15" Rythmik DIY questions

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post #1 of 4

2/25/12 at 1:07am

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175 Posts. Joined 3/2004
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Hi All:

I am interested in building a 15 sealed down firing sub from Rythmic and have a few questions in no special order.

1) Which driver and amp should I select, the 1501 (370W amp) or the 1510 (600W amp)?
2) Is it ok to install the sub on carpeted floor being down fired? I currently have a down firing ACI Titan which has a sheet of MDF separated from the bottom of the sub by 4 legs. I thought this sheet of MDF was to allow placement on a carpet.
3) Anyone have experience listening to both the Titian and the Rythmic?
4) According to Rhythmic the internal volume can be anywhere between 3-4 cuft. Is that regardless of driver 1501 or 1510? As volume is changed how is performance affected?
5) I would like to build the sub out of 1 MDF should that yield better performance compared to ¾
6) What is the internal volume displacement of the amp and driver so I can better calculate my total internal volume.
7) I am a bit confused as to where the bracing fits specified in the plans. Anyone have internal pic or breakout diagram of a Rhythmic sub based on their plan?
8) Finally why does the bracing use random shapes, circles, oval and squares?

Thanks Bob

post #2 of 4

2/25/12 at 6:46am

106 Posts. Joined 3/2010
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try here.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1238757&page=7

or here, Brian from rythmik joins in now and again. or it may be better just to call them.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...14550&page=186

post #3 of 4

2/25/12 at 6:51am

2,291 Posts. Joined 11/2010
Location: Minnesota
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I would definitely get the 600 watt amp. The bigger the cabinet the smaller any boost from equalization can be up to a point. I'm thinking of replacing my 12" DIY (I have a 15" DIY too) with a 15" Rythmic.

post #4 of 4

2/25/12 at 5:15pm

419 Posts. Joined 2/2004
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:

3) Anyone have experience listening to both the Titian and the Rythmic?

No, but I can tell you that Rythmik subs are very clean and "dry" sounding. I believe it is mostly due to the very low distortion above 40 Hz, the region that matters most for critical music listening. Distortion does rise below 40 Hz with sealed versions, but I have not found this to be an issue. I have not heard anything better. You can spend quite a bit more on subs without getting an improvement.

Quote:

5) I would like to build the sub out of 1” MDF should that yield better performance compared to ¾”

1" MDF is very heavy, much harder to work with, especially if lifting a sheet onto a roof rack, then off. I can run a whole sheet of 3/4" MDF through a table saw with help, but wouldn't try with 1". Although usually I lay it flat for the first cut.

You won't find a lot of improvement. Another way to go is cheap formply, especially if you are veneering your box. Painting OTOH would be a pest.

Bracing cut outs. Those aren't critical. You must let the bass move through the box and cut outs have a slight impact on box volume. The point is to meet those goals with minimum compromise on strength. Circles generally are best.

Bracing is simple in principle. Each panel must touch 4 sides of the box, you then have cut outs for the driver and amp, then you cut circles out for the bits that remain. You don't have to carefully follow the cut outs.

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