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Official Samsung UNXXEH6000 Owners' Thread - Page 27

post #781 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostremote View Post

Just a quick update. I did get the eh6030, but I have sent in back already. Despite some better motion handling though the AMP (and the 6030 in the uk has this) its overal PQ was not as good as my 46 eh5000 (less good with contrast and not as good with blacks). Both were/are 01 Samsung panel smpva versions (checked in the service menu). The 6030 set was also far less robust than the 5000 in terms of build quality. So I'm sticking with my 5 series which is a great 'value' TV.

I agree with you that the EH5000 is probably the best bargain of the bunch. For the price you still get a very nice S-PVA panel (hopefully) that has impressive contrast, blacks, and viewing angles. And it uses direct lit LEDs instead of edge lit., and has a good looking design with a very thing bezel.

The extra features in the higher models are nice, but they aren't that important to me....I only want to pay for the best "dumb" panel for the price.

My old 2008 32" Toshiba I came from actually cost me about $50-100 more then the new 40" EH5000 did. My previous Toshiba had some sort of VA panel, and while the blacks were good at the time they now look very grey next to the EH5000. The blacks really are vastly superior on the EH5000. The Tosh had some noticeable smearing on dark scenes that always bothered me, but the motion is much improved on the EH5000 - nothing bothers me, even on dark scenes.

I'm actually surprised at how much a difference 4 years has made for LCDs. I was expecting much more minor improvements in PQ, and the price has really come down on them.


The EH5000 is just as good as I was hoping it would be, which is better than I was expecting it to be. Given the price I paid for a set like this, I can't complain at all.
post #782 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by [omen] View Post

The reason is because increasing sharpness is technically adding information to the signal, it's not preserving the original signal. If one is trying to judge or appreciate the value of a signal, one would want to represent that original signal as faithfully as possible. Hence all the concern for proper calibration. You're preserving the original intent of the filmmaker, producer, etc.
The way they increase sharpness, at least historically, was by increasing the contrast at edges. At a minimal setting this is pretty, well, minimal. At a maximum setting, however, you can see hard white and black edges added to the existing edges to increase the contrast. This additional information is the NG stuff we're trying to avoid.
+1. The pictures are so good on these new tvs that they dont need any increase in sharpness. Particularly after a good calibration. Some prefer to add a little according to taste but generally if you go beyond 20 or so you adversely affect the calibrated picture.
post #783 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelud View Post

I've been watching the new tv this evening . . . .

I have a question about the 'sharpness' setting. A couple of the expert reviewers(CNET, etc) have sharpness set to zero in their list of ideal settings, but when I set it that low the picture loses all the crispness and doesn't look very good. Why do the experts have it set to zero?

Often times people, even experts, assume that a "zero" setting for the sharpness control is ideal because they assume it neither adds nor subtracts any attributes to the video signal. However, each TV manufacturer has different controls so there is no way to know what the "zero" point is for the above stated situation. Purists will tell you to set it at zero, or to use a sharpness test pattern on a video test disc such as Digital Video Essentials, Spears & Munsil, Disney WOW, of the free AVS HD709 test disk available here on AVS. Again, however, each test disc uses different test patterns to make this sharpness setting. Also, some say it depends on the distance you normally view the TV at. Others say to get as close to the TV as you can and make sure no "hallows" or outlines appear around objects on the screen or the test pattern. It is a subject of much consternation because it is somewhat subjective and not something easily defined in the realm of "video science" which bothers some folks to no end . To be sure, there is always a lot of opinion ( and vehement arguments) on this setting since it is more subjective and also may be dependent on the visual accuity and the person viewing such test patterns. So. . . what to do?

It is always best to use a test pattern followed up by watching some familiar source material in a movie of your choice and possibly use things like the white letters on a black background during credits at the end of a movie. Some also like to use another picture mode when watching sports, for instance, to provide a more vivid appearance. In the end, you are the one to decide no matter what any video gurus, experts, or test patterns may tell you.smile.gif

Unless you have a photo accurate special purpose monitor, I wouldn't get to picky about it and worried you are setting it wrong. It's your TV for you to enjoy. So, relax and enjoy!wink.gif
Edited by Phase700B - 10/24/12 at 5:27am
post #784 of 2545
Would the picture on my new tv be hurt much by the signal going through two splitters? The signal first goes through a 2-way splitter, then a 4-way.
post #785 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelud View Post

Would the picture on my new tv be hurt much by the signal going through two splitters? The signal first goes through a 2-way splitter, then a 4-way.

Is it from an antenna or from a cable source? Without going into specific db losses, basically, every time you pass an RF signal through a splitter you reduce the signal amount. So, in a two way splitter, you can think of is as the signal is getting cut in half. Pass it again through a 4 way splitter and that half signal now gets cut down to 1/4 of that. So, doing so would essentially reduce the signal to about 1/8 or 12.5 % of whatever the original signal level was. In other words, with the 2 way and 4 way splitters you are using, the signal is reduced about 87.5%. Not so good. You would probably not be able to get all the TV channels possible by doing so.

An alternative would be to use a signal booster with a built in 4 way splitter or just a high gain 15 to 25db signal booster along with the separate 4 was splitter. This way, you would at least get about 7.5db gain or boost to each port on the 4 way splitter.

A good way to check how much you might be loosing would be to remove all splitters and use a a couple of coax couplers to provide a direct hook up to the TV , scan all possible channels you can get, and then compare that with what you get with all the splitters connected as you now have.
Edited by Phase700B - 10/24/12 at 6:49am
post #786 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Is it from an antenna or from a cable source?

It is a Mediacom cable signal that goes through the two splitters then an HD box before reaching the tv. I certainly wasn't wowed by the quality of the picture while watching last night, and my Dad says the same thing. He said it just isn't as good as the image on one of his friend's Vizio tvs. I think his friend has a satellite dish. I'll try temporarily removing at least one splitter to see if the image improves any.
Edited by Kelud - 10/24/12 at 6:58am
post #787 of 2545
Well, Since the TV is digital, signal loss would usually only result in loss of channels, which probably would not be the case coming from a cable unit. You either get an image or you don't. Also, unless it is a High Definition cable box, you are probably looking at SD (standard definition) TV images. And the larger the screen, the worse SD will generally look because of the bigger pixel size on the LCD panel. Also, some HDTVs do not deisplay SD images as well as others.

You can also try a couple of different picture modes the TV has along with toned down Brightness, Contrast and especially Advanced settings where picture enhancements may actually degrade image quality.
post #788 of 2545
The cable channels are definitely in HD. I'll try messing with some of the settings.

Does anyone know how to get rid of the video source info box that pops up when switching channels? I really don't need to be constantly notified that I'm watching 720p.
post #789 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelud View Post

The cable channels are definitely in HD. I'll try messing with some of the settings.
Does anyone know how to get rid of the video source info box that pops up when switching channels? I really don't need to be constantly notified that I'm watching 720p.

Ok, While I'm not familiar with your particular cable box, here's the thing. Does the cable box have an HDMI output? If it is HD, then it probably does. But that also means while it will deliver HD content from the HDMI connector, most likely it will deliver 480i through the RF coax connection. That said, the "720p" display on your screen may be from the cable box itself indicating it is a 720p source signal. If you connect a DVD or Blu-ray player up to the TV is the "720p" or some other designation also still on the screen? If not, then it is probably from the cable box. There should be a way to select an actual Info display on the TV to see what resolution signal it is actually getting from the cable box. Do you actually tune the channel using the built in TV tuner, or have the TV set to say, Channel 3 or 4 and tune the TV channels by using the cable box remote control?
post #790 of 2545
The techs replaced the mainboard and some wires on the un40eh6000 and the new mainboard seems to have 1014 firmware but it doesnt seem to have made a difference.
post #791 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

sounds like the UK sets are different... for me, the TS01 46" 6030 is clearly superior to the TS02 46" 5000

Yeah, possibly - both panels were S01 versions. I just felt that with the 6030 I had, it didn't match the eh5000 for overall PQ, even after self calibrating with my DVE disc. For example I had to lower the brightnessby five points and reduce the gamma to -1 to get anywhere near the black levels I had on the 5000 (where gamma is at 0 and brightness at 45).Even the contrast had to be set higher on the 6030 and I just couldn't get it to look as good as the 5000 on HD or SD. What is strange is that the 6030 has little info on it anywhere so its difficult to get a variety of perspectives on its PQ. How does it compare to the eh6000 for example? Also, I wonder why it is now available in the US, while its been in the UK for quite a while - though even here it is not now widely available!
post #792 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicolom View Post

I agree with you that the EH5000 is probably the best bargain of the bunch. For the price you still get a very nice S-PVA panel (hopefully) that has impressive contrast, blacks, and viewing angles. And it uses direct lit LEDs instead of edge lit., and has a good looking design with a very thing bezel.
The extra features in the higher models are nice, but they aren't that important to me....I only want to pay for the best "dumb" panel for the price.
My old 2008 32" Toshiba I came from actually cost me about $50-100 more then the new 40" EH5000 did. My previous Toshiba had some sort of VA panel, and while the blacks were good at the time they now look very grey next to the EH5000. The blacks really are vastly superior on the EH5000. The Tosh had some noticeable smearing on dark scenes that always bothered me, but the motion is much improved on the EH5000 - nothing bothers me, even on dark scenes.
I'm actually surprised at how much a difference 4 years has made for LCDs. I was expecting much more minor improvements in PQ, and the price has really come down on them.
The EH5000 is just as good as I was hoping it would be, which is better than I was expecting it to be. Given the price I paid for a set like this, I can't complain at all.

Cheers. Exactly right. My 46 eh5000 is a superb set and the 5000 series probably can't be beaten for PQ at its price point (especially with the spva panel). My only isssue is that there is some motion blur when I watch football in SD transmissions. But, thankfully most of the games I can get in HD too, where the blur is not significant. It would be nice though to have the option of AMP to custom set blur/judder. This is why I tried the 6030 - I would have tried the 6000, but that's not available in the UK!!confused.gif
post #793 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Ok, While I'm not familiar with your particular cable box, here's the thing. Does the cable box have an HDMI output? If it is HD, then it probably does. But that also means while it will deliver HD content from the HDMI connector, most likely it will deliver 480i through the RF coax connection. That said, the "720p" display on your screen may be from the cable box itself indicating it is a 720p source signal. If you connect a DVD or Blu-ray player up to the TV is the "720p" or some other designation also still on the screen? If not, then it is probably from the cable box. There should be a way to select an actual Info display on the TV to see what resolution signal it is actually getting from the cable box. Do you actually tune the channel using the built in TV tuner, or have the TV set to say, Channel 3 or 4 and tune the TV channels by using the cable box remote control?

Yes, I have the box hooked up to the tv with an HDMI cable and I use the hd box to change channels. The source info pop-up is definitely from the tv and not the HD box. I can see the same pop-up at any time by pressing the info button on the tv's remote. My first box actually stopped working yesterday so I exchanged it for another, this one a different brand. I did not see the pop-up with the new hd box, but that actually helped me to figure out what the issue was. The tv shows the source-info pop-up whenever the source is changed. So when I am watching a 720p channel and change to another 720p channel I don't get the pop-up. If I change to a 1080i channel I do get the pop-up. The first HD box I had was set to send the native source through to the tv. The new hd box was set to scale the incoming source to 720p and send that to the tv, so I wasn't getting the pop-up anymore because the source was always the same. The pop-ups aside, is it best to set the HD box to scale the source to 720p or 1080i, or send the native source to the tv, does it not really matter? If native is best, it looks like I'd have to put up with the pop-ups because I don't see any way to turn that off.
post #794 of 2545
I have a couple more observations after watching more tv today. First, I'm not finding any auto motion plus setting to my liking. Even the "blur reduction: 10 / judder reduction: 0" custom setting some have recommended mostly just seems to create some unwanted effects. So far I'm thinking it may be best with all the motion stuff turned off. If so, I'm not sure what we gained over the eh5000. I've also noticed there is a bug with the motion setting. I think I may have read about someone else having a similar issue in this forum. It seems that even when I have the auto motion plus set to custom(10/0) or off, each time I turn the tv on it is right back in smooth mode despite what the setting says. To turn it off I have to go back into the settings, turn it on, leave, go back to the settings, and turn it off again. Could a firmware upgrade fix this?

A second issue I've discovered is at least one of my channels(ESPN) has a audio/video sync problem. It is pretty obvious on this channel when people are talking the lip movement is slightly behind the audio. I have only watched a handful of channels so far so I don't know if any others have this issue. This issue has been there with two different hd cable boxes. This is certainly something I'm not willing to live with. Could a software upgrade possibly fix this or is it just a defect in the tv? There is no issue with any channel on my 26" sony lcd in the kitchen.
Edited by Kelud - 10/26/12 at 7:53am
post #795 of 2545
I was just reading the user manual for my tv and noticed a section warning about uneven pixel wear and burn-in due to non-full-screen content and static graphics. How much of a problem is this with an LED LCD compared to a plasma tv? One of the reasons I got the LCD over a plasma is my Dad watches a fair amount of SD programming with the black side bars as well as news channel programming with static graphics and I was worried about image retention/burn-in. I also noticed in the warning it suggested to reduce the contrast to reduce the chance of any issues, but then I see the provided settings from people in this forum and experts at cnet, etc showing contrast maxed out or close to it.

I appreciate the info/help you guys are providing.
Edited by Kelud - 10/25/12 at 4:39pm
post #796 of 2545
Folks, would you be so kind as to read this blog post which seeks to reduce or eliminate judder and blur by changing our blu-ray/media players' setting to 1080i and let me know if it makes sense?

I'm trying and my eye may not be fooling me but your input could help. I've switched to 1080i on my Samsung 46-6000 series, enabled film mode and all seems well so far if not a night-and-day difference, I think there is a subtle improvement.

Testing various sources (HD video files from USB, Netflix and blu-ray/DVD). The weird part is that the res. display definitely shows 60i on streaming but it appears just as smooth - could this be the Samsung's successful processing as the article says? Thanks.

ETA: 1080i output on my Philips blu-ray, Film Mode on Auto in Samsung pic settings, AMP set to Clear as usual (I may experiment with this more later), and by golly, I think this is the best it's ever looked. The 60i thing must be a deceptive readout - motion looks clearer than ever on blu-rays, video files and Netflix. Try it!

ETAA: I may yet change my mind on this but I think it looks even smoother with high-quality sources with NO AMP at all! I think the "film mode" setting is smoothing everything out that has 24p sources (GAME OF THRONES blu-ray, THE DARK KNIGHT, THE SHINING hedge maze chase at night which is an acid test and is now crystal clear) better than any of the additional settings! Action scenes keep their focus and my eyes are taking in many more details with new clarity! Can anyone else confirm?
Edited by bewlaybrothers - 10/25/12 at 6:14pm
post #797 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelud View Post

I was just reading the user manual for my tv and noticed a section warning about uneven pixel wear and burn-in due to non-full-screen content and static graphics. How much of a problem is this with an LED LCD compared to a plasma tv? One of the reasons I got the LCD over a plasma is my Dad watches a fair amount of SD programming with the black side bars as well as news channel programming with static graphics and I was worried about image retention/burn-in. I also noticed in the warning it suggested to reduce the contrast to reduce the chance of any issues, but then I see the provided settings from people in this forum and experts at cnet, etc showing contrast maxed out or close to it.
I appreciate the info/help you guys are providing.
Pixel wear and burn in are strictly plasma issues.
post #798 of 2545
The eh6000 I had did not dim the screen when black was displayed. The eh6030 seems to.
Is there any way to turn this annoy- I mean feature off?
post #799 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Pixel wear and burn in are strictly plasma issues.

They put that there to cover their butts.
LCDs can get some burn in, but the cases are so extreme, it isn't an issue as Bond said.
post #800 of 2545
Does anyone have a un**eh6000 TS02/S-PVA panel tv with the avengers blu-ray notice smearing/trailing on camera paning or objects/people moving in front of the camera in the opening night time scenes?
post #801 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkshot View Post

The eh6000 I had did not dim the screen when black was displayed. The eh6030 seems to.
Is there any way to turn this annoy- I mean feature off?

My EH5000 doesn't do it in Movie mode. Actually it still does it if it's a pure black screen. I think it's called Motion lighting in the menus, but turning it off didn't do anything.
post #802 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

mine (the 5000) did on pure black screens in Movie mode... I never encountered motion lighting in Movie mode, as it's grayed out and disabled there
did you ever use RGB colorspace instead of YCbCr to see if that helped?

Not sure if your asking me or Hawkshot.... I actually don't mind it. Of course, If I wanted it off I would just use movie mode or "PC" mode. If you want it somewhere between ON and OFF, using RGB + limited levels seems to really reduce the threshold for when it decides to engage. RGB + full levels seems to trigger it just as much as YCbCr.

I think any and every mode will dim on a pure black screen though. That's something written in the firmware. Motion lighting isn't an option for Movie mode (greyed out). It is for Standard mode, but it seems like whether you have it set to ON or OFF it still takes effect.
post #803 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelud View Post

So far I'm thinking it may be best with all the motion stuff turned off. If so, I'm not sure what we gained over the eh5000.


Not much really. EH5000 has better PQ (in my experience) and is cheaper!
post #804 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post

I had asked a similar question before on AVS here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1357779/eliminating-2-3-pulldown-judder-on-a-60hz-tv

Thanks - I think this is an important discussion and I'm continuing it there. Please join in!
post #805 of 2545
Hi Everyone,

I hope you can clarify something for me. Does the EH6030 have a 60Hz panel or a 120Hz panel? According to every retail site I visited, they cite 120Hz but users are reporting no AMP and service menu indicates a 60Hz panel. I am a bit confused. Is there a way to confirm either way?
post #806 of 2545
Picked up the UN60EH6000 today. Not sure if I'm completely in love with it yet, but I'll def be reading through the thread this week. Just wanted to say Hi!

Def needs a little adjusting out of the box. While watching an HD channel, my wife said, "I dunno it doesn't look like a movie, it's weird... I can't explain it."

I said, "Does it look like a soap opera?" and her reply was, "yeahhhh... something". Guess I'll do some adjusting. I got it for a price I couldn't pass up! smile.gif
post #807 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drtrigsman View Post

Picked up the UN60EH6000 today. Not sure if I'm completely in love with it yet, but I'll def be reading through the thread this week. Just wanted to say Hi!
Def needs a little adjusting out of the box. While watching an HD channel, my wife said, "I dunno it doesn't look like a movie, it's weird... I can't explain it."
I said, "Does it look like a soap opera?" and her reply was, "yeahhhh... something". Guess I'll do some adjusting. I got it for a price I couldn't pass up! smile.gif

I have the 55" and had the same issue, but I changed all my settings to match Gexxxys from his post that you can find on page 11 or so of this thread, and now the picture quality is very nice...... thanks Gexxxxy!

Does anyone know how to find out which firm ware version is on this set,,, or is there any real reason to upgrade if its an older version?
post #808 of 2545
Go to software update and click the info button on the remote.

Clear mode was the necessity for the instant fix for the bizarre picture! Now... on to dialing it in. Really happy so far!
post #809 of 2545
Quote:
Originally Posted by TyphusM View Post

I have the 55" and had the same issue, but I changed all my settings to match Gexxxys from his post that you can find on page 11 or so of this thread, and now the picture quality is very nice...... thanks Gexxxxy!
Does anyone know how to find out which firm ware version is on this set,,, or is there any real reason to upgrade if its an older version?

Go to picture test. Choose yes or no, doesn't matter, and once you do there will be a screen with all the tv's info, including your firmware version.
post #810 of 2545
There are a couple open box versions of this TV at my local Best Buy. Can anyone clarify any differences between the following? Are there any differences?

UN40D6000S
UN40EH6000FXZA
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