Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 239

In all likelihood, Yes.

Our 60ST50 had some minor screen uniformity issues when new - including an area of Yellowish discoloration, visible only on certain gray slides - but these essentially dissipated well before our "New Panel Aging Routine" was completed. (The yellow tinted area has completely vanished.)

Based upon experience with several 2011 panels, + this 2012 one, it makes sense to run a panel fairly aggressively before the Return Period expires.

I've read otherwise, but from my experience, yes. My brother has an older 360 without an HDMI port, and he is able to select 1080P in the video settings. Also, our Samsung DLP states that the resolution of the component connection is 1080P.

Thought that Component Video only passed 1080i or 720p.

The ST50, of course, will display either of these in the panel's native 1080p resolution.

Are you sure? The reason I ask is because my older panny plasma did not display anything over 480p on component.

How long am i supposed to use d nice setting acter panel prep like
To the 250 hour mark? Then calibrate it or use calibrated settings. The reds are geting redder the longer i run the slides

What were you trying to watch? There may be issues playing HDCP protected content from certain devices, so a Bluray player might not be able to play 1080P over component, but I've never had issues running games on a 360 at 1080P using component cables.

D-Nice's suggestion is to use the slides for 100 hours.
(via his post in the ************** "2012 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread")

EDIT: Tricky tricky... The censored part of that post is HighDefJunkie𝐬

I'm going to purchase the 55ST50 tomorrow from either Amazon or Paul's TV. I was planning on Amazon, but Paul's doesn't charge sales tax in my state so that's a plus for them. Does Paul's offer the same no hassle returns as Amazon? The ability to return for something like buzzing, dead pixels, etc is huge. For those who have returned sets to either Amazon or Paul's do you pay the return shipping? Appreciate as much feedback by tomorrow.

ooh okay so i am supposed to run the slides and then d nice settings for 100 hours more so in total 200 hours 100 slides and then 100 d nice settings watching tv and all right?

Watch TV 100-200 hours and calibrate it by yourself or hire professional to do that.
Set should be recalibrated maby once/year.
Doing it by yoursef is cheaper than pay 200-300$ every year.
i1 Display Pro meter is something like 200-250$ and of course you have to learn what to do
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 is good place to start.

If you think you can get calibrated set with D-Nice settings then at first right out of the box drive 100 hours those slides (with D-Nice settings for slides) then insert D-Nice settings for getting "calibrated set". Use those settings as long you have TV
Edited by Make73 - 11/24/12 at 3:42am

Just an fyi most pro calibrators don't charge full price for a touch-up. My calibrator charges 1/3 of his calibration price.

Oak a.
With DIY calibration you can get good results even with cheap i1 Display Pro meter but of course professionals have pro konowledge /training/equipments.
So if you want best picture just hire professional calibrator to do that.
Point was that by copying settings from set to other is not calibration and result is not calibrated set.

Exact same experience for my 60ST50 right out of the box. Gaming, sports, no burn in and no buzzing. Marvellous tv.

OK so I called Paul's TV to ask about their return/exchange policy and was told that if I get a set that has buzzing, dead pixels, visible vertical band, etc that I would have to contact Panasonic and open up a case number to determine if the set is defective before I could return it to Paul's. No way I'm dealing with that. I got burned with an older Panasonic plasma and the infamous "purple snakes". Looks like I'm ordering from Amazon.

This picture is so good it makes me want to slap my momma

Well I tried searching this gigantic thread about calibration adjustments for brighter rooms but had no luck.

If I do d-nices break in procedure and use those settings can I just up the panel brightness if needed or is that going to throw everything out of whack?

Is that C.A.T.S. setting any good or no? It sure would be nice to have a calibration that worked well with C.A.T.S. so that I wouldn't have to worry about the ambient light levels.

I downloaded D-Nice's panel prep slides and transferred them to USB. Do I just plug the USB stick into the TV and it starts or do I have to set it up somehow? Is there a way to test the slides on my laptop?

I really need some help from the current ST50 owners.

I've had to different ST50's in my house, and both of them has had what I would consider enourmeous amounts of buzzing. I'm wondering if I've been unlucky twice or if plasma just really isn't for me and the technology is still not buzz-free enough to work in my house.
When I had the ST50's I could not load up the Xbox 360 dashboard and not have very loud buzzing coming from the TV. It was loud enough that I could hear it very clearly from 4 meters away, and even watching news broadcasts with normal studio light resulted in loud enough buzzing that the TV at normal volume could not drown it out.

Is that normal behaviour for a ST50, or was I just unlucky twice in a row?

Unlucky. With no other sound I can hear the Xbox, but never the TV. I can't hear the TV unless it's completely quiet in the house and I put my head behind the TV.

Vinterbird, Wolowizard what are the manufacture dates of your respective TVs?

I would definitely exchange it, if you can hear it over normal sound. I've had buzzing on my st50 (October 2012 manufacturing date) as well but it's not so loud. I can hear it at my normal viewing distance of 11 feet, when the sound is mute or very low and there is a bright scene. It's annoying. If I crank the volume above a quiet volume I normally use it's not noticeable, but it still annoys me that it's there even though during normal usage I don't really notice it. I am on the fence right now about exchanging knowing that I may get a worse set and also it's a big pain exchanging TVs. But in your case, it sounds like it's really bothersome so I'll exchange it, if you can.

And just to give you a broader picture here, I've done tons of research about buzzing and it seems that the amount of buzzing varies a lot from set to set but also some people are more sensitive than others to it. Some owners claim they only hear a very slight buzzing if they put their head behind the set. Others have gotten nothing but buzzers even after an exchange. And some had a buzzer, exchanged it and got a quiet set. Also, some reported that some members of the household can hear buzzing but others cannot on the same TV. A very annoying issue to deal with on an otherwise fantastic TV.

No idea. The first set was in stock when I ordered it, and the second one I got had a weeks wait because they had to get new shipments from Panasonic/ their supplier. So fairly new I would guess?

I get 1080p through my older white Xbox 360 using the component/composite cable that came with it.

So I just went into the service menu to check total hours used and to my surprise I had about 20 hours more (about 30% more) and 10 turns on more than I thought I did. Only had the TV for 9 days so was keeping a mental track of hours used. So that had me thinking that maybe, just maybe I didn't get a new TV. That seems unlikely as it came from a very reputable retailer but the extra hours used together with the following has me slightly questioning whether the TV is new: the protective wrap on the TV was just sort of wrapped around it without it being sealed with tape (every other new TV I've bought had the wrap taped). The remote was in a bag that was open, not sealed. How did others' TVs come? Were the remotes sealed in their plastic bag and TVs wrap sealed? Everything else indicates new TV: protective wrap around the bezel, initial setup, TV looks new.

Trust me, me too. Ive never owned a tv that did not have flashlighting

Might want to recheck that component is limited to 1080i and composite 480i and if were possible most of us would not have upgraded to HDMI.

Source? Like I said above, my TV and 360 both show the resolution as 1080P when connected by component cables.

Hmm: Entirely possible, according to Crutchfield:
Recall reading something about DRM rules/regs limiting component to less-than-1080p, but apparently that is a "Decision" as opposed to a Limitation of the technology! Could well be that the Newer your system components are, the Less Likely it is that they will handle 1080p via Component Video...

I finally got my hands on a 50st50 and man, the picture out of the box is amazing! I didn't bother running slides, using an ancient 32" LCD for a month wasn't cutting it for me since my th-42pz85u failed, so I've applied Cnet's settings right away. I also tried D-nice's settings, but they were too dark.
About the buzzing, there is a buzzing sound, but you have to put your head behind the tv just to hear it, standing in front or watching from the couch it is not noticeable.
Overall, i love the picture!!!

Um, no. The Xbox 360 is well-documented to pass 1080p over component as long as the TV can handle it. Mine does it with no problem.