Originally Posted by SKYMTL
So after reading through this thread, I want to clear a few things up that I am SURE others are asking themselves right now. So here are the questions that popped into my head throughout reading this discussion.
This is coming from someone who is looking into buying another one of these and I want to do it "right" this time.
1) While D-Nice's info @ HD Junkies provides slides to "prep" the set for his calibrations, it has been mentioned several times that they are NOT to be used for initial aging / break in. So what is recommended for the initial 100 or so hours of aging? I'd love to hear some input on this.
2) Is there a way to break in the set that can help avoid image retention?
3) I notice that sometimes when the TV displays large sections of white picture (for example: in a hockey game or commercial) the screen seems to automatically dim. This is actually picked up as a quick "flicker" and is extremely noticeable when a camera angle changes from the crowd to the ice in a hockey game. I have CATS and the ECO option turned off but it still happens. Does anyone have an idea about what is causing this? It looks like there is an Auto Brightness setting enabled but I can't find it.
4) For the life of me, I can't figure why 3:2 Pulldown is always greyed out. I'm feeding it a 1080i source from my PVR (Bell ExpressVu) so the option should be there in the Custom menu but I can't turn it "ON". Any idea why?
1) Running the slides during the first hours of use still has some benefit, as it ages all of the phosphors evenly during the time the phosphors change the most. However, IMHO, it provides little to no benefit that will actually be noticeable and is a waste of time. My recommendation is to just watch full-screen content / avoid black bars as much as possible during the first 100-150hrs. I've seen pro calibrations say the same.
(edit: the above is assuming that you will not be using D-Nice's reference settings. If you are, I would
recommend running the slides as per his instructions.)
2) No. How resistant a particular panel is to IR varies from panel-to-panel. And in my experience, certain models are more or less susceptible to IR. There is nothing you can do to make a panel less susceptible (other than keeping the Contrast down). Some have found that IR is more noticeable during the first xx amount of hours, but it should go away fairly quickly. If it doesn't, I'd consider the panel to be faulty.
3) All plasmas have an Auto Brightness Limiter (ABL) which reduces the load as the picture level increases. Some people have found that the brightness fluctuates during hockey games because of the white ice. I haven't followed this closely, but AFAIK, there hasn't been any solutions for this issue. Because of the lockout, I haven't been watching any hockey (
) so I haven't actually checked myself.
There may be ways to reduce the effect, by maybe reducing the Contrast, increasing the Brightness or lowering the gamma. However, none of these are ideal solutions because they should all be set to a specific level.
4) Strange... it should be un-greyed on an interlaced source. Sorry, can't help you there.Edited by rahzel - 11/16/12 at 4:04pm