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Getting my TV mounted perfectly centered

post #1 of 15
2/22/12 at 9:53am
Thread Starter 
Hi All,

I have a 6 foot wide notch in my living room wall where I currently have my TV mounted. I had the builder of my house put in a power box and tube to get cables from TV to my media cabinet. This box is attached to one of the studs in this notch. The problem is, the stud is not centered, so when I installed my wall mount, I couldn't center the portion that holds the TV, due to the power box being in the way. My question is what can I do about this? I thought that relocating the power box to the other side of the current stud it's on would help a bit, but I have the problem of the blue tube running to my media cabinet, which cannot change where it leads to. I have tried to find a wall plate that is completely flush to the wall so I can just mount the TV right on top of it (this would not obstruct my power outlets, just the hole where the cables come through). This will probably make more sense if you look at the photo, and I can provide more photos if it would be helpful.

I appreciate any input in this. Thanks!
LL
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post #2 of 15
2/22/12 at 12:14pm
Get a different TV mount..

Would a recessed outlet work? like suggested in this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=998437
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post #3 of 15
2/22/12 at 11:06pm
Thread Starter 
It might be hard to tell in the photo, but I already have a recessed box in the wall. The problem is the face plate that sticks out a little bit interferes with the wall mount being able to tighten against the wall in that location. I've also looked at other wall mounts, but most of the full motion mounts would have this problem I think. What I want is some kind of recessed option that has no face plate at all that sticks out if the wall. Is there anything like this?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 15
2/22/12 at 11:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewnd View Post

The problem is the face plate that sticks out a little bit interferes with the wall mount being able to tighten against the wall in that location. What I want is some kind of recessed option that has no face plate at all that sticks out if the wall. Is there anything like this?

Arlington TVBox. The trim plate is separate from the box and the outlet covers, so you can choose not to install it. It can be completely flush (recessed) with the edge of the drywall, but still have the line-voltage outlet covers in place...

Jeff
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post #5 of 15
2/23/12 at 6:47am
How far out of center is it? I just put up a TV in my bedroom on an articulating mount, and I could cheat it pretty far to the left or right. It doesn't look all that much different from yours
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post #6 of 15
2/23/12 at 9:27am
Thread Starter 
jautor, I will check out the box you mentioned. Nick, it's not far off center, but I have to have one of the articulating arms completely pressed up against the wall to compensate for it being off center. This doesn't allow me to get it as close to the wall as I would like, it also means I can't pull it out and rotate it around very easily.
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post #7 of 15
2/27/12 at 4:16am
Jeff, I was wondering what the difference was between the 2 Arlington designs.

I've had this one in my amazon cart for 2 weeks:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any issues with the one with the removable trim plate?
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post #8 of 15
2/27/12 at 4:24am
OP, add a single or 2 gang LV Ring on that side of the stud, for LV cables. Move power to the other side. The 2 different boxes can be positioned anywhere behind the TV. As long as the blue conduit is above the LV ring, the ring can be anywhere in the stud bay, and you'll be able to grab the cables.
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post #9 of 15
2/27/12 at 4:29am
How large is the TV? Can you move power above or below the mount, and still be hidden?
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post #10 of 15
2/27/12 at 7:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Jeff, I was wondering what the difference was between the 2 Arlington designs.

I've had this one in my amazon cart for 2 weeks:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any issues with the one with the removable trim plate?

Only that it doesn't look very nice without the trim plate... But since the only reason you don't install the trim plate is to be completely flush with the drywall to fit behind the TV, nope, no issues.

But you do have to position the 4-gang (probably true for the 2-gang removable trim as well) against a stud, since it's screwed in on one side, and has no other support. That's certainly a difference vs. the remodel boxes, which will hang on the drywall.

And here's a link to that model:

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-TVB6...ref=pd_cp_hi_0

Jeff
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post #11 of 15
2/27/12 at 12:31pm
From the online descriptions of the 2 4-gang Arlington boxes, it looks like both are old- or new-work, and both have wings/tabs to secure.

You're saying that one of them must be attached to a stud?

TVB613-1


DVFR4W-1


From the installation instructions for both, it seems that the box must be installed with the face plate, for retrofit/old-work. But, who says we can't attach it to a stud, for retrofit.

FWIW, install instructions for both found here:
http://www.av-outlet.com/en-us/dept_589.html

Since I'm working with a clean wall, I'll just position the box below the mount. Thanks for forcing me to read the instructions, Jeff! Something I needed to do, but have avoided.

OP, sorry for the hijack. Moving your box up or down may solve your problem, depending on the size of the TV.
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post #12 of 15
2/27/12 at 2:16pm
I'm using the 4-gang TVB613, for both new and old work. That model does NOT have the swing-out tabs for old work, which is why it must be screwed to a stud.

I've got them installed both with and without the faceplate. For the old work install, I cut a hole to truly locate the stud edge, then traced the outline of the box to get a nice fit, enlarging the opening as needed.

This shot of the rear (with the trim plate aka "flange" attached) is pretty clear:



Also, one of the side benefits of using the 3 or 4-gang box is that with that much drywall removed, it's very easy to get a drill in place to access adjacent stud bays if needed. Which for my most recent addition, I did to pull power from the other side of the stud without having to do any drywall repair.

Jeff
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post #13 of 15
2/27/12 at 2:26pm
Instructions show that screwing to a stud is not necessary - but that it requires the use of the faceplate.

http://www.av-outlet.com/images/arlington/tvb613.pdf

Faceplate/flange screws to drywall.

Who is your favorite display mount manufacturer?
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post #14 of 15
2/27/12 at 2:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Instructions show that screwing to a stud is not necessary - but that it requires the use of the faceplate.

Faceplate/flange screws to drywall.

Hmmmm... I wouldn't trust that at all - at least not without adding drywall anchors or something better than the supplied screws for the faceplate. To me it would seem like it could easily be pulled out of the wall unless it was secured/clamped (like the swivels would do).

But yeah, without the faceplate - gotta be attached to a stud.

Quote:
Who is your favorite display mount manufacturer?

(Remember I'm not a "paid professional" installer, so YMMV) I really like the Peerless mounts - they're well made, come with good instructions and are dirt cheap on the 'net. I've used one Monoprice mount and while it's fine, I do prefer the Peerless...

But my PJ is hanging from a Chief mount, of course!

Jeff
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post #15 of 15
2/28/12 at 5:51am
Thanks, Jeff!
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