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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 203

post #6061 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Invincible11111 View Post

Okey so soon this TV is mine, im gonna run it in to be safe but what mode should i run when i do it? Im gonna get it calibrated and you do that in true cinema so should i run it in true cinema? And should i lower the contrast from the start? Is it 100 hours or 150 hours?
You have the EUR model?

I would wait for at least 150-200 hours before you get it professionally calibrated. Use whatever mode you want, just avoid black bars as much as possible. True Cinema mode is the closest out of the box, so I would use that.
post #6062 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBoyBlue View Post

I'm not a fan of doing any kind of break-in because it hasn't been proven scientifically to be of any use any way I'm ware of. So the suggestions apply across the board. The only thing I would watch for in the initial couple hundred hours or so of operation of a new set is really common sense. Don't leave any static image on screen, set the screen saver avoid any content or at least excessive amounts of anything that causes bars.

I didn't do anything special for my previous Panny. But, it was more of a bargain-priced set, if that makes sense. Since I have invested (well, expensed) a little more $$$ into this one I wanted to be sure not to mess it up. But, I don't know if the girlfriend will allow me to run any break-in DVD's aside from overnight. wink.gif I am sure that she will just be more interested in actually watching the set. I have told her to avoid static images (like when she pauses the Roku) or to turn the set off when pausing content for a long period of time.
post #6063 of 9972
Thank you for the links to the faq page, greatly appreciate it. I really want to make sure I take care of new plasma when I get it, so my question is if I decide not to do break in slides, and just watch blu rays and keep away from black bars, gaming, static images, and scrolling bars for 100-150 hours or so, is that efficient as well? Can i do part break in slides part regular tv? Or do I have to stick to one option or the other. Sorry for the questions, I just want to make sure I break the tv in properly.
Thanks!
post #6064 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaymerkramer View Post

The one thing I wish the Panasonic had is the ability to turn off the screen when using an app such as Pandora. I really like Panasonic's interface on Pandora but I am not going to leave the still image on my screen while listening to it. The LG had an option to turn off the screen but leave everything else running. Not a huge deal since I have 5 other devices that can run Pandora but maybe something for them to think about.
Now that more and more TV can be connected to the internet with the possibility to run audio apps (Pandora, Shoutcast...), it would make sense to be able to turn off the display indeed.
With the audio being redirected to the A/V receiver for a better experience smile.gif
post #6065 of 9972
I got the Panasonic P60ST50 yesterday. Started watching Supernatural Season 7 on Netflix (HD). Did not mess around the settings and all settings on default Cinema profile. Picture looks really good. Although, I see a full screen blink or a black flicker every once in a while. Is there a way to fix this or is it the source material from Netflix? I am using the Panasonic app tool for Netflix. Not seeing the same flicker on SD regular cable.
post #6066 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeepFreezed View Post

I got the Panasonic P60ST50 yesterday. Started watching Supernatural Season 7 on Netflix (HD). Did not mess around the settings and all settings on default Cinema profile. Picture looks really good. Although, I see a full screen blink or a black flicker every once in a while. Is there a way to fix this or is it the source material from Netflix? I am using the Panasonic app tool for Netflix. Not seeing the same flicker on SD regular cable.
Try turning off C.A.T.S.
post #6067 of 9972
OK, so the 60ST50 just arrived. During the inital set-up, and subsequent attempts, to connect the Wi-Fi the TV scans but does not find any wireless networks. I live in an apartment complex so it should find several. I went to the link mentioned on the Quick Start Guide and selected my TV (http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/tv/compatibility/usb/2012/option4_2a.html). Does the TV only work the Access Point models listed? I have a Buffalo wireless router which is obviously not on the list. Is this a bigger issue?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
post #6068 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBoyBlue View Post

I don't know exactly where you live, but I just used the BB store locator and punched in Evansville, and they still show they're selling the 55 inch of the ST50 as are other BB stores in your area and they have it in stock. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=pcat17006&type=page&skuId=4947672&searchpage=true&_requestid=32989
I was going to get mine from BB, but Amazon had it for $300 cheaper and I saved not paying the sales tax which is super high in Illinois. If you order from Amazon you'll probably get it from the big warehouse in Indpls., where mine came form, about 200 miles away from me, go it within 3 days of ordering.
Update: I just tested the above link and it only shows the page to enter the zip code, not the results, which must have been a redirect. Anyhow, this is what I was trying to show, just a partial list near you:
EVANSVILLE IN
6300 E LLOYD EXPRESSWAY , EVANSVILLE , IN 47715-2720
Map & Directions Available now
Pick up 10/09/2012
OWENSBORO KY
5101 FREDERICA ST , OWENSBORO , KY 42301-7494
Map & Directions Available now
Pick up 10/09/2012
PADUCAH KY
5101 HINCKLEVILLE RD , PADUCAH , KY 42001-9049
Map & Directions Available now
Pick up 10/09/2012
CARBONDALE IL
1270 E MAIN ST , CARBONDALE , IL 62901-3115
Map & Directions Available now
Pick up 10/09/2012
Im wanting the 60' inch with is no longer on BB web site, thanks though :-)
post #6069 of 9972
When you guys say, "stay away from anything that cause black bars" , do you mean Dont watch any movies that are letterboxed?
post #6070 of 9972
"The one thing I wish the Panasonic had is the ability to turn off the screen when using an app such as Pandora. I really like Panasonic's interface on Pandora but I am not going to leave the still image on my screen while listening to it. The LG had an option to turn off the screen but leave everything else running. Not a huge deal since I have 5 other devices that can run Pandora but maybe something for them to think about."
Pandora has a screen saver mode so that when it's playing only the cd cover art is shown and it constantly moves around the totally black screen on my 55ST50. I've been using Pandora on a 42" Panny plasma for two years also and never had any problems. Does yours not do this or have you had problems with IR or burn-in?
post #6071 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

When you guys say, "stay away from anything that cause black bars" , do you mean Dont watch any movies that are letterboxed?

Right.

The "theory" which I'm not totally buying is more or less the idea for a plasma set during break-in, anywhere from 100-500 hours depending on who you ask the idea is to try to get all the pixels to be more or less equally used (break-in) which itself is wishful thinking. If you watch a lot of 4/3 aspect (where you see bars at the top/bottom and or sides of the picture then those pixels aren't used and thus the theory is they won't "break in" equally. The oppostie side of the coin is if you watch mostly one station during the break in period and it has a larger, brighter "bug" (the network logo) then the opposite will happen, ie those pixels get over used and can "burn-in" resulting in a ghost image when you switch channels which might take some time to disappear and in extreme cases could damage the screen to the point any "burn-in" or image retention stays. Same if you play games or use the set where a static image is on screen for a long time, typically hours.

Now I've read several posts in other forums where the poster has reported buying a "open box" plasma or a store demo that has been running for who knows how long looping the same thing. While some have reported they see some mild "burn in" (a faint image retention) they also reported that after a period of between several weeks to a few months of normal use the burn in did disappear totally.

If you see any image retention or burn-in or have a stuck pixel go to setup on the menu, scroll down to anti image retention, select the scrolling bar option which will "wipe" the screen left to right with nothing but a moving page of black, then white which will run for 15 minutes or just press any button to turn it off before.
post #6072 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

You have the EUR model?
I would wait for at least 150-200 hours before you get it professionally calibrated. Use whatever mode you want, just avoid black bars as much as possible. True Cinema mode is the closest out of the box, so I would use that.

I dont have it yet but it's the eu-model. Okey thanks, im gonna wait 150-200 hours. I just set it to True cinema then use the break in images on a usb the first 150-200 hours.
post #6073 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBoyBlue View Post

Right.
The "theory" which I'm not totally buying is more or less the idea for a plasma set during break-in, anywhere from 100-500 hours depending on who you ask the idea is to try to get all the pixels to be more or less equally used (break-in) which itself is wishful thinking. If you watch a lot of 4/3 aspect (where you see bars at the top/bottom and or sides of the picture then those pixels aren't used and thus the theory is they won't "break in" equally. The oppostie side of the coin is if you watch mostly one station during the break in period and it has a larger, brighter "bug" (the network logo) then the opposite will happen, ie those pixels get over used and can "burn-in" resulting in a ghost image when you switch channels which might take some time to disappear and in extreme cases could damage the screen to the point any "burn-in" or image retention stays. Same if you play games or use the set where a static image is on screen for a long time, typically hours.
Now I've read several posts in other forums where the poster has reported buying a "open box" plasma or a store demo that has been running for who knows how long looping the same thing. While some have reported they see some mild "burn in" (a faint image retention) they also reported that after a period of between several weeks to a few months of normal use the burn in did disappear totally.
If you see any image retention or burn-in or have a stuck pixel go to setup on the menu, scroll down to anti image retention, select the scrolling bar option which will "wipe" the screen left to right with nothing but a moving page of black, then white which will run for 15 minutes or just press any button to turn it off before.
Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.
post #6074 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.

You don't have to wait 100 or so hours at all. The only people who probably follow these "rules" of breaking in TV's and what not is probably a fraction of a % of owners.

Remember, you are on a forum dedicated to people who are video/audio-philes, which is hardly the norm.

Probably 99.99% of people who go to the store and buy TV's go home, plug them in, and start using them immediately.

And yes I made all of those values up smile.gif
post #6075 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.
I bought mine back in July and adjusted the picture settings using a Spears & Munsil setup disc and have been watching it ever since the set comes on at 9 in the morning and gets turned off at midnight so far so good and it has had the best picture of all my TV's if they had something better for the money I would own it.
I don't game on it and rarely watch any SD material and if a football game is on I am watching it.
post #6076 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeromeOudoul View Post

Now that more and more TV can be connected to the internet with the possibility to run audio apps (Pandora, Shoutcast...), it would make sense to be able to turn off the display indeed.
With the audio being redirected to the A/V receiver for a better experience smile.gif

Thats why an external device with internet apps like a blu-ray player that supports Shoutcast, etc may be preferable for internet audio apps.
Just connect the external device to a receiver via optical connection and turn the TV off.
post #6077 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.

I'm not trying to arm twist anybody into buying a plasma over a LED or to not do burnin or whatever. Its your choice, do what you want. That said there's a few things that might influence your buying choice.

Plasma sets are generally cheaper than same size LED. That doesn't mean the LED is better, nor does it mean the plasma is better. It has to do with how the sets are made. LED sets have extra circuits and the panel (or so I'm told) is harder and more expensive to make. Again because of how they are made a LED with have a brighter picture. Plasma sets generally have more true, realistic colors and generally they are more vivid and natural. LED sets run cooler but have issues like motion blur, clouding, uneven color intensity across the width of the screen... again due to how they're made. Some plasma sets might have a low but annoying hum under certain conditions.

To your question specifically, it isn't that you absolutely must not watch a movie showing bars and be strict about that for a 100 hours or longer, rather don't watch anything the first 100 hours or so that always has bars.

The final deciding factor for me and I was on the edge of getting a Samsung 8000 series, was some of the issues I mentioned, (see threads in ths forum that discuss it to death) and the cost factor. If I would have gone with with LED, it would have cost about $800 more. Instead I saved that and turned around and bought a blu ray player and a Qnap NAS which was also on my wish list.
post #6078 of 9972
I recently bought (within the previous 2 weeks) an LG 55 LM7600 LCD/LED from Best Buy. This was after 5-6 trips to Best Buy, checking out all the flat panels, but looking predominantly at the Panasonic plasmas each trip. I read a ton of reviews on different sites as well as this thread. Just about every review cited how good the ST50 was. I just couldn't pull the trigger on the plasma. I kept over thinking it. What about IR? What about glare (my family/tv room is located adjacent to our sun room)? So, when Best Buy dropped the price of the LG down to just under $1400, I pulled the trigger on it. It had good reviews, passive 3D, and was an LCD/LED, so no IR issues, although there is some glare.

I should be happy, right? Although I have enjoyed the LG, I still come to this thread several times a day to read everyone's opinion of this set. My main complaints with the LG are trying to get it adjusted so that the picture looks good to my eye and, even with TruMotion turned on, I still seem to get some motion blur.

Today, I had to run into the local mall for some items, so I walked into Sears and over to the Electronics department. They had a UT50 playing some soccer footage. I think my jaw hit the floor. I could see the ball so clearly....even the different colored areas on the ball were evident as it rotated. Previously, when I looked at the ST50 at Best Buy, it was on a 3D display that just ran in a loop. I asked several of their employees if there was any way to see something different to get a better feel for the tv, but they said that they couldn't change anything on it. I can't help but think that the ST50 would look just as good as the UT50 I saw, maybe even a little better.

So now, it looks like I've got a decision to make. I can still return the LG to Best Buy and their inventory shows that they have the ST50 in stock. I think that I have read enough to know that if I take some precautions that IR shouldn't be an issue. And that if some IR does occur, then it can be removed.

Thanks for sharing your experiences with this set and with plasmas in general. Looks like I've a tv to return.
post #6079 of 9972
I have a questions for those that got the 55" . Does anyone wish they had gotten the 60" ? Is there that big ( $400 ) difference in the 5 inch's?
post #6080 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

I have a questions for those that got the 55" . Does anyone wish they had gotten the 60" ? Is there that big ( $400 ) difference in the 5 inch's?
I am satisfied with the 55 since the wife and I set about 7 ft from the screen it works out great maybe if we set 9ft or farther back then yes i would have wanted a 60 or bigger.
post #6081 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.


I have watched 3 or 4 movies with black bars before I even reached the 60 hour mark with no issues. I had more of an issue with a static image that was on the screen for less than 5 minutes than i had with black bars.
post #6082 of 9972
I got the 65 inch for the same reason. You're looking at the size difference the wrong way. It is a five inch difference on the diangle. I copied the below URL long ago hoping some day it would come in handy. ;-)

To do the math we need to use the Pythagorean Theorem. If you forgot, ask your kid if they're still in school. The formula is A^2 + B^2 = C^2 where A & B are length/width of the sides of a triangle and C is the length of the hypotenuse. So to compare a 50 inch to other screen sizes. Allowing for the frame a 50 inch has about 1,067 square inches of screen while a 60 has about 1,537 square inches, while a 65 inch has about 1,804 square inches of viewing area. So I had a old 50 inch, and upgraded to a 65 inch (1804 -1067 ) = 737) more square inches of viewable area.

No, I'm no math wizz Check out this site, plug in the screen size you are considering. http://www.nicetaco.com/tv.aspx#calculator

The caculator is at the bottom of the page. Remember to change aspect ratio to 16/9 if comparing flat panels.
post #6083 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by DawgFan View Post

I recently bought (within the previous 2 weeks) an LG 55 LM7600 LCD/LED from Best Buy. This was after 5-6 trips to Best Buy, checking out all the flat panels, but looking predominantly at the Panasonic plasmas each trip. I read a ton of reviews on different sites as well as this thread. Just about every review cited how good the ST50 was. I just couldn't pull the trigger on the plasma. I kept over thinking it. What about IR? What about glare (my family/tv room is located adjacent to our sun room)? So, when Best Buy dropped the price of the LG down to just under $1400, I pulled the trigger on it. It had good reviews, passive 3D, and was an LCD/LED, so no IR issues, although there is some glare.
I should be happy, right? Although I have enjoyed the LG, I still come to this thread several times a day to read everyone's opinion of this set. My main complaints with the LG are trying to get it adjusted so that the picture looks good to my eye and, even with TruMotion turned on, I still seem to get some motion blur.
Today, I had to run into the local mall for some items, so I walked into Sears and over to the Electronics department. They had a UT50 playing some soccer footage. I think my jaw hit the floor. I could see the ball so clearly....even the different colored areas on the ball were evident as it rotated. Previously, when I looked at the ST50 at Best Buy, it was on a 3D display that just ran in a loop. I asked several of their employees if there was any way to see something different to get a better feel for the tv, but they said that they couldn't change anything on it. I can't help but think that the ST50 would look just as good as the UT50 I saw, maybe even a little better.
So now, it looks like I've got a decision to make. I can still return the LG to Best Buy and their inventory shows that they have the ST50 in stock. I think that I have read enough to know that if I take some precautions that IR shouldn't be an issue. And that if some IR does occur, then it can be removed.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with this set and with plasmas in general. Looks like I've a tv to return.

I returned an LG 55LM7600 and got a 60ST50 instead, and I'm still glad I made the switch. The PQ on the LG, along with the uniformity, motion artifact and other picture issues, was just too much for me. Yes, I have occasional IR issues with the ST50, but it really is a minor thing. My gf was glad I made the switch too, she couldn't stand the LG (faces didn't look right to her) and is much happier with the Panny. No noticeable glare issues with the Panny for me. In fact, I think the LG was worse in that regard.

I did like the 3D better on the LG though.
post #6084 of 9972
Well my 60" ST50 shipped today. I should have it on Friday.

I was hoping to have it for the games this weekend but I am probably going to do the D-Nice preparation and run his slides for 100 hours before I start using it, which would put me early next week.

I still have my DLP and stand that I can use for the meanwhile so I think I'm just going to do that.

I will definitely post back with how I feel the input lag is on this thing for gaming as well, once it's been broken in.
post #6085 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.
If you watch a single source that always has the same fixed image or black bars, and never watch any other type of material, a plasma is probably not a good idea. If you watch movies, on DVD or Blu-ray disks, and watch a variety of TV material then you shouldn't have any trouble owning a plasma display.

I watch mostly movies with black bars (top and bottom or on each side) constantly. I watch HDTV with and without logos. My wife watches NHL games, and I watch NFL games constantly when they are available. I've owned my plasma for almost five years. I've never noticed any image retention (IR).

What I wouldn't do with a new TV, right out of the box, is put it on ESPN for 16 hours a day. As long as you mix what you watch you shouldn't have any trouble. Also, I wouldn't spend a lot of time playing with the settings from the setup menu (high contrast fixed images) until the display has a few hundred hours on it.

A lot of people, who do have problems, find them because they examine their screens using different colored slides. They find IR, which is temporary by definition. If they just stuck to watching a reasonable mix of regular sources, they would probably be happy campers.

The most important factor in selecting plasma vs. LCD/LED is how you will use the display. Enjoy.
post #6086 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman76 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

Really? Im starting to rethink the "plasma" road then. I mean I want to watch movies right away and not wait 100 hrs or something,thats total crap IMO.


I have watched 3 or 4 movies with black bars before I even reached the 60 hour mark with no issues. I had more of an issue with a static image that was on the screen for less than 5 minutes than i had with black bars.
Were you able to see the "static image" when you watched other program material like TV, DVD or Blu-ray?
post #6087 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by BriscoCountyJr View Post

Thats why an external device with internet apps like a blu-ray player that supports Shoutcast, etc may be preferable for internet audio apps.
Just connect the external device to a receiver via optical connection and turn the TV off.
Or even better, an A/V receiver with an audio service embedded (vTuner for instance) wink.gif
Examples :
http://testpreisz.com/sony-str-da3700es-av-receiver-7-2-channel/
http://www.eu.onkyo.com/en/products/tx-nr616-76093.html
post #6088 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLEHD View Post

OK, so the 60ST50 just arrived. During the inital set-up, and subsequent attempts, to connect the Wi-Fi the TV scans but does not find any wireless networks. I live in an apartment complex so it should find several. I went to the link mentioned on the Quick Start Guide and selected my TV (http://panasonic.jp/support/global/cs/tv/compatibility/usb/2012/option4_2a.html). Does the TV only work the Access Point models listed? I have a Buffalo wireless router which is obviously not on the list. Is this a bigger issue?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Does anyone know anything about this?

Also, is it generally accepted to have gamma at 2.4 (which, from what I understand is actually 2.2) or 2.6 (~ 2.31)? Should I make the switch now or later when I would go to calibrate (using Spears & Munsil or AVCHD)?
post #6089 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by CLEHD View Post

Does anyone know anything about this?
Also, is it generally accepted to have gamma at 2.4 (which, from what I understand is actually 2.2) or 2.6 (~ 2.31)? Should I make the switch now or later when I would go to calibrate (using Spears & Munsil or AVCHD)?

not sure, someone about two pages back listed theirs and said 2.0-2.2 worked for them. Every set will be different and look different in certain lighting.
post #6090 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by EricST View Post

I have a questions for those that got the 55" . Does anyone wish they had gotten the 60" ? Is there that big ( $400 ) difference in the 5 inch's?
Here ya go. Just punch in the numbers and it will show you the size difference.
http://www.displaywars.com/
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