Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 69

do you have the european verion? because the US version I have has great motion but lackluster 3D (not full resolution and too much crosstalk between eyes)

the sharpness setting shouldn't vary too much among various EH series sets (it's usually more related to brand and possibly model year) but it's always a good idea to put up a sharpness test pattern (in 1080i/p with Screen Fit for 1:1 pixel mapping) and check it out yourself... I'm willing to bet, though, that a range of 0-10 should apply to the EH series in most cases

also, if you want to be really precise and exact when using such a pattern, get as close to the screen as possible when setting the control... the EE can be subtle at low sharpness settings, but that doesn't mean it's not there
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 2/9/13 at 10:16am

I should add I don't think one can buy a cable shorter than 6' for the Wii/Wii U, Xbox 360, or PS3. Also, the official branded cables are pretty well made and the third party ones are usually worse (keeping in mind that such cables have proprietary connections on the console end so you can't just use any standard component cable).

All in all, it really doesn't matter though, since all the HD capable consoles available now have HDMI outputs (unless you have a very old Xbox 360 that doesn't). So, only the old Wii needs to use Component Video and since it only outputs 480p max, it should be fine as another poster has observed.

Has anyone else noticed that motion plus is not completely off even when set to off? Its quite obvious in non PC mode. In PC mode I think its still there but very subtle. And this is the cause of the input lag in PC mode.

Have you updated to the latest firmware? This was a known issue for some older versions.

Yes I have the latest version.
I also tried swithselecting "custom" from the motion settings and setting everything to 0 and it didnt work either.
If I didnt have my old samsung to compare I probably wouldnt be bothered too much about this. But knowing it could be better annoys me.

what is the exact model number you have (for example, I have the UN46EH6030)? and what firmware version do you have on it? check the menu -> support -> contact samsung for this info all in one place

http://www.rtings.com/info/what-is-the-refresh-rate

good link from the other EH series thread... helps answer CMR questions more exactly

Just posting back on my EH6000 series search. As I posted a while back, I've purchased two UN60EH6050 sets from Costco because the first set had a major flashlight that was still visible with the back light set to zero in Movie mode. The second set was much better, with light minor clouding that was barely visible that I would have kept but it had a wrinkle in the panel bc it wasn't seated correctly behind the bezel. Wanted to get a third set but both Costco's were completely sold out. So I ended up purchasing a UN60EH6000 from Amazon which was the model I wanted to get originally but believed the Costco 6050 was the same EXACT set which it isn't, there are differences.

I got my EH6000 this past Friday and had a huge cloud dead center of the screen . I waited 20 minutes and then it was completely gone. The uniformity on this screen is about as close to perfect as you can get. In a completely dark room in Movie mode with the back light at 20, you can see some minor small clouding which would not bother me in this viewing situation. When I put the back light back to a normal viewing setting at 8-14, the screen is perfect. It's amazing how much better it is than the 6050 I was watching for the past week in terms of screen uniformity. Of course it's the same panel, HS01 and sets vary even within the same exact model line but this EH6000 is better than the EH6050 I would have kept if it didn't have the wrinkle.

Purely subjective I know, but IMHO the overall black levels on my EH6000 seem better and inkier. The picture itself seems richer. I've transferred my picture settings between the two EH6050s and for the most part they both seemed within the same ballpark. I then transferred those settings to my EH6000 and I had to tone it down a bit as it was much richer. Not sure if this points to more latitude in the set but to me it does say there may be a PQ difference between the 6000 and 6050. No side by side comparisons as I've boxed and unboxed these badboys enough to last me a decade, but after watching the same test material, I come away feeling the EH6000 has much better blacks and overall a better picture and I haven't done much tweaking specific to the EH6000 yet.

Maybe I just got lucky but many reviews of this set speak of it's screen uniformity. Overall, I am beyond pleased with this set. 3rd time is a charm for me I guess with TVs as I went through this with my last Samsung 6 years ago, and went through 3 sets with my Philips 27" Tube set due to buzzing many more years ago.

The purple ghosting is present on the EH6000. Can't say if it's better, worse, or the same as the 6050 but it's there. The Piano black on the EH6000 is much nicer than the Rose Black on the EH6050. It's not just the stand that has the difference in color. Not a deal breaker as the Rose Black looks black anyways under most lighting conditions, but the Piano black is much nicer.

So for what it's worth to those scratching their heads about these varying model numbers within the EH6000 line and not sure what to buy, my personal experience and opinion says go with an EH6000 vs the EH6050 if you are getting a 60". If you're getting a 55" or below go to Costco or you local B&M store and get a set with a TS01 or TS02 panel, Preferably an EH6000. Costco still had a few EH6050 TS02 panels in the 55" flavor. No need to play the panel lottery online as the Sharp Panels (HS01) have the minor purple ghosting. If you're looking for a 65", Costco has the 65" in the EH6000 line for $1800 on sale with their 2nd year warranty but they will tax you on the retail value. Don't let the Costco 2nd year warranty sway you from possibly having a better set with a EH6000 because just by using your credit card you'll get an extra year of warranty which from what I read is pretty darn good. Especially if you're using AMEX. I think that's it, hope this helps someone.

Also, this is my own opinion. For those that own a 6050 and are happy with it, than great but no need to defend your purchase to me. I'm just putting this out there for those looking to buy discern what is what with this line.
Edited by marshall110 - 2/11/13 at 1:11pm

I have the UE46EH6030.

I just found this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQFwjFy43EM

It looks like its not just me.

I emailed samsung to have a look at this issue. Anyone else with the 6030 can you email as well, so that they ll be more inclined to have a look into this matter?

I think Im gonna return it and get the UE46ES6300. It looks like the input lag is a lot better compared to the 6030. Those 2 reviews confirms it.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/samsung-ue40es6300-ue46es6300-201211142326.htm?page=Picture%20Quality

http://www.digitalversus.com/tv-television/samsung-ue40es6300-p13200/test.html

Better spend another £100 and buy something I'm 100% happy with

My set has decided that daylight savings time is already over. It jumped an hour ahead and resyncing it with the antenna doesn't seem to help. Any ideas what could be causing this or should I just suck it up and set the time manually (or wait till spring)?

ok, make sure the firmware version you have is newer or the same as the one on the Samsung official website... don't rely on the update online feature directly from the TV's internet connection as this may state you have the latest version when you really don't

Plasma, can you explain this further?

I just updated mine via the TV internet connection. Everything appeared to download and install fine.

Is there history of it not working correctly this way? I am guessing I need to jump into the service menu to verify I have the update?

It is just speculation and misplaced concern.. No reason to go into the Service Menu to check anything unless you want to take a chance to brick your TV.

To check your firmware version on the 6030, or read this http://www.samsung.com/us/support/supportOwnersHowToGuidePopup.do?howto_guide_seq=6510&prd_ia_cd=N0000058&map_seq=88313

1. Press the menu button on the remote

2. Navigate to Support on the menu

3. Navigate and enter, "Contact Samsung"

4. The firmware is listed as -Software Version: X-XXXXXXXXX-1011.0 ,BT-G

5. 1011.0 is the firmware version


Sometimes new manufactured tv's will come with a newer firmware version than what is officially available on the support site.

I used the Software update Online on my TV but I did have to do it twice. First time it downloaded then it didn't install. So I clicked it again and the tv updated.

This is actually on a Sharp LCD TV, but was wondering what others think of this. It's a small break in the lower edge mask when looking down into the bottom edge, and it's not noticeable at regular viewing distance. Anyone know what this is, and if it will lead to any problems?

It's simple, when you check for updates via the TV's internet connection, it's not uncommon for it to say you already have the latest firmware version when in reality a newer version is on the Samsung website and can be applied via USB. No need to enter the service menu since the support portion of the main menu should tell you which version you have (you can check under menu -> support -> SW Upgrade OR menu -> support -> contact samsung).

I'd like to add that my point is not that if the TV finds an update via the internet connection (as opposed to getting it from a PC and putting on a USB drive), that it won't download and install correctly but rather that it may not find the latest version at all and say you have current firmware when in fact a newer version is on Samsung.com. In other words, the update online feature is hit or miss when it comes to finding the latest firmware available, so YMMV.
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 2/12/13 at 8:01pm

^ ^ ^ Excellent advice. No need to go into the Service Menu as apparently was earlier implied. No recommendation to go into the service menu is safe or recommended.
Edited by Phase700B - 2/13/13 at 10:38am

nope and it was never implied/suggested

on a side note, the EH6000/6050 doesn't even offer the online update feature (you can only do it by USB)... I believe only the EH5300/6030/6070 have the option to update by internet

That IS odd.If the TV lost power or a cable box was reset??

Nope. I just switched it to manual and rolled it an hour back since nothing seemed to help (HD air signals only). Maybe all my local broadcasters flipped the wrong switch?

is there a daylight savings setting in the 'time' portion of the 'system' menu (menu -> system -> time -> clock -> DST)? if there is you can select 'on' instead of 'off'

as a side note, 'auto' features don't always work right and so sometimes the manual option is the only reliable way (but you won't know until you try the auto option and see if it works correctly or not, so YMMV)

I played around with the DST setting. It made no difference. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Hmm. . the Auto function works on all my TVs (3). One thing it may be is that currently OTA (antenna) TV stations are dropping the Electronic TV Guide Onscreen (TVGOS) service and those stations also are the ones who generally carry the clock signal for auto setting the TV clock. The clock and TVGOS was/is part of the same data stream.

So if something got disconnected at your local TV station during the transition to drop TVGOS, that may explain it. There have been all sorts of issues as they take the TVGOS injector equipment off line. CBS local stations were mostly the ones who carried both TVGOS and the clock data streams. Previously it was PBS.

was that with the clock in auto or manual mode?

Auto. The idea was to get the HD carrier signal to sync the clock time again correctly and no changes made it correct.

I have one basic question. I have a un46eh6000. Do I need to have AMP on a setting to utilize 120? I see no difference in picture watching a bluray set to 24p with AMP off. It seems like set to off the TV behaves as a 60hz unit. Scrolling credits are not smooth at all.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

You need to turn AMP on to either Standard or Smooth to get the credits to roll smoothly. Clear might not make it as smooth but it won't give the SOE that most people hate. Good luck.