^ also no Dolby Digital Plus over toslink or coaxial outputs.
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Official Sony BDP-S590 and BDP-390 Thread - Page 93
Gear mentioned in this thread:
post #2762 of 3461
1/21/13 at 5:15am
- Selden Ball
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vampidemic 
The reason that the BDP-S590 is better in this area is because it has optical AND coaxial, which provides more flexibility for interfacing. Some devices only have optical inputs and/or a user may have a device with a limited number of inputs overall.
But yes, optical and coaxial send the same bits, so the sound quality will be exactly the same. Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD).

Quote:
The reason that the BDP-S590 is better in this area is because it has optical AND coaxial, which provides more flexibility for interfacing. Some devices only have optical inputs and/or a user may have a device with a limited number of inputs overall.
But yes, optical and coaxial send the same bits, so the sound quality will be exactly the same. Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD).
Optical does have the advantage that it provides better ground and noise isolation. This sometimes can be helpful if your audio system has ground loop problems. If your player hasn't introduced a ground loop into your audio system, though, then it's irrelevant. I.e. for most people the ground isolation is irrelevant.
post #2763 of 3461
1/21/13 at 7:00am
Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)
post #2764 of 3461
1/21/13 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextstepr 
Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)

Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)
I came across the same thing on the 590. My username for almost everything I access on secure websites includes an underscore and there is not one available on Sony's on-screen keyboard. Pretty short-sided of Sony if you ask me.
post #2765 of 3461
1/21/13 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nextstepr 
Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)

Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)
Just tried fooling around with my BDP-S590, tell your dad when he needs a dash (-) from the onscreen keyboard to hit the blue key on the Sony remote, it will toggle the keyboard between alphanumeric and symbols. Red button for capital/lower case, Green button for Backspace, blue button for alphanumeric/symbol toggle.
If he has a USB computer keyboard, he may be able to use it on the front USB port of the BDP-BX59. I have a generic USB keyboard and it worked on my Sony BDP-S590. It might save him from having to change his wi-fi password. Good luck with it.
From the Sony BDPS590_BX59.pdf manual:
• Some USB devices may not work with this
player.
• The player can recognize Mass Storage
Class (MSC) devices (such as flash memory
or an HDD), Still Image Capture Device
(SICD) class devices and 101 keyboard.
• To avoid data corruption or damage to the
USB memory or devices, turn off the player
when connecting or removing the USB
memory or devices.
Edited by donebu - 1/21/13 at 10:19am
post #2766 of 3461
1/21/13 at 10:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by donebu 
I'm not sure how your father can get a dash with the onscreen keyboard, but if he has a USB computer keyboard, he may be able to use it on the front USB port of the BDP-BX59. I have a generic USB keyboard and it worked on my Sony BDP-S590. It might save him from having to change his wi-fi password. Good luck with it.
From the Sony BDPS590_BX59.pdf manual:
• Some USB devices may not work with this
player.
• The player can recognize Mass Storage
Class (MSC) devices (such as flash memory
or an HDD), Still Image Capture Device
(SICD) class devices and 101 keyboard.
• To avoid data corruption or damage to the
USB memory or devices, turn off the player
when connecting or removing the USB
memory or devices.

I'm not sure how your father can get a dash with the onscreen keyboard, but if he has a USB computer keyboard, he may be able to use it on the front USB port of the BDP-BX59. I have a generic USB keyboard and it worked on my Sony BDP-S590. It might save him from having to change his wi-fi password. Good luck with it.
From the Sony BDPS590_BX59.pdf manual:
• Some USB devices may not work with this
player.
• The player can recognize Mass Storage
Class (MSC) devices (such as flash memory
or an HDD), Still Image Capture Device
(SICD) class devices and 101 keyboard.
• To avoid data corruption or damage to the
USB memory or devices, turn off the player
when connecting or removing the USB
memory or devices.
Interesting...I will have to try this. Thanks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nextstepr 
Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)

Maybe someone could help. My dad just got a BDP-BX59 and I was trying to help him set up the WiFi. The on-screen keyboard he gets to type his Wireless password doesn't give him any - (dashes) and he has two dashes in his password. Can someone help me figure out how to have him type a - mark for his password. He says he only sees the . @ / and : marks in the onscreen keyboard but I just think he is missing something. Searched the manual but that was no help. ( i am not near him to be able to stop buy and don't want to change his Wifi password on the router)
Push the BLUE button on the remote until you see symbols >>>
The blue button toggles Capitals, lowercase, symbols, etc.
Hit the "-" button
Thats it.
- apw2607
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Quote:
You need to look again !!!
post #2769 of 3461
1/21/13 at 11:44am
post #2770 of 3461
1/21/13 at 2:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott 
You do that at Netflix's "Manage Quality" page. The only problem is that there have only been 3 tiers of quality, and the middle tier, called "Better" caps things at 1300 Mbps, below the 1750 Kbps best SD quality (that 1300 Kbps is probably based on 1050 Kbps video + 192 Kbps sound--see the end of this Netflix blog post).
Your ISP is one of a select few who've signed up for access to Netflix's Open Connect CDN (Content Delivery Network), which gives you access to the new "Super HD" video encodes, 4300 Kbps and 5800 Kbps. Most of the rest of the country is currently restricted to the 3850 Kbps 1080p video encode, which you might actually be able to handle, being only 66% of that 5800 Kbps one. For people like you, Netflix may have added a new tier on the "Manage Quality" page to lock out Super HD; check it out and tell us if there is one.
Otherwise the only way to restrict the Sony BDP to Netflix's 720p encode is to set the output resolution to 720p, which would be annoying since you'd have to switch it back to 1080p to get full PQ for BD playback.

You do that at Netflix's "Manage Quality" page. The only problem is that there have only been 3 tiers of quality, and the middle tier, called "Better" caps things at 1300 Mbps, below the 1750 Kbps best SD quality (that 1300 Kbps is probably based on 1050 Kbps video + 192 Kbps sound--see the end of this Netflix blog post).
Your ISP is one of a select few who've signed up for access to Netflix's Open Connect CDN (Content Delivery Network), which gives you access to the new "Super HD" video encodes, 4300 Kbps and 5800 Kbps. Most of the rest of the country is currently restricted to the 3850 Kbps 1080p video encode, which you might actually be able to handle, being only 66% of that 5800 Kbps one. For people like you, Netflix may have added a new tier on the "Manage Quality" page to lock out Super HD; check it out and tell us if there is one.
Otherwise the only way to restrict the Sony BDP to Netflix's 720p encode is to set the output resolution to 720p, which would be annoying since you'd have to switch it back to 1080p to get full PQ for BD playback.
NF is in the process of changing their encoding to lower the max bitrate used. i've already noticed that the bitrate via PC is lower than before. they _say_ that image quality will be the same
post #2771 of 3461
1/21/13 at 3:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by apw2607 
You don't have anyone else on your network sucking up bandwidth ? Whether local or your external connection ?
There's another data point. See how much external bandwidth the 390 sees.
Goto > network > opera tv store
Goto more apps
"Use" category
And launch screen and network test
Run the Internet connection network test.

You don't have anyone else on your network sucking up bandwidth ? Whether local or your external connection ?
There's another data point. See how much external bandwidth the 390 sees.
Goto > network > opera tv store
Goto more apps
"Use" category
And launch screen and network test
Run the Internet connection network test.
thanks for the tip...I wondered if there was a way to test what the S390 sees from the inside.
I ran the test 5x and got an average of 5200 kb/s
I am assuming this is my problem, and the reason I never saw it before is that my ISP opened up a few more levels of HD video that my box cant handle....
So...it seems I am stuck...
- I currently only have 3 levels of streaming capabilities from Netflix which is way to coarse
- My S390 will not clamp down the input data rate even if I manually set the output resolution to 720p
- For some reason my S390 will only see half the bandwidth that I constantly get outside the box...
Any way to test the Xbox 360 B/W or the Dish Vip622 so I can compare against what the S390 sees??
thanks all for the help....this has been a most enlightening journey....
bama
post #2772 of 3461
1/21/13 at 3:59pm
Quote:
This would be good as it would give us more levels to look at as far as data rates are concerned.
Why doesnt Netflix just make 5 or 6 tiers and let people adjust the source based on their b/w That would solve a lot....
post #2773 of 3461
1/21/13 at 5:50pm
- michaeltscott
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Netflix had 720p encodes at 2350- and 3600 Kbps and a 1080p encode at 4800 Kbps for most HD titles. They've more or less completely replaced the 3600 Kbps 720p encodes with 3000 Kbps ones and the 4800 Kbps 1080p encodes with 3850 Kbps ones, encoded with some new technology that they got from a company called eyeIO, which supposedly delivers as-good-or-better quality in less bandwidth. Of course, they've offered absolutely no proof of that claim
. I've been trying to get forum member msgohan to use his HDMI capture card to get some frames for comparison with some that he captured last year of the old encodes.However, for some currently small subset of cable providers (including bamafamily's) they've also introduced some higher bit rate 1080p encodes that they're calling "Super HD", at 4300- and 5800 Kbps. bamafamily's problem is that his S390 is choking on that 5800 Kbps encode and he can't block it.
Edited by michaeltscott - 1/21/13 at 10:01pm
post #2774 of 3461
1/21/13 at 6:26pm
"Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD)."
So I know I am really naive + new about technology but it appears the advice I have been given was indeed wrong on many fronts. So, if I am understanding this correctly, if I can get sound through HDMI I should just do that? Am I understanding correctly? That makes life easier. Honestly I was told (and just believed it at the word go) I needed to upgrade the sound over HDMI. Good grief, I feel like a dork. I would just love extra confirmation on this before I move on so I am not a pin ball tossed around with personal preference vs. fact.
So I know I am really naive + new about technology but it appears the advice I have been given was indeed wrong on many fronts. So, if I am understanding this correctly, if I can get sound through HDMI I should just do that? Am I understanding correctly? That makes life easier. Honestly I was told (and just believed it at the word go) I needed to upgrade the sound over HDMI. Good grief, I feel like a dork. I would just love extra confirmation on this before I move on so I am not a pin ball tossed around with personal preference vs. fact.
post #2775 of 3461
1/21/13 at 6:49pm
- apw2607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaeltscott 
Netflix had 720p encodes at 2350- and 3600 Kbps and a 1080p encode at 4800 Kbps for most HD titles. They've more or less completely replaced the 3600 Kbps 720p encodes with 3000 Kbps one and the 4800 Kbps 1080p encodes with 3850 Kbps ones, encoded with some new technology that they got from a company called eyeIO, which supposedly delivers as-good-or-better quality in less bandwidth. Of course, they've offered absolutely no proof of that claim
. I've been trying to get forum member msgohan to use his HDMI capture card to get some frames for comparison with some that he captured last year, of the old eencodes.
However, for some currently small subset of cable providers (including bamafamily's) they've also introduced some higher bit rate 1080p encodes that they're calling "Super HD", at 4300- and 5800 Kbps. bamafamily's problem is that his S390 is choking on that 5800 Kbps encode and he can't block it.

Netflix had 720p encodes at 2350- and 3600 Kbps and a 1080p encode at 4800 Kbps for most HD titles. They've more or less completely replaced the 3600 Kbps 720p encodes with 3000 Kbps one and the 4800 Kbps 1080p encodes with 3850 Kbps ones, encoded with some new technology that they got from a company called eyeIO, which supposedly delivers as-good-or-better quality in less bandwidth. Of course, they've offered absolutely no proof of that claim
. I've been trying to get forum member msgohan to use his HDMI capture card to get some frames for comparison with some that he captured last year, of the old eencodes.However, for some currently small subset of cable providers (including bamafamily's) they've also introduced some higher bit rate 1080p encodes that they're calling "Super HD", at 4300- and 5800 Kbps. bamafamily's problem is that his S390 is choking on that 5800 Kbps encode and he can't block it.
Bamafamily - I think you should call netflix to see if they can help you. There's clearly a problem here on why your netflix client continually tries to pull the 5800 stream when you're bandwidth is actually less.
It's possible on the roll out of the new super HD streams they have not got everything in place. Many of these changes they can do at their end, and the clients are not required to be updated.
- apw2607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capnlando 
"Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD)."
So I know I am really naive + new about technology but it appears the advice I have been given was indeed wrong on many fronts. So, if I am understanding this correctly, if I can get sound through HDMI I should just do that? Am I understanding correctly? That makes life easier. Honestly I was told (and just believed it at the word go) I needed to upgrade the sound over HDMI. Good grief, I feel like a dork. I would just love extra confirmation on this before I move on so I am not a pin ball tossed around with personal preference vs. fact.

"Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD)."
So I know I am really naive + new about technology but it appears the advice I have been given was indeed wrong on many fronts. So, if I am understanding this correctly, if I can get sound through HDMI I should just do that? Am I understanding correctly? That makes life easier. Honestly I was told (and just believed it at the word go) I needed to upgrade the sound over HDMI. Good grief, I feel like a dork. I would just love extra confirmation on this before I move on so I am not a pin ball tossed around with personal preference vs. fact.
Sound over HDMI right now is as good as it gets ... Even though the analog crowd might thinks differently ... But their all still living in the 80's.
post #2778 of 3461
1/22/13 at 2:27am
post #2779 of 3461
1/22/13 at 2:52am
I know this might be slightly off topic for this particular thread, however I have been playing with the firefox web browser more and more lately and was wondering, why there wasn't a specific avs add-on, or if there was, how I could find it. ever since i've gotten into ios, I've enjoyed more and more, the concept of apps for specific things.
I've tried a few add-ons like facebook messenger, and Yoono, and they're nice for social netoworking, Does avs forum have specific threads i could use that have more of a computer/software theme, that aren't specifically geared to A/V devices only?
Thanks.
I've tried a few add-ons like facebook messenger, and Yoono, and they're nice for social netoworking, Does avs forum have specific threads i could use that have more of a computer/software theme, that aren't specifically geared to A/V devices only?
Thanks.
post #2780 of 3461
1/22/13 at 5:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devianza 
Is anyone else experiencing any issues connecting to any of the SEN services?
They were working last month when I used them last but this week, I keep getting the re-connect pop up.
Vudu, Youtube, Vimeo, Crackle, and all the other services connect just fine but when I try to pull up the SEN portal, or music or video unlimited, I'm told the service is down and to try and re-connect. I tried power cycling the modem to see if its a routing issue, didn't seem to help.
EDIT: Nevermind.. I just checked it tonight and all SEN services seem to be operational again. Maybe my isp just had a weird routing issue or some such.

Is anyone else experiencing any issues connecting to any of the SEN services?
They were working last month when I used them last but this week, I keep getting the re-connect pop up.
Vudu, Youtube, Vimeo, Crackle, and all the other services connect just fine but when I try to pull up the SEN portal, or music or video unlimited, I'm told the service is down and to try and re-connect. I tried power cycling the modem to see if its a routing issue, didn't seem to help.
EDIT: Nevermind.. I just checked it tonight and all SEN services seem to be operational again. Maybe my isp just had a weird routing issue or some such.
Sony PSN was down for maintenance for about 24-36 hours for most users. It was during that same time you had your problems so I don't know if it uses the same servers to access the content or not but that's a pretty odd coincidence if not.
Quote:
It's the industy's own fault for telling us originally that optical was the way to go for surround and how HDMI could only do pcm stereo and then changing the specs. Damn technology and progress!

I had the same issue when I first got up to date equipment until AVS taught me different.
post #2781 of 3461
1/22/13 at 8:34am
- Selden Ball
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacinMan 
I know this might be slightly off topic for this particular thread, however I have been playing with the firefox web browser more and more lately and was wondering, why there wasn't a specific avs add-on, or if there was, how I could find it. ever since i've gotten into ios, I've enjoyed more and more, the concept of apps for specific things.
I've tried a few add-ons like facebook messenger, and Yoono, and they're nice for social netoworking, Does avs forum have specific threads i could use that have more of a computer/software theme, that aren't specifically geared to A/V devices only?
Thanks.

I know this might be slightly off topic for this particular thread, however I have been playing with the firefox web browser more and more lately and was wondering, why there wasn't a specific avs add-on, or if there was, how I could find it. ever since i've gotten into ios, I've enjoyed more and more, the concept of apps for specific things.
I've tried a few add-ons like facebook messenger, and Yoono, and they're nice for social netoworking, Does avs forum have specific threads i could use that have more of a computer/software theme, that aren't specifically geared to A/V devices only?
Thanks.
The HTPC forums might be what you want: http://www.avsforum.com/f/26/home-theater-computers
Personally I use Firefox to view AVS on desktop and laptop computers with the "AVS Black skin". There are quite a few browser-related settings in the "Full Account Details" section of each user's profile.
- apw2607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacinMan 
I contacted the developer at yazsoft and now waiting to hear back. I mentioned the initial issues with photos and no thumbnails as i have that too but the eyetv is your issue alone since i don't own that hardware/software, so i mentioned a complaint posted on AVSForums by another user.
So i'll point them to this thread if they ask. I'll just keep you posted as to what I find out.

I contacted the developer at yazsoft and now waiting to hear back. I mentioned the initial issues with photos and no thumbnails as i have that too but the eyetv is your issue alone since i don't own that hardware/software, so i mentioned a complaint posted on AVSForums by another user.
So i'll point them to this thread if they ask. I'll just keep you posted as to what I find out.
MacinMan. I just went back to Playback DLNA from Yazsoft and purchased the full version. From what I can tell, it does have the best integration out there with iTunes and iPhoto. I've tried pretty much everything else, and each has its short comings, but Playback just seems to work very well.
I also spoke with the developers about the EyeTV issue and they are looking into it. It seems to be a issue with other players as well.
They are also going to provide a jpeg icon for the server so Sony BDP players will show a icon against the DLNA server name.
Glad I went back to this now. Very impressed.
post #2783 of 3461
1/22/13 at 3:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrevkev 
Recently got a BDP-S390 (Australian model, latest firmware), and was trying to play video files off a 1TB 3.5" powered external HDD, connected via USB. The extHDD is formatted with 3 partitions, the first is FAT, and the others NTFS.
Problem is, only the FAT partition is visible as far as I can tell. Is this a limitation of the Sony?

Recently got a BDP-S390 (Australian model, latest firmware), and was trying to play video files off a 1TB 3.5" powered external HDD, connected via USB. The extHDD is formatted with 3 partitions, the first is FAT, and the others NTFS.
Problem is, only the FAT partition is visible as far as I can tell. Is this a limitation of the Sony?
Official reply from Sony tech support:
When it comes to partitioned hard drives, The Blu-Ray players will only see the first partition on the drive. I can understand your frustration but Unfortunately there is no firmware update that will be able to change this. I will pass your feed back on to the designers for future consideration however.
post #2784 of 3461
1/22/13 at 3:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrevkev 
Official reply from Sony tech support:

Official reply from Sony tech support:
When it comes to partitioned hard drives, The Blu-Ray players will only see the first partition on the drive. I can understand your frustration but Unfortunately there is no firmware update that will be able to change this. I will pass your feed back on to the designers for future consideration however.
Wow...this is unfortunate, but good to know. Thanks for passing it on.
post #2785 of 3461
1/22/13 at 3:48pm
- jonny-zed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vampidemic 
The reason that the BDP-S590 is better in this area is because it has optical AND coaxial, which provides more flexibility for interfacing. Some devices only have optical inputs and/or a user may have a device with a limited number of inputs overall.
But yes, optical and coaxial send the same bits, so the sound quality will be exactly the same. Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD).

The reason that the BDP-S590 is better in this area is because it has optical AND coaxial, which provides more flexibility for interfacing. Some devices only have optical inputs and/or a user may have a device with a limited number of inputs overall.
But yes, optical and coaxial send the same bits, so the sound quality will be exactly the same. Of course, it should go without saying that HDMI provides the highest quality digital audio from a Blu-ray player. Only HDMI supports lossless HD surround formats (DTS HD-MA and Dolby TrueHD).
Capnlando - you mentioned you were considering that Onkyo system I pointed you to on woot.com. Curious to know if you did indeed order it. That system gives you HDMI all around. Or is this a different application? If you did order it, I'll be anxious to hear how you make out with it. Please do let us know.
post #2786 of 3461
1/22/13 at 6:37pm
Okay, I've got an issue with my BDP-S590, I picked it up about a week and a half ago.
The symptoms are pretty straightforward: When playing Netflix, it starts off fine, then after a while (20 minutes or so), the screen goes out. There's a brief flicker of static and then just a black screen. The TV says it's still receiving a 1080p60 signal. Stopping playback has no effect. Turning either the TV or the BD player off and on again will bring picture back. Tonight, I tried just switching inputs on the TV, to something else and then back to HDMI, and the picture came back. Lasted about a minute, then went out again. The timing of the problems would seem to indicate that something inside the unit is warming up and that's when the problem starts (although there's no indications that it's overheating, the unit still feels cool to the touch).
Now, I've seen that flicker before.. I've got a twitchy DVI input on my TV, and that's what it does when it's trying to negotiate HDCP. So I thought it could be some kind of HDCP thing, since I didn't know if Netflix was using it or not. I've been streaming quite a bit of media over my home network to the thing, and that didn't have any problems, but then network content like that won't be using HDCP at all, so it kind of supported the theory. I popped in a DVD, again no problems (again, not sure what's using HDCP or not). So I popped in a Blu-ray, which I know damned well uses HDCP, and it played through all the way without a single glitch, ran like a champ.
So it seems that whatever's happening is specific to Netflix content. It's the only online service I have, so I can't really check around to see what else may be doing it. It doesn't appear to be HDCP directly, since I can play Blu-rays without the problem cropping up. I've seen a few references to Netflix problems in this thread (Google kept pointing me here as well), but those don't seem to be the same sort of thing that's happening here.
Any ideas?
The symptoms are pretty straightforward: When playing Netflix, it starts off fine, then after a while (20 minutes or so), the screen goes out. There's a brief flicker of static and then just a black screen. The TV says it's still receiving a 1080p60 signal. Stopping playback has no effect. Turning either the TV or the BD player off and on again will bring picture back. Tonight, I tried just switching inputs on the TV, to something else and then back to HDMI, and the picture came back. Lasted about a minute, then went out again. The timing of the problems would seem to indicate that something inside the unit is warming up and that's when the problem starts (although there's no indications that it's overheating, the unit still feels cool to the touch).
Now, I've seen that flicker before.. I've got a twitchy DVI input on my TV, and that's what it does when it's trying to negotiate HDCP. So I thought it could be some kind of HDCP thing, since I didn't know if Netflix was using it or not. I've been streaming quite a bit of media over my home network to the thing, and that didn't have any problems, but then network content like that won't be using HDCP at all, so it kind of supported the theory. I popped in a DVD, again no problems (again, not sure what's using HDCP or not). So I popped in a Blu-ray, which I know damned well uses HDCP, and it played through all the way without a single glitch, ran like a champ.
So it seems that whatever's happening is specific to Netflix content. It's the only online service I have, so I can't really check around to see what else may be doing it. It doesn't appear to be HDCP directly, since I can play Blu-rays without the problem cropping up. I've seen a few references to Netflix problems in this thread (Google kept pointing me here as well), but those don't seem to be the same sort of thing that's happening here.
Any ideas?
post #2787 of 3461
1/23/13 at 4:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by apw2607 
Bamafamily - I think you should call netflix to see if they can help you. There's clearly a problem here on why your netflix client continually tries to pull the 5800 stream when you're bandwidth is actually less.
It's possible on the roll out of the new super HD streams they have not got everything in place. Many of these changes they can do at their end, and the clients are not required to be updated.

Bamafamily - I think you should call netflix to see if they can help you. There's clearly a problem here on why your netflix client continually tries to pull the 5800 stream when you're bandwidth is actually less.
It's possible on the roll out of the new super HD streams they have not got everything in place. Many of these changes they can do at their end, and the clients are not required to be updated.
I will call and hopefully get a tech that knows what I am talking about..
Is there anyway to know what they are actually force feeding me in the stream besides just a "Super HD" name on the display??
And from what I am reading, as my ISP is part of this new club, Super HD could be 4300 or 5800, right?? no way to distinguish??
thanks
Bama
post #2788 of 3461
1/23/13 at 5:26am
- RichardCarver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamafamily 
I will call and hopefully get a tech that knows what I am talking about..
Is there anyway to know what they are actually force feeding me in the stream besides just a "Super HD" name on the display??
And from what I am reading, as my ISP is part of this new club, Super HD could be 4300 or 5800, right?? no way to distinguish??
thanks
Bama

I will call and hopefully get a tech that knows what I am talking about..
Is there anyway to know what they are actually force feeding me in the stream besides just a "Super HD" name on the display??
And from what I am reading, as my ISP is part of this new club, Super HD could be 4300 or 5800, right?? no way to distinguish??
thanks
Bama
You can adjust the download speed at Accounts at Netflix. I just did it the other way to get better quality but you could try the two lower speeds to see which works for you.
post #2789 of 3461
1/23/13 at 9:12am
post #2790 of 3461
1/23/13 at 9:34am
- michaeltscott
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Quote:
If you'd gone back and read the conversation about his problem, you'd see that that has already been suggested and tried. The level below "Best", called "Better", only gets you 1300 Kbps, too low to get 1750 Kbps best standard definition encode; it wasn't good enough. Basically he wants to block the 4300 Kbps and 5800 Kbps Super HD encodes and there doesn't seem to be a way to do that.
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