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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 119

post #3541 of 9972
Turning super white on in my PS3, I went from four bars flashing in the AVS 709 contrast pattern to almost the entire screen. I can max the contrast out and still half to two thirds of the bars are still flashing.

What I've been trying to figure out forever, is, in very dark scenes, what the transparent-ish grey-ish stuff overlapping a lot of the really black areas is. Definitely not there on non-plasma displays, but mine isn't the only plasma I've seen it on. Turning contrast down to like 40 from 80 makes it go away, turning brightness down from where I calibrated it at 62 down to 52 makes it go away. Which makes me think something's wrong here.
post #3542 of 9972
Where is the overscan located in the menu?

Care to share your settings?
post #3543 of 9972
Edit: nevermind.

There's no change in the visibility of any of the bars in the GetGray contrast pattern either, tested in both my PS3 and Toshiba HD-A35. Only one that seems to blend at any setting is the 0% bar. Since the entire screen is pretty bright, I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the ABL?
Edited by Shocked - 6/14/12 at 12:41am
post #3544 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlockhart View Post

Where is the overscan located in the menu?

Care to share your settings?
HD Size 2 is an exact bit for bit mapping of the contents directly from the disk. There is no over-scan using that setting.
post #3545 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I recorded last nights Stanley Cup game on my Tivo (which feeds my 2009 46G10 and the small LED LCD TV on my desk via an HDMI splitter), and we also recorded the game on our TWC 8300HD DVR in the den connected to a 2005 Panny 42PX50U. I rewound and re-watched several segments and i saw the same brightness pops and flashes on all three TVs and it looked horrible and distracting on all of these TVs. I also tried watching several minutes of the game live on my old HP 26" LCD TV in another bedroom and sure enough i saw the same brightness pops and flashes that i saw on our other three TVs.
I don't understand why people are thinking that it's something that only the 2012 Panasonics are doing - it happens on all of my non-2012 TVs and others report it happens on their various other TVs as well.
that's good to hear. i will be placing my order, finally, for the 65" st50 next week. i recorded all the finals games from both nbc and nbcsn feeds and will be watching them to see if any of the "pops" bother me, i'm praying they don't.

Another question for you gamers out there. I will be doing the 100 hour break in slides, even though I know there are not for IR reductions. I am a very patient guy, I can hold off on playing games on this set if there is i break in time frame in which IR will be improved. Have any of you gamers noticed IR getting better after a certain amount of viewing hours? Aside from watching hockey, gaming is probably the other thing I will be doing a lot with this set. I won't be doing endless gaming marathons, but I do tend to play games in 30-60 minutes spurts often. My friend has a GT25 and IR used to be pretty noticeable with games with HUDS like Halo, but he says now 2 years later he rarely gets IR, if he does it's barely noticeable and disappears a lot quicker than when the set was new.
post #3546 of 9972
50ST50 or 55UT50? I know most people are going to side with the ST, but I can't afford a 55 inch ST but I can with the UT. I don't have any direct sunlight coming into my room. The room is attached to an enclosed porch so some ambient light comes in but not directly on the tv. I do like to have the overhead light in the room occasionally on. Is it really worth it to get the ST over the UT in my situation? Thanks
post #3547 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by chas51 View Post

just my 2 cents. it's not a perfect magic tv.
and its just a tv.
its not going to change your life.
here's a couple things thatI have gleaned from reading through thousands of posts: the ST50 series are very good.
all tv's have issues and problems.
people here who know a lot about tv's, and people on the HDJ forum and reviewers at amazon and other places rave about these sets.
these are people who know a lot about tv's. I have learned a lot from them.
I have decided that I will buy a 55" ST50 as soon as there is a decent sale. I do not have cold feet anymore. I have zero fear about my impending purchase. I am excited and super looking forward to getting one of these.

I have to agree with this post 100%. I have had a 42ST30 since last April with zero problems and it has been an amazing display. With the great reviews (CNET just upgraded their review for the ST50 to an even higher recommendation) that's why I'm getting ready to grab the 55ST50 to replace the ST30 in my living room. And I'll do just what I did with that display. Set custom settings to DNice's recommendations (and, no, I won't be running slides, just using the settings recommendations for after running the slides, which is what I did with the ST30) sitting back an enjoying what I am sure will be great PQ. And won't be spending one minute looking for flaws of any kind. Sometimes you just have to say "What the F***' and enjoy your purchase. Life is too short.
post #3548 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by jester18 View Post

50ST50 or 55UT50? I know most people are going to side with the ST, but I can't afford a 55 inch ST but I can with the UT. I don't have any direct sunlight coming into my room. The room is attached to an enclosed porch so some ambient light comes in but not directly on the tv. I do like to have the overhead light in the room occasionally on. Is it really worth it to get the ST over the UT in my situation? Thanks

That's a tough situation. CNET specifically said that overhead light is rough on the UT50. I went to the store to compare and found this to be true. I don't ever judge a picture by what I see in the store, and don't feel anyone else should either because of all the variables. As far as reflection, that's a different story. I know how well my ST50 deals with reflections, which is very good to say the least. I can have my curtains open with direct sun coming in, and the picture still looks watchable. After comparing the reflections in Best Buy, the UT50 was a lot worse. They had the ST50 and UT50 right near one another, and on the ST50 you could make out where the lights were in the store, but they were very toned down and kinda distorted from the filter. On the UT50, you could see the lights, the columns, the registers, the people, etc. How it will perform in your home, idk, but I didn't want to risk it because even with curtains drawn, you still get light in my living room.
post #3549 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangersFan View Post

that's good to hear. i will be placing my order, finally, for the 65" st50 next week. i recorded all the finals games from both nbc and nbcsn feeds and will be watching them to see if any of the "pops" bother me, i'm praying they don't.
Another question for you gamers out there. I will be doing the 100 hour break in slides, even though I know there are not for IR reductions. I am a very patient guy, I can hold off on playing games on this set if there is i break in time frame in which IR will be improved. Have any of you gamers noticed IR getting better after a certain amount of viewing hours? Aside from watching hockey, gaming is probably the other thing I will be doing a lot with this set. I won't be doing endless gaming marathons, but I do tend to play games in 30-60 minutes spurts often. My friend has a GT25 and IR used to be pretty noticeable with games with HUDS like Halo, but he says now 2 years later he rarely gets IR, if he does it's barely noticeable and disappears a lot quicker than when the set was new.

I'm a gamer, I got my 60ST50 on May 30th. This is my first plasma ever, so I only know about them what I've read here and what I've learned from a buddy with a Kuro. I did the 100 hour D-Nice panel prep with slides exactly as recommended. Then I input the D-Nice recommended Custom settings and the picture looked fantastic to me. I have a 55" Sony HX729 that I calibrated with the Disney WoW disc and the ST50 looks richer to me. I first watched 5-10 hours of full screen content, then went ahead and watched some blu-ray movies with top & bottom black bars. I have noticed no IR at all, but I'm not putting on specific slides or anything to specifically look for it. Just watching content normally I see no problems.

We then had a weekend gaming fest, mostly playing some Marvel Ultimate Alliance 2 on the PS3. We played a good 2-3 hours at a time. This game has HUDs on the top left, right and bottom right. I've not noticed any IR after playing this either. I will put on a full screen channel for 10-20 minutes after gaming just for good measure, but I don't know if that's even necessary. So far, no IR that I've noticed. I just use the same D-Nice Custom settings and I'm also running motion smoothing on Medium when gaming because it makes a big difference in smoother gameplay imaging. And i don't notice any input lag really. I'm 100% satisfied with this TV so far, it's really nice. All my buds kept complimenting on it.
post #3550 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by RangersFan View Post

Another question for you gamers out there. I will be doing the 100 hour break in slides, even though I know there are not for IR reductions. I am a very patient guy, I can hold off on playing games on this set if there is i break in time frame in which IR will be improved. Have any of you gamers noticed IR getting better after a certain amount of viewing hours? Aside from watching hockey, gaming is probably the other thing I will be doing a lot with this set. I won't be doing endless gaming marathons, but I do tend to play games in 30-60 minutes spurts often. My friend has a GT25 and IR used to be pretty noticeable with games with HUDS like Halo, but he says now 2 years later he rarely gets IR, if he does it's barely noticeable and disappears a lot quicker than when the set was new.
I've had 3-4 hour gaming sessions on mine every week or two since probably around the 150 hour mark. I watch a LOT of baseball. Yet the only case of IR I've ever seen is what I'm currently dealing with, and it doesn't resemble anything I can ever remember seeing on my screen (it's obviously from something, but I can't figure out what).

Can't tell you how fast it goes away because it hasn't yet, but until this happened it was basically a complete non-issue.
post #3551 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathrattlehead View Post

Just received my replacement ST50 from Amazon. The DSE lines are even worse on this set. Putting on the anti-retention scrolling bar, you can easily make them out. I've had enough...time to play the Samsung lottery now.

I have to retract my statement. I put my E8000 (Still waiting for the shipping company to come get it) back on display to compare. Yes, the DSE is significantly decreased and SD content is cleaned up a little better, but I think I'm still going to keep the original ST50. After seeing the Kuro-ish blacks of the ST50, it's really hard to look at the E8000 the same way again. Also, input lag is just terrible on the E8000, even in game mode. I thought it might be acceptable initially, but after using the ST50 and feeling no input lag at all, the E8000 feels like there are 50 lb. weights attached to the legs of my character. This is a really tough year for picking a television.
post #3552 of 9972
I love this TV but i'm considering returning it in exchange for a GT model. It's only another 400 bucks and that will give me another custom mode to program (which will allow me to toggle day/night settings. Also I like the THX certification as I'm about to buy a THX certified Onkyo 818 and I like the option of professional color settings in custom mode as well. Am I off my rocker or is this sound thinking on my part? If anyone thinks I'm just wasting my time and money here (not to mention another 4 days of psychotic seizure-inducing dnice slides!) please weigh in here.

I'm on week three currently, so i have a week to decide.

Thanks gents,
Jason
post #3553 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlockhart View Post

Where is the overscan located in the menu?

As htwaits said, HD Size 2 under Aspect Adjustments.

If you want to see something really wild, display the advanced settings overscan pattern from the Disney WoW disc and toggle between Size 1 and Size 2. Not only do the sides get cropped in Size 1 (of course), but the "pixel squares" and "pixel lines" are completely distorted and freaky looking. I believe it shows how much the zooming for overscan changes the actual picture. There also seems to be a bit more dithering (sparkling) in Size 1 when looking at the TV close-up, but that could be my imagination.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlockhart 
Care to share your settings?

I posted this a few pages back, but here it is again (60ST50, Custom). Same as the CNET settings (W/B etc), but with the following differences:

Contrast: 83
Brightness: 56
Color: 54
Color Temp: Normal
Gamma Adjustment: 2.2

Note: I originally had Brightness at 53 in the old post, but further WoW tweaks with the advanced brightness pattern shows that 56 is more ideal.

I keep changing Sharpness wildly depending on material, even though I'm pretty sure it doesn't have much of an effect. 0 is probably fine.
post #3554 of 9972
Hi all
Just have a question regarding the 3D features was the 3D quality on this tv phenomenal, was it full on in-depth 3D as if the images are flying right into your face? Or is the 3D quality not good on this tv

Thanks
post #3555 of 9972
Thanks for the reply. It's a hard decision. I can save money and go 5 inches bigger with the UT50 but is it better to go smaller (50 inches) and better quality for more money. I did also notice inside best buy how I could see everything behind me from the reflection of the UT and that the ST reflection was a lot better. I'm just trying to decide if this filter is enough to spend the extra money. I will be able to control light in the room, the tv is in pretty well, but I guess the ceiling light (which is not directly over the tv) will be on occasionally. I don't like to watch tv in the dark all the time. What do you think? I'm pretty new to plasmas so any advice is appreciated?
post #3556 of 9972
Definitely get the ST50. I'd recommend however you save up a little more and get the 55".
post #3557 of 9972
What are your main reasons for liking the ST over the UT?
post #3558 of 9972
It's better. Significantly better. You already know that and you've already discovered why and how.
post #3559 of 9972
I have to give Amazon even more credit. I called to tell them I'm sending back my replacement and keeping the original set, and they decided to extend my return window on the original set for another 30 days. They said they wanted to give me more time to see if I could deal with the set issues. Very cool on their part.

@jonnythan - UP THE IRONS!!
post #3560 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by jester18 View Post

What are your main reasons for liking the ST over the UT?

JESTER 18: I too have a large back porch that shades the LR and the 55UT50 was a solid consideration. In fact I would wager we have the darkest room unless you have one in the basement and we watch 90% of our TV at night. The Filter does not seem to make a difference in the room. However, I went with the 50ST50 because though it cost was the same, the processing is just that little bit better. The processing difference that I saw at the store proved that it was worth the smaller size.

We are very happy with the 50". Sure a larger size would always be nice, but it only adds 2 inches to each side and the top. We had our last TV for 14 years, so I think this will be with us for as long as it works and I think will outlast a UT performance over all. Also the Wi-Fi is built in; which we needed because I did not want to string a CAT line thru the house and buying a Dongle was not worth the price difference. Also, the Keyboard options and Web Browser were a factor; which might become obsolete, but for now is a nice feature. The tweaking of 3D on the ST is supposed to be better as well, but with a good player this may not be an issue.

Conversely, if you think the larger size set is important then take the UT as many have liked that as well and are happy with the PG. For us, the ST was the best option for overall performance.

Good luck with your Decision! cool.gif
post #3561 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woody Harris View Post

JESTER 18: I too have a large back porch that shades the LR and the 55UT50 was a solid consideration. In fact I would wager we have the darkest room unless you have one in the basement and we watch 90% of our TV at night. The Filter does not seem to make a difference in the room. However, I went with the 50ST50 because though it cost was the same, the processing is just that little bit better. The processing difference that I saw at the store proved that it was worth the smaller size.
We are very happy with the 50". Sure a larger size would always be nice, but it only adds 2 inches to each side and the top. We had our last TV for 14 years, so I think this will be with us for as long as it works and I think will outlast a UT performance over all. Also the Wi-Fi is built in; which we needed because I did not want to string a CAT line thru the house and buying a Dongle was not worth the price difference. Also, the Keyboard options and Web Browser were a factor; which might become obsolete, but for now is a nice feature. The tweaking of 3D on the ST is supposed to be better as well, but with a good player this may not be an issue.
Conversely, if you think the larger size set is important then take the UT as many have liked that as well and are happy with the PG. For us, the ST was the best option for overall performance.
Good luck with your Decision! cool.gif

Thanks for the response. I agree the filter is not a huge buying point for me with the enclosed porch I have covering some of the sunlight. I guess I do have to decide if I want the better performance over size and price. What exactly is different about the processing in the ST compared to the UT and what difference does it make? I know the whole wi fi built in thing is a nice feature, but I've never had a smart tv before and I'm not even sure how much I would use that.
post #3562 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by jester18 View Post

Thanks for the response. I agree the filter is not a huge buying point for me with the enclosed porch I have covering some of the sunlight. I guess I do have to decide if I want the better performance over size and price. What exactly is different about the processing in the ST compared to the UT and what difference does it make? I know the whole wi fi built in thing is a nice feature, but I've never had a smart tv before and I'm not even sure how much I would use that.

You might consider the UT and then get the Panasonic Blu-ray DMP-BDT220 Player; which has apps and WiFi for about $130. You would have everything except the web browser. The processor difference is the 2500 sub field drive that makes the PQ less Jittery. Mostly seen in gaming or an action flick from what I have read from others and observed at the store. I did not have an option for a 55" for either TV, it was 50 or 60; which was way out of my price range. That said, if the 55UT and the 50ST were the same price then I would still take the 50ST. Time will tell if I made the right choice, but I think I would be regretting more if I had gone the other way. I hope this helps, have a good day!
post #3563 of 9972
I just returned my ST and bought a GT. I love the ST but I prefer more custom settings so I can toggle daytime/nighttime settings, plus the pro calibration settings. other than that, the St is far and away the best picture for the money currently.
post #3564 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason370 View Post

I just returned my ST and bought a GT. I love the ST but I prefer more custom settings so I can toggle daytime/nighttime settings, plus the pro calibration settings. other than that, the St is far and away the best picture for the money currently.

Interesting. Please report back to us on how you feel about the picture etc on the GT compared to the ST.
post #3565 of 9972
Ok, I've been playing around a bit more with the 3D on my 60ST50, including watching some demos from Vudu (Tangled, Tron Legacy). I also have a few 3D Blu-rays I've sampled but not watched all the way through.

I've noticed that when there's a lot of fast moving action, especially when stuff comes flying at the screen quickly, that it makes my eyes go crazy and I lose focus. Things seem to get briefly jumbled. Very disorienting. This did not happen to me on the LG LCD with the passive 3D that I had for a few weeks.

So is this crosstalk I'm experiencing? Or something else? Maybe a personal problem? biggrin.gif I thought crosstalk was more the separating of images. Which is maybe what this is, I don't know.

Whatever it is, it's happening a lot and is somewhat unpleasant and takes me out of the picture. Slow stuff looks great.

I tried the 48hz setting briefly, but I don't remember it being that much better.
post #3566 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwinston View Post

Ok, I've been playing around a bit more with the 3D on my 60ST50, including watching some demos from Vudu (Tangled, Tron Legacy). I also have a few 3D Blu-rays I've sampled but not watched all the way through.
I've noticed that when there's a lot of fast moving action, especially when stuff comes flying at the screen quickly, that it makes my eyes go crazy and I lose focus. Things seem to get briefly jumbled. Very disorienting. This did not happen to me on the LG LCD with the passive 3D that I had for a few weeks.
So is this crosstalk I'm experiencing? Or something else? Maybe a personal problem? biggrin.gif I thought crosstalk was more the separating of images. Which is maybe what this is, I don't know.
Whatever it is, it's happening a lot and is somewhat unpleasant and takes me out of the picture. Slow stuff looks great.
I tried the 48hz setting briefly, but I don't remember it being that much better.

Thanks for the review regarding the 3D features I am really keen to find out if this tv can handle watching movies/documentarys/sports on 3D. They mention you need to set your tv settings to 48hz and have a 24fps blueray player is your blueray player 24fps ?

Question how did the viewing of 3D content from YouTube etc look like ? Did it look 3D without any issues describe ?

Cheers
post #3567 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokonutz View Post

Thanks for the review regarding the 3D features I am really keen to find out if this tv can handle watching movies/documentarys/sports on 3D. They mention you need to set your tv settings to 48hz and have a 24fps blueray player is your blueray player 24fps ?
Question how did the viewing of 3D content from YouTube etc look like ? Did it look 3D without any issues describe ?
Cheers

Yes, I have the TV set to 48hz for the 3D and am using a PS3 as the BD player. Setting it to 24fps or not doesn't seem to make a difference.

Haven't tried any YouTube 3D content, just Vudu as I said above.

After reading more about it, I'm definitely convinced crosstalk is what I'm experiencing. I watched the 3D BD of Cave of Forgotten Dreams tonight. Most of it was okay, because it's a pretty slow camera-movement movie. But whenever there was a fast scene or something coming towards the camera, watch out. Major headache. The best example is right at the end before the Postscript, there's two hands reaching out toward the screen. But what I see is actually 3 (or even 4) hands. There's a giant ghost hand all the way off to the left side of the screen, pretty far from the actual hand it is duplicating. I can see this when paused, with the glasses off. With the glasses on, it's like an Escher painting. When switching to 2D mode, it looks fine of course.

I took some pix and could maybe post them if anyone wants to see.

So far not impressed with the 3D! But I've read that this disc is a poster child for crosstalk, so hopefully other movies will be better.
post #3568 of 9972
everyone keeps talking about the flashes at during hockey but I'm not sure that isn't something at Staples Center for photography. I've been there and seen in first hand. Perhaps this is the hockey issue?
post #3569 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Howarth View Post

everyone keeps talking about the flashes at during hockey but I'm not sure that isn't something at Staples Center for photography. I've been there and seen in first hand. Perhaps this is the hockey issue?
Yes thats been posted about a lot here. Its definitely flash strobes and I recorded the last game of the Stanley Cup hockey match earlier this week in HD on my HD-DVR and played it back on both my 50ST50 as well as a Samsung HD LCD display and they both show similar flashes from the overhead strobes. Its in the video signal, and not a particular display issue.
post #3570 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianshaun85 View Post

Anybody has settings for 3d mode?

Here are my own 3D settings I came up with after the 100hour slide panel prep on my 50ST50 with the Panasonic 2012 3D glasses and using an AVS709 disc on my Panasonic 3D blu-ray player (BDT210) in 2D->3D mode to get the TV in 3D mode for the test patterns.

*** 3D Mode Picture Settings ***
No expert calibrator settings are available, so did my own basic calibration by hand with AVS709 test patterns
Can't do white balance perfectly without extra equipment, so for now using default white balance and Warm1 which looked the best for my eyes.

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 80 (can increase in the range 80-100 as needed)
Brightness: 60
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Color Temp: Warm1
Color mgmt: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings
Colorspace: Normal
W/B High R: 0
W/B High G: 0
W/B High B: 0
W/B Low R: 0
W/B Low G: 0
W/B Low B: 0
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.2
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Aspect Adjustments
Screen Format: Full (for HD input)
HD size: Size 2 (for 16:9 HD input)
H size: Size 1 (for 4:3 SD input)

HDMI Settings (default settings)
HDMI/DVI RGB range: Auto (for HDMI1-3)
Contents type: Off (for HDMI1-3)

Advance Picture
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black Level: Light (for HDMI inputs)
3:2 PullDown: On (CNET says it won't work right in Auto)
24p Direct In: 60Hz (or use 48Hz for reduced 3D crosstalk according to CNET)
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