled the "Auto Power Off" setting? Last week, I thought it might be a good idea to set this to "ON" since my teenage daughters have shown a propensity for leaving the set on at night when they go to bed even with the STB or BDP turned off. I don't like coming downstairs in the morning and seeing the FIOS logo screensaver or worse, a completely bright blue screen, which is what happens when the BDP is turned off with the TV and AVR left on.

But then last night while watching the Super Bowl with friends (not long after the power outage in New Orleans, actually!) my TV all of a sudden just shut itself off. All I had to do to fix the issue was turn it back on. It was fine from then on for the remainder of the game and beyond. But when it happened, my daughter commented that she too had seen it do that. Then tonight, while I was watching a movie, it did it again. I looked up from my laptop and the screen was as dark as night even though the sound was still there. Similar to last night, I simply hit the power button on the remote and it turned back on.

I'm pretty sure that "Auto Power Off" is the culprit, but wanted to check to be sure. I wouldn't think the set would turn itself off while a program was actually playing, but would hope it would turn itself off after a time if not receiving a signal from any source.

In any case, I've now disabled the feature again. Hopefully I can get my daughters to remember to turn off the TV when they go to bed!! LOL!

Same thing happened to me when this was enabled after I first got the set during some long Netflix marathon viewings. As PlasmaPZ80U says, no signal off is more reliable and won't alarm you while watching something lengthy.
post #1976 of 2546
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456444/question-about-color-temps-and-correct-looking-whites#post_22926943

a good thread about color temp presets and white balance calibration
post #1977 of 2546
For those of you who are satisfied with your EH6000/6001/6003/6050, no need to read the rest of this post as it may ruin the set for you. Maybe not. If you're still evaluating and do not see this issue in these scenes, please report back if possible.

I have two separate UN60EH6050 from Costco and both exhibit the purple/violet ghosting issue. Very minor but it is there and it is consistent with dark edges on light backgrounds. In previous posts, another member used the scene in The Return of the King where Gollum goes nuts with Sam in the swamp as a test scene. When I originally watched this scene, I saw zero ghosting on Gollum's edges. This is because I didn't know what to look for and now that I have seen it, I can detect it in the Gollum scene, but he moves so quickly that it just isn't a very good scene for detecting if your set has this issue. I think the scene right after is much better. Aragorn is silhouetted and walks out onto the balcony. You can see slight purple ghosting on the edges of his silhouette. Another scene that jumps out at me is in X-Men Origins Wolverine near the end right when he gets the top of the reactor just before he fights Deadpool. He's climbing with his claws and then jumps up on the ledge. I can see it plain as day here. During the battle, watch the edges of Victor's coat while they battle Deadpool. All in all the ghosting is minor but it is there on my sets. The Walking Dead episode "Killer Within" shows it as well in the dark scenes in the prison where there's a lot of movement. I think any dark scene with fast moving characters will exhibit the ghosting. The ghosting is not present when you pause the scene or step through it, only when it's playing. I'm wondering if Samsung could at least update the firmware to have the ghosting grey scale if not eliminated altogether.
post #1978 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by memond98 View Post

I've tried to play with the Auto Motion setting in Standard, but still no luck.

The cable output is 1080i.

I think you misunderstood Phase700B. He suggested setting the mode to Standard not AMP. However, I don't think Standard or Movie mode will make a difference as far as motion issues. I would definitely stay away from AMP Standard and Smooth settings. Alos, I previously posted that Custom blur 10, judder 0 seemed okay but I spent the weekend fooling around with AMP and found this setting to produce motion issues especially things like bouncing/dribbling balls. So far AMP set to Clear or OFF gives the best sports viewing for me. My cable box is outputting 720p or 1080i depending on the source and ice hockey looks great to me. Not sure what kind of motion issues you are seeing.
post #1979 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshall110 View Post

For those of you who are satisfied with your EH6000/6001/6003/6050, no need to read the rest of this post as it may ruin the set for you. Maybe not. If you're still evaluating and do not see this issue in these scenes, please report back if possible.

I have two separate UN60EH6050 from Costco and both exhibit the purple/violet ghosting issue. Very minor but it is there and it is consistent with dark edges on light backgrounds. In previous posts, another member used the scene in The Return of the King where Gollum goes nuts with Sam in the swamp as a test scene. When I originally watched this scene, I saw zero ghosting on Gollum's edges. This is because I didn't know what to look for and now that I have seen it, I can detect it in the Gollum scene, but he moves so quickly that it just isn't a very good scene for detecting if your set has this issue. I think the scene right after is much better. Aragorn is silhouetted and walks out onto the balcony. You can see slight purple ghosting on the edges of his silhouette. Another scene that jumps out at me is in X-Men Origins Wolverine near the end right when he gets the top of the reactor just before he fights Deadpool. He's climbing with his claws and then jumps up on the ledge. I can see it plain as day here. During the battle, watch the edges of Victor's coat while they battle Deadpool. All in all the ghosting is minor but it is there on my sets. The Walking Dead episode "Killer Within" shows it as well in the dark scenes in the prison where there's a lot of movement. I think any dark scene with fast moving characters will exhibit the ghosting. The ghosting is not present when you pause the scene or step through it, only when it's playing. I'm wondering if Samsung could at least update the firmware to have the ghosting grey scale if not eliminated altogether.

The purple ghosting issue seems to be isolated to Sharp panels FWIR. And AFAIK the 60" models only use sharp panels. So other EH6000/6001/6050/etc owners may not see any symptons of it unless they also have a sharp panel.

Since the problem is likely with the panel itself and not with any software, I wouldn't expect a firmware update to fix anything.
post #1980 of 2546
Quote:
Originally Posted by lm 808 View Post

I don't think Standard or Movie mode will make a difference as far as motion issues. I would definitely stay away from AMP Standard and Smooth settings. Alos, I previously posted that Custom blur 10, judder 0 seemed okay but I spent the weekend fooling around with AMP and found this setting to produce motion issues especially things like bouncing/dribbling balls. So far AMP set to Clear or OFF gives the best sports viewing for me. My cable box is outputting 720p or 1080i depending on the source and ice hockey looks great to me. Not sure what kind of motion issues you are seeing.

that sounds right... the main reason to use Custom blur 10, judder 0 is with 24p sources, like BD movies
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: LCD Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread