Originally Posted by BillyBoyBlue
Oh please... I have over 50, that's FIFTY years experience messing with all kinds of electronic equipment starting when I was a kid, everything from ham radio, to all manor of electronic gadgets, including main frame computers, to tv's including building one from scratch and for sure some of the crap posted here and elsewhere makes me roar with laughter.
I couldn't care less how much "experience" you have. You're an amateur, simply put. You're arguing against professionals that have FAR more ACTUAL experience than you EVER had, period. I guess a 30-year cook at McDonalds is a better cook than a 5-year chef at a 5-star restaurant.
I don't usually respond to Stawman comments, like you trying to suggest I said getting a better quality HDMI cable is better than a calibration. Get serious.
You're making it sound like pro calibrations aren't worth it, yet you say HDMI cables make a difference. So in a way, you are saying that a quality HDMI cable is better than a calibration. No a pro calibration isn't worth it for everyone, but the fact of the matter is, ANY set on the market will benefit from a pro calibration. Whether the owner of the set sees the difference or not is the question. Just because you don't think a pro calibration is worth it, doesn't mean that it isn't to someone else. Again, not everyone is as lenient when it comes to PQ.
The point about the slides is there is NO POINT in running them. That's call FACT. If you can dispute it, then supply some facts, not just opinion. The idea you're suggesting is laughable. Person A tellling others hey do this and your set will be the same as my reference set is commical and shows ignorance on the part of the person offering such advice especially if said person is suppose to be a "professional" calibrator, whatever that's suppose to be.
How is it a fact? Can you prove it? No, because you have no equipment to take measurements. Spectroradiometers or even colorimeters are far more accurate than the human eye is, and it has been proven that plasmas drift at a faster rate during the first 100-200 hours of use, and how the TV is used during this time has an affect (albeit minor) on how the TV performs once it settles. Make no mistake, I don't mean that it will make your set perform better, it will just remove one variable. You are obviously completely unaware of the purpose of the slides, and you ignored my reasoning above. Once again, you're basically saying that one of the most respected calibrators in the world (D-Nice) is wrong.
The FACT is all sets off the assembly line are a tad different. As I explained before this is in part due to the components having relatively loose tolerances.
Yes, when have I said otherwise?
Now some FACTS on so-called "professional" calibration. It all depends on who comes to your home and what tools he brings and if he knows how to properly use them. He should bring a pattern generator, sometimes called a signal generator. A good one USED costs at least $1,000. He'll also need a pro grade light meter. Again good ones are expensive. VERY expensive, thousands. Then there's the software. Calman and a couple others are the most often used. That isn't cheap either.
Yes, all quality professionals have expensive meters and usually have signal generators. Something you DON'T have, yet are arguing against these professionals.
As far as your comments on Delta scores, hate to break the bad news to you, that too has a large BS factor. The ST series while a fairly expensive set, is NOT the top of the line. There's two models above it. This is one of those read the fine print times. When it comes to calibration how good a result you get also depends on WHAT can be adjusted. Take gray scale which is a very important setting. The ST series only has two levels. The two higher Panasonic models have a 10 step grayscale. In fact Calman has a feature where it can be plugged directly into the Panasonic and automaticlly make adjustment changes through software. Trying to calibrate a ST50 you're trying to tweak the settings by messing for example with the high and low settings in the pro settings menu by prime color adding or taking away from the white value. Not as effective.
Doesn't matter what controls the ST50 doesn't have, the grayscale can still be calibrated to < 3 deltaE, even with a simple 2pt system. In fact, most decent display can. And the ST50 doesn't have a Color Management System, but dE94 is still under 3 once the grayscale has been calibrated and by simply using the Color control. The VT50 by comparison, can be calibrated to dEuv and dE94 of <1. This has been shown in calibration reports by pros. I myself have calibrated my ST50 to an average dE of ~1.6. Don't tell me what the ST50 is and isn't capable of, when you don't have any measuring equipment.
Finally while light meters are for sure more accurate than the human eye and can detect trivial differences we can't both in color and luminance I got a simple question. Did you buy your tv for some fancy light meter or are YOU going to be the actually watching it using your eyes?
I bought a fancy light meter because calibration interests me and so that I can calibrate all of my displays so that I can enjoy them. What's your point?Edited by rahzel - 11/3/12 at 1:16pm