Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 72

Thanks

If you post your settings someone on this thread should be able to spot anything that looks obviously wrong.

I just wanted to thank everyone for the wealth of information here and I wanted to share my own experience for anyone else looking to buy a new television. I purchased a 55EH6003 SLIM model with a TS-01 and a 46EH6000 with a TS-02 panel. These were purchased for a friend of mine that I hang out with regularly. Thus, I indirectly get the benefit of my laborious research. If you are still reading these AVS threads, just stop. STOP. Stop and go buy one of these panels. You won't be disappointed (knock on wood). They're phenomenal for the price, functionality and picture quality. If you don't have a lot of peripherals or if you're minimalistic about media devices and audio set-up, these models should be in the race for your hard-earned money. Remember, only two HDMI ports.

I wish I had considered the size and set up of the rooms prior to purchasing the 55 inch. At first blush, when buying a set the thinking is always, "bigger is better." This is not necessarily true. Two 46 inch Sammy's would have been preferable. I understand: these things become entirely subjective. For me, the distance I prefer to sit from the television (9-11 feet) suits a 46 inch better. So I would encourage you to look at your room and make some proper decisions about the size. I don't want to be the pompous guy complaining about a 55 inch Sammy. I"m very grateful, but I missed an opportunity saved some cash and be just as content with the size.

As for the panels, the TS-01 has slightly better viewing angles, but the TS-02 is almost flawless in it's picture quality. Awesome crisp and colorful picture. No dead pixels, no ghosting and no clouding. Blacks are great and screen is uniform. I couldn't really ask for a better television.

Maybe if it was free.

Both have a PS3, respectively. The 55 inch has a Samsung HW-E450 sound bar for audio. The 46 inch is hooked up to Sony HTCT260. At first, I had the sound bars hooked up vice versa. After one and a half weeks, I still prefer the Sony even though it doesn't have HDMI. Call me crazy.

These sets suffer of benefit, depending on your opinion, from an intense soap opera effect. However, with a little tweaking from this thread or from some of the individuals over at Amazon, you can find some settings to suit your palette quickly.

I'm still not over the picture quality. It's a bit of a honeymoon at this particular point in time. Skyfall has been on repeat all week.

I hope this helps someone. If anyone has any questions, I'll help however I can. Thanks again for all the knowledge retained on this thread.

I was all but set on returning this TV and decided to calibrate it side by side with my Aquos. I am much happier with the results and am honing in on a good calibration. I know that everyone sets their sharpness low, but it really seems to dull the picture for me until I hit the 20 mark. I may be missing something with the other settings that will allow me to offset such a high sharpness level. Also, I am still seeing some motion blur even with AMP on clear. I am not sure if there is a way to correct this. Thank you guys very much for being so helpful. Here are my settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

MOVIE MODE
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 25 (Tentative)
Color: 50
Tint (G/R): G50/R50
Color Space: Native (tried auto, but Native seems to pop more)
White Balance:Default
Gamma: +1
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Black Tone: Dark (Not really sure what to do with this, but Dark looks pretty good)
Flesh Tone: -3 (Tentative, Flesh seems too orange on 0)
Motion Lighting: Off
Color Tone: Warm1
Size: Screen Fit
Digital Noise Filter: Off
HDMI Black Level: Normal (Grayed out)
Film Mode: Off
Auto Motion Plus: Clear
LED Motion Plus: Off
Edited by Skep1 - 3/4/13 at 8:20am

Based on the previous issues you reported with the TV, I think that you should not have gamma set at +1 (this will generally dull the colors) and you likely have the backlight and brightness set a tad too high. What kind of viewing environment are you in? Is this a very brightly lit room?

I'd say the contrast probably doesn't need to be set that high either. You want it high enough that it isn't clipping any whites. The sweet spot seems to be in the high 80s or low 90s for most people when using movie mode.

If you made those changes then I imagine you'd need to adjust the flesh tone setting too, as your setting seems too aggressive.

I'm going to defer to someone else on black tone and color space, but I do know the settings you have chosen there are unusual.

This is just my opinion though having not even seen your TV. So if you're happy with it, then more power to you. I just thought I'd provide some bases for further tweaking if you are so inclined.

Agree with nwener that your Black Tone and Color Space settings are not the norm. Black Tone on "Dark" might crush blacks. Maybe try it on off or some lower setting and and see if bringing Gamma back down to 0 or -1 looks good for you. Backlight at 15 might be okay if your room is well lit. Also agree that contrast can be brought down to around 90. At 100 you might start getting too much pink tone especially since white balance is on default. This may be why you had to bring down Flesh Tone even though you are only on Warm 1. A lot of people feel that Warm 2 with Flesh Tone at 0 looks more natural.

I'm not sure what source you are seeing the motion blur. So far AMP on clear looks the best for me when watching sports on cable. For Blu Ray movies try Custom, Blur 10, Judder 0. Others recommend this but I honestly haven't had time to sit down and observe this setting with BR. However, I do know that I don't like it for sports.

Thanks! I am pretty sure I will be tweaking these settings for quite some time. The TV is in a pretty bright room, so backlight needs to be pretty high. To be honest, even on 20 (unless it's night with the lights off) the TV still seems dim.

I have an additional question pertaining to audio inputs that I saw was touched on earlier in this thread. Am I right in assuming that there is no way to use the audio input in conjunction with one of the HDMI ports? In some cases I need to hook my 09 macbook pro up and the mini display port does not have audio. On my other tvs I am able to link analog sound with an hdmi port. I do not see any setting for this.

Thanks again!

I dont know if you are calibrating by eye or with tools. If by eye, you may want to use the easy AVS tools described here
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/420#post_22233258

Did anyone else recently receive a flash drive from Samsung with the 1011.0 firmware update for the EH6030 or EH6070 model (and a small insert with instructions on how to apply the update/description of what the update does)? I did and I never even requested it, but I did register my TV with Samsung when I first bought it. Odd.

Kind of odd. I watch in a pretty well lit room and the TV looks plenty bright at 15. The only other setting that would dim the screen would be LED Motion Plus but you already have it off.

Actually the TS02 EH6000 I owned before my TS01 EH6030 was maxing out near 50 fL in Movie mode fully calibrated while the EH6030 goes somewhere past 70 fL.

FWIW, the TS02 EH5000 I had before either 6 series was also putting out about 70 fL (max) in Movie mode fully calibrated.

I don't think there is anything wrong with the panel as dynamic mode is bright enough to burn my eyes out. I am going to try the AVS calibration tool this weekend and see what I come up with. In all honesty, I am likely obsessing over the picture too much. I can't get through a movie or show without tinkering with some settings.

I did the same for firsts couple weeks.
even now i still find myself tinkering.

If you have comcast like me dont waste your time, you will never get it right.
Its not your TV that is the problem its their high compressed HD channels. you might get it right with one channel on one particular show/movie, then will look awful on another show/movie/channel...its never ending battle.

I keep second guessing my TV purchase then i go and watch 1080p movie from my HTPC then im happy again. Lol
Edited by demo23019 - 3/7/13 at 6:13am

I came to that conclusion watching a 1080p Avatar rip last night.. I switched to History Channel and it did not look bad.. Then the wife wanted to watch American Idol and it looked awful.. I have Charter for what it is worth, and their HD may be the worst in the market.

I am not sure if you use XBMC or Plex on your HTPC, but I found out something pretty cool when messing with PC mode. If you enable "auto adjust refresh rate" in Plex, bluray/24hz movie/shows will switch the resolution and allow you to watch your movie using one of the three dynamic, standard or movie settings. This way you can have the smooth desktop/Plex interface of PC mode without having to watch movies in 4:4:4. This works great if all of your movies/shows are 24hz, but if they are 60 hz, you are stuck watching them in PC mode.. There is also the delay when switching resolutions. AMP seems to work much better at 24 hz.
Edited by Skep1 - 3/7/13 at 10:30am

OMG thank you for mentioning this i use XBMC it does have option in settings under

video/playback/adjust displays refresh rate to match video*

Now i can use PC mode again
Edited by demo23019 - 3/7/13 at 2:13pm

So I've had 4 TV's in the last 2 weeks, my girlfriend thinks I'm going insane! lol. I had picked up a un40eh5050 and a un40es6150 from costco. Both had dead pixels. Both returned, re-bought the ES6150 again. Clouding was too hard to deal with, back it went and this weekend went to Best Buy and purchased a eh6000 ts02 from Best Buy. By the way Best Buy just changed their return policy from 30 to 15 days! Anyways, this TV seems to be the best so far. Before even turning on the TV (so this might not be a valid test) I loosened all 4 screws on the back corners about a quarter turn. I have to report that I have almost no vignetting in the corners.

Still trying to find settings that I'm happy with, as I'm not 100% sold just yet. My old TV that this is replacing is a samsung that had ccfl backlightning and I feel like the whites were nicer than this TV. The whites on the EH6000 seem more grey then white. I have my black light set to 12 and contrast 96 with brightness at 44 and gamma 0. Is this just a function of LED tv's? I'm using movie mode since I dont want the picture auto dimming. I have to say the dark knight looks great on this TV via my PS3.

One more thing I also noticed is I see more artifacts. I went from a 32" (720) to this 40" 1080p. Is the higher resolution and larger screen just making it more obvious now? I also read that my firmware version of 1018 is not actually correct and I should upgrade it to 1012?

Thanks for everyone's input in this thread.

You are correct. I was able to upgrade to 1012 when the tv said 1018.

I purchased a 46EH6000 and loved it so much that I purchased a 55EH6000.

The 46" is a TS02 panel and the 55" is a TH02 panel. I can honestly say the TH02 screen is NOT as good as the TS02. And now the 55" TH02 has a stuck bright green pixel. The picture doesn't have any banding and the picture quality is good but not nearly as good as the 46" TS02.

I got it from amazon and still in the 30 day return period and wonder if I should return it over one stuck pixel? I'm going to try one of those programs to try to get the pixel unstuck. I really don't want to end up with a CHXX panel or worse.

Thought I would share my experiences.

You could try standard mode to see how you like it. Most seem to prefer movie (because it doesn't have auto dimming, as you recognize), but standard is generally brighter. I notice that if I watch the TV on standard for a while and then switch over to movie mode the picture kind of has this olive-grey look at first, though I quickly adjust to it.

The first one i got had 2 green other than that i was quite happy with it. I tried fixing with pixel software/videos and rubbing on it but didn't help.
I ended up returning mine becasue i bought locally. If i got online i wouldn't have bothered, you take chance of getting another one with more stuck or other issues.

Will there be an FH6000 in the upcoming F series, or what will be the most comparable replacement for the EH series? It looks like there may be an F6000, but will it still be backlit or will it be edge lit?
Edited by tylerSC - 3/8/13 at 5:45pm

Amazon is great about returns and will refund your money as soon as the return ships. I bet they would ship you a replacement as soon as you schedule a pickup. For what it is worth, I got my un55eh6000 from amazon a week ago and it was a TH02 panel..

Unless it's unnoticable without you right on top of it, any amount of stuck pixels is unacceptable these days IMO. These sets may be getting cheaper all the time but $600+ is still a LOT of burgers and you're supposed to own this thing for years. Return it.

I wish there was some way to disable auto-dimming on standard. I had the day off today and spent the better part of it fooling with settings. I had it looking great, but now that the sun has gone down, the picture does not look the same. Is there any way to get movie to be as bright as standard is during daytime? Anyway to disable the auto-dim feature all together?

hey guys i just posted this in the calibration forum but i figued id ask here since you guys have the same tv

Hello everyone,

Hoping someone can quickly answer this. I'm fairly new to all this. I bought a disney wow blu ray before I found the avs hd 709 (could have saved myself $18) oh well. Anyways I'm trying to configure my new samsung un40eh6000. After reading online a lot of people say to enable super white on the ps3.

When I enable super white my contrast gets all weird like below. Same goes for the disney wow cd, all the stars are visible even at 100% contrast. In order to get reference white or pure white i have to raise my brightness 10-15+ points so that i dont see any bars after 235 which then washes out black.







However, if i leave super white off it just clips it exactly where it needs to be and i adjust my brightness & contrast a few clicks (which seems like the right setting). Is the tv smart enough and just knows to clip everything after reference white & black and to know there shouldnt be anymore information? When super whites off if i just raise my brightness or contrast to the max the lines (hd 709) or stars (wow cd) never even show show up.





So should i leave super white on or off? I did also notice super white makes whites more "white" but when off, white becomes more "grey"

Mine doesn't auto dim on standard might have something to do with eco sensor IDK mine is off.

also what is the purpose of led motion plus all i see it doing is making the screen really dark and awful looking.

edit

never mind i notice it dimming
Edited by demo23019 - 3/19/13 at 5:51am

Led motion plus use the led backlight strobing effect to minimize blur and also give it the plasma motion quality.
You will need to increase contrast, brightness and backlight to compensate the darker screen.

You can test it with this download: 30fps vs 60fps mp4 video in here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456808/30fps-vs-60fps-motion-test-frame-doubling-motion-smoother-cmr-trumotion-motionflow-etc

Near as I can tell, the primary purpose of LED motion plus is to dim the screen so much that you are more concerned about that and don't notice motion blur as much.

Thanks for the heads up yea I have my contrast all the way up, dynamic to medium already. I can adjust brightness but this setting alone doesn't bring back what i lose.
Lol so true.
Edited by demo23019 - 3/9/13 at 12:44pm

On the EH6030, you can actually use LED Motion Plus and still get a reasonably bright image (40 fL+). Also, on that set it does seems to reduce motion blur visibly on video or games with really fast motion.

On the EH6000, I couldn't get more than 25 fL out of the set with that setting enabled (which is why I suspect most here leave it off).