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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 173

post #5161 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by ttinLV View Post

Well my beloved TH-50PH8UK is no more. Party got out of hand and the screen and glass are "spidered" from an object tougher than it. Lasted flawless for almost 8 years.
Started to look at the TH-50PF30U, then thought I'd look at the consumer side.
Gravitated towards looking at the TC-P50U50, a bump to 1080p and no 3D and smart stuff. Just a display like I want, because I already have an HTPC with Arcsoft Total Media for HD DVD/Blu-Ray and apparently a rare thing called Internet connection using a browser.
That'll be my fall-back purchase. I went through all of the pages in this post and thanks to all of you, I am now just on the edge of hitting "Place Order" on a TC-P65ST50.
I haven't really been on the forum for these past many years since the HD DVD v. Blu-Ray fight. So I need to catch up on the IR/Burn-In thing and why after all these years, it's seems to be an even bigger issue now on a Plasma.

I don't know that it is an even bigger issue now. I will say though that my 09' Panasonic G15 had zero IR or Burn in...Then my 11' Panasonic GT30 definitely has the IR and burn in. Now my new ST50 is more like my G15. I haven't yet noticed any temporary image retention at all. Perhaps those who do have different builds or something. Or maybe some users here prefer high contrast settings and are a bit more careless. Who knows.
post #5162 of 9972
Quick question involving Pandora on the ST50. I have mine hooked up to a Sony HT-CT550W soundbar and went to play pandora. The app pulled up and started to play but i had no sound. Any one know how to make this work?
Also i had a vertical line on mine but only on one tv station about a 1/2" in from the left edge. When i changed the channel it was gone. Anyo9ne experience this issue?
post #5163 of 9972
No breaking news here.....

Picked up a 55ST50 about 3 weeks about to replace a 50S2. I am blown away with the ST. D-nice 100 hour break in and his settings. Love it. The S2 was also setup with his settings. The blacks and darks on the ST are way better than the S2. I always watched my S2 more than I watched my optoma HD20 projector. The pj is getting less use than ever with the ST!

The 50S2 got a 180 degree wall mount and moved to my bedroom where it currently hangs over the end of my bed! Awesome bedroom TV!

I don't see how anyone can complain or have any reservations about the PQ on these ST's. Just get it out of the store.

I have no IR problem on the ST and a very faint History Channel "H" on my S2.
post #5164 of 9972
Keep in mind this is a niche forum where people will pick equipment to death on things the general public will neither see or hear also you have fanboys of each product line that like to belittle anything that is not made by their favorite line kinda like Mac vs PC except on a grander scale at times.
post #5165 of 9972
Will have my plasma professionally calibrated...

To those who have had the st50 calibrated...
Understanding that calibrations are performed for the most optimal dark room viewing

Is it bright enough after calibration to enjoy in day time hrs??
post #5166 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckinSoregon View Post

Will have my plasma professionally calibrated...
To those who have had the st50 calibrated...
Understanding that calibrations are performed for the most optimal dark room viewing
Is it bright enough after calibration to enjoy in day time hrs??

Yup looks great in full daylight!
post #5167 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuckinSoregon View Post

Will have my plasma professionally calibrated...
To those who have had the st50 calibrated...
Understanding that calibrations are performed for the most optimal dark room viewing
Is it bright enough after calibration to enjoy in day time hrs??
You can calibrate a TV to be suitable for different lighting conditions, not just a dark room. A good calibrator should ask you this. Depending on the charge I suppose, they can usually calibrate two modes, one for day and one for night (and 3D, which needs to be calibrated separately). The ST50 doesn't have two modes that calibrate really well, just one, and another that is just pretty good (Custom mode is very good and Cinema is pretty good). Main difference is that Custom mode has a gamma slider whereas Cinema mode doesn't, and the default gamma in Cinema mode is between 2.0 -2.11, which is fairly low.

Feel free to let your calibrator know what you like and dislike and what lighting conditions you want him to calibrate for.
post #5168 of 9972
Have had my 65ST50 for about a week now. Ran the 100 hour DNICE slides and am currentlyusing his settings. So far I love the TV, have no problems with buzzing (even with the loudest slides on mute--my PS3 simply being on far outdid the small buzzing I got from theTV) or IR, and the picture is absolutely spectacular. I love it!!!!!

My question to you owners who have mounted it (or any other of the 65"ers)....what wall mount brackets do you use??

Thanks!
post #5169 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

Quick question involving Pandora on the ST50. I have mine hooked up to a Sony HT-CT550W soundbar and went to play pandora. The app pulled up and started to play but i had no sound. Any one know how to make this work?
Also i had a vertical line on mine but only on one tv station about a 1/2" in from the left edge. When i changed the channel it was gone. Anyo9ne experience this issue?

The Pandora app is "broken" in that there is no screen saving provision to keep the sationary logo moving around to prevent IR or eventual burn-in. Don't use it until it's fixed or you can damage your set.

The other problem is fairly common, though more often happens on the top edge of the picture. It's sloppy centering on the part of the tv station. Use one of the overscan modes on the tv and it will go away.
post #5170 of 9972
manfr42720,

Using a Sanus VLL10 low profile. See http://www.sanus.com/ca/en/products/visionmount/low-profile-mount/VLL10

Easy to install and works as advertised.
post #5171 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by manfr42720 View Post

Have had my 65ST50 for about a week now. Ran the 100 hour DNICE slides and am currentlyusing his settings. So far I love the TV, have no problems with buzzing (even with the loudest slides on mute--my PS3 simply being on far outdid the small buzzing I got from theTV) or IR, and the picture is absolutely spectacular. I love it!!!!!
My question to you owners who have mounted it (or any other of the 65"ers)....what wall mount brackets do you use??
Thanks!

Just head on over to monoprice.com and choose whatever mount would work best for your situation.
post #5172 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post

The Pandora app is "broken" in that there is no screen saving provision to keep the sationary logo moving around to prevent IR or eventual burn-in. Don't use it until it's fixed or you can damage your set.
The other problem is fairly common, though more often happens on the top edge of the picture. It's sloppy centering on the part of the tv station. Use one of the overscan modes on the tv and it will go away.

Ok thanks for the info.
I noticed on Pandora it just kept the same screen up, so i was just testing it out. Should the sound come through though. When i was testing it, it says it was playing but the sound was from the TV channel that it was on instead of Music.
post #5173 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

Ok thanks for the info.
I noticed on Pandora it just kept the same screen up, so i was just testing it out. Should the sound come through though. When i was testing it, it says it was playing but the sound was from the TV channel that it was on instead of Music.

Depends on your setup and how everything is connected. If you run a digital optical cable from the digital optical out on the set to the digital optical input on the soundbar and select that input on the soundbar you should get audio from the apps on the tv, and from the set's tuner and whatever other source devices are connected directly to the set.

If you want to do Pandora without risking your set and without consuming 300 or so watts you can purchase something like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11305982 and connect it to an unused analog input on the sound bar. I'm sure there are other, less expensive products of this kind available, just found that one in a hurry.
post #5174 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post

Depends on your setup and how everything is connected. If you run a digital optical cable from the digital optical out on the set to the digital optical input on the soundbar and select that input on the soundbar you should get audio from the apps on the tv, and from the set's tuner and whatever other source devices are connected directly to the set..

I'll have to look. After reading up on my Receiver i noticed that it can pass 3D through ARC, so i will be reconfiguring and removing the digital optical cables and running everything through HDMI
post #5175 of 9972
I've been looking around and found one poster on another forum who said apps on Panasonics will only play audio through the set's internal speakers. He mentioned his was a 42" set so probably low end, don't know if this applies to ST50 series models. My thought would be that if audio from, say, netflix is passed via optical digital out then Pandora should also.
post #5176 of 9972
Hey Frankie juts wondering if you got the replacement st50 in yet and did you test to see if the posterior ion still affects ps3 gaming on 720 p content
post #5177 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwood Blues View Post

I don't hear buzzing (nor does my wife who can hear a pin drop at 100 paces...) but I do know that the TV does "vibrate" depending on the screen content. You can feel it by touching the top of the TV. At first I thought I had the internal speakers on but that wasn't it. Maybe sticking some of that sound proofing/deadening material on that back (avoiding any vent holes) would reduce/eliminate more noticeable buzzing.
ETA- and the vibration is more pronounced when the contrast/brightness are in the upper ends of their range.

What is this sound proofing material you speak of? link?

It still buzzes in very random spurts. Its not constant so I dont think the TV is flawed or broken. I notice it at night mostly, when the volume is usually very low and its easier to notice it.
post #5178 of 9972
Despite the paranoia I have a 60" ST and have had no IR problems gaming while running ~85 contrast, ~58 brightness, and 2.2 gamma. It's a bright setting but I have a bright room and it's how I like the set to look. Regardless, I've had no problems with IR with a few 3-4 hour games (I'm pretty good) of black ops zombies, which is actually a terrible test because there are several fixed logos that stay up for probably 3 hours straight in some cases (perk logos, score zeroes, etc.). Checking up close with black and white slides afterwards I can't see anything, so I'm done worrying about it. None of my other main Pannys (S1 and then a 60u prior) had any trouble, either.

I also notice no problem with input lag... I think the sub 20ms rating on the game mode would be good enough for even the best gamers, and the sub 40ms rating on other modes won't bother a normal player, though I could see it being noticeable for a few very, very, die hard (and exceptionally talented) FPS gamers... but I am not that guy and the other 0.001% would be on a PC anyways.

I don't post in the TV forum terribly often but I wanted to post up first hand experience to help balance out the paranoia. This set replaced a 54" S1 that has served me well for the past couple years, which replaced a 50" 60u prior.

I did not run the break in slides but did let the TV run with full screen content for the first few days, same as I have done with every other Plasma I've owned.

D-nice's settings are too dark for me... I am running his "no break in" settings with a bump to ~85 contrast, ~58 brightness, and 2.2 gamma. It's alot brighter than D-Nice's settings which bothers me but from all my reading I'm not sure if his settings really apply to a 60" set. Regardless, for now it's how I like the set adjusted for my room and preferences. I do all my viewing with two large torch lamps on in the room making it just about bright enough for comfortable reading, in a completely dark room his settings would probably be ok and I have no doubt they are likely more accurate. Regardless of the overall brightness preference his settings are awesome in terms of color balance. The set looks amazing.

All in all I'm very happy with this set, I consider it to be a nice picture quality upgrade over the S1, and the nicest Panasonic set I've had in terms of picture from the 7-8 Panasonics I've had in my house over the years (have 3 in the house that have been upgraded and trickled down).
post #5179 of 9972
I have this tv hooked up to an AVR and I am getting my audio for the tv apps through the digital optical port. I get 5.1 on the tv apps so all is well there but my AVR has an on screen menu and I am unable to see it when watching the tv apps. The digital optical port from the tv is hooked up to the AV4 input on my AVR. Is there a way to hook up my receiver to this tv for apps and OTA broadcasts and get 5.1 and still be able to view my receivers On Screen Display?
post #5180 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I have this tv hooked up to an AVR and I am getting my audio for the tv apps through the digital optical port. I get 5.1 on the tv apps so all is well there but my AVR has an on screen menu and I am unable to see it when watching the tv apps. The digital optical port from the tv is hooked up to the AV4 input on my AVR. Is there a way to hook up my receiver to this tv for apps and OTA broadcasts and get 5.1 and still be able to view my receivers On Screen Display?

If your AVR has ARC and you use input 2 (HDMI) on the TV.
post #5181 of 9972
Mine seems still very prone to short term IR. I have about 240 hours on the unit and still any bright object on darked background displayed 20 seconds show when checking gray pattern. I clears after minute or two watching TV. Has everyone had this problem and it did go away after 400 hours like someone here mentioned? Are TV's manufactured after certain date (I noticed some mentioning about May) less prone to IR (anyone swapped older unit to never and no more IR)? Mine is made in April I think.

So far there has been no permanent IR but I have been running it mostly (about 80% or more total hours) zoomed so that channel logos and subtitles are off the screen. I only uses normal aspect ratios when I'm actually watching it. So far I have been trying to get hours on the unit so that I can calibrate it, which is the main worry I have here. How on earth I can use windowed test patterns because there will be after image? Do I have to after every round of measurement run normal TV program to clear it? If after images are not cleared they will affect calibrating, like measuring dark window and you have brighter after image from brighter test pattern.
post #5182 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

Mine seems still very prone to short term IR. I have about 240 hours on the unit and still any bright object on darked background displayed 20 seconds show when checking gray pattern. I clears after minute or two watching TV. Has everyone had this problem and it did go away after 400 hours like someone here mentioned? Are TV's manufactured after certain date (I noticed some mentioning about May) less prone to IR (anyone swapped older unit to never and no more IR)? Mine is made in April I think.
So far there has been no permanent IR but I have been running it mostly (about 80% or more total hours) zoomed so that channel logos and subtitles are off the screen. I only uses normal aspect ratios when I'm actually watching it. So far I have been trying to get hours on the unit so that I can calibrate it, which is the main worry I have here. How on earth I can use windowed test patterns because there will be after image? Do I have to after every round of measurement run normal TV program to clear it? If after images are not cleared they will affect calibrating, like measuring dark window and you have brighter after image from brighter test pattern.

What do you have the brightness and contrast set to?
post #5183 of 9972
I switched mine to ARC, but didn't run the pandora app to see if i had sound. I did not have sound using the optical wires though.
Also for those wondering about the PS3, i have played a few games and have no lag nor any IR. I'm on the 60" set as well. If i remember right my settings are 80 contrast, 57 Bright, 46 Color with a 2.4 gamma. Still tweaking of course, but i'm only in my third week with this set and did not run the slides. I'll be picking up the Disney WOW disc in a bout a week and see what it can do.
I do have a question for those who set up their PS3. When it recognized the 3D, it asked about Linear PCM and gave me like five different ones. 3 of them where checked and two where not. What exactly was that? I still have the oldest PS3 too, so some of y'all may not have had this option.
post #5184 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by oztech View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I have this tv hooked up to an AVR and I am getting my audio for the tv apps through the digital optical port. I get 5.1 on the tv apps so all is well there but my AVR has an on screen menu and I am unable to see it when watching the tv apps. The digital optical port from the tv is hooked up to the AV4 input on my AVR. Is there a way to hook up my receiver to this tv for apps and OTA broadcasts and get 5.1 and still be able to view my receivers On Screen Display?

If your AVR has ARC and you use input 2 (HDMI) on the TV.

I have arc via hdmi to my denon 4311, and I have no way to access on screen display when in internet mode on the TV. If I exit out of internet, to normal sat TV, the OSD is there.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2
post #5185 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by oztech View Post

What do you have the brightness and contrast set to?
Sorry I forgot to mention. Brightness is default and contrast is dropped from default 60% to 50%. I even tested it so that I dropped contrast to 25% and even then short term IR, so it does not seem to be settings related.
post #5186 of 9972
Just an update in regards to posterization.

Unfortunately, it is still there in 720p from 8ft away on my 55ST50. I can't recommend this TV to someone who will play ps3 games exclusively if they do NOT have an up scaling AVR or video processor( by exclusively I mean not using the TV for ANYTHING else). If 360 is your console of choice you wont have this issue thanks to 360's internal scaler to scale everything to 1080p.

If you think you could deal with the posterization from the pics I have shown then go for it because its a great TV outside this issue. I am also going to contact Panasonic and see if I can get anywhere.

I watch a lot of different content and I think I am going to live with it for now until I get an AVR or a DVDO Edge. Its the only problem i have with the set and I know I will have even more if I switch to a different set.

Hope this helps!
Edited by Frankie1588 - 8/21/12 at 7:18am
post #5187 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

Sorry I forgot to mention. Brightness is default and contrast is dropped from default 60% to 50%. I even tested it so that I dropped contrast to 25% and even then short term IR, so it does not seem to be settings related.
The default brightness is to hot in my opinion after setup using S&M disc mine adjusted to 61 contrast and 51 brightness through an Oppo BDP-83 as I realize each player may handle output slightly different.
post #5188 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

Sorry I forgot to mention. Brightness is default and contrast is dropped from default 60% to 50%. I even tested it so that I dropped contrast to 25% and even then short term IR, so it does not seem to be settings related.

I would agree with this. I've done IR tests on the Standard setting (50 contrast/50 brightness) and the quick onset IR happens on my 60ST50 just as fast from the DVR and TV menus as it does with my Custom (82/56) setting. (And, again, it's visible on normal material, but only for a minute or two.) Never saw anything like it on my old plasma.

And for those who might charge that I'm careless or whatever, I am totally babying this set. Besides, the quick onset IR is something that happens pretty much immediately, with the menus up for less than a minute. This isn't a static-logo-up-for-hours situation, although that can be an issue too. I'm pretty sure I have over 400 hours on the set at this point.

Is it possible that altitude or other environmental factors could be aggravating this? Could explain (beyond panel variations) why some of us are seeing it and others aren't. I'm around 6000 feet up. No buzzing, but I do have this temporary IR!
post #5189 of 9972
thats very peculiar. I have no buzzing and no IR or even hint of IR on my 60". and like i said i think i'm at 80/57/46 and gamma at 2.4.
The environment may play a role but that seems like it would be strange
post #5190 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwinston View Post

I would agree with this. I've done IR tests on the Standard setting (50 contrast/50 brightness) and the quick onset IR happens on my 60ST50 just as fast from the DVR and TV menus as it does with my Custom (82/56) setting. (And, again, it's visible on normal material, but only for a minute or two.) Never saw anything like it on my old plasma.
And for those who might charge that I'm careless or whatever, I am totally babying this set. Besides, the quick onset IR is something that happens pretty much immediately, with the menus up for less than a minute. This isn't a static-logo-up-for-hours situation, although that can be an issue too. I'm pretty sure I have over 400 hours on the set at this point.
Is it possible that altitude or other environmental factors could be aggravating this? Could explain (beyond panel variations) why some of us are seeing it and others aren't. I'm around 6000 feet up. No buzzing, but I do have this temporary IR!

This is really interesting why some suffer from IR and some not. I have been babying my set too, even too much considering we should be able to use our sets normally.

Could it be they changed something so that newer sets don't suffer from IR? Could everyone reading this comment what is their set manufacturing date and do they have IR or not?

Also does every set (even latest production) have that annoying vertical line near the right edge? It is visible in gray field and yellow fields. What is causing that line, has anyone got explanation for that? Also in some test pattern I can see another distinct line near it. Left side has minor green blob visible only in certain gray level. It actually seems that these are more noticeable now after 240 hours than they were in the begin with.
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