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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 267

post #7981 of 9509
12/24/12 at 9:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

I greatly dimmed my red LED with two layers of Light Dims:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1403635/official-panasonic-gt50-series-discussion-thread-no-street-price-talk/4530#post_22664779
Thanks for that, never heard of them. Have so many leds that bug me at night in my room these would be great. Was about to get a roll of electric tape to cover a bunch of them up but these would be better if they really leave no residue.
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post #7982 of 9509
12/24/12 at 9:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cynetinc View Post

Hey everybody, happy holidays to all! I have a question. For those who use cable 1080i as their primary source, do I need to worry about choppy motion on the newly ordered P55ST50? The reason I'm asking is I have returned a week old P50U50 because it was unwatchable on some cable material (very choppy on camera panning, FIOS) and ordered this model. We had Sammy PN50C590 which died after 2.5 years of short but memorable service and I don't think I had this problem before. Now I'm basically worrying myself to death by thinking what if this model does the same thing, can anybody shed some light on it pleeeease? I would hate to go back to Sammy. .smile.gif
I set mine to output 720p and it has been fine, also have fios Dvr. On 1080i with 3:2 pull down set on the picture was not as sharp, especially the Dvr menus and guides as it is on 720p.
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post #7983 of 9509
12/24/12 at 10:22pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonhern View Post

Thanks for that, never heard of them. Have so many leds that bug me at night in my room these would be great. Was about to get a roll of electric tape to cover a bunch of them up but these would be better if they really leave no residue.

They're "static cling" and don't have adhesive and don't leave any residue. I just put one over my piercingly bright and annoying bright DSC (traction control) warning light on my 5-series instrument cluster (i always disable DSC when i first start my car and hate that light) and it wasn't quite big enough, so i peeled it off to put a larger one and there was no residue of any kind on the big clear plastic lens covering the cluster.

This picture looks like mine before applying the Light Dim (it's not actually a cupholder indicator LOL), with the Light Dim applied it's now a bit dimmer than the gauges:

attachment.php?attachmentid=52298&stc=1
Edited by RandyWalters - 12/24/12 at 10:29pm
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post #7984 of 9509
12/25/12 at 1:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomess023 View Post

Wow those setting are horrible. Try the d nice or cney settings.. This tv is amazing for gaming im coming from two xbr leds from 2008 and 2010. This set kills them both . Low input lag, bright consisten pq, amazing motion handling


d-nice settings are for north american models.. and i belive that those settings are for 50'' model. mine is 42''. im using settings from another respectable uk site.


42'' and 50''. 60'' and 65'' have different settings.
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post #7985 of 9509
12/25/12 at 6:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by suntu ieu View Post

d-nice settings are for north american models.. and i belive that those settings are for 50'' model. mine is 42''. im using settings from another respectable uk site.
42'' and 50''. 60'' and 65'' have different settings.
You must have copied something wrong brightness and contrast that low will make a really dark and poor image. Try the north American settings as a starting point and adjust to your likeing.
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post #7986 of 9509
12/25/12 at 8:55am
Is there a specific calibration thread or settings/phosphor aging that is like a consensus favorite with everybody?

I'd found the D-Nice thread on **************, http://www.**************.com/showthread.php?t=12986#.UNnQ0XdlyAc
but don't know this guy or his work from Adam.
I'm sure he and his work is competent, however, is it THE DEFINING ST50 Calibration process?

I know it IS highly subjective AND if I expect perfection, I should have professionally calibrated or buy a hardware calibrator.. Humor me!

Has anyone used D-nice's prep and calibration settings?
Mostly, has anyone tried several and find either D-Nice's OR ANOTHER's to be way better, in general?
Please advise...

By the way, I will be using this in an overly bright room during the day...

Also, after initial phosphor aging, what else is generally required to prevent image retention and maximize plasma's health and lifespan?
I feel compelled toward the videophile state of mind, but am currently ignorant to the intricacies as well as pressed for research time... Aren't we all though, huh?
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post #7987 of 9509
12/25/12 at 9:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

Is there a specific calibration thread or settings/phosphor aging that is like a consensus favorite with everybody?
I'd found the D-Nice thread on **************, http://www.**************.com/showthread.php?t=12986#.UNnQ0XdlyAc
but don't know this guy or his work from Adam.
I'm sure he and his work is competent, however, is it THE DEFINING ST50 Calibration process?
I know it IS highly subjective AND if I expect perfection, I should have professionally calibrated or buy a hardware calibrator.. Humor me!
Has anyone used D-nice's prep and calibration settings?
Mostly, has anyone tried several and find either D-Nice's OR ANOTHER's to be way better, in general?
Please advise...
By the way, I will be using this in an overly bright room during the day...
Also, after initial phosphor aging, what else is generally required to prevent image retention and maximize plasma's health and lifespan?
I feel compelled toward the videophile state of mind, but am currently ignorant to the intricacies as well as pressed for research time... Aren't we all though, huh?
As far as I'm concerned, you can consider what D-NICE says to be gospel. Short of hiring a professional calibrator, following his break-in procedure is the best way to produce an accurate image. I personally skipped the break-in procedure this time and went straight for his settings in post #3. Given that these settings are achieved through mathematical measurements, I don't see the point of bothering with anyone else's settings.

So yes, if you're not going to hire a calibrator, then just do what D-Nice says and call it a day. The only area you may need to or should stray from D-Nice's settings is with gamma; because viewability is subjective to room light, and you're going to be in a bright room. So instead of 2.6, you'll likely need to use 2.4 or even 2.2 to see what's going on in the shadows.
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post #7988 of 9509
12/25/12 at 11:43am
Joined this site yesterday and just seen this thread. I bought a 50 st in August.
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post #7989 of 9509
12/25/12 at 12:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldengrey15 View Post

Is there a specific calibration thread or settings/phosphor aging that is like a consensus favorite with everybody?
I'd found the D-Nice thread on **************, http://www.**************.com/showthread.php?t=12986#.UNnQ0XdlyAc
but don't know this guy or his work from Adam.
I'm sure he and his work is competent, however, is it THE DEFINING ST50 Calibration process?
I know it IS highly subjective AND if I expect perfection, I should have professionally calibrated or buy a hardware calibrator.. Humor me!
Has anyone used D-nice's prep and calibration settings?
Mostly, has anyone tried several and find either D-Nice's OR ANOTHER's to be way better, in general?
Please advise...
By the way, I will be using this in an overly bright room during the day...
Also, after initial phosphor aging, what else is generally required to prevent image retention and maximize plasma's health and lifespan?
I feel compelled toward the videophile state of mind, but am currently ignorant to the intricacies as well as pressed for research time... Aren't we all though, huh?

I used dnices settings on my 60" and found I had a significant amount of black crush and I felt the colors were way off. Ended up using cnets settings with gamma at 2.4 instead of 2.6

as for precautions, I am careful to use fullscreen content at least 70% of the time
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post #7990 of 9509
12/25/12 at 12:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonhern View Post

You must have copied something wrong brightness and contrast that low will make a really dark and poor image. Try the north American settings as a starting point and adjust to your likeing.

i didnt copy anything wrong. 42'' tv's have maximum 10 brightness. its just like that. 50'' have more settings and adjustment options.


http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/panasonic-tx-p42st50b-p42st50-201203191731.htm?page=Calibration#3d
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post #7991 of 9509
12/25/12 at 12:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by suntu ieu View Post

@ HD Master


watching movies and tv is perfect.. but gaming is pain..



game

contrast 46

brightness 4

color 28

sharpness 6

gamma 2.2

everything else is off


is there any suggested settings on the net ?

Try these instead:
Quote:
2D Settings for Panasonic TX-P42ST50
hdtvtest.co.uk

Viewing Mode: True Cinema
Contrast: set to max then reduce by 14
Brightness: default
Colour: reduce by 2 from default
Sharpness: 0 or 1 click from the left
Vivid Colour: Off
CATS: Off
P-NR: Off

Advanced Settings
White Balance: 3 -2 4 0 -5 -4
Colour Mgmt: -9 -2 0 11 -6 3 0 0 5
Gamma: 2.4
24p Smooth Film: Off (for Blu-ray)
Intelligent Frame Creation: Off, Min if you have trouble with double images on 50hz
16:9 Overscan: Off
Pixel Orbiter: Auto
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post #7992 of 9509
12/25/12 at 2:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iain- View Post

I currently have a 50UT50 sitting in a nearby warehouse and scheduled for delivery on 4 Jan.
I'm currently having second thought of it and thinking I should have bought ST50 instead because of gamma controls and possible dislike of UT physical appearance v ST physical appearance. After all, this is something I will have to live with for sometime.
Opinions?
Get the ST if you can afford it.
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post #7993 of 9509
12/25/12 at 6:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Get the ST if you can afford it.
Done. biggrin.gif

Ordered 50ST50 late last night. It will despatch tomorrow to local installer warehouse and will be delivered and installed at time previously scheduled for UT50.
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post #7994 of 9509
12/26/12 at 6:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkleffelm View Post

I have been talking with a user from HDJ who has a PS3 and may not have the oil paint effect that I get with material at 720p. Does anyone else here have a PS3 and wouldn't mind helping me out a bit? I just would like to see how common this problem is and whether a not a replacement could possibly fix this issue.10.gif

i have a PS3, but still am uncertain what oil painting means. If you can explain it to me in non technical terms, i can check when i get home.
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post #7995 of 9509
12/26/12 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

He said he was calibrating the warm aspect in the service menu. I'm not sure I know how to get the defaults back in the service menu. I mean the skin tones and such look good, but I'm still not liking the contrast and sharpness being so high

Your light output will be much lower in cinema mode over custom mode. I'm assuming that's why he jacked contrast. Regardless, you will get optimal settings in Custom mode not Cinema.
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post #7996 of 9509
12/26/12 at 11:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

He said he was calibrating the warm aspect in the service menu. I'm not sure I know how to get the defaults back in the service menu. I mean the skin tones and such look good, but I'm still not liking the contrast and sharpness being so high
GS is generally bad, but not always. If you're happy with the picture, don't bother setting it back to default.

Changing the contrast will affect other aspects of the picture, depending on how much you change it from where BB set it to. As for Sharpness, 50 is too high IMO... I would bring it back down to 0-20. Unlike Contrast, Sharpness won't really affect anything else.

Are you concerned about image retention/burn in, or is it actually too bright? Contrast is just a number... actual brightness varies between modes. As mpalmieri1203 said, Cinema mode isn't capable of getting as bright as say, Custom mode. 90 in Cinema mode is probably more comparable to ~80 in Custom mode as far as brightness.
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post #7997 of 9509
12/26/12 at 1:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

GS is generally bad, but not always. If you're happy with the picture, don't bother setting it back to default.
Changing the contrast will affect other aspects of the picture, depending on how much you change it from where BB set it to. As for Sharpness, 50 is too high IMO... I would bring it back down to 0-20. Unlike Contrast, Sharpness won't really affect anything else.
Are you concerned about image retention/burn in, or is it actually too bright? Contrast is just a number... actual brightness varies between modes. As mpalmieri1203 said, Cinema mode isn't capable of getting as bright as say, Custom mode. 90 in Cinema mode is probably more comparable to ~80 in Custom mode as far as brightness.

From his explanation of what he did. He switched from custom to cinema and said he always does the calibration in cinema mode. He then went into the service menu and put the sensor on the tv screen and started messing with things. After fooling with it i noticed the high contrast and sharpness. I asked him about what he did and he said he adjusted the warm color. So i'm guessing the color and the greyscale. I think the gamma is set to 2.2 and it's set at warm 2 in cinema. I switched it back to Custom using the same setting as he had in cinema except i moved the contrast and sharpness down. I think the picture looks pretty good, but me moving it to custom after he calibrated the warm aspect in cinema pointless?
The warm aspect that he adjusted should stay the same even if i move it over to custom but use everything that he did except the contrast and sharpness, right?
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post #7998 of 9509
12/26/12 at 1:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

i have a PS3, but still am uncertain what oil painting means. If you can explain it to me in non technical terms, i can check when i get home.
If you're familiar with Adobe Photoshop, it looks like the Median filter has been applied.
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post #7999 of 9509
12/26/12 at 2:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkleffelm View Post

I have been talking with a user from HDJ who has a PS3 and may not have the oil paint effect that I get with material at 720p. Does anyone else here have a PS3 and wouldn't mind helping me out a bit? I just would like to see how common this problem is and whether a not a replacement could possibly fix this issue.10.gif
i don't get it at all
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post #8000 of 9509
12/26/12 at 2:53pm
Does anyone's know how to hook up a turtle beach x12 headset to this? The headset uses USB out and red and white RCA cables. Can you hook this up without using Xbox component because I no longer have those. Does the TV have a headphone jack or what setting on the TV change output audio to headphones.
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post #8001 of 9509
12/26/12 at 4:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sethmp View Post

From his explanation of what he did. He switched from custom to cinema and said he always does the calibration in cinema mode. He then went into the service menu and put the sensor on the tv screen and started messing with things. After fooling with it i noticed the high contrast and sharpness. I asked him about what he did and he said he adjusted the warm color. So i'm guessing the color and the greyscale. I think the gamma is set to 2.2 and it's set at warm 2 in cinema. I switched it back to Custom using the same setting as he had in cinema except i moved the contrast and sharpness down. I think the picture looks pretty good, but me moving it to custom after he calibrated the warm aspect in cinema pointless?
The warm aspect that he adjusted should stay the same even if i move it over to custom but use everything that he did except the contrast and sharpness, right?
I don't have any experience calibrating panasonic displays in the service menu. But AFAIK, calibrating warm for cinema mode will not affect Custom mode's warm color temperature. IIRC, if you had a G series panasonic, calibrating the Warm color temperature for Cinema mode will calibrate warm for cinema and THX mode (or something along those lines) but it will not affect Custom mode. So in other words, I think that BB's calibration for Cinema mode/Warm is irrelevant from Custom mode.

Ultimately they're your eyes. If Cinema mode looks good, but too bright... you should be ok lowering the contrast a few notches. If you prefer Custom mode, then just use Custom mode.
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post #8002 of 9509
12/26/12 at 10:51pm
Hello,

Ordered my P55ST50 some days ago and it's still on the way as I'm outside the US so studying this thread in the meantime. Local dealer had no 55" in stock, besides the US price was too tempting so I couldn't resist. I'll need a step down transformer though and the tuner isn't compatible but it's not a big deal because I don't need it anyway.

Will appreciate very much if someone points me to any other issues regarding use of US TV set outside the US.

Thanks
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post #8003 of 9509
12/26/12 at 11:12pm
/
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonhern View Post

I set mine to output 720p and it has been fine, also have fios Dvr. On 1080i with 3:2 pull down set on the picture was not as sharp, especially the Dvr menus and guides as it is on 720p.

Thank you! I kinda suspected poor 1080i (and 720 too!) deinterlacing on U50 but I thought it wouldn't be an issue with the more expensive ST50. Since we mostly watch 1080i cable, this would absolutely suck. eek.gif After reading all the comments pertaining to the issue, I feel I'd made a poor choice, but what's the alternative? Sammy with a gorgeous PQ and 2 year life span? LCD? (No thank you.) I'm confused and not sure if I should refuse the delivery and buy a sammy with a 5 year warranty and hope for the best, dang.. PN50C590 had a perfect PQ in all modes and sources, but it didn't live long enough. So apparently all the glowing reviews on ST50 were based purely on 1080P sources? Really???
Edited by cynetinc - 12/26/12 at 11:46pm
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post #8004 of 9509
12/27/12 at 12:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cynetinc View Post

/
Thank you! I kinda suspected poor 1080i (and 720 too!) deinterlacing on U50 but I thought it wouldn't be an issue with the more expensive ST50. Since we mostly watch 1080i cable, this would absolutely suck. eek.gif After reading all the comments pertaining to the issue, I feel I'd made a poor choice, but what's the alternative? Sammy with a gorgeous PQ and 2 year life span? LCD? (No thank you.) I'm confused and not sure if I should refuse the delivery and buy a sammy with a 5 year warranty and hope for the best, dang.. PN50C590 had a perfect PQ in all modes and sources, but it didn't live long enough. So apparently all the glowing reviews on ST50 were based purely on 1080P sources? Really???
Yeah 720p did not solve the problem as today a noticed some bad oil painting effect. Was organizing the wires so I was up close and on this picture they were showing on the soup on E, the faces were all blurred, looked like brush stokes. I remembered seeing people mention oil painting effect on 720p so that popped in my head right away and so i switched the fios box to 1080i and it disappeared. I also raised sharpness to 10 from 0 and that helped a lot with the soft text. Apart from the soft text I don't notice anything else wrong with 1080i and 3:2 pull down. So just going to leave there.

And the cnet review did test 1080i and said it passed there test.
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post #8005 of 9509
12/27/12 at 2:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gomess023 View Post

Does anyone's know how to hook up a turtle beach x12 headset to this? The headset uses USB out and red and white RCA cables. Can you hook this up without using Xbox component because I no longer have those. Does the TV have a headphone jack or what setting on the TV change output audio to headphones.
No the 2012 Panasonic plasma TVs don't have a headphone or any analog audio outputs, only a single optical audio output jack.
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post #8006 of 9509
12/27/12 at 3:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cynetinc View Post

/
Thank you! I kinda suspected poor 1080i (and 720 too!) deinterlacing on U50 but I thought it wouldn't be an issue with the more expensive ST50. Since we mostly watch 1080i cable, this would absolutely suck. eek.gif After reading all the comments pertaining to the issue, I feel I'd made a poor choice, but what's the alternative? Sammy with a gorgeous PQ and 2 year life span? LCD? (No thank you.) I'm confused and not sure if I should refuse the delivery and buy a sammy with a 5 year warranty and hope for the best, dang.. PN50C590 had a perfect PQ in all modes and sources, but it didn't live long enough. So apparently all the glowing reviews on ST50 were based purely on 1080P sources? Really???
No. Not really. He may have a poor source. I am perfectly happy with 1080i and 720p on my ST. A poor choice would be to put too much weight on a few peoples negative posts when there are hundreds that are satisfied.
Edited by Bond 007 - 12/27/12 at 3:44am
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post #8007 of 9509
12/27/12 at 4:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rahzel View Post

I don't have any experience calibrating panasonic displays in the service menu. But AFAIK, calibrating warm for cinema mode will not affect Custom mode's warm color temperature. IIRC, if you had a G series panasonic, calibrating the Warm color temperature for Cinema mode will calibrate warm for cinema and THX mode (or something along those lines) but it will not affect Custom mode. So in other words, I think that BB's calibration for Cinema mode/Warm is irrelevant from Custom mode.
Ultimately they're your eyes. If Cinema mode looks good, but too bright... you should be ok lowering the contrast a few notches. If you prefer Custom mode, then just use Custom mode.

Rahzel did that change in the 2012 models ? Because in the 2011 models calibrating Warm color temp does impact custom mode.
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post #8008 of 9509
12/27/12 at 4:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Rahzel did that change in the 2012 models ? Because in the 2011 models calibrating Warm color temp does impact custom mode.
I also know that is how it works for the UT50.
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post #8009 of 9509
12/27/12 at 7:18am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by izlu View Post

Hello,
Ordered my P55ST50 some days ago and it's still on the way as I'm outside the US so studying this thread in the meantime. Local dealer had no 55" in stock, besides the US price was too tempting so I couldn't resist. I'll need a step down transformer though and the tuner isn't compatible but it's not a big deal because I don't need it anyway. Will appreciate very much if someone points me to any other issues regarding use of US TV set outside the US.

If your country's electrical grid is 240v @ 50Hz, the TV may not properly display a picture since US models require 120V @ 60Hz. This happened with my Air Force buddy when he tried to use his US Sony XBR LCD TV in Germany - his voltage converter was not capable of also converting 50Hz to 60Hz and his picture was all messed up. He said many of his fellow servicemen had the same problem and there was no solution other than to just buy a TV locally that's designed for their power grid. I think there is no way to properly convert 50Hz to the required 60Hz.

Also, you have no warranty coverage outside of the US so if something goes wrong with the TV, you may have trouble getting the parts from the US, and trouble finding a TV shop willing to do the repair - and it will be all at your cost.
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post #8010 of 9509
12/27/12 at 10:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

Rahzel did that change in the 2012 models ? Because in the 2011 models calibrating Warm color temp does impact custom mode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chunon View Post

I also know that is how it works for the UT50.
You're probably right. Again I don't have any experience calibrating Panasonic displays in the service menu. I thought I read somewhere that only certain picture modes correspond with each other and that cinema and custom don't.
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