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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 292

post #8731 of 9472
2/1/13 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassLake View Post

Zero out the color so now you're looking at a black and white image or TV show and ask the technician why there's still patches of different colors. I had a pink and green tinted ST30 replaced using that argument.
I showed him grey pattern and he saw the red tint but he said if I can't see any tint while watching normal content or in their inner test patterns ( which is 100 IRE white) then the TV is fine.

Anyway how did you zero out the color ?
Edited by fallengt - 2/1/13 at 9:37am
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post #8732 of 9472
2/1/13 at 8:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaviorMachine View Post

I know, right? You'd think. And yet, my first plasma, a Samsung that I bought in 2010 from a brick and mortar, was exactly the same: shattered before opening. Handled gingerly, believe me, I handle electronics more carefully than I handle eggs.

It'd be a strange universe with no coincidences in it. And yet--

Huh, I'll be darned. confused.gif
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post #8733 of 9472
2/1/13 at 1:43pm
Someone had ask what were my settings after calibration. Well here they are. Note that the 2 point grayscale was done in the service menu.

Picture mode: Cinema
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 49
Color: 45
Tint: 1
Sharpness: 0

Color Temperature: Warm 2

Black level: light

Service Menu

Cuts:
R 83
G 80
B 7D

Drives:
R F3
G F0
B 78
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post #8734 of 9472
2/1/13 at 1:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fallengt View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by BassLake View Post

Zero out the color so now you're looking at a black and white image or TV show and ask the technician why there's still patches of different colors. I had a pink and green tinted ST30 replaced using that argument.
I showed him grey pattern and he saw the red tint but he said if I can't see any tint while watching normal content or in their inner test patterns ( which is 100 IRE white) then the TV is fine.

Anyway how did you zero out the color ?

In the menu under whatever mode the TV is in such as Cinema/Custom etc. The problems in the pictures you posted should show up in shows that contain clouds of various shades, scenes with snow and the ice from a hockey game. Better yet look at an old B&W movie and see if the "discoloration" is visible if it is you may have a case. The technician I had saw the discoloration on the slides and took pictures as well. The problem is the discoloration sometimes doesn't show too well on a photo and you have no idea how the tech's camera is setup. The photos get sent to Panasonic and they then say there's no problem and round it goes. They've got you and know it. Good luck.

Edit: They will probably come back and say the TV is in spec so be prepared.
Edited by BassLake - 2/1/13 at 1:58pm
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post #8735 of 9472
2/1/13 at 3:05pm
Hoping someone can assist me with disabling on-screen volume display. I watch TV with the Denon AVR-1913 sometimes, and sometimes without it. I don't want two different activities in my Harmony, so have a hotkey to turn off the denon. Problem is that then I have to use the top touchscreen programmable buttons as Vol +/- because the volume toggle I have set to the Denon. If the Denon is on, and running audio, the TV volume controls will pass along the volume command to the Denon, but the TV displays "Home theater Volume" directly on top of the Denon on-screen volume display. I want to disable the Panny's volume on-screen so that I can just have the harmony toggle programmed to the TV, but still see what the volume level is independent of sound control.

SO, long story short: The TV volume control will pass changes to the receiver, but the TV audio display when surround is on overlays the surround audio display. I want to turn it off so that I can see the receiver GUI volume reading, while only having to have one device programmed into my Harmony volume buttons.

Sorry for being so long-winded, but I've tried to sum it up a bit. Thanks for the help in advance, as I know this forum is full of great knowledgeable people.

**PS** I LOVE the ST-50. Calibrated with WOW, and it is fantastic. moderately bright rooms pose no problem, and in the dark it's amazing. The "fake" 3-d is even quite good. I always thought that was gimmicky, but have been duly impressed with the ST-50's performance. And the true 3D is great too. IMAX Space Station post-calibration was simply stunning.

Enjoy your ST-50's and the soon to come new ones (ST-60?) everyone, I know I will!
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post #8736 of 9472
2/1/13 at 4:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowanbuds View Post

Hoping someone can assist me with disabling on-screen volume display. I watch TV with the Denon AVR-1913 sometimes, and sometimes without it. I don't want two different activities in my Harmony, so have a hotkey to turn off the denon. Problem is that then I have to use the top touchscreen programmable buttons as Vol +/- because the volume toggle I have set to the Denon. If the Denon is on, and running audio, the TV volume controls will pass along the volume command to the Denon, but the TV displays "Home theater Volume" directly on top of the Denon on-screen volume display. I want to disable the Panny's volume on-screen so that I can just have the harmony toggle programmed to the TV, but still see what the volume level is independent of sound control........


What is your objection to have separate Activities?

We use one for "Watch Uverse" which turns on TV and Uverse STB/DVR - volume buttons control TV.

Use a Second Activity of "Uverse Movie" which also turns on the HTR (or AVR - whatever) - now primary volume buttons control the HTR. But have programmed two "soft" buttons to control TV Vol, as often find that the TV is still running its speakers (Example: we switch from a News / Sports Talk show - tv speakers only - to a Movie/TV Program, where we want the surround sound.)

Additional Activities run Blu-ray and HDDVD players, each selecting the appropriate equipment & switching the HTR to the proper input.

The remote is "smart" enough NOT to toggle power switch for devices that will remain in use when switching activities.

Reasonably impressed all-in-all - although some of the Physical Buttons are becoming reluctant in use....
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post #8737 of 9472
2/2/13 at 9:25pm
That's because of Vieira link. Turn it off, you don't really need it since you have a harmony remote. And do what dierkdr said, set up two activities one with the TV as volume and one with out. The only thing Idk about is if there is an easy way to turn off the volume on the TV while using the Deon. That's the main benefit of using vieria link as its automatic. But I guess you can have the remote send a mute command to the TV. But as long as you have vieria link on, even if you are sending the signal directly to the receiver as you are doing now, the TV will display the volume because the two devices are talking to each other.

I think the way you were talking about is the easier option, volume buttons programmed to TV volume command, but if you must get rid of the dual on screen displays then you will have to do it the other way. But to be clear, when the TV displays the volume for home theater it is the correct volume on the denon, so don't worry about getting wrong info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowanbuds View Post

Hoping someone can assist me with disabling on-screen volume display. I watch TV with the Denon AVR-1913 sometimes, and sometimes without it. I don't want two different activities in my Harmony, so have a hotkey to turn off the denon. Problem is that then I have to use the top touchscreen programmable buttons as Vol +/- because the volume toggle I have set to the Denon. If the Denon is on, and running audio, the TV volume controls will pass along the volume command to the Denon, but the TV displays "Home theater Volume" directly on top of the Denon on-screen volume display. I want to disable the Panny's volume on-screen so that I can just have the harmony toggle programmed to the TV, but still see what the volume level is independent of sound control.

SO, long story short: The TV volume control will pass changes to the receiver, but the TV audio display when surround is on overlays the surround audio display. I want to turn it off so that I can see the receiver GUI volume reading, while only having to have one device programmed into my Harmony volume buttons.

Sorry for being so long-winded, but I've tried to sum it up a bit. Thanks for the help in advance, as I know this forum is full of great knowledgeable people.

**PS** I LOVE the ST-50. Calibrated with WOW, and it is fantastic. moderately bright rooms pose no problem, and in the dark it's amazing. The "fake" 3-d is even quite good. I always thought that was gimmicky, but have been duly impressed with the ST-50's performance. And the true 3D is great too. IMAX Space Station post-calibration was simply stunning.

Enjoy your ST-50's and the soon to come new ones (ST-60?) everyone, I know I will!
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post #8738 of 9472
2/3/13 at 12:05pm
Have had my 65" for just under 2 months now... I still love this set dark room movies are just great looking with D-Nice's Custom settings. My son has XBOXed on it all weekend & no IR to be seen. Great tv!!


Cam
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post #8739 of 9472
2/4/13 at 12:49pm
I recently got the 65" ST50. I have noticed it being very difficult to make out detail in dark portions of the image and dark scenes just look black, even in low light. I restored the default image settings and put on cinema mode. I then tried the THX calibration tool as well as the the one for download on this website. On the black/brightness patterns of both tests I am only able to see the proper test pattern, (and only barely) at night, with all of the lights in the room turned off and the brightness set to +100. Is there something I am missing or do I have a defective unit?
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post #8740 of 9472
2/4/13 at 2:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamsj83 View Post

I recently got the 65" ST50. I have noticed it being very difficult to make out detail in dark portions of the image and dark scenes just look black, even in low light. I restored the default image settings and put on cinema mode. I then tried the THX calibration tool as well as the the one for download on this website. On the black/brightness patterns of both tests I am only able to see the proper test pattern, (and only barely) at night, with all of the lights in the room turned off and the brightness set to +100. Is there something I am missing or do I have a defective unit?

Brightness should never go over 60, somewhere between 50-60 is normal. I'm not sure where you went wrong during calibration.
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post #8741 of 9472
2/4/13 at 2:14pm
I am seeing people report on WOW, Dnice and the THX calibration tool- doesn't anyone use DVE anymore? i Just ordered it for my soon to arrive 60ST50 because I have always used Joe Kane's tools since before digital. Is there some reason why I should use another product?
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post #8742 of 9472
2/4/13 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamsj83 View Post

I recently got the 65" ST50. I have noticed it being very difficult to make out detail in dark portions of the image and dark scenes just look black, even in low light. I restored the default image settings and put on cinema mode. I then tried the THX calibration tool as well as the the one for download on this website. On the black/brightness patterns of both tests I am only able to see the proper test pattern, (and only barely) at night, with all of the lights in the room turned off and the brightness set to +100. Is there something I am missing or do I have a defective unit?

If you are using custom it could be that your Gamma is too high say 2.6 instead of 2.4. The other thing is make sure the Black Level is set to light in the Advanced Settings I believe it is located. Or it could be the player is outputting in the wrong colorspace & that can make blacks crushed too. But I have the same set if you need to compare any settings though I'm basically using D-Nice's which seem great.

Cam
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post #8743 of 9472
2/4/13 at 3:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamsj83 View Post

I recently got the 65" ST50. I have noticed it being very difficult to make out detail in dark portions of the image and dark scenes just look black, even in low light. I restored the default image settings and put on cinema mode. I then tried the THX calibration tool as well as the the one for download on this website. On the black/brightness patterns of both tests I am only able to see the proper test pattern, (and only barely) at night, with all of the lights in the room turned off and the brightness set to +100. Is there something I am missing or do I have a defective unit?
A lower gamma setting should fix it.

FWIW, D-Nice's settings might give you a good starting point but since there can be substantial panel-to-panel variances, using them is far from a true "calibration." Too many people think that D-Nice's settings are the last word, but for any set other than D-Nice's they're at best an educated guess at accuracy.
Edited by Schwa - 2/4/13 at 3:48pm
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post #8744 of 9472
2/4/13 at 4:49pm
Where can I find his settings?
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post #8745 of 9472
2/4/13 at 4:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

A lower gamma setting should fix it.

FWIW, D-Nice's settings might give you a good starting point but since there can be substantial panel-to-panel variances, using them is far from a true "calibration." Too many people think that D-Nice's settings are the last word, but for any set other than D-Nice's they're at best an educated guess at accuracy.
Of course that could be said of any settings that you get on the internet. Since he is a respected calibrator I would rate his at a little better than "an educated guess at accuracy" though.
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post #8746 of 9472
2/4/13 at 5:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Of course that could be said of any settings that you get on the internet. Since he is a respected calibrator I would rate his at a little better than "an educated guess at accuracy" though.

I'm not familiar with the extent of panel-to-panel variances on the ST50 series but if it's anything like the Samsung D7000 series, using settings that work for one set, no matter who arrived at and posted them, is a lottery at best. Chances of them being wrong are bigger than chances of them being right.
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post #8747 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Of course that could be said of any settings that you get on the internet. Since he is a respected calibrator I would rate his at a little better than "an educated guess at accuracy" though.
Read my post again. I have no doubt that his calibration is exactly 100% spot-on for the TV he calibrated. But taking those settings and applying them to any ol' ST50? I bet even D-Nice would tell you that, at best, that's a good starting point.
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post #8748 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

I'm not familiar with the extent of panel-to-panel variances on the ST50 series but if it's anything like the Samsung D7000 series, using settings that work for one set, no matter who arrived at and posted them, is a lottery at best. Chances of them being wrong are bigger than chances of them being right.
+1. This is exactly the point I was trying to make.
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post #8749 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:08pm
They had a GT at the Best Buy Magnolia Center that had an awful green hue to it that almost spooked me off the Panasonic, but I pulled the trigger on a ST50 last night after Best Buy sold out and it’s freakin’ gorgeous! I just have some calibration settings I found online dialed in right now, but it looks pretty amazing! My first ever plasma. I’ve got the disc burned off to run for the break in, but watching some full screen Blu-ray right now and it’s rich!

Thanks for putting up with my questions. I think I’m going to be exceptionally happy! I needed to cut out the all night news channels anyway and get some proper sleep.
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post #8750 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

Brightness should never go over 60, somewhere between 50-60 is normal. I'm not sure where you went wrong during calibration.

I just picked up my 65ST50 and have it set to Custom - 80 contrast - 80 brightness - 46 color - 0 tint - 0 sharp - 2 warm looks just fine.
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post #8751 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelie View Post

I just picked up my 65ST50 and have it set to Custom - 80 contrast - 80 brightness - 46 color - 0 tint - 0 sharp - 2 warm looks just fine.

It will look fine with certain content, but I can almost guarantee you're washing out blacks and dark colors with those settings.
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post #8752 of 9472
2/4/13 at 6:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntotheBlue View Post

Now with that said, when watching 3D content (Tangled) I first noticed the problem when you see the tower out in the field for the first time...at first the scene is bright but the tower is still dark in color. ANYTHING that is a dark gray or brown in color while watching 3D suffers from cross-talk, it literally looks like portions of the picture are out of focus (not in a pleasing photographic way, but the OMG let this scene change kind of way). Once the tower is lit, then the 3D adjusts and its perfect. I'm not well versed on how active 3D tech works but its pretty obvious that the glasses are constantly re-focusing similar to contrast or phase detection that a camera does (and like a camera is harder to lock focus when the subject is poorly lit). Now why do I guess this? Increasing the overall TV brightness so that the darker shades are now brighter did lessen the cross-talk slightly in those darker areas when compared to the exact same scene with correct brightness levels. So now that alleviates some of the problems with cross talk in dark shades...but blacks will still always suck.

Long story short, just about every other scene makes me want to yell "Focus!". Trust me, I get when something is supposed to be in or out of focus to draw your eyes to what is in focus...but this cross-talk is literally jumping out at the screen at me and distracts me from what I should be focusing on.

Bumping this old post to ask similar questions. Light/dark contrast has been an absolute nightmare for me in 3D. Creature from the Black Lagoon is absolutely unwatchable in 3D because the entire movie is dark/light contrast because of the B&W photography. It is a mess of cross talk. I've tested Immortals, Hotel Transylvania, Men in Black 3, and more. All of them had some form of cross talk when contrasting edges appeared. The only real winners so far have been Finding Nemo and Piranha 3DD. Those are very bright films.

So, has anyone else had this issue and found a fix? I continued on in the thread from that post and no one seemed to have any answers. I've used the official Panasonic glasses and Samsung pairs. The issue is there with both.

Oh, and for those wondering, the 30fps gaming issues I had earlier in this thread? It still exists, but I've adjusted and my mind treats it like any other motion blur now. Not my favorite method of motion "blur," but I've grown used to it.
Edited by Gamereviewgod - 2/4/13 at 7:41pm
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post #8753 of 9472
2/4/13 at 8:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

I'm not familiar with the extent of panel-to-panel variances on the ST50 series but if it's anything like the Samsung D7000 series, using settings that work for one set, no matter who arrived at and posted them, is a lottery at best. Chances of them being wrong are bigger than chances of them being right.
Of course they are gonna be wrong. If by wrong you mean not perfect.
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post #8754 of 9472
2/4/13 at 8:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

Read my post again. I have no doubt that his calibration is exactly 100% spot-on for the TV he calibrated. But taking those settings and applying them to any ol' ST50? I bet even D-Nice would tell you that, at best, that's a good starting point.
Read my post again. Im sure that DNice would say that they are only a good starting point also. But I doubt that he would tell you that his settings are "little better than an educated guess at best" for the accuracy of your settings. That's my point. A lot of people have used them and been very satisfied with the results. Are they perfect for every set? Of course not. Again, the same can be said of any settings that you get off of the internet.
Edited by Bond 007 - 2/4/13 at 8:20pm
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post #8755 of 9472
2/4/13 at 8:29pm
Accepted delivery of my replacement 55ST50 today from Ceva. No physical damage to the box or TV. The delivery guys were very accommodating (unlike the Pilot Shipping guys) and let me run through my checklist. I left the TV in the bottom portion of the box (kind of wish I didn't) and ran the slides and the buzzing seemed minimal and less than my first ST50.

After they left I set it up on the stand and started the slides and right away I noticed the buzzing was louder than it had been when inside the bottom part of the box. Wth! The box and packing materials must have dampened the buzzing. I moved the TV into the room I plan on running the slides and started the slides again. The buzzing seems just as loud as the first ST50 maybe slightly less.

Either I have super mutant hearing (X-Men sign me up), I am unlucky, or this is just the way it is with the 2012 panels - possibly a combination of all three - lol. In any case I don't really want to go through ordering another so I will run the slides and then use some test content to see if there are improvements or worsening in other areas, particularly vertical streaks (DSE) when the camera pans on a sold background, e.g. soccer/football fields, hockey rinks, cloudy or blue skies. Amazon was cool enough to let me hold onto the original ST50 for 30 days so I will choose the winner.

As far as the buzzing is concerned I may try placing a wall rug or something similar behind the TV to see if that helps. I also might call Panasonic and have them come and try tightening the screws on certain circuit boards to see if that helps.

The TV is a December 2012 build.
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post #8756 of 9472
2/4/13 at 9:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Of course they are gonna be wrong. If by wrong you mean not perfect.
.

By wrong I mean no closer to the standard a calibrator targets. It could just as easily go the other way and unless you measure it, you won't know which it is.
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post #8757 of 9472
2/4/13 at 10:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by willieconway View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Of course they are gonna be wrong. If by wrong you mean not perfect.
.

By wrong I mean no closer to the standard a calibrator targets. It could just as easily go the other way and unless you measure it, you won't know which it is.
D-Nice indicated that the Pioneer Kuro displays could, by factory standards and his observation, vary by as much as 5%. In that case, his settings would put you in that 5% range as a starting point. I don't know what he has to say about other models that he has calibrated for publication, but my guess is that the range would be similar or D-Nice wouldn't bother.

In other words, try any list of settings and judge for yourself. They are all easily reversable. Debating their value has little value. wink.gif
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post #8758 of 9472
2/5/13 at 2:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gamereviewgod View Post

Bumping this old post to ask similar questions. Light/dark contrast has been an absolute nightmare for me in 3D. Creature from the Black Lagoon is absolutely unwatchable in 3D because the entire movie is dark/light contrast because of the B&W photography. It is a mess of cross talk. I've tested Immortals, Hotel Transylvania, Men in Black 3, and more. All of them had some form of cross talk when contrasting edges appeared. The only real winners so far have been Finding Nemo and Piranha 3DD. Those are very bright films.

So, has anyone else had this issue and found a fix? I continued on in the thread from that post and no one seemed to have any answers. I've used the official Panasonic glasses and Samsung pairs. The issue is there with both.

Oh, and for those wondering, the 30fps gaming issues I had earlier in this thread? It still exists, but I've adjusted and my mind treats it like any other motion blur now. Not my favorite method of motion "blur," but I've grown used to it.

It sounds like crosstalk that you are experiencing. You could try 48hz mode, it helps on my ST30. The only disadvantage is possible flicker due to the lower refresh rate. 48hz in 3D is better than 48hz in 2D as far as flicker is concerned. When playing a 3D movie set your BD player to 24hz then the tv. This setting allows the green pixels more time to shut off, they're the slowest in that regard.
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post #8759 of 9472
2/5/13 at 3:47am
Can anyone tell me where to find D-Nice's settings?
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post #8760 of 9472
2/5/13 at 3:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

D-Nice indicated that the Pioneer Kuro displays could, by factory standards and his observation, vary by as much as 5%. In that case, his settings would put you in that 5% range as a starting point. I don't know what he has to say about other models that he has calibrated for publication, but my guess is that the range would be similar or D-Nice wouldn't bother.

In other words, try any list of settings and judge for yourself. They are all easily reversable. Debating their value has little value. wink.gif
Agreed. And that was my point all along. There is no sense in bashing one set over another. It was the "little better than an educated guess" part that bothered me. As you said he wouldn't bother publishing something like that. You might as well just use the 2011 Panasonic plasma settings without bothering with a calibration. That would be an educated guess. But I'm sure that I am making too much of this.
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