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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 273

post #8161 of 9972
60hz haven't tried 48, no reason to
post #8162 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

60hz haven't tried 48, no reason to

Thx for the reply..

You dont have alot crosstalk and flicker in 3d?
post #8163 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

60hz haven't tried 48, no reason to

48Hz is the correct setting for 3D content on the 2012 Panasonic PDP's.
post #8164 of 9972
Hello

But then you get alot of flicker from what i read..
post #8165 of 9972
On the 48 hz setting i mean.
post #8166 of 9972
I think 48hz looks better but as someone else posted it is more sensitive to outside light. Flicker is a non issue with 60 and 48hz with the room fully dark. I've never noticed crosstalk on either setting. I have 2 pairs of the Panasonics and one pair of the Samsung glasses. Both perform pretty much the same with the edge going to the Panasonics superior comfort.
post #8167 of 9972
does flicker only happen with 3d or 2d as well?
post #8168 of 9972
You can't use 48hz on 2d as it will flicker like crazy.
post #8169 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7stringfury View Post

You can't use 48hz on 2d as it will flicker like crazy.

so if you use 60 on 2d you get no flicker at all?
post #8170 of 9972
can anyone confirm that the 2012 st50 50" has 16ms input lag?

http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/sub-1-frame-hdtv-monitor-input-lag-database.145141/

According to that it does, but I've heard that it has 40ms+, and all sorts of other information?

Does the input method affect input lag as well? What about running at resolutions like 480 and 720?

Thanks so much! I cant seem to find a clear answer anywhere.
post #8171 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by davelanger View Post

so if you use 60 on 2d you get no flicker at all?
Correct. And in my testing there wa no perceivable reduction in judder with 48hz anyhow. If anything panning shots appeared to have more judder with 48hz, due to the flicker.
post #8172 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by john2910 View Post

Thx the information....
I will forget about 3d then on this device....
Is your blu-ray player set to output a 24p frame rate? Because the TV does such an excellent job with 24p sources when set to 60hz, you want to make sure you're feeding it a 24p source; otherwise your player will try to do the pulldown and it won't be as good.
post #8173 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanbauer View Post

Is your blu-ray player set to output a 24p frame rate? Because the TV does such an excellent job with 24p sources when set to 60hz, you want to make sure you're feeding it a 24p source; otherwise your player will try to do the pulldown and it won't be as good.

No no no i still dont got the tv its ordered..

I am only gathering information here and from what i read on other forums..
post #8174 of 9972
Yup - i am *this* close to exchanging this 60" ST50 for a Samsung. The PQ is fantastic but the IR turns out is a big problem. I've already ran prep slides for 100hrs and then put in another 100hrs running breakin slides.

It doesnt take long for IR to show up - maybe 20-30mins when viewing content with a "solid" logo - i constantly have to run scrolling bars or change the aspect ratio every 15mins - if i let it go the logo remains on a solid color slide (invisible on normal viewing content). Now if its only visible on a slide, but not normal content - that should be fine - but this is after 20-30mins, hardly acceptable - maybe after a few hours then yes fine i can live with it.

The constant babysitting and the faint DSE (which again - i can only notice during hockey games *IF* i look for it), just adds to that annoyance.

That and the 3D isnt the best (its very good, but colors are a tad off - and best viewable at 48hz - which adds flicker and again to annoyance factor)

Pros:
1. Amazing PQ
2. Inky Blacks

Cons
1. Dirty Screen Effect - only visible if i hunt for it during hockey games - i can live with this, but still annoying.
2. Image Retention - after 200hrs i still get IR.
3. 48hz needed to make 3D most accurate - but adds flicker.

I am hoping the the cons can be rectified by Samsung 60" E6500 or 60" E8000 the only thing that concerns me about Sammies are
1. Buzz
2. Dimness

But since im in a light controlled environment i think 2 is moot, Im not sure how bad buzz is.

I think ill gladly trade in a 10 in PQ for a 9.5 without the multiplies of nagging issues.
post #8175 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanbauer View Post

Correct. And in my testing there wa no perceivable reduction in judder with 48hz anyhow. If anything panning shots appeared to have more judder with 48hz, due to the flicker.

Thanks
post #8176 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by theaero View Post

can anyone confirm that the 2012 st50 50" has 16ms input lag?
http://shoryuken.com/forum/index.php?threads/sub-1-frame-hdtv-monitor-input-lag-database.145141/
According to that it does, but I've heard that it has 40ms+, and all sorts of other information?
Does the input method affect input lag as well? What about running at resolutions like 480 and 720?
Thanks so much! I cant seem to find a clear answer anywhere.

theaero, I see we are on the same boat. Both of us want the ST50 but are uneasy about the input lag. The best formal test i have found is the youtube video I posted at SRK using Leo Bodnar's Input lag tester on the australian version of the 50" ST50:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Rj6p-fEjCGA#!

Has any one here tested input lag on their ST50? and if so, can you be kind enough to share what method and results did you get?

Regards,
Ernie
Edited by tjernie - 1/6/13 at 2:58pm
post #8177 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjernie View Post

theaero, I see we are on the same boat. Both of us want the ST50 but are uneasy about the input lag. The best formal test i have found is the youtube video I posted at SRK using Leo Bodnar's Input lag tester on the australian version of the 50" ST50:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Rj6p-fEjCGA#!
Has anyone one here tested input lag on their ST50? and if so, can you be kind enough to share what method and results did you get?
Regards,
Ernie

I wish i knew if that tv was in gaming mode or not....wink.gif
post #8178 of 9972
Just wanted to say that I am watching the WAS vs. SEA playoff game on FOX (OTA) and man, is this picture amazing.
post #8179 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by john2910 View Post

I wish i knew if that tv was in gaming mode or not....wink.gif

He uses normal and game mode. Just look at the video.
43.2 ms for game mode
60.9 ms for normal mode
post #8180 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjernie View Post

He uses normal and game mode. Just look at the video.
43.2 ms for game mode
60.9 ms for normal mode

thats very high..
post #8181 of 9972
How do you get into game mode?
post #8182 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjernie View Post

He uses normal and game mode. Just look at the video.
43.2 ms for game mode
60.9 ms for normal mode

That testing method is different from the method used to get 16 ms. If that testing method was used on all monitors that list input lag they all would increase as well. The device may end up revealing the true input lag however and the gaming community will have to adjust to these new higher values. At least it shows that game mode is indeed faster than normal mode.
post #8183 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgrotel View Post

How do you get into game mode?

Press Menu>Picture>OK>Left/Right Arrows to select Game>Return
post #8184 of 9972
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/108564/P55ST50.mov

I'm trying to connect my Macbook Pro to my ST50 via a HDMI to Mini Display port cord but this is what I get. This occurs when I have the resolution set at "Best for display" or 1080p. It works fine when I set it to 1080i or lower but not 1080p. Does anyone know how I can fix this? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
post #8185 of 9972
Helping a relative choose a TV for a new place....have narrowed down search to similarly sized ST or U series Panny. I haven't kept up with the characteristics of these sets in a few years since I last searched for a plasma for myself. Will the black levels be appreciably better on the ST?

3D will not be used and the extra features of the ST are not applicable in this setup. Strictly comparing picture quality....I recall reading about an additional filter on the ST levels and up that is supposed to make the set perform better in non-controlled atmosphere with regard to light. This also won't be a big issue since the room the set is going in will not have any windows behind it and the ambient light level is very low.

Based on these parameters, are there still good reasons to pay the premium for the ST? Many thanks!
post #8186 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Avarice_ View Post

Helping a relative choose a TV for a new place....have narrowed down search to similarly sized ST or U series Panny. I haven't kept up with the characteristics of these sets in a few years since I last searched for a plasma for myself. Will the black levels be appreciably better on the ST?
3D will not be used and the extra features of the ST are not applicable in this setup. Strictly comparing picture quality....I recall reading about an additional filter on the ST levels and up that is supposed to make the set perform better in non-controlled atmosphere with regard to light. This also won't be a big issue since the room the set is going in will not have any windows behind it and the ambient light level is very low.
Based on these parameters, are there still good reasons to pay the premium for the ST? Many thanks!

ST adds NeoPlasma Panel, Infinite Black Pro, Anti-Reflective Louver Filter, 8-Train Speakers, WiFi
I would spend the extra money for the st
post #8187 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Avarice_ View Post

Helping a relative choose a TV for a new place....have narrowed down search to similarly sized ST or U series Panny. I haven't kept up with the characteristics of these sets in a few years since I last searched for a plasma for myself. Will the black levels be appreciably better on the ST?
3D will not be used and the extra features of the ST are not applicable in this setup. Strictly comparing picture quality....I recall reading about an additional filter on the ST levels and up that is supposed to make the set perform better in non-controlled atmosphere with regard to light. This also won't be a big issue since the room the set is going in will not have any windows behind it and the ambient light level is very low.
Based on these parameters, are there still good reasons to pay the premium for the ST? Many thanks!
In a light controlled room, the UT50 and ST50 will perform fairly similar. The most significant differences between them are that the ST50 has an infinite black pro filter (which doesn't really concern you) and the pro settings in the user menu. The UT50 can be calibrated in the service menu, but only the white balance. In addition to white balance controls, the pro settings menu in the ST50 also has a gamma slider whereas the UT50 has no control over the gamma, which is a somewhat important feature that is missing because the UT50's gamma is a bit low in its best picture mode (Cinema).

So with all that said, in a light controlled room, the UT50 will be fine for the average person. But to videophiles/HT enthusiasts who care more about picture, the ST50 is the better choice. Not to mention it has better styling and an extra HDMI port (if that's important).
post #8188 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoo0418 View Post

Just in case anyone was interested, yes, the SNES works on a normal CRT. I will probably go ahead and buy the composite to HDMI converter on Amazon.
why not just get an Rf modulater, it's a powered box that you input the composite feed into and then you run a coaxial cable from it to the TVs antenna input and set it to ether channel 3 or 4 like an old cable box or VCR. Probably a lot cheaper than an HDMI converter.
Here is one for $10: http://www.amazon.com/Dynex-DX-AD116-Compact-RF-Modulator/dp/B006K1R3TY/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1357539842&sr=1-5
Use one to run systems on a Samsung TV we have that has no composite inputs and it works well. We used to use one back in the day for our old TV too.
post #8189 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

If your country's electrical grid is 240v @ 50Hz, the TV may not properly display a picture since US models require 120 V @ 60Hz. This happened with my Air Force buddy when he tried to use his US Sony XBR LCD TV in Germany - his voltage converter was not capable of also converting 50Hz to 60Hz and his picture was all messed up. He said many of his fellow servicemen had the same problem and there was no solution other than to just buy a TV locally that's designed for their power grid. I think there is no way to properly convert 50Hz to the required 60Hz.
Also, you have no warranty coverage outside of the US so if something goes wrong with the TV, you may have trouble getting the parts from the US, and trouble finding a TV shop willing to do the repair - and it will be all at your cost.

Our electrical grid is 220VAC 50Hz so I've been worrying about the 50/60Hz issue the most. All online specs and manuals indicate the ST50 power usage as 120 VAC 60Hz. Read a lot about this issue, some guys even suggest to use 220VAC to 12VDC adapter and 12VDC to 120 VAC inverter combo which is not very aesthetically looking at least. So I borrowed a 220 VAC to 110 VAC step down transformer to try it first.

My 55" ST50 has arrived yesterday and the first thing I did was checking its power requirements which stated 120 VAC 50/60 Hz smile.gif Then I took it to a local TV/Radio repair shop where they replaced some parts inside the PSU so that the TV set can now be powered from the local grid using no step down transformer! I was told also that 50/60 Hz issue was not a big deal as along as there's no AC motor involved.

Watched some movies at home in a Standard setting and was totally blown away by PQ. I was able to notice details I've never been able to on another 42" Panasonic we've had for 3 years. Running the slides now, no horizontal or vertical bars are visible whatsoever, only some buzz can be heard during light grey slides.
post #8190 of 9972
OK this is the line bleed/flicker issue I mentioned earlier. I took a couple of photos. Feint horizontal lines extend from the corner rims of Carl's eyeglasses. The flicker occurs when he moves his head about. Do most ST50's have this? Am I more sensitive to it and notice it more easily?




*The lines might be easier to see if you have the site skin set to AVS Black.
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