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Reason being that the larger panels (60/65) are slightly different than the smaller panels (50/55).If you're not using D-Nice's settings, don't bother with the slides.
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Panel-to-panel variations often cause differences in settings; depending on the model, it can vary a little or a lot. Not only that, but there are many ways to get to D65. Plus meters vary in accuracy (specifically colorimeters). For example, the i1D3 (what I have) doesn't read plasmas very well without a correction table. The retail version of the i1D3 comes with spectral samples for certain display types, but it does not include plasma displays. Unit to unit variations on the i1D3 is very good, so I used a generic plasma correction table from another i1D3 and used it for my calibration. I found that it made a big difference (for the better) as it removed a lot of red tint in the grayscale.Originally Posted by Schwa 
Word to the wise -- while CNet's and/or D-Nice's settings are a good starting point, each panel is different from the next. You really need to calibrate your individual set to get an accurate picture rather than plugging-and-playing with generic settings. I calibrated my set with a colorimeter and HCFR software and got a very good grayscale calibration, but my settings are different than both D-Nice's and CNet's. I know my personal settings are good for my TV since I measured them -- but had I used D-Nice's settings or CNet's settings, my picture wouldn't be as measurably accurate as it is.

Word to the wise -- while CNet's and/or D-Nice's settings are a good starting point, each panel is different from the next. You really need to calibrate your individual set to get an accurate picture rather than plugging-and-playing with generic settings. I calibrated my set with a colorimeter and HCFR software and got a very good grayscale calibration, but my settings are different than both D-Nice's and CNet's. I know my personal settings are good for my TV since I measured them -- but had I used D-Nice's settings or CNet's settings, my picture wouldn't be as measurably accurate as it is.
As far as accuracy, it goes (from worst to best):
-Colorimeter no correction
-Colorimeter using a spectral sample
-Colorimeter using a generic correction table
-Colorimeter profiled against an accurate spectro on your display
-Spectro
The latter two are essentially the same as far as accuracy. Spectros use different measuring methods than colorimeters, and the only way to ensure 100% accuracy of a colorimeter, is to profile it against an accurate spectro. Pros usually use spectros, or they use spectros as well as a colorimeter because colorimeters are faster at measuring in darker stimulus percentages.
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If you're calibrating yourself, why wait? Calibrate it now, then calibrate it later. If you're going to get your set professionally calibrated, it's best to wait at least 150hrs or more to be safe.Edited by rahzel - 11/26/12 at 4:56pm





























