You are correct that the overall look is slightly cyan -- I prefer that to blue or red, which is 'cool' and 'warm' respectively in official jargon.
My strategy was to take a setting and neutralize either blue or red to make for an accurate white -- accurate to my eye and blending well in color images.
In my 'Overcoming the Blues' first attempt, I used Standard mode and attempted to take blue out of a 'Cool' setting, only to find that I couldn't cut the blue enough.
I then tried 'User' setting and found that I couldn't use the 10-point scale, so I ended up with the final and satisfactory attempt with Standard Medium Low and
removed red and boosted green to get a yellow ambience instead. Why do official calibrations ignore the green? Some old CRT TVs didn't have a green drive control.
The calibration disc available on this site is essential to get the 10-Point setting correct. The settings are brightness ranges and the idea is to make the scale all the
same color, without red or blue or green areas of discoloration. That 'same color' is where you and I differ. The slightly cyan color is what I find works best with the
widest range of media and also with Black and White images. A bit of blue/green is way preferable to any ruddiness to my eye -- nothing spoils white like pink!
The 10-Point scale begins at the dark end, where you will have a hard time seeing any change and finishes with a super-white that only shows on certain images and
definitely does not show on the disc image -- it will require tweaking after the fact to get highlights the correct 'sunny' color that I prefer. Too blue makes reds turn magenta
and too green is just gross. Too red, though, makes flesh tones unbearable. My question to you is: do you have the disc? Can you do the blue, green and white clipping
repairs? Do you see the continuous and the stepped white scale to adjust the 10-Point scale from? I've been told that 847 is different from 845, but the overall strategy of
getting linear color response and a proper white is the same for both.
3D has to be adjusted while the TV is in 3D mode. Use the remote button and 2D -> 3D to access its adjustment menu.
Leave the 10-Point on if you like the results -- you can switch back and forth to see the difference from the Hi/Lo setting.
I see no advantage from any of the motion enhancement features, so I turned them off.
OPC was set up in a dark room -- the minimum is set to 0 change, so it is the optimum. The TV does a good job of adding brightness
and contrast as room light increases with the maximum setting dialed in. My room changes a lot, so I need that boost in broad daylight.
Dropping the minimum below 0 muddies the picture. I prefer all the change as room light increases and half the scale is plenty of range.
Edited by johnfull - 2/2/13 at 3:00am
Originally Posted by DeadEd
OK, Superbowl is coming and I had to get it perfect.
Johnfull and everyone, here are some thoughts and some questions and my settings.
1) First a question. Johnfull, when you adjusted the 10 point color temp settings, how did you do it? I mean, there are *SO* many settings (30 in all) and tens of thousands of combinations, I don't really know where to start on this. Also, I don't know what each of the 'Points" in the 10 point calibration mean.
2) Another question, when you switch to 3d do you redo all the settings? My TV does not have a separate setting for 3d, or if it does I don't know where it is.
3) Next, an observation. You can have the 10 point calibration active *OR* you can use the color temp (high/low) but not both. Once you switch over to the 10 point it turns the other one off. So if you are using the 10 point it does not matter what you set the color temp to.
4) Another observation, I don't see much difference between the motion enhancement 120 high/low/off. I chose low as it makes scrolling text look better.
Johnfull, I put your settings into my TV and then tweaked them a bit. I'm posting here in the LC-70LE847U Owners Thread because the other thread is for the ....845U and I have an ...847.
Johnfull's settings from his other thread are in black and my best settings are in blue...
AV Mode: (STANDARD)
OPC: (ON) I like this off, I don't like it changing the whole screen brightness on it's own.
Backlight: (-4) -2
Contrast: (+29) +26
Brightness: (+1) +3
Color: (0) 0
Tint: (0) 0
Sharpness: (+10) +4, I see too much artifact with it any higher than 4
CMS Hue: (I like your settings here. These are mine and the difference is minimal to my eye)
R: (0) -1
Y: (0) -3
G: (0) -1
C: (0) -6
B: (0) +2
M: (0) +4
R: (-4) -6
Y: (-5) +3
G: (0) -12
C: (0) -17
B: (0) -13
M: (-8) -4
R: (-8) -3
Y: (-5) +2
G: (-14) +7
C: (0) 0
B: (0) +1
M: (-8) +1
Color Temp: (LOW) medium-low
10-Point Color Temperature: (ON) (personally I think it's better OFF and temp set to med/low. These setting are a little too blue/cyan for me)
Position 1: R(-30), G(+30), B(+30) not using
2: R(-30), G(+5), B(+27) not using
3 R(-30), G(+12), B(+30) not using
4 R(-30), G(+11), B(+30) not using
5 R(-30), G(+12), B(+23) not using
6 R(-30), G(+9), B(+25) not using
7 R(-30), G(+12), B(+30) not using
8 R(-30), G(+14, B(+21) not using
9 R(-25), G(+15), B(+19) not using
10 R(-30), G(0), B(0) not using
Motion (OFF) 120 hz low
Active Contrast (OFF) off
Gamma (O) still not sure here, either +1 or 0
Film Mode (OFF) off
DNR (OFF) low
Range of OPC: (+16 MAX) (0 MIN) doesn't matter here since I have it off
Quad pixel (I can't see a difference in any of the settings so I kept it on standard)
So there we are. I wonder what peoples' thoughts are here.