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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 228

post #6811 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tweezak View Post

.....
My wife called me at work and told me the TV had mysteriously power cycled again. ..... the TV just turned off...and she lost connection with my brother too..... I asked if the dropped call happened at the same time as the TV power cycle and she said it did.
So now it appears that those two devices...the TV and the repeater are just more sensitive to power fluctuations than other devices. I've known for some time that our power is crap.....
So now I'm in the market for a UPS or a power conditioner. Does anyone have a recommendation?
Oh...I don't have a lot of money either. Thanks!

We have had short duration power glitches in our area for some years - just enough to reset any electronic clock that lacks a battery backup. mad.gif

Don't know how tight $$ are, but would suggest taking a look at the Cyberpower 1350AVR that CostCo is selling for under $100 (believe it is under $90) - of course, you - or someone you know - would need a CostCo membership.

That seems like a relative bargain price for the specs. All-in-all, we've had better luck with APC and CyberPower than with Belkin or even TrippLite (2 of our TrippLites have ran through their warranty period, & then "failed" without warning - in spite of the fact that they supposedly have a built-in Status Check...).

We currently have our 60ST50 - and other HT equip - connected to one of the CyberPower units (TV and STB are connected to battery; balance to surge protection only).
Note that the intent here is NOT to use the UPS to actually run the TV, but merely to prevent minor (that is, Brief) power outages / dips from turning the set off.

So far so good, although the CyberPower is still relatively new: TrippLites ran fine for the first couple years of their lives. At least the CyberPower came with a 3-year warranty.... wink.gif
post #6812 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by TennisFreak View Post

So far on normal viewing I have not noticed any green tint or any
Does anyone else use the DLNA feature of their TV to watch streamed movies from their home network? If so do you ever notice any lag/dropped frames? I do know that it is not my network because it is a wired CAT 6 through and through. I have tested every outlet and cable with a network tester and also software bandwidth testers so I know I am getting gigabit speeds (my router and swtiches are all gigabit capable). Just wondering if its something with this model in general or if it is specific to my set. The occasional lag is not a deal break as its not terrible and I could always stream through my blue-ray player and/or xbox if I really wanted to avoid it.

I use it all the time since one of my things is making movies, technically videos biggrin.gif

DLNA works fine for me, no stalling or jumping, not even for HD and that's using WiFi so a ethernet connection should be as good or better. If you have a lot of content I suggest you look into J River Media Center or MC for short, which is awesome as far as what you can do with it. It mostly software based but has no many features and currently is in version 18 you jaw will drop all you can do with it. Cost $50. At least download the free trial and give it a try. It is database format and what is possible is mind blowing. http://www.jriver.com/
post #6813 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Its really very simple. If the buzzing is loud enough to bother you during regular viewing then return, exchange or call Panasonic. No sound meters or cell phones or data charts or endless technical jargon is required.

That's certainly sound advice. My only question is whether there's actually wiggle room for the problem to be alleviated on my set or if I'm just very sensitive to something that most people ignore. Being on my second set with serious buzzing now (and having had the Panasonic-licensed third-party tech tell me there was nothing much they could do when they looked at the first one) I have to wonder if both TVs I've had were operating within Panasonic's tolerance. But when people here say they can never, ever hear it outside of slides with their heads up against the TV, and yet I can often hear it clearly during TV, video games, and movies from my couch, it makes me feel like there's something else to be done. But what?
post #6814 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

You're free to do what you want... everyone has a different opinion. I didn't run the slides either, but I calibrate my own displays. Some people will feel that eyeballing is good enough, some people look for calibration settings, some do their own calibrations, and some will settle for nothing less than a professional calibration. Saying one these things are for everyone is complete ignorance. That's up to the owner of the display to decide.
If you think that the slides will do harm to your plasma, all I can say is that there is no proof of this. D-Nice has been doing this for years, and not just with Panasonic plasmas, Pioneer Kuros as well. Hundreds, if not thousands of people have done his prep and have been pleased with the results. Best case scenario would be buzzard's example, who is a THX certified calibrator, where someone hired him to calibrate his display -- someone who had followed D-Nice's prep instructions and buzz didn't have to make a single adjustment. Due to panel variances, the odds of this happening are very low.
BillyBoyBlue feels that he has more knowledge than anyone here but has been proven wrong by myself, as well as a THX certified calibrator and continues to question the knowledge of Dewayne Davis (D-Nice). How he feels that he has more knowledge than professionals with zero background is laughable. His arrogance has him so defensive against anyone else' opinion that differs from his own.

The constant bad mouthing of me and lying about I actually said is a bit much, don't you think?

1. I don't claim to know more than anyone else. That's YOUR words and from anger. Not mine.
2. I never said the slides do harm, I have constantly said nobody yet has offered a shread of evidence of what value they are. Hint: Because they have none.
3. I reported OTHER people have reported problem after using slides, like ending up with a pink tinted screen. You got a beef with that, take it up with them.
4. I do agree with you on one point. Some here are PIG HEADED.

What I find rolling on the floor funny is how a few ill advised posters keep attempting to elevate the phase "professonal calibration" to some mystical guru like magic. That couldn't be further from reality. Some might find it curious that the moderators of this forum (or whoever has rights to delete posts) last night removed a post I made where I linked to the ISF site that provides courses for "certification". I guess to hide the truth about the fact the course is mostly a seminar course. LOL! A 16 year kid could take the course and become a "professional calibrator", just bring cash to get the certificate.

Hint: I have nothing against anyone using slides or having a calibration done, nor do I have any ax to grind with "professional" calibrators. But come on guys tell the truth. ANYONE can buy the software such as Calman, then an appropriate light meter and optionally rent/buy a signal generator (not really needed) and guess what, you can be your own "professional calibrator". all the how-to is included in the software.

The conslusion if you haven't figured it out yet is there's no magic to the process. No experience needed either. The software takes readings and you simply make adjustments and try to get close to some "specs" which guess what are only loosely ageed to as to what they should be by the manufacturers. While some "experineced" calibrator probably will get it done faster, pretending they can do it better is 100% pure BS.
post #6815 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudds View Post

That's certainly sound advice. My only question is whether there's actually wiggle room for the problem to be alleviated on my set or if I'm just very sensitive to something that most people ignore. Being on my second set with serious buzzing now (and having had the Panasonic-licensed third-party tech tell me there was nothing much they could do when they looked at the first one) I have to wonder if both TVs I've had were operating within Panasonic's tolerance. But when people here say they can never, ever hear it outside of slides with their heads up against the TV, and yet I can often hear it clearly during TV, video games, and movies from my couch, it makes me feel like there's something else to be done. But what?

Honest, I feel sorry for people that have loud buzzing. BUT... that's why I posted a wave form of the sound and did the same testing procedure of the sound file from a buzzing set. If that was you or somebody else that linked to a file of their set buzzing, I forget. My conclusion is this. What you are others are hearing is normal background noise BUT sadly yours is much louder than "normal". That is all but proven since the wave forms of my set and that from a "buzzing set" are virtually the same pattern, only difference being how loud the buzzing is.

This is a tough nut to crack. I see both sides. For Panasonic, they can't play musical tvs and keep swapping sets until you get one tquite enough tomake the consumer happy. For the consumer, I would be pissed I paid around $2,000 or so for a set that makes so much noise you can't enjoy normal viewing. I would try a different approach. Most everyone these days has a cell phone and regardless if a i-phone or Android you should be able to find some recording app if one already by default isn't already set up. Make a recording of the noise, explain how far from the set you are and so on and see if you can get it elevated to some higher ranking tech .I think part of the problem with calling tech support is you have to battle your way past the call screener who is NOT a tech and probably will try to blow you off.
post #6816 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudds View Post

That's certainly sound advice. My only question is whether there's actually wiggle room for the problem to be alleviated on my set or if I'm just very sensitive to something that most people ignore. Being on my second set with serious buzzing now (and having had the Panasonic-licensed third-party tech tell me there was nothing much they could do when they looked at the first one) I have to wonder if both TVs I've had were operating within Panasonic's tolerance. But when people here say they can never, ever hear it outside of slides with their heads up against the TV, and yet I can often hear it clearly during TV, video games, and movies from my couch, it makes me feel like there's something else to be done. But what?
Everyone's hearing is different. Every plasma I've owned (including two 60ST50s) or have been around has buzzed to degree, and some of the most experienced calibrators have said the same thing. It has never been to the point of annoyance, though. I can only hear the buzzing on my 60ST50 if it's a completely silent room on a high APL (average picture level) screen.. this is usually when plasmas buzz.

Panasonic plasmas are generally known for having less buzzing issues than the competition. Considering you've gone through two of them makes me think that the level of buzz you're hearing might be 'normal' and that you're really sensitive to it. The only thing you can really do is keep exchanging it until you find one that's at a level that's not annoying to you and hopefully defect free.
Edited by rahzel - 11/4/12 at 9:46pm
post #6817 of 9972
Can someone tell me is the gt worth 300 more. I wonder if it is cause CNET review it and said the st was just as good but that wouldn't make any sense on price difference.
post #6818 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdsniper7 View Post

Can someone tell me is the gt worth 300 more. I wonder if it is cause CNET review it and said the st was just as good but that wouldn't make any sense on price difference.
The ST50 and GT50 both perform the same once calibrated, which is how Cnet rated both sets. They use the same panels, screen filters and have the same set of calibration controls. Cnet also factors in price, which is why the ST50 is their top rated model.

The differences between them are mainly features/ports and aesthetics. The noteworthy advantages of the GT50 are:
-Additional THX modes (Cinema, Brightroom and 3D)
-Extra inputs (1 extra HDMI and USB port)
-Dual-core processor (apps will run smoother)
-Aesthetics

The biggest advantage of the GT50 is the fact that it has the THX modes. They're not pre-calibrated modes, they're simply a bit more accurate than what the ST50 has to offer out of the box. Since the GT50 has a THX cinema and THX brightroom mode, they work well if you want separate settings for day and night viewing. On the ST50, if you wanted separate day/night settings, you would have to use Cinema and Custom mode, which aren't bad choices either, but not quite as good as the THX modes on the GT50. Most notably, Cinema mode on the ST50 has no control over the gamma and the gamma measures ~2.0 - 2.1, which is a bit on the low side. If you only need one picture mode, then the ST50 is every bit as good as the GT50 performance wise. If you need two picture modes, then the ST50 is just a bit worse than the GT50 due to the fact that the gamma in Cinema mode on the ST50 is a bit low.

If you don't know what gamma is, it's basically mid-tone brightness, or how fast the set comes out of black. Brightness sets black level and Contrast sets white level, then gamma sets everything in-between. If the gamma is too high, black details get crushed and the overall picture looks a bit dark. If gamma is too low, the picture is brighter but it looks relatively washed out.
post #6819 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdsniper7 View Post

Can someone tell me is the gt worth 300 more. I wonder if it is cause CNET review it and said the st was just as good but that wouldn't make any sense on price difference.
The picture quality and plasma panel is the same between the ST50 and GT50.
The GT50 adds some features and a different bezel style - only you can decide if they are worth the extra cost for your own needs.
The GT50 adds an extra HDMI and USB input port, a VGA (PC video) input port, a dual-core processor for faster internet apps.
Also provides extra THX settings modes.
post #6820 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyBoyBlue View Post

The constant bad mouthing of me and lying about I actually said is a bit much, don't you think?
1. I don't claim to know more than anyone else. That's YOUR words and from anger. Not mine.
2. I never said the slides do harm, I have constantly said nobody yet has offered a shread of evidence of what value they are. Hint: Because they have none.
3. I reported OTHER people have reported problem after using slides, like ending up with a pink tinted screen. You got a beef with that, take it up with them.
4. I do agree with you on one point. Some here are PIG HEADED.
What I find rolling on the floor funny is how a few ill advised posters keep attempting to elevate the phase "professonal calibration" to some mystical guru like magic. That couldn't be further from reality. Some might find it curious that the moderators of this forum (or whoever has rights to delete posts) last night removed a post I made where I linked to the ISF site that provides courses for "certification". I guess to hide the truth about the fact the course is mostly a seminar course. LOL! A 16 year kid could take the course and become a "professional calibrator", just bring cash to get the certificate.
Hint: I have nothing against anyone using slides or having a calibration done, nor do I have any ax to grind with "professional" calibrators. But come on guys tell the truth. ANYONE can buy the software such as Calman, then an appropriate light meter and optionally rent/buy a signal generator (not really needed) and guess what, you can be your own "professional calibrator". all the how-to is included in the software.
The conslusion if you haven't figured it out yet is there's no magic to the process. No experience needed either. The software takes readings and you simply make adjustments and try to get close to some "specs" which guess what are only loosely ageed to as to what they should be by the manufacturers. While some "experineced" calibrator probably will get it done faster, pretending they can do it better is 100% pure BS.
1)You dont claim to know more than everyone else. Only everyone who disagrees with you. 2) You have said several times that you think the slides may be doing harm because the tv is not made to be stressed that badly 3) The "other people" you refer to had the pink tinted screen BEFORE the slides also and have not said that they thought the slides had anything to do with it. Let people report their own problems. Conclusion. You are arrogant enough to demand the truth while you are lying.
post #6821 of 9972
the real question is.... does the GT50 have a better quality control process.... or is it less likely to suffer from pink tints (my ST50 has pink all over the place), buzzing, lesser crosstalk in 3D.....

if it is less likely to suffer from these things, then it is worth the extra money, seeing as the extra "features" are basically pointless. i would honestly like this answered, because im probably going to return my ST50 tomorrow due to weird rainbow colors that pop in while moving the camera quickly in gaming, and a light pink tint on the screen in white and grey screens on probably 25% of the screen. i would be willing to upgrade if it meant i had a better chance at avoiding these things.... but if not ill give one other ST50 a shot and then it is back to LCDs for me.
post #6822 of 9972
This will be the only warning...

Post about the product, not each other.
post #6823 of 9972
while i was flipping channels last night, i came across some dark scene and in the middle there was a door. I noticed on the door it seemed a little painted or something. Is my brightness to high to low. I know my descriptions is a little vague but it's the best i could think of.
Edited by sethmp - 11/5/12 at 8:48am
post #6824 of 9972
Personal attack post deleted. Member received 3 day suspension and banned from the thread. Please heed Mark's warning about keeping this thread focused on technical discussion.
post #6825 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lang View Post

This will be the only warning...
Post about the product, not each other.
My apologies.
post #6826 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

Everyone's hearing is different. Every plasma I've owned (including two 60ST50s) or have been around has buzzed to degree, and some of the most experienced calibrators have said the same thing. It has never been to the point of annoyance, though. I can only hear the buzzing on my 60ST50 if it's a completely silent room on a high APL (average picture level) screen.. this is usually when plasmas buzz.

Panasonic plasmas are generally known for having less buzzing issues than the competition. Considering you've gone through two of them makes me think that the level of buzz you're hearing might be 'normal' and that you're really sensitive to it. The only thing you can really do is keep exchanging it until you find one that's at a level that's not annoying to you and hopefully defect free.

When you talk about images with high APL, would you limit that to things like the white/grey slides, or do you see that frequently in normal viewing? I'm wondering what the cutoff is, because in my case, I routinely hear it during the normal local news and weather, in probably 50% or more of commercials, just about any random TV show, etc. It's pretty much constant.
post #6827 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lang View Post

This will be the only warning...
Post about the product, not each other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

Personal attack post deleted. Member received 3 day suspension and banned from the thread. Please heed Mark's warning about keeping this thread focused on technical discussion.

Thank you mods.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudds View Post

When you talk about images with high APL, would you limit that to things like the white/grey slides, or do you see that frequently in normal viewing? I'm wondering what the cutoff is, because in my case, I routinely hear it during the normal local news and weather, in probably 50% or more of commercials, just about any random TV show, etc. It's pretty much constant.
I wouldn't just limit it to white/gray slides... what I would consider 'high APL' is any bright scene (daytime). The buzzing varies depending on how high the APL is. But again, I can only hear it in a completely silent room from my seating position. The buzzing was present on both of the 60ST50's I had (first was returned because it was a floor model sold to me as new). The first one I had was built on January 2012 and my current panel was built on June 2012. Both were calibrated.

I used my power meter as a guideline, because as you may know, the power draw on plasmas varies depending on the APL. Anyway, I used Toy Story and Avatar as my test subjects; both movies have an aspect ratio of 1.78, so no black bars. White or light gray slides usually drew more power than regular viewing content, but regular viewing content can draw just as much power, but it didn't happen often and it happened in spikes when I was monitoring. Movies with black bars never spiked that high.

If you're using slides to judge the buzz, then I recommend not doing that. Try using your TV normally and see if the buzz bothers you. By 'using it normally' I also mean to adjust your picture settings to your liking, because (this is speculation on my part) but the Contrast and Gamma controls could have an affect (especially gamma) because they set peak brightness and mid-tone brightness respectively, and will increase the APL as you increase the brightness.
Edited by rahzel - 11/5/12 at 11:33am
post #6828 of 9972
TV showed up today. I've only messed with it for about an hour. I'm not exactly wowed by the picture but I'm not a videophile. Just looks like a regular HD TV to me. I probably would have been just as happy with the cheap E550 Samsung but oh well. My last set didn't buzz but the buzzing is noticable on this set. However I don't intend to hit the mute button and watch TV from 2 inches away anytime soon so it's okay. So far I just popped in Prometheus and noticed the "soap opera effect" that people mentioned and turned motion smoothing off. I haven't calibrated the TV yet. I use my TV for video games mostly but I'm a little afraid to so until I break it in so I guess I'll be watching a lot of Blu-Rays this week smile.gif. I don't have 3d glasses yet so I haven't tried that out.

Photobucket
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*edit* I was popping in random games to see what they looked like and I noticed the "waxy look" problem that Frankie was posting about way back in this thread. If memory serves it's a 720p issue. I popped in Tekken Tag 2 and didn't notice a problem until I got to the character select screen. It's not that noticeable from a proper viewing distance but I set close to my TV and MAN is it jarring! All of the character portraits looked like a water color painting ><. Now I gotta dig back through this thread and find out what his solution was.
Edited by Chris Mishima - 11/5/12 at 12:54pm
post #6829 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Mishima View Post

TV showed up today. I've only messed with it for about an hour. I'm not exactly wowed by the picture but I'm not a videophile. Just looks like a regular HD TV to me. I probably would have been just as happy with the cheap E550 Samsung but oh well. My last set didn't buzz but the buzzing is noticable on this set. However I don't intend to hit the mute button and watch TV from 2 inches away anytime soon so it's okay. So far I just popped in Prometheus and noticed the "soap opera effect" that people mentioned and turned motion smoothing off. I haven't calibrated the TV yet. I use my TV for video games mostly but I'm a little afraid to so until I break it in so I guess I'll be watching a lot of Blu-Rays this week smile.gif. I don't have 3d glasses yet so I haven't tried that out.
Photobucket
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*edit* I was popping in random games to see what they looked like and I noticed the "waxy look" problem that Frankie was posting about way back in this thread. If memory serves it's a 720p issue. I popped in Tekken Tag 2 and didn't notice a problem until I got to the character select screen. It's not that noticeable from a proper viewing distance but I set close to my TV and MAN is it jarring! All of the character portraits looked like a water color painting ><. Now I gotta dig back through this thread and find out what his solution was.

Turn your sharpness down to 0. I found that made a huge mprovement in PQ when I was messing with mine.
post #6830 of 9972
@chris... the first thing to do is take it out of standard mode and put it to custom or cinema. Just makin' sure you did that:)
post #6831 of 9972
I gotta go to work now. I'll play with the settings more when I get home.
post #6832 of 9972
That is also how I felt. I was never wowed the first time I turned the set on as the picture out of the box was never anything to write home about. I think this is where the GT50's THX settings have an advantage over the ST50s. The pic quality on my set is strictly source dependent. Iam currently using the cnet recommended settings. Blu rays look really good (except for the atrocious The Raid: Redemption) while OTA channels are so-so. I don't have cable/ satellite so I can't go there. Iam mostly concerened about the amount of dithering I'm seeing though. Sitting about 9.5 feet back I can see the picture noise from less quality sources and this really concerns me. The set in general isn't as sharp as I'm used to. Although I wasn't going to do any slides I have now decided to do so If this will improve the picture quality by aging the pixels before my return window closes with Amazon. I'm also a little disappointed in how OTA has been implemented on the set. There is no 1 click Favorites where you can cycle through your favorite channels without first accessing the favorites list and going from there. No guide of any sort as well where my older sammy plasma set from 2 years ago at least shows upcoming shows in 2 hour future increments. Both these issues are not any deal breakers by any sort of the imagination.


I have a request for owners of the 65ST50. Could you compare the pic quality of your sets by sitting 9.5 feet back and comparing it to say 11-14 feet back? Is there any difference in obvious overall pic quality like say perceived sharpness? If that's the case I might have to go down to the 60 to make it work for me as 9.5 feet is as far back as I could go in my current small sized living room.

Looking at a couple of pages for settings posted for the 65ST50, I've noticed that users like Bahzard and Billy Boy Blue have their color temperatures set to Normal instead of Warm 2. I'm not sure about Billy Boy but Bahzard has mentioned that his set was professionally calibrated. I have yet to try this but is this setting what other users have on theirs as well? Iam also curious to see what Rahzel's picture settings look like as its been mentioned numerous times but I couldn't find it for some reason. if there are other users out there that are happy with their settings for their 65- please share em as well. Maybe we can make a sticky for picture settings in general for the ST50 as there is no settings thread unfortunately for this model. If I keep my set- I will definitely have it prof. calibrated and will share them. Iam a true believer that this years ST50s absolutely need it to realize their true potential. In the mean time I hope to get close with different owners settings to improve my current lackluster picture settings to see what this set can potentially do.

Thanks!
post #6833 of 9972
Chris and Cher I have not calibrated my set yet but I will say that I think the "Warm" color temperature looks like crap on my 60 ST50.
post #6834 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post

That is also how I felt. I was never wowed the first time I turned the set on as the picture out of the box was never anything to write home about. ..... Blu rays look really good ....while OTA channels are so-so. I don't have cable/ satellite so I can't go there. Iam mostly concerened about the amount of dithering I'm seeing though. Sitting about 9.5 feet back I can see the picture noise from less quality sources and this really concerns me. The set in general isn't as sharp as I'm used to. Although I wasn't going to do any slides I have now decided to do so If this will improve the picture quality by aging the pixels before my return window closes with Amazon......
I have a request for owners of the 65ST50. Could you compare the pic quality of your sets by sitting 9.5 feet back and comparing it to say 11-14 feet back? Is there any difference in obvious overall pic quality like say perceived sharpness? If that's the case I might have to go down to the 60 to make it work for me as 9.5 feet is as far back as I could go in my current small sized living room......

Running one size down - 60ST50 - but we find that most blu-rays (& HDDVDs....) look Great from a 9ft viewing distance, but lesser quality sources, including most 'HD TV" shows (via Uverse), range from Acceptable (which is where majority of SD DVDs fall) to darn near Horrible. The larger panel - the ST50 replaced an older 50" Pan, which now resides in a different room - simply does a "better job" of showing off whatever flaws exist in the source, AND the set does not seem to handle the Uverse compressed signal as well as the 50" set (which is a 1366x768 panel).

(To be fair, the BEST "HD" programming we've seen on Uverse exceeds the quality of the typical SD DVD - and a reasonable number of shows are a joy to watch, even while falling below "blu-ray PQ.")

FWIW, my experience is that moving back to a 12 foot viewing distance (tall table & chairs directly behind the principle sofa) "solves" the PQ issues for nearly all SD DVDs, as well as for many "HD TV" shows - but the compression (presumably) applied to "dark" shows (Grimm is a prime example) results in extensive visible macroblocking / pixelation, which is present, but much less "visible" on our smaller panels.

Another potential "issue" is film grain, which in some movies / scenes is simply easier to spot on the 60" than on the smaller panels. In this case, the ST50 is merely doing a good job of accurately displaying the source, but the effect can still be distracting at times. Again, moving closer to the smaller sets, AND paying more attention, reveals the grain to be inherent in the source. And unfortunate side effect has been an "ability" to notice the inherent grain - and other flaws - when viewing a film in a movie theater! eek.gif

YMMV....
post #6835 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by TennisFreak View Post

Chris and Cher I have not calibrated my set yet but I will say that I think the "Warm" color temperature looks like crap on my 60 ST50.
Not everyone likes what a calibrated set looks like; while Warm2 may look like crap to you, it is the closest to D65.

Any owners of the 60/65 panels are free to try my settings on page 154.
post #6836 of 9972
Thanks Rahzel and Dierkdr.


Are there any ST50 owners out there that have no pixel noise on their sets while checking right up close to the screen that's playing content? The amount of noise that's on my 65ST50 has been really bugging me sitting about 9.5 feet back and completely horrendous when I inspect it up close. I just want to make sure that mine is as close to normal as everybody's out there and I'll be shocked if anyone says otherwise. Thanks for checking biggrin.gif
post #6837 of 9972
Final (?) update with regard to the 50 inch ST50 I bought & returned: the shop has agreed to a refund.

I also checked with some friends, and each one confirmed a buzzing noise with their respective plasma screens (different models, different brands). So I'm pretty convinced most plasmas buzz, at least to my ears. Consider yourself blessed if you don't hear anything.

The pixel noise, visible scanning lines and flicker I could take for granted, but not the buzzing noise.
post #6838 of 9972
I tried a web search on the subject, but still feel that I do not have a clear understanding of the topic...what is "dithering"?
post #6839 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

There haven't been too many calibrations shared. Here is my ISF calibration that was done today. Note, I did the 100 hr slide process and used DNice's settings and instructions initially. The calibration looks much better.
We were able to max out contrast on my set, but not all sets will be able to. Lower the contrast if needed.
65ST50_2D.pdf 379k .pdf file
65ST50 Settings
Custom mode 2D
Color temp Normal
Gamma 2.4
Panel bright Mid
Brightness 53
Contrast 100
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Color Space Normal
Rhi 17
Ghi 7
Bhi -13
Rlow 7
Glow 1
Blow -3
Custom mode 3D
Color temp Warm 1
Gamma 2.4
Panel bright Mid
Brightness 53
Contrast 100
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Color space Normal
Rhi 1
Ghi -4
Bhi -4
Rlow 11
Glow -3
Blow -5


Bhazard: Thank you for sharing your settings.
It looks really good on my 55ST50, especial I do have dimly living room. Other setting that use color temp warm2 it just too dark for me.
post #6840 of 9972
I have a 65st50 in a dark basement theater room. I followed Dnice's procedures and settings, so the set is on Warm2 and is plenty bright for the dark room it is in. If i set it to Warm1 or Normal, will that make the panel even brighter? and if i set the 3D settings, will the set remember those? or do i need to adjust all of the settings everytime i want to watch a 3D movie? thanks.
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