Official Sharp AQUOS LC-60LE847U & LC-70LE847U Owners Thread - Page 68

Plasma has, IMHO, the advantage of being a brighter and more solid picture overall. I like the color better on plasma. The off angle viewing is MUCH better on plasma. The deal breakers for me, and I had the same consideration when buying the TV just before the olympics, was the heat generated by the plasma. Electricity usage is much higher too which added to my decision but not by much. My room is small and I've seen how hot it gets with a big plasma and decided we could not live with that. Otherwise I probably would have gotten the five inch smaller plasma (I was looking at the Samsung 8000 series).

That being said, I'm **VERY** happy with my purchase!!

Thanks - tough to find objective resources - even cnet seems to have a Panasonic bias as Panasonic is a sponsor. Always been a plasma guy, but think I will make the jump to LED.

Thanks I jumped on the deal - came with 2 pairs of glasses and 3d blu-ray player too!

Now just need a new mounting bracket....
Edited by djdego02 - 1/30/13 at 3:54pm

Yeah, personally I find Cnet to be quite biased. No only that but they seem to do very superficial reviews. I rarely agree with their reviews though their user reviews/comments are OK. I have better luck looking at the comments at amazon.com and here.

Has anyone have calibration results they would like to share on this LC70LE847U ?

thanks, Alan

They are all over this thread. You'll need to do the reading yourself.

Courtesy of johnfull
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1444684/sharp-lc-70le845u-calibration-including-3d

I thought my TV looked fine but his settings made it great! Thanks johnfull!

Please note that each set if different, so consider anyone's settings just as a starting point for your own tweaking. From first hand experience when I plugged in my calibration settings from my first set into my replacement set, they were way off calibrated.

Best,
jeff

Also, this is for the 845 not the 847, so it might not work so well. Maybe worth a try though.

thanks John, Dead, & Greeno

Those really are the ultimate settings, so far as I am concerned.
You can throw anything at it and it renders correctly.
Thanks for your endorsement, kissfn!

OK, Superbowl is coming and I had to get it perfect.

Johnfull and everyone, here are some thoughts and some questions and my settings.

1) First a question. Johnfull, when you adjusted the 10 point color temp settings, how did you do it? I mean, there are *SO* many settings (30 in all) and tens of thousands of combinations, I don't really know where to start on this. Also, I don't know what each of the 'Points" in the 10 point calibration mean.

2) Another question, when you switch to 3d do you redo all the settings? My TV does not have a separate setting for 3d, or if it does I don't know where it is.

3) Next, an observation. You can have the 10 point calibration active *OR* you can use the color temp (high/low) but not both. Once you switch over to the 10 point it turns the other one off. So if you are using the 10 point it does not matter what you set the color temp to.

4) Another observation, I don't see much difference between the motion enhancement 120 high/low/off. I chose low as it makes scrolling text look better.

Johnfull, I put your settings into my TV and then tweaked them a bit. I'm posting here in the LC-70LE847U Owners Thread because the other thread is for the ....845U and I have an ...847.
Johnfull's settings from his other thread are in black and my best settings are in blue...

Here goes...

2D:

AV Mode: (STANDARD)

OPC: (ON) I like this off, I don't like it changing the whole screen brightness on it's own.

Backlight: (-4) -2

Contrast: (+29) +26
Brightness: (+1) +3
Color: (0) 0
Tint: (0) 0
Sharpness: (+10) +4, I see too much artifact with it any higher than 4

CMS Hue: (I like your settings here. These are mine and the difference is minimal to my eye)
R: (0) -1
Y: (0) -3
G: (0) -1
C: (0) -6
B: (0) +2
M: (0) +4

CMS Saturation:
R: (-4) -6
Y: (-5) +3
G: (0) -12
C: (0) -17
B: (0) -13
M: (-8) -4

CMS Value:
R: (-8) -3
Y: (-5) +2
G: (-14) +7
C: (0) 0
B: (0) +1
M: (-8) +1

Color Temp: (LOW) medium-low

10-Point Color Temperature: (ON) (personally I think it's better OFF and temp set to med/low. These setting are a little too blue/cyan for me)

Position 1: R(-30), G(+30), B(+30) not using
2: R(-30), G(+5), B(+27) not using
3 R(-30), G(+12), B(+30) not using
4 R(-30), G(+11), B(+30) not using
5 R(-30), G(+12), B(+23) not using
6 R(-30), G(+9), B(+25) not using
7 R(-30), G(+12), B(+30) not using
8 R(-30), G(+14, B(+21) not using
9 R(-25), G(+15), B(+19) not using
10 R(-30), G(0), B(0) not using

Motion (OFF) 120 hz low
Active Contrast (OFF) off
Gamma (O) still not sure here, either +1 or 0
Film Mode (OFF) off
DNR (OFF) low
Range of OPC: (+16 MAX) (0 MIN) doesn't matter here since I have it off
Quad pixel (I can't see a difference in any of the settings so I kept it on standard)

So there we are. I wonder what peoples' thoughts are here.

Thank you for doing the work and sharing!

You are correct that the overall look is slightly cyan -- I prefer that to blue or red, which is 'cool' and 'warm' respectively in official jargon.
My strategy was to take a setting and neutralize either blue or red to make for an accurate white -- accurate to my eye and blending well in color images.
In my 'Overcoming the Blues' first attempt, I used Standard mode and attempted to take blue out of a 'Cool' setting, only to find that I couldn't cut the blue enough.
I then tried 'User' setting and found that I couldn't use the 10-point scale, so I ended up with the final and satisfactory attempt with Standard Medium Low and
removed red and boosted green to get a yellow ambience instead. Why do official calibrations ignore the green? Some old CRT TVs didn't have a green drive control.
The calibration disc available on this site is essential to get the 10-Point setting correct. The settings are brightness ranges and the idea is to make the scale all the
same color, without red or blue or green areas of discoloration. That 'same color' is where you and I differ. The slightly cyan color is what I find works best with the
widest range of media and also with Black and White images. A bit of blue/green is way preferable to any ruddiness to my eye -- nothing spoils white like pink!
The 10-Point scale begins at the dark end, where you will have a hard time seeing any change and finishes with a super-white that only shows on certain images and
definitely does not show on the disc image -- it will require tweaking after the fact to get highlights the correct 'sunny' color that I prefer. Too blue makes reds turn magenta
and too green is just gross. Too red, though, makes flesh tones unbearable. My question to you is: do you have the disc? Can you do the blue, green and white clipping
repairs? Do you see the continuous and the stepped white scale to adjust the 10-Point scale from? I've been told that 847 is different from 845, but the overall strategy of
getting linear color response and a proper white is the same for both.

3D has to be adjusted while the TV is in 3D mode. Use the remote button and 2D -> 3D to access its adjustment menu.

Leave the 10-Point on if you like the results -- you can switch back and forth to see the difference from the Hi/Lo setting.

I see no advantage from any of the motion enhancement features, so I turned them off.

OPC was set up in a dark room -- the minimum is set to 0 change, so it is the optimum. The TV does a good job of adding brightness
and contrast as room light increases with the maximum setting dialed in. My room changes a lot, so I need that boost in broad daylight.
Dropping the minimum below 0 muddies the picture. I prefer all the change as room light increases and half the scale is plenty of range.




Edited by johnfull - 2/2/13 at 3:00am

Thanks so much for the settings Johnfull and deaded! I've used a mix of both of your settings and I'm liking the results. My main changes are adjusting down the contrast from +10 to +4 and turning off the 10 pt color temp and using the mid/low setting. Toggling between 10 pt color temp on and off with the various color temp settings being chosen I liked the picture on the mid/low color temp the best compared to having the 10 pt color temp on. Overall, I'm feeling this is the best my 8470U's picture has looked using standard setting. A bit softer but still retaining the sharpness (agree less artifact) I enjoyed from Johnfull's settings...but I'm sure as I watch more various content I'll tweak it a little more. Thanks again!

Excellent response johnfull, thanks for taking the time. I do have the calibration disk from this site and I think it's great. It's how I initially calibrated my set and there is almost no clipping. Sometimes I'll put up with a little just for a more saturated look; I go back and forth in my mind (don't want clipping in Silence of the Lambs but it's OK in Dredd). You settings have helped me refine that and now that I understand the 10 point scale a little better I'm going to go play some more if i can get my daughter to stop watching reruns of How I Met Your Mother.

I watch lots of sports and when I see the text scrolling along the bottom is the only time I see any useful difference in the motion enhancement, FWIW.

My room is pretty bright. I'm actually going to look at some blackout curtains today. Maybe I'll give the OPC another try then.

I spent almost 3 days and went through the thread. I am about to pull the trigger on a 60LE847. I have an LC-46LE700U that I love but want bigger & 3D.

Are the newer sets having less issues? Is there anything other than clouding I need to be on the lookout for?

Thanks
Edited by e30cabrio - 2/2/13 at 6:15pm

Ok game is about to start. I've read all the calibration posts but what's the verdict on using either 120mhz or Aquomotion? I've played around with all 5 settings and i just can't tell which will be better for watching football?

Despite most people hating it Aquomotion 240Hz works for me on my 70LE845U (Best Buy version) using FIOS.

I ended up using Aquomotion 480. Everything looked good enough until the confetti started coming down at the end of the game. The screen was a mess. Anybody actually get that scene to look ok? and what setting did you use?

Looked great with Aquomotion 240 for me.

It would have looked much better if the 49ers won.

No, seriously, that was due to the network's signal compression, not your TV. Nothing you could have done to make it look good (as far as I understand).

short of starting a new thread, i like to know what are the differences between the following two models. and how do i tell what model do i own?

thanks.

http://www.sharp.com.sg/web/products/prodDetail.asp?ProdId=403&mode=Spec

http://www.sharp.com.sg/web/products/prodDetail.asp?ProdId=452&mode=Spec

Hello All...

I have had the LC-70LE847U for about a week now, and it has taken me that long to make it all the way through this thread. Reading it was like time travel, seeing everything that has been going on over the past year. I wanted to thank everybody that posted their settings. CGgorman, Rbaranas, Skiman24, Kgehring, Greeno, Joyfull, Shady195, Deadend you guys are rock-stars.

I have not tried all the settings posted yet, but so far I am not getting the results I thought I would get.

For example, CGgorman, in your "dark room" settings, the colors are very pale. Is that how you designed it? In your "daytime" setting the red colors are very over-saturated. The inside of people's mouths look like they are on fire.

This is the core of my problem with the calibration. Either the colors are pale, or the reds are blown up. Rbaranas' "user" settings have nice colors but still the reds are blown up.

Is anybody else having a problem with blown out Reds? People have complained about Blues in this thread, but the only mention of Reds was with the calibration technician that refused to work on a Sharp TV.

Which setting can I take down the red colors with? Is it possible to just take down the reds or will the negate some other settings?

Thanks again to everybody!

first comment is that every set if a bit different. with my 2 8470's, the calibrated settings for the first was way different from the calibrated settings for the second except for brightness and contrast.

First double check that you're using standard gamut and have set the color temp to low, in movie setting that's the setting that IMO is the most calibratable.
Turn off film mode and set the refresh to either 120Hz low or off.
Now you're ready to head down the rabbit hole of tweaking. Also, with an instrument and software, IMO, you definitely won't be accurate, but you can get to something that you like (Johnfull's approach).

If you've already been tweaking and don't like the result, you can always reset to defaults.

I've not seen reds blown out. my calibrated 8470 looks as accurate as my panny ST30.

Best,
jeff

This was mentioned many times in this long thread but I guess it did not sink in. For some reason, I was convinced that CG's settings should work.

The good news is that I spent some more time trying the different settings posted in the thread and I am off the ledge! DeadEd's settings look great on my set. This is the best this TV has ever looked.

DeadEd, if you make any additional tweaks, I would greatly appreciate you post them as it looks like our sets are fairly similar.

BTW, somebody in this thread said we need a "like" button. I say we need a "donate" button. That is very common over in XDA Developers forums. Truth is, for all the time some spend calibrating and posting settings, the least those of us that take advantage can do is buy them a beer!

I like beer!

Anyone have a Samsung HW E450 soundbar? Do you connect via HDMI ARC or digital audio? I'm most interested in having the sound bar turn on and off with the TV. Is that possible with this Sharp?
Edited by Bill McNeal - 2/6/13 at 12:31am

Use the CMS to remove red clipping. The LED light source for these sets is weakest in the red spectrum and it is pushed beyond its linear range for the sake of 'pop'.
Use the disc found here and go in and make the scale run the gamut in red -- then do it for green. Blue doesn't clip at all, but you may want to pare it back to match...

The "warehouse" local store BJs has about 3 open box 847's on sale (all on display probably running for 16 hours a day) for 2200 + tax.. Any reason to not get these display models? Being LED, thinking they should be fine but anything I need to worry about?

They want 2799 for brand new ones.. Just a bit much for a tv that is edge lit.

Is the 240hz panel any better than the 120hz ones in the 600/640 model? Sharp really botched up their 2012 70 series offerings this year.. no full array this time?