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Official Sharp AQUOS LC-60LE847U & LC-70LE847U Owners Thread - Page 80

post #2371 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTCPBuff View Post

Ok, tried this new program,, it does the same thing,,but even if it didn't the program is way to complicated (sp) to be of anyuse for everyday use.. OMG !!

Actually it is perfect for everyday use, it seems complicated because it is very customizable. Too bad you still have the same problem, it is definitely a Problem with this particular model, very strange. I really doubt they would fix anything with an update. Let us know if you find a solution. Good luck
post #2372 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiddler11 View Post

Doesnt matter what im doing on the computer I see this line flash on the screen approx 1per hour or so.

How do you have the computer connected to the television? Directly to an HDMI input on the TV or running through a receiver? Is your TV set for Dot by Dot? Do you have the most current drivers for your Asus card? You might want to contact Asus about this issue. Have you tried a different HDMI cable? This sounds like a possible scaling issue between the video card and your television..
Edited by myoda - 4/18/13 at 1:28pm
post #2373 of 2660
connections are all HDMI,, have tried 1.3a and 1.4 cables with 7 different computers, all do the same thing.. Set is set to dot to dot ( but have tried all different setting... I update the drivers for all computers and video cards twice a week,, all are up to date ( i have even rolled back some drivers to 3 or 4 months ago- no difference) The video cards that I have tried are all different, from the lowest - built on the motherboard to the top of the line amd, nvidia, ati.. from the fastest I could find AMD 7970 to the mid an GTX650 to one I have on an old pent 4 machine, which is a AGP card... all do the same time..
MY "GUESS is a hand shaking problem (even though that doesn't make any sense)
I've tied a Laptop I-7 and even a tablet ,,, 1.2 gig single core.. BUT when I play any of these movies on another monitor ( a 720P Element--from wallie world for 179 bucks -- 32 inch) there is no problem.. Only the Sharps..

If I find anything I will let you know,, pse do the same,,, Sharp service is clueless,,, but they can duplicate the problem !!
post #2374 of 2660
Oh yea,, I have tried a HDMI, and DVI graphics, and component.. ( anything less than that would be unexcepable,, but have tried VGA and it does the same thing !!)
post #2375 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTCPBuff View Post

Oh yea,, I have tried a HDMI, and DVI graphics, and component.. ( anything less than that would be unexcepable,, but have tried VGA and it does the same thing !!)

I have Intel in my HTPC and worked perfect with my old Sharp Aquos and was hooked up HDMI. Have you tried connecting it to another HDMI input?
post #2376 of 2660
Have tried all the different input to no avail.. 5 of my computers are intel and 2 are AMD, should not make any difference,, the video cards are all different types.. BUT if the WD player can do it,, why can't a computer.. I was hoping a "techie" person out there might have a idea..
I consider myself a "techie" person but I have no idea.. Only the Sharp TV's do it.. but then agn the WD palyer does NOT and the BluRay Player out of the same computer DOES NOT !!! Shoot ME:D
post #2377 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by RocShemp View Post

Sure. I sent them a few pics. The first pair was using the set's own 3D test. I know Sharp didn't want test patterns but I felt that was the most damning evidence since it's meant to serve as the set's own demo of its 3D capabilities.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The other shots I used were from Hugo
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Silent Hill Revelation
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

and The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

So I just got my 3D glasses and my cross-talk or ghosting looks like yours. Damn, I'm happy with this TV otherwise. So is this normal? Am I stuck with it? Will settings help at all with this?
post #2378 of 2660
Hi there,

Will this TV allow for HDMI AND analog audio passthrough the toslink port? If I connect some HDMI devices and analog audio up to this tv, will it pass all this through the optical out port? If so, will it be PCM 2.0 audio or 5.1?

thanks in advance! I tried to look through the thread, but there are too many posts. smile.gif
post #2379 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by mufugger View Post

Hi there,

Will this TV allow for HDMI AND analog audio passthrough the toslink port? If I connect some HDMI devices and analog audio up to this tv, will it pass all this through the optical out port? If so, will it be PCM 2.0 audio or 5.1?

thanks in advance! I tried to look through the thread, but there are too many posts. smile.gif

+1 on this question. I will be outputing from the Sharp toslink port to the Sonos Playbar, plus a sub and 2 rear (play 3) speakers. I'm hoping I'll get actual 5.1.
post #2380 of 2660
You'll have to test it and see. When streaming Netflix, I have an optical from the sharp to my avr. I get dd 5.1 if its available for the content. I set the optical out of the set to pass PCM. Not sure what version it is.
Best,
Jeff
post #2381 of 2660
Thanks. So at the very least, it passes the audio from HDMI inputs as 2.0 PCM through the toslink out?
post #2382 of 2660
ah yes, I forgot about that... I have ARC turned off (too many wierd side effects of having it on - mainly OSD menus) and the outgoing bitstream to PCM, no version specification. I guess the answer is yes. my AVR only looks at what's incoming on the toshlink from the TV, when I'm on a particular input (the one I've setup for netflix streaming to the TV via cat5 on my LAN). I've seen the AVR report the incoming stream as DD 5.1. Again, I don't know what version of PCM that is.
post #2383 of 2660
Alright while I am getting rid of my LE847U (A guy gave me a deposit and will be picking it up next week) I may be of some final help here.

I think I was one of the first people that complained of the Stutter/Judder when watching streaming content from my Set top boxes, any of them sattelite, google tv, roku etc etc..

The only thing I never had this issue on was with my blu ray player, the only way to remedy this issue on the other equipment was to put the TV in game mode, and no matter what I could not get the picture to look as natural as I had my movie mode set up to be. I pretty much got used to it and it really has not bothered me sense.

BUT! I think I KNow what the issue is.

I recently bought a Rasberry Pi and am running XBMC on it. While this still did stutter I decided to play with the video options within the control panel of XBMC. There is an option to change the Refresh rate in which XBMC displays content. Like your cable/satellite box, or any other streaming devices aside from your 24p capable Blu ray player, its default refresh rate was set to 60HZ such as most things are.

I decided to change this down to 24HZ and VIOLA, the stutter/judder and choppiness that a few especially me have noticed is now gone. I played with this quite a bit, went back and forth and it seems that whatever video processing this TV does in movie mode regardless of the motion enhancement settings you have, just has a problem smoothly displaying a 60HZ signal.

So long as my XBMC/Raspberry Pi is set to 24HZ, I do not have a single issue with it being choppy, it plays as smooth as my blu rays do.

Unfortunately I see no way of changing these settings on most set top devices, but if you want to stream network content buy a Raspberry Pi and put RaspBMC on it. Raspberry pi costs 30 bucks, and is honestly the easiest and hassle free medis streaming device ive used in regards to streaming movies from my network.
post #2384 of 2660
hey shady, I agree with you that the refresh rates important with this issue, but there's also a dependence on resolution. I (and at least one other person) have reported before that if I put my STB on 1080i60 and my AVR just passes it through, there is no stuttering. If the resolution is 720p60, then it stutters. If I pass 1080p60 (upconverted by AVR), it stutters. I also tested last week, letting the AVR upconvert to 1080p24, and as you found there's not stuttering, but you get the 24hz judder on fast pans.

Best,
jeff
post #2385 of 2660
I had some judder/stutter issues as well with a few MKV files. I switched from 1080p to 1080i 60Hz and it went away.
post #2386 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by RocShemp View Post

For those of you having ghosting issues while watching 3D on an LC-60LE847U, try these settings on Movie Mode:

Backlight: -2
Contrast: +38
Brightness: +2
Color: -6
Tint: +4
Sharpness: 0

Color Gamut Range: Standard
Color Temp: High
Quad Pixel Plus 2: Advanced [Honestly, you can leave this off since, outside of test patters, it makes little difference.]
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: +1
Film Mode: Off
Digital Noise Reduction: Off


The real important factor is the Color Temperature. The higher the better when it comes to this set's ghosting. Low is Ghost Central. I stumbled upon this solution while using the 3D test patterns included in Brave. There's a test to make sure that the right eye and the left eye are displaying properly. Close one eye and Buzz Lightyear disappears. Close the opposite eye and Woody disappears. Since Buzz is mostly white, he disappears easily. But Woody is brown, yellow, and orange mostly. So he's harder to disappear. The lower the Color Temperature, the more noticeable Woody becomes while viewing through the eye where he should remain unseen. Ghosting is greatly reduced.

That said, it doesn't completely eliminate ghosting on this set. But it becomes less of a nightmare.

As promised, here's the finalized version of my 3D settings. Nothing major was changed. Just a slight tweak to three settings. And, as before, the best way to reduce the visibility of ghosting is to set the color temperature to High.

Here goes:


Backlight: -2
Contrast: +38
Brightness: +2
Color: -4
Tint: +4
Sharpness: 0

Color Gamut Range: Standard
Color Temp: High
Quad Pixel Plus 2: Off
Active Contrast: Off
Gamma Adjustment: 0
Film Mode: Off
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
post #2387 of 2660
That seems to be what I found,, switching to 1080i and it goes away.. but shouldn't have to,, processor in the tv should (according to Sharp) be able to handle 1080P.
My next test ( besides the vsx 1122 amp) is to watch a 1080p movie off Dish Network,, but they don't have them all the time.. The Vsx has a video chip in it ( the Qdeo) for video processing for the HDMI signal,, if it will change anything is still to be seen..
post #2388 of 2660
are these tv passive 3d?
post #2389 of 2660
No, active.
post #2390 of 2660
I've had my TV since august or September of last year and I've never been 100% happy with the color/brigthness settings.

I got a Disney WOW blu ray and used that to calibrate. Every time I use the blu ray I change settings and I'm never happy with the results, I always end up on different settings also.

the bluray speaks about brightness, contrast, color, tint and sharpness. But it doesn't talk about the other settings like color temp, the 10 point color changes, active contrast, CMS Hue, CMs Saturation, CMS Value, Quad Pixel, Gamma. So what do I do with those leave them blank?

I've tried every color mix I see and I'm never happy. The Disney Wow bluray left my colors looking greenish/yellowish on skin and scenes with medium light. Other times I see too much red. Is this all in tint? Or color as well?

Help! I feel like I'll never get it right... Maybe I should just hire a professional.
post #2391 of 2660
Most of us turn any active feature off. Warmest color temp is a good starting point as the others are too blue.if u have a blue filter you can try and adjust color and tint. Idk if wow has that or the patterns.

Any of the other settings you need an instrument and software. As to a pro, only you can decide that. I calibrate as a hobby. These sets are very capable on an accurate picture.
post #2392 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp60quat View Post

I've had my TV since august or September of last year and I've never been 100% happy with the color/brigthness settings.

I got a Disney WOW blu ray and used that to calibrate. Every time I use the blu ray I change settings and I'm never happy with the results, I always end up on different settings also.

the bluray speaks about brightness, contrast, color, tint and sharpness. But it doesn't talk about the other settings like color temp, the 10 point color changes, active contrast, CMS Hue, CMs Saturation, CMS Value, Quad Pixel, Gamma. So what do I do with those leave them blank?

I've tried every color mix I see and I'm never happy. The Disney Wow bluray left my colors looking greenish/yellowish on skin and scenes with medium light. Other times I see too much red. Is this all in tint? Or color as well?

Help! I feel like I'll never get it right... Maybe I should just hire a professional.

Try the Cnet settings:
http://forums.cnet.com/7723-19410_102-579990/sharp-lc-60le847u-picture-settings/
post #2393 of 2660
A good white balance is key to getting natural fleshtones. Start with the warmest setting and go into the 10-point scale and remove red and add green.
The cool settings are too blue and the warm settings are too red. You want a balance between red and green that yields a natural 'sunny' white balance.
Don't be afraid to go too green at first and then back off to where you get the subtlety of color that you're looking for...
post #2394 of 2660
The TV is only a week old, so I just called Sharp to complain about my 3D crosstalk or ghosting as it looks. Tech is coming out next Tuesday with a new board to do a swap.

I'll cross my fingers that this is what it takes to fix it. It is odd that a new TV would even have this problem. Especially a late build like this. Since I just got the last of these TVs before the new 2013 models come out, you would think Sharp would have licked the bad 3D circuit board problem by now...

I'll post an update after the repair...
post #2395 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtrasmiley View Post

The TV is only a week old, so I just called Sharp to complain about my 3D crosstalk or ghosting as it looks. Tech is coming out next Tuesday with a new board to do a swap.

I'll cross my fingers that this is what it takes to fix it. It is odd that a new TV would even have this problem. Especially a late build like this. Since I just got the last of these TVs before the new 2013 models come out, you would think Sharp would have licked the bad 3D circuit board problem by now...

I'll post an update after the repair...

Board swap worked for me with the ghosting issue. Keep us posted.
post #2396 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post

Board swap worked for me with the ghosting issue. Keep us posted.

Did you board swap fix the ghosting 100%, all the way, no ghosting AT ALL?

Or

Is there some ghosting, but it is much improved?

I just find it odd that this TV would have any ghosting at all. Even the CNET review of it said there was ghosting, so I find it weird that Sharp didn't send a replacement to CNET for re-review!

Any chance you could post on the thread an "After" picture THROUGH the glasses so we can see a post repair image?

Thanks!
post #2397 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtrasmiley View Post

Did you board swap fix the ghosting 100%, all the way, no ghosting AT ALL?

Or

Is there some ghosting, but it is much improved?

I just find it odd that this TV would have any ghosting at all. Even the CNET review of it said there was ghosting, so I find it weird that Sharp didn't send a replacement to CNET for re-review!

Any chance you could post on the thread an "After" picture THROUGH the glasses so we can see a post repair image?

Thanks!

No ghosting - I responded to your pm with the details...



Taken through the left lens of Elite AN-3DG20 3D glasses - I don't have an easy way of shooting through both lenses, but in real life, looking at the 3D test with both eyes, there is no ghosting.


Edited by myoda - 4/24/13 at 3:32pm
post #2398 of 2660
Quote:
Originally Posted by myoda View Post

No ghosting - I responded to your pm with the details...



Taken through the left lens of Elite AN-3DG20 3D glasses - I don't have an easy way of shooting through both lenses, but in real life, looking at the 3D test with both eyes, there is no ghosting.


I'm a little surprised actually. My set has some ghosting, but I thought it was normal. Yours looks exceptional! Wonder if I should bug Sharp support...
post #2399 of 2660
Thanks for posting the pictures, your set looks amazing! Mine looks terrible in comparison. Well, I'll cross my fingers for Tuesdays repair to fix the problem.

I'll also post before and after pictures for the forum.

Also, thanks for posting the CNET link, very handy!
post #2400 of 2660
Well I got bad news and worse news. The tech showed up but Sharp never sent him the pics I sent them and instead gave the tech incorrect information. I said I was experiencing ghosting. Sharp told the tech that I said I blurry images and told him to order the main board. The new main board was defective and wouldn't activate the backlight. So he put the old main board back on and argued with Sharp that he needed a new timing board (the likely culprit) and the IR emitter board (since he suspects that might also be an issue). However, after he put my old main board back on, all I get is a black screen. No menu. No nothing. He checked and rechecked the connections but couldn't figure out what suddenly went wrong.

So now I've gone from a TV with ghosting in 3D to an outright dead TV and have to wait 'til next Tuesday at the soonest for the tech to receive a new main board, a new timing board, and a new IR emitter. board. frown.gif
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