Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 289

...did you need anything besides Disney WOW disc to calibrate the colors? (did you need a device to measure colors- or just blue glasses etc?). So far I have just used the free AVSHD DVD. I found CNET settings on Contrast/Brightness (82/60) to be good on my set at Gamma=2.6. Except I am backing off to 80/61save energy a little bit.

I believe all you need is the WoW disc to do your self-calibration.

But if it looks good to you, then that's all that matters.

I use a mix of CNETS and DNICES settings and backed off the gamma and my whites look bright to me and my blacks look wet.

Dude, that sucks. I agree with you though, shouldn't have to try and live with that.

Wow, that's bad. Yeah, I haven't seen anything like that. I only played halo 4 multiplayer on this TV, though. Doubt that would make a difference, but full disclosure. I've played Red Dead and some Xbox arcade stuff. Everything has been fine. I'm using Rahzel's settings from way back in this thread if you want to cross check them with yours.

I'm running hdmi through my denon 2112, fwiw.

Multiplayer is where I first noticed it, so no. I also put in Killzone 3 on the PS3 and the issue is there as well. I feel like I'm missing something super obvious. I did a quick calibration with DVE to make it tolerable, and I'll run it again after a break-in period. I'll check the settings you mentioned because at this point, it can't hurt.

All 30fps games will show these framedoubling crap! You can try to set motionsmoother on to lessen the effect.
Thats why I bought especially a Samsung LED/LCD EH6030 to play the only 30fps games on it, works well because the "natural" LCD blur covers the framedoubling of 30fps!
Because the tv is 60Hz=60frames, when input 30 frames games, the tv simply doubles the 30frames to 60frames! same on LCD.

read this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1107325/30fps-gaming-at-60hz-and-the-effects-of-frame-doubling
read this: http://forum.beyond3d.com/showthread.php?t=61174
read this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/960548/120hz-lcd-vs-crt-pics#post_12582317
Edited by iBrad - 1/28/13 at 5:58am

TV makers are lame and should make a real 30fps mode for 30fps games, just like the 24fps movie mode, instead only a gamemode that disable some setting.
30fps gamers should demand a 30fps gamemode on tv's! who's gonna do it?

How strange, I've never noticed this effect on my own tv, nor heard conversation about it elsewhere. What the heck...?

That's because you are not a (console) gamer!
We 30fps console gamers felt into the plasma trap, assuming it has not blur gaming blur, but then this nasty accurate Plasma framedoubling is worst then LCD blur!

the 360 and PS3 output 60 fps, not 30 fps. So any doubling will be done inside the console, not by the TV.

Yes, you are totally correct, consoles outputs at 60Hz. So we need a tv with frame-halving 30Hz/fps game convertion mode!
Do tv makers care or notice this 30fps gaming issue?

I am confused. If the game theoretically runs at 30 fps, and the console outputs 60 fps, and the TV (in your scenario) halves that to 30 fps, would that not make things worse? The signal would be converted twice, once by the console and once by the TV.

As a preemptive measure, I will tell you that I am a console gamer, having played on a plasma for years and never noticed any issues, including several Halo games (even the aforementioned Reach).

Is there a specific flash drive to use with this tv. When i first bought it i was going to run the slides, but the flash drive i put the file on could not be read by the tv. Then i thought i read somewhere online that the flash drive had to be something specific. Anyone know what i need?

Did you format the flash drive before loading the slides?

Also, the manual says that it can't display still images that are not DCF formatted (i.e. TIFF, BMP).

Let me ask though, are you getting it professionally calibrated? Because that is the main reason why one would run the slides to age the panel and get it ready for professional calibration. Otherwise, it is not really needed.

No specific flash drive but it is best to do it on a pc instead of a mac. Are you using a mac?

check the file system format. try fat32

Edited by iBrad - 1/28/13 at 6:38am

Actually, I bought an LCD in 2010 that I replaced in four days with a plasma because LCD blur bothered my eyes, especially in dim scenes. The plasma was different in its blur, and preferable, but it wasn't the perfection I'd been expecting. I think this thread explains the 'blur' I've sometimes seen while gaming... or maybe not? It's sporadic and even rare. Or maybe I'm just used to it now. Anyway, very informative thread and comments, thanks!

This exact thing is happening to me. It's brutal watching hockey. Have you heard of a fix?

I meant to quote this in my previous post. I have an ST50 and I'm having the same issue watching hockey games. The fluctuation is brightness is brutal! Do you know of a fix?

I'm not running any slides. My tv has been running for near 500 hours and has been calibrated already. Just looking to get a new flash drive and want to make sure it works with the tv. I had read that it had to be a certain size or something

What picture mode are you in? I noticed when using standard mode the brightness will fluctuate. It even mentions the fluctuation in the manual. I have been watching a lot of Blackhawks hockey in Custom mode and have not had any fluctuations.

I meant that if the console is sending out 60 the TV, which is natively 60, would not have to do anything. It is getting exactly what it needs from the console. Why do you propose having it take 60 and make 30? I could see your point of having a "30 Hz Mode" if the console passed through 30.

To your other absurd remark, no, I do not wear glasses. I am also sure that I am not the only one who has not experienced issues with plasmas. See Wolowizard's comment, for instance.

I was watching a little hockey and ice skating this weekend and did not see this issue yet on my set.
But this is due to power protection circuits in the Plasma TVs due to the white colors use more watts.
Make sure your automatic dimming C.A.T.S. is off so room lighting change does not cause dimming.
I have contrast/brightness/gamma at 80/61/2.6 which is near CNET settings and not too high power consumption. I do not know if these calibration settings help to minimize the problem hockey viewers have reported.But Contrast especially over 80 increases power as does Gamma below 2.6, I find. I also find component input seems to consume more power than coax/ant input, have not compared to HDMI yet.

Sorry, I missed this earlier. The WoW disc comes with a blue filter that you use to calibrate chroma and hue with a color-bar test pattern.

With the blur, it looked somewhat natural - blur happens in real life. This is too crisp. When I need to turn around and start shooting quickly, I'm literally looking at three different people for a split second, enough for my shot to whiz by an artificial target. Now I'm conflicted what to do with this TV.

Thanks for all of the information.

That's wild. I'm confident that I've never seen this, gaming on PS3 and 360 over the last three years. On the other hand, my plasma is a Samsung (although it sounds like that shouldn't matter). I'll see in a couple of weeks whether my ST50 does this, and come back to the thread with my own findings.

Yes, same here...and my previous set is a Panny plasma. Entry-level 720p, too. So, one would figure it would perform more poorly as compared to a mid-to-upper-range ST. I have not done any serious gaming on the ST (been playing some Black Ops II and currently Borderlands 2 on the PC lately) so I cannot speak with 100% confidence about this set in particular. I am speaking more to the notion of plasmas' performance in general. I will report back when I get my game on with the ST. Ironically, the game that is waiting for me is Halo 4.

i let the color slides play thru the night, and another panasonic black/white bar sweeping mode once today. the fox2 image is still brunt in and is not going away. so i called the geek squad, he said i still had 2 days to do a return for a new one. so i just got back from my local BB. they are having one shipped in from another store, then they will bring it to my house for replacement. this time, the new tv will be in my spare room and the color slides will run for 200 hrs this time w/o any interruption or regular tv watching untill the 200hr cycle is done.

one thing i didnt see upon the hundreds of posts ive read about the 55st50, is when your doing the slide break in, what are your color/temp settings at? dont adjust it from the factory, or max out contrast and brightness?

i just watched the redwings/blackhawks game last night. and other games in the past few weeks. i havent experienced any issues with color clarity or ghosting images.
55st50
custom
80 constast
62 brightness
2.2 gamma
all other settings are copied exactly from cnets specs

I would use Custom mode (within the Photos settings) and leave everything default, especially if you intend to use D-nice's reference settings. Default has contrast at 100 and brightness at 50. I believe the higher contrast ages the pixels faster.

First, turn the pixel orbiter off: Menu-->Setup-->Anti image retention-->Off. Press VIERA TOOLS -> Media-Player -> Photos to show thumbnails of all the pictures on your USB stick. Then press 'MENU' on the remote. Choose 'Picture' and select Picture mode: Custom. Again, leave all settings at default. Press the 'RETURN' button on the remote. Next Press the red rectangular button under 'R" on the remote. Set the 'Slideshow Settings' to the following:

Slideshow Settings

Frame: Off
Photo Effect: Off
Transition Effect: Off
Photo Size: Normal
Burst Playback: Off
Display Interval: Slow
Repeat Playback: On

Finally, select 'Start Slideshow' on the menu.

The above is a shortened version of what is available on the high def junkies forum. I would suggest registering there and looking at the "2012 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread". Posts #1 and #41 have all the info in more detail.