or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 237

post #7081 of 9972
DNice is a professional calibrator, so i find it hard to argue with his quote. slides will not prevent IR or burnin. all they do is age the panel so it is prepared for calibration. there are no slides that will prevent IR or burnin.
post #7082 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

DNice is a professional calibrator, so i find it hard to argue with his quote. slides will not prevent IR or burnin. all they do is age the panel so it is prepared for calibration. there are no slides that will prevent IR or burnin.

OK, makes sense, but since it does seem that using full-frame material for an extended period before watching letterboxed or logo-ridden material is a good idea, would the slides be useful for that purpose, even though they weren't intended that way? Or am I better off forgetting the slides and just throwing on any old full-frame video?
post #7083 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by outlanderbz View Post

I was curious what some of you that have had this TV for a awhile do as far as XBOX 360 picture settings - for gaming? I have the 50" in the living room and the 60" in the basement. I just finished running the D Nice slides and dialed in his settings on both. Picture looks amazing! I watched parts of The Dark Knight and was amazed. I have the Disney WOW disk on the way also but really do not think I need to change anything, we will see.
Anyways, I have my Comcast HD Box, PS3 (for bluray), and AppleTV going into HDMI 1 from my receiver with D Nice's settings. I always kept my XBOX 360 on a separate input so I could use different picture settings on my old Samsung LCD. Do most of you just copy your same settings over to the XBOX 360 input or do you use the "GAME" mode and dial back some of the contrast and color as it looks like it is torch mode? I usually do not mind a little extra pop and color on the video games because they are after all video games but was curious what others do, just to try different things.
thanks in advance for any feedback. loving this TV.

just an update - I did a good deal of messing around with settings last night and reading up on GAME mode in general. I have been using GAME mode but I dialed back the contrast to 76, upped brightness to 56 and turned down color to 45. I also decreased the sharpness to 50 because it seemed like I was getting artifacts. I have sharpness set to 0 in other modes but for XBOX 360 gaming it is nice to have that sharp text especially on the XBOX Dashboard. I also turned off any extra settings I could along with using Warm 2 as my color setting. Seems to give a good balance between "real" picture and added pop for gaming. I just loaded up The Walking Dead Episode 5 today and needed to turn up the in game brightness a notch but I assume this was because it was originally lowered on my old sammy LCD.

Anyone else have any input on the settings they are using for gaming?
post #7084 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenA01 View Post

OK, makes sense, but since it does seem that using full-frame material for an extended period before watching letterboxed or logo-ridden material is a good idea, would the slides be useful for that purpose, even though they weren't intended that way? Or am I better off forgetting the slides and just throwing on any old full-frame video?

imo, even though they were not intended that way, my logic says slides are more likely to age the panal evenly and quicker. since IR and burn in are more prone to happen earlier in the set's life, i used the slides to ensure even aging over the first 100 hours. some do not prefer to use them, i did and with good results.
post #7085 of 9972
Anyone else find the 3d image too dim? I'm using cnet's settings and switching to 3d dims the picture considerably. I find that I need to increase the Contrast from 82 to 100 and change panel brightness from Mid to High and it still is on the dim side. And I find the 2d brightness with cnet's settings perfect. I am using Samsung-SSG-4100GB 3d glasses so maybe this has something to do with it? Previously to owning ST50, I has a Samsung ES6500 LED TV and the 3d on it was much brighter. Could my ST50's 3d be defective even though everything else is fine?
post #7086 of 9972
Planning to get this set (55" st50) today if BB will price match Amazon. I will need to lay it down in my Xterra to get it home and have heard MANY different opinions on this one. So I will ask you guys:

Can I lay this TV down on it's back in its original package to transport from BB-Home??? rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

It is a 7 mile trip all on paved roads and no speed bumps.

If I get a resounding NO then I will have to order it from Amazon...
post #7087 of 9972
I brought mine home flat in my ford escape for about five miles. Everything seems ok. I guess a big flat panel is most vulnerable when flat but in its original packing it should be ok.
post #7088 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

imo, even though they were not intended that way, my logic says slides are more likely to age the panal evenly and quicker. since IR and burn in are more prone to happen earlier in the set's life, i used the slides to ensure even aging over the first 100 hours. some do not prefer to use them, i did and with good results.

Thanks very much! I think I may do the same. smile.gif
post #7089 of 9972
A 60ST50 is on it's way to me. I'm looking for a consensus on the best way to get from point A to optimally calibrated with this unit. I do calibrations as part of my job as an electronics integrator, but have yet to get any experience with an ST50 model.

Ideally, I'd like a Day, Night and B&W calibration for both 2D and 3D across all inputs. However, from what I've been reading I can only realistically get 2 calibrations. Are those the same across all HDMI inputs? So Cinema on HDMI 1 is the same as Cinema on HDMI 2? I am presuming at the very least I can do a seperate cal for Component inputs?

If it's true I only get 2 cal's, and that Custom is the one that gets brighter and has more fine tune control, then I would use this for my 2D Night cal, being my most used. Cinema I would have to use for either a Day cal, or a 3D cal. I also read that I need to get into the Service menu to fully calibrate the Cinema mode? Can someone either post or PM me the procedure to get into the Service menu in order to do so?

Is the consensus 100 hours before calibrating? I'm a little confused about the posts I read which state to use slides to prepare for a cal, but that they are not recommended for preventing IR. What is the consensus on how to treat my set from the day I open the box to the moment I do the cal?

Thanks.
post #7090 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by outlanderbz View Post

I just loaded up The Walking Dead Episode 5 today and needed to turn up the in game brightness a notch but I assume this was because it was originally lowered on my old sammy LCD.

I had to turn the brightness up too. Operation Raccon City is virtually unplayable on this set since it's so dark. I guess high black levels aren't always a good thing.
post #7091 of 9972
Any preference among owners between CNET's settings and DNice's?
post #7092 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenA01 View Post

Any preference among owners between CNET's settings and DNice's?

It seems as if more who have posted said that they have used D-Nice's settings vs. CNet.
post #7093 of 9972
I just signed up for AVS after lurking for several weeks and reading tons of reviews on many TVs that are in my size/budget range.

I've nearly completed my search and am very close to pulling the trigger on a 55ST50; however, a few things keep me from doing so. I've never owned a plasma TV before and I must admit that I'm a bit OCD and would have some definite hair-pulling stress if any IR happened -- clearly some of the horror stories from many years past still worry me. My TV usage will be 50% bluray, 25% video games (First-person shooters), and 25% sports (football, basketball). My big fears here are IR of a video game's HUD or the scoreboard from a football game lingering on the screen. I have no issues with performing any break-in techniques to minimize this.

I have no concerns for power consumption, lighting, etc. Pretty much the only thing holding me back from an ST50 is IR. I imagine I'll be incredibly sensitive to it.

Of course I was considering LED alternatives such as the LG LM7600 or Sony HX850, but cannot decide quite yet.

Any words of wisdom to ease my fears? Thanks!
post #7094 of 9972
I hear you on the OCD, but how's your OCD going to cope with motion blurring when you're watching football on an LCD, or gaming lag on an LCD? Get the plasma. I went through what you're going through in 2008 when I bought my first plasma, and am now just lurking to pass the time while I wait for my 60GT50.

All I do with my plasma is watch sports, some movies, and Xbox. You're fine.

IR goes away. I thought I "burned in" the ammunition count from Ghost Recon, but seriously, it goes away eventually. If it's not one thing, it'll be another dude, so go with what has the least flaws, best picture: plasma. It's a no brainer.

For what it's worth, I work for a custom installer who designs and installs whole house systems. All these people are millionaires, whose mantra is "give me the best, money is not an issue" - guess what we install for them? Plasma. It's the way to go.
post #7095 of 9972
I've been comparing cnet's (left) settings to that of d-nice's (right) and here are the differences, other values remained the same:

Contrast: +82..............................Contrast: 76
Brightness: +60...........................Brightness: 56
Color: +46...................................Color: 43
W/B high R: +10..........................W/B High R: -7
W/B high B: +3............................W/B High B: -2
W/B low R: +4.............................W/B Low R: +12

The w/b high/low R values are quite different, though.

Anyone care to post their settings? I have a feeling they should be in the same ballpark.

wink.gif

btw, i believe these are both 55st50 settings.
post #7096 of 9972
Hi there fellow AVS members.First time 3D blu-ray TV & 3D blu-ray player owner here.I have a few question regarding setting up this TV with a 3D blu-ray player.

I've had the TV for a little over a month now.

First off I have the Panasonic 55" ST50 plasma.I went through the D-Nice 100 hour panel prep with his slides.I'm using the settings he provided and have been very satisfied using the TV for watching blu-ray movies, HD and normal content on this TV.

I just bought the Sony BDP-S790 3D blu-ray player to go with this TV.I also have the matching Panasonic VIERA TY-ER3D4MU Active Shutter 3D Eyewear.

What settings do you guys recommend for both the TV and this blu-ray player when watching 3D blu-rays? I have quite a view 3D blu-ray movies I've been excited & wanting to see in 3D.

On the Sony BDP-S790 I have downloaded & updated to the latest firmware.In the players "Screen Settings" for YCBR/RGB (HDMI) it's by default set to auto and I have the options of selecting YCBCR (4:2:2) or YCBCR (4:4:4) or RGB.Which would be the best setting here?

Also in the same menu for "HDMI Deep Color Output" it is by default set to auto and I have the option to select 16 bit, 12 bit, 10 bit, off.Which would be the best setting to choose for this setting?

Also for the SBM feature should this be set to on or off?
Edited by Filipinoyakuza - 11/21/12 at 6:12pm
post #7097 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorRican View Post

Planning to get this set (55" st50) today if BB will price match Amazon. I will need to lay it down in my Xterra to get it home and have heard MANY different opinions on this one. So I will ask you guys:
Can I lay this TV down on it's back in its original package to transport from BB-Home??? rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif
It is a 7 mile trip all on paved roads and no speed bumps.
If I get a resounding NO then I will have to order it from Amazon...
Absolutely.
post #7098 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenA01 View Post

Any preference among owners between CNET's settings and DNice's?
DNice. If it is size 55 or bigger look at rahzels settings.
post #7099 of 9972
FWIW, I ran color slides and calibrated with a DVE disc 4 years ago on a Panasonic 42PZ80U and was sold. My wife thought I was nuts to spend the time on this calibration. Got 50ST50 a couple weeks ago and she totally expected me to do the same with this new one because of how well the first set looked. Ran the slides for 4 days, and set it to D-Nice's specs. Absolutely wonderful picture. For kicks I plan on running my Spears and Munsil disc just to see what will change.
post #7100 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebadooo View Post

I hear you on the OCD, but how's your OCD going to cope with motion blurring when you're watching football on an LCD, or gaming lag on an LCD? Get the plasma. I went through what you're going through in 2008 when I bought my first plasma, and am now just lurking to pass the time while I wait for my 60GT50.
All I do with my plasma is watch sports, some movies, and Xbox. You're fine.
IR goes away. I thought I "burned in" the ammunition count from Ghost Recon, but seriously, it goes away eventually. If it's not one thing, it'll be another dude, so go with what has the least flaws, best picture: plasma. It's a no brainer.
For what it's worth, I work for a custom installer who designs and installs whole house systems. All these people are millionaires, whose mantra is "give me the best, money is not an issue" - guess what we install for them? Plasma. It's the way to go.


Very true points.The big flaws I'm reading about for the LG LM7600 is flashlighting which would bug me as well.

I'm actually pretty pleased with the performance of my old-ish 40" Sony EX521 LED --- not necessarily best PQ but I have no flashlighting issues or IR issues... but I just want to go bigger!
post #7101 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevensly View Post

I've been comparing cnet's (left) settings to that of d-nice's (right) and here are the differences, other values remained the same:
Contrast: +82..............................Contrast: 76
Brightness: +60...........................Brightness: 56
Color: +46...................................Color: 43
W/B high R: +10..........................W/B High R: -7
W/B high B: +3............................W/B High B: -2
W/B low R: +4.............................W/B Low R: +12
The w/b high/low R values are quite different, though.
Anyone care to post their settings? I have a feeling they should be in the same ballpark.
wink.gif
btw, i believe these are both 55st50 settings.
Here are my settings after calibrating my 65ST50's grayscale using HCFR and my i1D3 colorimeter:
Picture mode: Custom
Contrast: 83
Brightness: 56
Color: 50
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color temp: Warm2
Color space: Normal
W/B high R: +2
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +7
W/B low R: +6
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: 0
Black extension: 0
Gamma adjustment: 2.2
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Here are the resulting calibration graphs -- grayscale tracking is really, really good (and it was actually very good before calibration just using Warm2 and default settings). All of my DeltaE readings are less than 7 except at IRE 0 which is meaningless since the colorimeter's measurement was garbage at that level:







My TV is less than a week old so I'll redo the calibration in a month or so once I get some more hours on it. Also, I didn't mess with the "Color" or "Tint" settings (i.e. I simply left then at their defaults) so maybe my post-calibration settings would've been a little different if I'd ran the standard Avia-style calibration disc.
Edited by Schwa - 11/21/12 at 10:48pm
post #7102 of 9972
just got my 55st50 yesterday. buzzing is an issue. hope it goes away. only used it for about an hr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

DNice. If it is size 55 or bigger look at rahzels settings.

what's rahzels settings?
post #7103 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBrad View Post

You'll need run the white screen for 100+ hrs continuously on high contrast to get rid of persistent IR, read other users experiences: posts 3865, 3871, 3876.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/949107/master-burn-in-ir-break-in-thread-part-ii-all-posts-here-only/3840

I know that trick helps pretty well but is it really normal that for instance after every Formula 1 race that lasts only couple of hours I need to run white screen for 100 hours to get rid of F1 logo?
I never had such issues with my previous plasma.
Quote:
Other repair option is to replace the whole plasma pixel panel or whole tv.

My local service engineer insist they need to dismantle the whole unit and take some measurements to be able to judge if it is even faulty by their criteria. It sound to me like they think there could be some kind of a voltage adjustment to fix this.
post #7104 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

I know that trick helps pretty well but is it really normal that for instance after every Formula 1 race that lasts only couple of hours I need to run white screen for 100 hours to get rid of F1 logo?
I never had such issues with my previous plasma.
My local service engineer insist they need to dismantle the whole unit and take some measurements to be able to judge if it is even faulty by their criteria. It sound to me like they think there could be some kind of a voltage adjustment to fix this.

Then possibly the contrast is set way to high or some voltage adj. inside the tv is wrong.
Means tv needs service repair to be sure what wrong with it.
post #7105 of 9972
Can some one please give me a link for a good low profile bracket for the 55 in model that's low profile but still gives enough room behind the set. Thanks in advance.
post #7106 of 9972
Ugh! Going on 4 weeks since my ST55 crapped out. Service guy says he's waiting for a backordered A-Board. Man, I miss my TV so much. Anyone have any knowledge of how long a backordered part takes to arrive? Sucks to have a new TV sitting there broken.
post #7107 of 9972
how do i check hours on this set?
post #7108 of 9972
just got the st50 how do i trun off the pixel orbiter
post #7109 of 9972
Getting ready to pull the trigger on the 55ST50 during Black Friday/Cyber Monday as I don't really think the price will drop much more during Xmas. I'm trying to decide who to purchase from. I'm looking at Amazon, BB, Cleveland Plasma, Paul's TV. Price and ability and ease of returning for issues such as buzzing, dead pixels, etc are huge factors. I'd appreciate advice and purchase experiences.

*Does Amazon charge for return, say if the set buzzes? If so, how much?
post #7110 of 9972
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomess023 View Post

how do i check hours on this set?

Just google "Panasonic checking the hours used". It's posted in dozens of places here on AVS so it should be easy to find in a search.


Quote:
jt got the st50 how do i trun off the pixel orbiter
There's a setting for that in the menu wink.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk]