Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 288

Yes. I prefer made in Japan.

Thank you for so detailed answer!

ive heard the "buzzing" quite often, but only on white screens, even when playing the color slides (brake in). i can actually hear it quite well when the slides are playing.


hey Risk235, i know you dropped some cash on the calibration, but would you mind pm'ing me the settings so i can see if it makes a hugh quslity difference in the c-net settings im currently using?


also, i asked if anyone knew the VESA numbers for the 55st50 on the last page? im trying to order a wall mount from monoprice and want to make sure i order the proper mount. does anhyone have an idea? the owners manual doesnt list it, i cant find it anywhere on line, and i dont really trust the BB people as most are ill-informed.

thanks

Page 8 under "Optional Accessories" in your manual. a lot of the monoprice wall mounts have a minimum vesa of 400x400 but they will work with the vertical 300mm as well. Your TV has a 500x300 vesa.

a: Horizontal 15.7” (400 mm) (50”)
19.7” (500 mm) (55”/60”)
26.9” (684 mm) (65”)
b:Vertical 11.8” (300 mm)

^^thanks

i looked in the manual and the online manual, and i didnt see anything listed. time to order the wall mount. this is the one ill order http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=5916&seq=1&format=3#specification

I checked out your vid, if you mean the full screen grey/black flash before the racing action comes on? If you do thats not the same issues I've got. My issue is say when the car racing comes on the screen, it will start with the full vision on the screen but with black spots (groups of pixels off maybe) then they fade away within 1 to 2 seconds. maybe a enegry saving thing. Hopefully it will improve as the pixels age and stablize?
Regards wassa

Hi guys
Can I add my two bobs worth to this question (old aussie slang for adding to a discussion)
In this day and age people believe Japan is better for manufactured electronics but I believe it’s irrelevant as my little list of major electrical purchases over the last few years’ shows
TH-50PZ700A made in Japan........needed a new PCB fitted (at home) within the first month (1/6 th of the screen would go black from time to time, top R/H corner) perfect since
TH-P42S20A made in Malaysia............ Bought for Mother in law....no issues
TH-P42GT30A made in Malaysia........... No issues
Denon AVR 2312 made in China.......... New HDMI board fitted within the first month, perfect since
Denon AVR4311 made in Japan.............No issues
TH-P60ST50A made in Malaysia........... Just purchased, strange issue as posted. But maybe as I’m not used to a large screen?
Just a side note, I have and old Panasonic widescreen CRT TX76PW300A(the 76 stands for the screen size in cm’s) that was made by Panasonic Australia with some imported parts that lives in the garage now but still works a treat. Best picture but at 75Kg’s, cabinet depth and screen uniformity issues killed them!

My NZ bought V10 was assembled in Japan and my 60" GT50 was assembled in Thailand. Never heard of a Malaysian assembly plant for PDPs.

Ah, ok thats very different. It sounds like misfiring pixels (lack of voltage). If you only see them at the start and not during normal viewing, then I think you'll be ok. I bet if you run the scroll bar you'll also see them.

Just for anyone looking. I'm a new and proud owner of the P50ST50 and I purchased this mount.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MYQTEI/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
Easy to install and a very slim mount for the movable bracket.

You right, All my plasma's were built in Thailand, except the PZ700A which of course was japan. my children each have a small Panasonic LCD and I have a small Panasonic LED in our bedroom. All from Malaysia.

I've since my last post ran a critical eye over my TH-P42GT30A and have noticed it seems to do the same at start up too, as I posted previously I think I've noticed it now because this is the first time I've had a screen this big. Regards wassa

Rahzel and Wolo: little update: after using Disney's WoW disc, I found that the settings I'd found online had pushed the red-green hue balance hugely too far to the red (35 Green, 65 Red). Using the WoW disc's chroma and hue calibration guidance, I found that my set was color-neutral at 46G, 54R. This was gratifying--it'd been tough trying to convince myself that pink is the new white.

The disc also advised me to raise my Brightness, which I really hadn't expected. I'm iffy on Contrast--I didn't fully understand how to set my Contrast per the test pattern. The Contrast test pattern also really exposed my Samsung's failures of uniformity and overall luminance in all-white scenes.

Still, I'm totally loving the picture on my set now. It's never looked this good. That's crazy, that calibration has made my three year old budget plasma new again. Thanks, AVS regulars, I don't wanna give anybody any bright ideas but membership at this site would absolutely be worth paying for.

Anyway, yeah. Just like the experts say, you can't fully rely on somebody else's settings. On the other hand, the settings I found online were a huge improvement on what I'd done by myself; and they included changes to values that the WoW disc doesn't address (cell light, white balance), and these changes both yielded dramatic improvements.

To sum it up, if you're looking for a good calibration but don't want to eat a $500 bill, you might try grabbing one from a reputable source online, and then customizing it with WoW or a similar test pattern video. This worked amazingly well for me.

Menu>Picture>Aspect adjustments>HD Size

My set arrived yesterday (55"). So far, so good. Took it through some basic runs of movies and such, then let it run overnight while settling in. Today I tried some games and it wasn't pretty. In Halo 4 for example, turning to the left or right shows immense ghosting. It nearly renders the game unplayable. This isn't blur; the entirety of the image, the previous frame if you will, is still fading when turning. Hard to describe in text I guess. Same thing happened with the PS3 and Wipeout HD in 3D, so it's both modes and different hardware. Can't say I'm seeing it too much with movies though....

Is this is a break-in issue that will alleviate over time?

Motion Smoothing will screw up your video gaming imaging so I'd make sure that is off first. Also I haven't played Halo 4 yet, but Halo Reach had a TERRIBLE frame rate which had nothing to do with the TV (I have an ST30) and it was a complete blurry mess. I would try other games to see if you are getting the same issues. Preferably one with a known 60 frames per second. That will show you whether it's the game's frame rate that sucks or some setting being wrong on your TV. These plasmas shouldn't impart any ghosting on a game with 60fps unlike LCDs which will blur the hell out of even the fastest games.

Motion smoothing is definitely off. First thing I did when I got it.

I'm coming from an LCD in which I saw none of these issues with H4. I tried Super Stardust HD and it looked fantastic (60fps), 2D or 3D. If this is how the TV handles low frame rates - which would be bizarre to me - there's no way I can handle this. Turning literally turns the entire screen into a double image which makes aiming almost impossible when in motion.

I wouldn't mind but some of the settings such as the gains and cuts were done in the service menu. If you look at Cnet calibration report and my report, it's totally different. I used the exact same settings they posted and it yield different results.
Edited by risk235 - 1/27/13 at 11:39am

just looking for the basic contrast/menu type settings to go against the cnet settings i now have in there.





and i have a slight burn in from that damn fox2 icon. BS!!!! not sure why the tv stations cant have their logo move instead of being stationary.

I had no issues with halo 4. What mode/settings are you using? There might also be some settings on the Xbox you need to check, but I haven't had to mess with that myself.

What's the best way to set up a replacement with Amazon, email them or have them call you? For those that had a replacement(s) sent from Amazon do they let you keep the original one allowing you to decide which, if any, you want to keep? How many of you had more than one replacement sent?

Talk on the phone and ask them all your questions. They have always been very nice and helpful to me. They will not let you keep both and come back later. For some crazy reason they assume that if you need a replacement the other one isn't worth keeping.

Are you referring to a delivery appointment? To request a replacement you have to call them.
Replacements are for defective displays, not for comparison shopping. As I understand it, Amazon delivers the replacement set, and takes the original one away at that time.
Are you looking for a display that buzzes less than the one you already have, or one that is better in some other characteristic than the one you have? Some store managers will let a customer check the replacement display in their store before it's sent out. I don't think Amazon can afford to do that. If you keep requesting replacements, at some point they would just give you a refund.

The reason I asked about holding onto the replacement is because I swore I saw someone mention in this thread that Amazon let them hold onto the original while they tested out the replacement, just in case the latter was worse. They then set up a pick-up for one of the TVs. I was too lazy to search, but I'll see if I can locate the post.

If I remember right the limit is 3 (not that I've done it) which is very generous. Especially when they are bringing them inside your house and opening them for you each time and taking away the old one.That is not free for Amazon.

I find that extremely unlikely and is a good reminder not to believe everything you read here or anywhere else. Amazon will let you know for sure.
If it is something obvious that you can evaluate quickly (scratches, dents, loud buzzing) you may be able to talk the delivery guys into waiting for a minute. But be ready to do whatever it is you are wanting to do because they don't have to wait. I suggest you be armed with a flashlight and the slides on a usb. Check the screen thoroughly with a flashlight and then put the slides in and check for buzzing and screen defects while you inspect the rest of the tv with the flashlight.
Edited by Bond 007 - 1/27/13 at 1:07pm

Regardless of how impatient the delivery guys look or if they say that they have other deliveries I will definitely check for visible damage, including using a flashlight to check for spider cracks. The first time I felt rushed by the delivery guys as they wanted me to sign the delivery slip ASAP, so I only powered the TV on, but did not use the slides. I will do that this time. I am much more comfortable with the Viera Tools menu and picture settings so it should be quick.

Sounds like a plan. They cant come in and rush you but you cant expect them to stand there for 30 minutes either. They will be busy taking away the old one too so you have that in your favor.

It's on custom with any and all processing off. I can't even imagine what modes/settings could possibly be causing this short of motion smoothing, and like I said, that's off. I have a bunch of other 360 games sitting here that I rented which I'll be trying out soon and I'll report back. What's odd is that the frame rate sounds right. I was playing around with the 3D conversion via Earth Defense Force, and that didn't even have any blur to speak of. Never seen an image hold together that well honestly. It runs at 60fps.

Edit: Here's an image that shows the issue in Halo 4:



Playing Sonic Generations in 3D reveals the same issue, which also runs at 30fps. Tried running the cable direct to my TV (runs through my receiver normally) and the issue remains. Hoping this will go away after a break-in period, but still wondering if anyone else is seeing/has seen this.
Edited by Gamereviewgod - 1/27/13 at 2:37pm

Yep. Fingers crossed. I really wanted this to be one and done, but it wasn't. Over the last few days I watched a lot of different content at different volume levels to see if I could live with the buzzing, but I just can't. The best test that I used was watching the movie "Up". It has a lot of bright scenes - dense white fog, pale blue skies, cloudy skies, a large white-gray blimp. With a late night listening volume I could hear the on/off buzzing sound. Even with a louder volume there were still quite a few quite scenes where the buzzing was easily heard. I hear the buzzing with other content as well, but watching "Up" again was the clincher.