Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 21

You can actually get Standard and Movie mode to look identical, there are just some differences in processing between them. Standard has a higher default contrast (6 points higher) and color (12 points higher) setting. That's why Movie seems dimmer. Once you compensate for contrast and color they show an identical picture.

Even though Movie mode's contrast of 100 is equal to Standard mode contrast of 94, you can manually crank the contrast up past 100 in Movie mode by simultaneously increasing the R-G-B drives. This raises the white point and is the same as turning up contrast.

I don't mind the dimming (motion lighting?) I would just prefer if there was an on/off switch. If it bothers anyone you can either use movie mode and calibrate it for the same picture as Standard, or rename the input to "PC" calibrate that.

Here are my Calibration settings BTW. It's for a EH5000, but apart from the 120hz they should be similar/the same.
Edited by chicolom - 9/6/12 at 7:23pm

That would be great if the backlight-dimming had an off switch. My old Sammsung 55B6000 had that issue and it was the only thing I hated about that tv.

Try:

(TV in Standby Mode)
Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power (in rapid succession).

Power to exit.


I have a suspicion that "Motion Lighting" was supposed to be that On/Off switch for auto-backlight-dimming, but through a glitch in the software it's always On (only in Standard mode though).

I have to disagree. Did you use a blue filter when you calibrated? Color/tint settings between the two are very different. I think there is about a 15 point difference between them to get the bars equal. I know one is in the 30's and the other was in the 50's when I was done. Both contrast were 100 and both brightness were 44 on my set but color was different. There is more going on behind the scenes you can't get them the exact same picture through the main settings. Movie has a softer warmer picture than standard.

thank you for the reply chicolom

Like I said, if I calibrate every setting in each menu the same except for using 6 less Contrast and 12 less color for Standard mode, I can tell no difference between them. That means Movie mode Contrast: 100, Color: 50 = Standard mode Contrast: 94, Color: 38. If I adjust both up or down one contrast or color point, they both clip the test patterns at the same time. I can even set Standard mode on 100 contrast and simultaneously crank up the R-G-B gain in movie mode (raises the white point, same as contrast) and it will eventually still come out the same.

If your set has equivalent contrast at 100 on both Standard and Movie modes, it must have different processing going on. Brightness is the same on mine, but contrast is definitely different. This is all for an UN40EH5000, maybe the 6000 has different processing. I was under the impression that apart from the 120hz they were the same....

I see no undefeatable sharpening on Standard (my last TV had this) so I don't see why movie is softer. Movie is set to Warm 2, but when I set them to the same white balance they look identical. I didn't us a blue filter, but that mainly means I can't tell if the color and tint are accurate - it doesn't mean I can't tell if the color and tint are different between the modes.

EDIT: Actually I did get my hands on a blue filter.
Edited by chicolom - 9/6/12 at 7:22pm

Hi, I'm trying to choose between the UN60EH6000 and the UN60ES6100. Picture quality is all that matters. The EH6000 series gets a much higher rating on Amazon than the ES6100. So is there any reason to spend an extra $400 on the ES6100?

I've had both. EH6000 has better uniformity. ES6100 has a "clear-coat screen" that looks a little odd. The colors looked weird, IMO, especially with animation or video games. As far as PQ alone they both have their faults but I would say the EH6000 is better.

I have three questions for you xxEH6000 owners.

We're considering this set to replace an old Sony 32" Trinitron XBR (which weighs 10x the flat panel...) but anyway, we've hooked up a small powered sub to the old set, and I'm hoping to do the same with the new flat panel.

First question: On this set - can someone confirm if the analog audio output can be driven by the volume control? That way changing the volume on the set would also change the volume output of that jack. Or is it fixed? I tried to find a setting for fixed/variable output for that, but didn't see it, so I suspect it's a fixed line-level output, but I'd love confirmation.

Second question: Screen reflectivity. Is this a matte screen? Can someone post a picture of a reflection of a light or something on this screen?

Third question: if you run the TV sound LOUD is it usable? This set will be for an 80-something who's a sports fan, but doesn't always have their hearing aids in.....

I'm dithering between this and the ES6100, but we don't need the fancy stuff. Just need a good TV for sports that is 40 or 42" with good sound.

Thank you!

I took this the other night excuse the wires I just got those speakers that day. You can see from the TV the middle bright spot is the flash, the left bright image is the TV show moon, then the lamps reflecting. It's somewhat matte but not as much as some others. It's enough to want to turn off reflecting lights but you can live with it if you can't. I'd say it's right between glossy and matte. This is the 60" BTW.

Thanks! I pulled the trigger on the UN60EH6000. Should be delivered next week so "I'll be back".

If any of you have not tried this give it a shot along with toning down the TV basic settings of Back Light, Brightness, Contrast and Color.

Just a suggestion for all of those buying these great TVs. The use of what is called a "bias" light source placed behind the TV is an often ignored great asset for optimum viewing and cost little. You can even try it if you have a small bedroom table lamp, a clamp on utility lamp from a home supply store or any other lamp socket you may have around. Then, use a small compact florescent spiral 13 watt Bright white (3500K) or even a Warm white (2700K) in the lamp. Try and center the light behind the TV. Also, turn off or reposition any lamps, lights in the room, especially ceiling lights. Even lights that shine into the TV area from another room. Any other lights should be aimed at the walls or the ceiling if you must have some other light other than the "bias" light behind the TV. Using this technique has helped me for many years even when using and old 36" CRT TV. It greatly helps perceived black level by allowing you to set the TV back light lower, as well as Brightness and Contrast. The "bias" light should be positioned behind the TV so that it lights up both the wall area and some of the ceiling about the TV.

It really is the best thing you can do to optimize viewing especially at night. Also, avoid gaming or watching in an all dark room, unless back light is set VERY low. Avoid any lights that can shine directly onto the TV screen or even into your eyes form the sides of the room.

The Disney WOW disc does a great job of explaining much of this. The idea is that the human eye responds best under this type of lighting. Many people like the dramatic effect of an all dark room, and it may seem attractive initially, but really results in long term eye strain and even after a few hours degrades optimum perceived viewing. So you neither want a room with light sources directly hitting the TV screen, nor an all dark room. The exception would be a dedicated home theater with a projection type TV and separate screen.

The Disney WOW disc, AVS HD 709 disc or other discs are a great aid to help with making Media Assisted Settings on any TV.
Edited by Phase700B - 9/7/12 at 4:33pm

FYI there is a minor difference between Standard and Movie, even after calibrating both separately to look the same: Standard mode tweaks the gamma slightly, so that it's lower in the dark range and higher in the bright range. With Movie mode, the gamma is a solid 2.16 (or 2.26 with gamma -1) throughout the entire range.

In other words, Standard will have more contrast in the mid-range but lose contrast in the low & high end. Movie will look exactly as intended.

I was able to see the differences using HCFR and my ColorMunki colorimeter.

Hi folks,

I recently got a UA46EH6030 for HTPC and Xbox360 use. The 2 sources are connected to a Marantz NR1402 receiver via HDMI and the receiver is connected to HMDI1/DVI on the TV. A slight issue we're having is that the TV doesn't detect the HTPC when I cycle the HTPC off and on via the 'suspend' function via the HTPC remote. The TV shows a black screen and a message that the input was not detected. If I physically reset the PC or switch its power on and off, then the TV detects it. The Xbox works fine, since I assume it has no "suspend' function, as the HTPC does. The receiver pushes the HTPC sound fine both cases, so I doubt the issue lies there. However, I will try connecting the HTPC directly to the TV later as a test

I'm almost sure that this issue has been mentioned previously, however I don't find anything via the forum's search option

Well after keeping my 60" a month I decided to try something else. The off angle viewing angle was too bad for me. Blacks would get extremely grey and blotchy at off angle. I'm going to try out the ST50.

Well, if you still have those bright lights shinning on the screen like you did in the picture you posted awhile ago, the glossy screen on the ST50 will be a real issue. Did you try the EH6000 with backlight, brightness, and contrast turned down to optimize black levels? Did you get rid of any glaring lights shinning directly onto the screen and also into your eyes from the sides or from any ceiling lights? We don't know because because we got no response.



And you haven't posted any basic settings so we don't know where you have the back light, brightness, and contrast set on your EH6000. Many people go about buying a TV and don't realize the need to control room lighting for best picture quality. Then they try several TVs until they stumble upon some correct practices but still blame the TV when it may have been the lack of something as simple as room lighting that caused much of their issues.

Sorry I missed your reply. If you look at my photo on the floor behind the center there is a led light that shines on the wall behind the tv when I watch. I turned on all my lights to get that photo to take a picture of my new speakers for a buddy. I never watch with the lights on. I had brightness at 44 and contrast at 100 on all inputs but I adjusted CCC on my htpc a couple points different. Backlight was around 14 for everything. I have some pretty big off angle seats and contrast just goes bad. I had a rear projection before so it's very noticeable now. I liked everything else but that. I have a Sony hx850 upstairs and a older samsung lcd in the bedroom that I don't notice the issue with those at all and I sit at a greater angle with the Sony. Blacks are jet black at 45 degrees.

No big deal ill try something else. If the Panasonic doesn't work out I'm going to try the samsung 6500 and if that doesn't I'm going to take out a 2nd mortgage and get the 65" Sony 929

Is one color pixel format better than the other for PC?

Which black level would be best for a standalone bluray player?

I'm picking up a 60EH6000 to replace my LG 55LM7600 tonight.

I prefer to set the color range to automatic so that it matches the input range. I find forcing a different range is just a source of problems with a lot of different combinations.

Remember to look here to calibrate your new set fairly easily
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1395734/official-samsung-unxxeh6000-owners-thread/420#post_22233258

Thanks for the info!

Unfortunately, Best Buy couldn't find any in the back even though their system showed they had 1 in stock (online inventory showed 0 yesterday, in stock today, for me). Won't be able to go back until Saturday.

I almost bought a Panasonic ST50 instead- he was strongly pushing plasmas, but I told him my concerns with image retention. He had no idea what that was, and thought I meant burn-in, which he guaranteed would never happen on the new models. He gave me his best sales pitch, and sounded so confident, but I remember that I knew more than him, so I wait for Saturday

Picked up mine Tuesday night, woohoo! Still in the box though. Wife's car headlight burned out Wednesday night, had to change (took hours and cut hands due to size of car), dog got sick Thursday and steamed carpets, hopefully I can get it out of the box tonight. It's just sitting there staring at me.

I would do normal on the PC but you need to make sure the PC is outputting full RGB as well to match. You will notice if you are off if you have drastic brightness settings between your TV input and the Computer input. Basically this is blacker than black output. Since I had my TV input and HTPC input sharing an input because I had both going through my receiver I just set the HDMI level to low and the computer to RGB limited. I didn't notice any difference in the slides between normal and low settings. Also I don't think movies even do those deep black levels although the computer and computer games probably do. So if you just have your computer on the input I would do normal for that input.

Also is response to your second post I am having a ST50 delivered today. Feel free to PM me if you want my impressions. I read all the IR stuff and I don't think there will be a problem.

Will do, sightseeker

I just called best buy again to see if they got it in stock, and they said the 60eh6000 is being deleted from their system. I asked why and they said that usually means it is being replaced by a new model. Any thoughts?

It's probably the EH6070.

Ah, they're finally going to get in a 60EH6070? I thought those only went up to 55", but maybe not

I think you're right. Maybe they're going to release a new model entirely. With the track record for Samsung in 2012 I can't imagine how good it would be if they do. I've been loyal to Samsung for the last 5 yrs but this year they've really set the bar low for TVs, including the EH6000 and High-End ES Models.

We ordered 1 of the UN65EH6000FXZA 65" Samsungs as soon as the Store could get it for us...
Put it in our living room & it's pretty cool.
The 8000 series didn't impress me either, except for the extra price..
Only complaint is the 2 HDMI ports but i was aware going in.
We didn't need or want 3-D so this 6000 @ $2K made much more sense....
Actually considered the Sharp 82",
We have a 92" Mits in transit for our Family room, that ought to solve my viewing pleasure...
The set the Smai 6000 replaced was a Sami DLI 61" that got the dreaded white dots, 16 to 18 of them !!!
We will be gettint the 6000 calibrated in mid-October, we'll see if that helps Sami !!

.

Just set up my new UN60EH6000.... first odd thing noticed: It's tilted back about 5 degrees on the stand. Is this normal? All screws in tight. Thx in advance.

No. I currently have mine wall mounted but I did have it on the stand for about a week and was straight. No tilting in either direction.

The 60EH6000 is $1299 at Best Buy this week, so if you purchased it in the last 30 days, get a price adjustment. It's on page 2 of this week's ad. Why would this be on page 2 if both Best Buy's here told me last Friday that the product is being deleted from their system? Is the ad just to clear them out? I wish we knew what was replacing it.