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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 179

post #5341 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by HypostaticUnion View Post

I do not mean to get off topic, but I have a question. I can purchase an open-box 46-Inch XBR-HX929 for $1,200 plus tax. It was the display model, so it has been used roughly 3,500 hours. Or, I could purchase a brand new Panasonic 50-Inch ST50 for $1,300 plus tax. What do you fellas feel is a better choice? Or is a brand new Panasonic 50-Inch VT50 a better choice, albeit more expensive? I have owned several LCD's and one LED HDTV, but I have never owned a Plasma. If you are knowledgeable enough to give me some good advice, please do. smile.gif Thanks

In other word; should you spend $100 more on a NEW TV that is 4 inches larger? Or a used set that was on for 3500 hours? 3500 hours translates to over 5 months on continously, 24/7... that's alot of hours on a TV!

This is an easy decision; get the new plasma, it's well worth the money. I have one, and the picture is amazing.
post #5342 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by HypostaticUnion View Post

I do not mean to get off topic, but I have a question. I can purchase an open-box 46-Inch XBR-HX929 for $1,200 plus tax. It was the display model, so it has been used roughly 3,500 hours. Or, I could purchase a brand new Panasonic 50-Inch ST50 for $1,300 plus tax. What do you fellas feel is a better choice? Or is a brand new Panasonic 50-Inch VT50 a better choice, albeit more expensive? I have owned several LCD's and one LED HDTV, but I have never owned a Plasma. If you are knowledgeable enough to give me some good advice, please do. smile.gif Thanks

You might be better served by starting a new thread with your question.

If you are use to LCDs then this year's Panasonics will make the transition to plasma a bit easier, since they are brighter, but there will most likely still be an adjustment period for you. If you plan to have the tv professionally calibrated and/or need more than one excellent viewing option (bright room, open floor plan?), then get the ST, otherwise look into the GT or VT. However, given your budget, and looking at today's Amazon prices, the 50GT50 will go @ $100 over your budget and the 55VT5 is out of the ball park.
post #5343 of 9971
I'd like to purchase a TV mount.

Would this work with my 50ST50?:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082812&p_id=6284&seq=1&format=2

Can anyone confirm?
post #5344 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo View Post

Hi,
I just recently purchased a 55ST50 and so far I'm loving it. Anyhow, here is my calibration report
.
Panasonic_55ST50_Calibration_Report.png 798k .png file
Panasonic 55ST50 US Model
Calibrated to Rec709 using 25% pattern with i1 Display LT colorimeter
Picture
- - - - - -
Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: +90
Brightness: +55
Color: +46
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm2
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off
Pro settings
- - - - - - - - -
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +10
W/B high G: +1
W/B high B: +11
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: +4
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.6
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0
Quote:
I just recently purchased a 55ST50 and so far I'm loving it.

I am enjoying my 55 ST50 as well !

I looked at CNET settings a well as yours. It seems so many that calibrate choose a color temp of WARM2. I have the CNET settings in custom mode
with Warm2. But, switching back to Standard with Cool 1 or Cool2 makes the white chauk lines pop out in bright white against the green turf. I am sure panels vary slightly but don't you find whites to take on a slight very light tan color with the Warm 2 settings?

Does anyone else use Cool 1 or Cool 2 instead of the red push of the Warm?
post #5345 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super 8 View Post

I am enjoying my 55 ST50 as well !
I looked at CNET settings a well as yours. It seems so many that calibrate choose a color temp of WARM2. I have the CNET settings in custom mode
with Warm2. But, switching back to Standard with Cool 1 or Cool2 makes the white chauk lines pop out in bright white against the green turf. I am sure panels vary slightly but don't you find whites to take on a slight very light tan color with the Warm 2 settings?
Does anyone else use Cool 1 or Cool 2 instead of the red push of the Warm?

That "tan" look you are seeing with warm2 is actually the correct calibrated color. The rec709 HD specification calls for a color temperature of 6500K. Color temperature affects the way your colors appear, especially white. This is also what studios use when they produce the movies. If you want your TV to look close to what the directors and producers intended, then you should use warm2.

This is my measured color temperature using Warm2.



Now, this will only appear as "tan" if you compare back and forth with Cool modes. After you watch Warm2 for a while, your eyes will get use to it.
Edited by kanedo - 8/27/12 at 11:25am
post #5346 of 9971
Quote:
Now, this will only appear as "tan" if you compare back and forth with Cool modes

Actually I was watching football at the time and playing around with settings. To be fair I should focus a a few movies and see if Warm 2 is a good setting for me.

Sports and OTA shows do not follow the same strict editing as the studios.
post #5347 of 9971
Is doing the D Nice prep and settings necessary? I heard a lot of people say the screen is dim with his settings. I will be in a bright room and watch TV (NFL) a lot during the day. This leads me to believe maybe I don't really need to do his prep as it is specifically designed for his setting (which will probably be too dim for me anyway).
post #5348 of 9971
Does anyone have any settings for audio system?
post #5349 of 9971
I picked up a 55ST50 from BB on Friday. I had a 46 S1 for years and it looks better know than when it was new. But the additional size of the 55'' is appreciated. I'm very pleased with the picture so far. I'm trying a few different settings from some of the posts here. I ended up returning a Samsung ES7100 LED, no problem with it good picture and all but the value just was not there for me as it was $750 more than the ST50. While we had the LED the S1 was in the bedroom and every time I watched it would just grab me with it's realistic picture. Nothing wrong with the LED they both have their place. I thought about getting a 55GT50 but no one stocks them around here and not sure the THX mode etc.. is worth the additional costs. Now the VTs additions and styling is very tempting but again it is significantly more expensive. Time will tell but I think the ST line fits my needs perfectly.
post #5350 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by rzanwu36 View Post

Is doing the D Nice prep and settings necessary? I heard a lot of people say the screen is dim with his settings. I will be in a bright room and watch TV (NFL) a lot during the day. This leads me to believe maybe I don't really need to do his prep as it is specifically designed for his setting (which will probably be too dim for me anyway).


The prep with the slides is just to age the pixels equally prior to doing any calibration (not just the D Nice settings but any calibration can’t be done until the pixels have aged for a while simply because they change a lot over the first 200 hours or so). The slide are a good way to get the set ready for use too without worrying about IR. Even if you don't intend calibrating the set at all it's still a good idea to break it in with all pixels working equally. I ran the slides whenever I wasn't watching content and let them run overnight until I had clocked up 200 hours. I now have zero issues with IR.

post #5351 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post


The prep with the slides is just to age the pixels equally prior to doing any calibration (not just the D Nice settings but any calibration can’t be done until the pixels have aged for a while simply because they change a lot over the first 200 hours or so). The slide are a good way to get the set ready for use too without worrying about IR. Even if you don't intend calibrating the set at all it's still a good idea to break it in with all pixels working equally. I ran the slides whenever I wasn't watching content and let them run overnight until I had clocked up 200 hours. I now have zero issues with IR.

I think I want to go this route. Just don't think I can wait until Friday to watch anything other than colors. I will at most log about 8 hours from now until then. Is this sufficient in your opinion (the other 92 hours of slide prep) to be close enough to D Nice's settings?
post #5352 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ticmxman View Post

I picked up a 55ST50 from BB on Friday. I had a 46 S1 for years and it looks better know than when it was new. But the additional size of the 55'' is appreciated. I'm very pleased with the picture so far. I'm trying a few different settings from some of the posts here. I ended up returning a Samsung ES7100 LED, no problem with it good picture and all but the value just was not there for me as it was $750 more than the ST50. While we had the LED the S1 was in the bedroom and every time I watched it would just grab me with it's realistic picture. Nothing wrong with the LED they both have their place. I thought about getting a 55GT50 but no one stocks them around here and not sure the THX mode etc.. is worth the additional costs. Now the VTs additions and styling is very tempting but again it is significantly more expensive. Time will tell but I think the ST line fits my needs perfectly.


Congrat's

Now sit back and enjoy !!
post #5353 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super 8 View Post

Actually I was watching football at the time and playing around with settings. To be fair I should focus a a few movies and see if Warm 2 is a good setting for me.
Sports and OTA shows do not follow the same strict editing as the studios.
HD, whether it's sports or OTA, follow the same rec.709 standard as Blu-Ray. Warm2 is the closest to D65 which is why everyone chooses it, because it's the best starting point. Cool1 and Cool2 are as far away from D65 as you can get. A properly calibrated Warm2 should not have tanned skin tones or red push... it should look natural. Also note that not all sources are mastered the same way, so some sources might look dark, some bright, some vibrant and some dull, but the idea is to calibrate your TV to D65 and view the source in the director's view.

Keep in mind that transferring settings over from other panels is never perfect. If you plug someone else' settings in and they look off, I would set the white balance settings back to zeros. Just because someone has posted calibration settings doesn't mean they're even 100% accurate because not all colorimeters are accurate for all display types, and some cheaper colorimeters lose accuracy relatively quickly because they have exposed filters and they deteriorate. Colorimeters need correction tables for certain display types to even be close to accurate. Pros use expensive spectroradiometers that use different measuring methods that work for all display types, plus they last a very long time before they need any servicing done. Most pros also use a colorimeter along with their spectro because colorimeters have benefits over spectros, such as speed and better low-light measuring. You can also use your spectro to profile your colorimeter, which basically calibrates it.
Edited by rahzel - 8/27/12 at 3:45pm
post #5354 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoisyuri View Post

I'd like to purchase a TV mount.
Would this work with my 50ST50?:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082812&p_id=6284&seq=1&format=2
Can anyone confirm?





I got that exact same one for my 55ST50 works great sits about 2'' from the wall. I had to use the one inch spacer supplied because the power cord connection sticks out about 1" from the mounting points. Still a slim wall mount. The 50" and 55" share similar mounting specs. It will work for the 50ST50.
Edited by meguerra - 8/27/12 at 3:47pm
post #5355 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super 8 View Post

Actually I was watching football at the time and playing around with settings. To be fair I should focus a a few movies and see if Warm 2 is a good setting for me.
Sports and OTA shows do not follow the same strict editing as the studios.
Myself I use Warm1 as a compromise on my 50ST50, perhaps Normal is another alternative, but not the Cool settings - they are way too bluish.
If you watch a live outdoor sports event like Golf the grass and other scenery looks more realistic with Warm1 or Warm2 than on the Cool color temps.
Many folks are used to the overly blue (cool) color temp from older improperly set TVs. But your eyes will gradually get used to a warmer color temp if you use if for several days or weeks.
post #5356 of 9971
Hey all, I have a question about the pixel orbiter. I have the P60ST50 and love it - great picture and I want to keep it that way. I have searched around and haven't found a clear answer concerning the pixel orbiter.

My questions are: how do I know that it's enabled and working? What settings do I have to have enabled for it to work?

I have read that the aspect ratio has to be set to "HD1", but when I set it to "HD2" and go into the orbiter setting, it still says that the orbiter is enabled. I just want to be sure that this is up and running.

Also, I've heard mention of break in slides all over this forum, but no link to these slides. Can someone please direct me to where I can get them?

Thanks!
post #5357 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by rzanwu36 View Post

Is doing the D Nice prep and settings necessary? I heard a lot of people say the screen is dim with his settings. I will be in a bright room and watch TV (NFL) a lot during the day. This leads me to believe maybe I don't really need to do his prep as it is specifically designed for his setting (which will probably be too dim for me anyway).

No need to run them at all.
Slides do nothing to prevent IR.

Enjoy your tv.
post #5358 of 9971
Does anyone use the tv speakers and have any advice on the settings?
post #5359 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

HD, whether it's sports or OTA, follow the same rec.709 standard as Blu-Ray. Warm2 is the closest to D65 which is why everyone chooses it, because it's the best starting point. Cool1 and Cool2 are as far away from D65 as you can get. A properly calibrated Warm2 should not have tanned skin tones or red push... it should look natural. Also note that not all sources are mastered the same way, so some sources might look dark, some bright, some vibrant and some dull, but the idea is to calibrate your TV to D65 and view the source in the director's view.
Keep in mind that transferring settings over from other panels is never perfect. If you plug someone else' settings in and they look off, I would set the white balance settings back to zeros. Just because someone has posted calibration settings doesn't mean they're even 100% accurate because not all colorimeters are accurate for all display types, and some cheaper colorimeters lose accuracy relatively quickly because they have exposed filters and they deteriorate. Colorimeters need correction tables for certain display types to even be close to accurate. Pros use expensive spectroradiometers that use different measuring methods that work for all display types, plus they last a very long time before they need any servicing done. Most pros also use a colorimeter along with their spectro because colorimeters have benefits over spectros, such as speed and better low-light measuring. You can also use your spectro to profile your colorimeter, which basically calibrates it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BriscoCountyJr View Post

Myself I use Warm1 as a compromise on my 50ST50, perhaps Normal is another alternative, but not the Cool settings - they are way too bluish.
If you watch a live outdoor sports event like Golf the grass and other scenery looks more realistic with Warm1 or Warm2 than on the Cool color temps.
Many folks are used to the overly blue (cool) color temp from older improperly set TVs. But your eyes will gradually get used to a warmer color temp if you use if for several days or weeks.

Actually I am enjoying the H out of the picture quality on the 55 ST50. I was watching the Saints game and noticed the white chaulk lines looked just slightly light tan until I switched to cool2, but I only changed the setting as a test.

Thank you both for the insight I will continue tweak a little here and there. Honestly I have not found any settings that I dislike, but tweaking is always fun.
post #5360 of 9971
What Plasma has better Picture Quality: The 50ST50 vs, The 55VT50? Reviews I have read state they are equal. The reviews also says that the ST50 has a brighter contrast level and exhibits more "Pop" to the picture. Please help. Thanks
post #5361 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by meguerra View Post


I got that exact same one for my 55ST50 works great sits about 2'' from the wall. I had to use the one inch spacer supplied because the power cord connection sticks out about 1" from the mounting points. Still a slim wall mount. The 50" and 55" share similar mounting specs. It will work for the 50ST50.

because of the power cord issue; would you recommend another mount? or should i just make a small hole in the drywall to accommodate the power cord connector so the tv sits more flush with the wall? i guess the third option is to use the spacer...
post #5362 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by HypostaticUnion View Post

What Plasma has better Picture Quality: The 50ST50 vs, The 55VT50? Reviews I have read state they are equal. The reviews also says that the ST50 has a brighter contrast level and exhibits more "Pop" to the picture. Please help. Thanks


I own the vt50 and the ut50, the ut is close to the st with out the filter. The vt has the edge in picture quality but it's not a crazy jump.
post #5363 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoisyuri View Post

because of the power cord issue; would you recommend another mount? or should i just make a small hole in the drywall to accommodate the power cord connector so the tv sits more flush with the wall? i guess the third option is to use the spacer...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082812&p_id=6424&seq=1&format=2

If you want it closer than 2" than yes you would have to cut out a small section of the dry wall for the plug to sink into. These are the slimmest mounts I have found.
post #5364 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by HypostaticUnion View Post

What Plasma has better Picture Quality: The 50ST50 vs, The 55VT50? Reviews I have read state they are equal. The reviews also says that the ST50 has a brighter contrast level and exhibits more "Pop" to the picture. Please help. Thanks

What reviews?
post #5365 of 9971
The VT is current champ the ST can be professionally calibrated to get close but the VT will still have the edge.
post #5366 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by oztech View Post

The VT is current champ the ST can be professionally calibrated to get close but the VT will still have the edge.

What is noticeably better about the VT50 vs. the ST50? Thanks
post #5367 of 9971
How about this: 55HX929 vs Panasonic 55VT50? Which is better and Why? Thanks
post #5368 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by HypostaticUnion View Post

How about this: 55HX929 vs Panasonic 55VT50? Which is better and Why? Thanks
You should try to check them out yourself. You're asking others to advise you about something that's basically personal taste.
post #5369 of 9971
Quote:
Originally Posted by meguerra View Post

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082812&p_id=6424&seq=1&format=2
If you want it closer than 2" than yes you would have to cut out a small section of the dry wall for the plug to sink into. These are the slimmest mounts I have found.
Would it help using one of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT1120131-HC1-Liberator-Adapter/dp/B0051MQER0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346154079&sr=8-1&keywords=Hug+a+plug
post #5370 of 9971
Does the 55'' ST50 have a cooling fan?

Also my tv has a build date of February, any pros or cons to that early build date?
Edited by Ticmxman - 8/28/12 at 6:21am
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