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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 302

post #9031 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chancellor Todd View Post

I'm in the same boat. So assuming we use the D-Nice slides and settings for 100 hours, how do we "break in" the TV after that? Just watching varied content in full screen for another 100 hours? And is there a "D-Nice for Dummies" thread/FAQ anywhere? I have the slides and slideshow settings, but there doesn't seem to be any basic instructions for how to actually start the slideshow, whether or not you can have the television on for 100 consecutive hours (as opposed to shutting it off for a bit to cool down), etc.
There is indeed an FAQ on page 3 of the ST50 Settings thread at HDJ.
post #9032 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdsnapBryan View Post

Gotcha cool. It has arrived, it's sitting on my floor going through the slides while my other TV is up on the stand. Too lazy to put it up there until 100 hours to see if the viewing angle is good. I was judging it mostly from looking down at the screen, it's good to hear that filter mostly affects looking at the at the TV from abve.

If you haven't already, take off the plastic film on the bezel. Leaving it on could adversely affect the aging process due to uneven heat build-up around the bezel.
post #9033 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

If you haven't already, take off the plastic film on the bezel. Leaving it on could adversely affect the aging process due to uneven heat build-up around the bezel.
Seriously? I think thats the first Ive heard that. I know you should take it off but I was under the impression that it was because the heat would basically bake it on to the bezel and make it very difficult to get off. It does have a minute amount of adhesive on it.
post #9034 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chancellor Todd View Post

I'm in the same boat. So assuming we use the D-Nice slides and settings for 100 hours, how do we "break in" the TV after that?
Just to be clear, D-Nice has one group of settings for running the slides right out of the box. After doing that, you enter D-Nice's calibrated settings for normal viewing. If you've already been using your TV for normal viewing then forget the slides. The slides are only relevant in the first 100 hours of use on a new TV that D-Nice has calibrated and then posted settings.
Quote:
Just watching varied content in full screen for another 100 hours?
A lot of plasma owners have done the following:

Click here.
Quote:
whether or not you can have the television on for 100 consecutive hours (as opposed to shutting it off for a bit to cool down)
You can do it any way you want. It doesn't make any difference to the TV. The most dangerous time for any electronic device is when it's powered on and cool. eek.gif
post #9035 of 9972
DNice also has a set of settings that you can use that are "out of the box" if you choose not to use the slides or find out about them too late. They are literally right underneath the other set and he explains this very clearly.
post #9036 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

Seriously? I think thats the first Ive heard that. I know you should take it off but I was under the impression that it was because the heat would basically bake it on to the bezel and make it very difficult to get off. It does have a minute amount of adhesive on it.
I agree, this sounds like made-up pseudo-science. It's not like the acrylic is a vastly better heat conductor than the plastic sticker that's covering it. Covering the plastic bezel with a little bit more plastic shouldn't affect its ability to dissipate heat. Someone wasn't paying attention in their heat & mass transfer course.

Now, if the bezel were made of aluminum, and you covered it with an asbestos sticker...

Man, the things we read around here!
post #9037 of 9972
"Man, the things we read around here!"

Yes. Seriously guys, take a step back and really think about how much work you're putting into this. It's not necessary, and it couldn't be worth it.
post #9038 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdsnapBryan View Post

I'm a little worried about the vertical viewing angle of my ST50. My viewing angle is 6.5 feet away and 2 feet below the center of the television, since I lay on the floor to watch TV. It doesn't sound like a drastic angle... but I hope it will be ok.
Viewing from that angle below the TV should be fine.
Its angles above the TV (like standing up if the set's height is set for viewing from sitting on the couch) where you would see a significant reduced contrast.
post #9039 of 9972
Since I'm already going through a plasma "preparation phase", I want to make sure I do it right and do everything that is recommended. I apologize if this has been asked already but honestly, I didn't go back and read every post in this thread... redface.gif

I just got a new ST50 a few days ago and started running the D-Nice slides right out of the box. It is about halfway through and has been running constantly. I plan to leave it running through the suggested 100 hours.

So my question is... once the 100 hours is up, should I also run the "break-in" DVD? If it is recommended to also run that DVD for 16 hours, should I change the TV settings to what D-Nice posted before running the DVD or after (or does it even matter?).

Thanks and great information here by the way!
post #9040 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post

Since I'm already going through a plasma "preparation phase", I want to make sure I do it right and do everything that is recommended. I apologize if this has been asked already but honestly, I didn't go back and read every post in this thread... redface.gif

I just got a new ST50 a few days ago and started running the D-Nice slides right out of the box. It is about halfway through and has been running constantly. I plan to leave it running through the suggested 100 hours.

So my question is... once the 100 hours is up, should I also run the "break-in" DVD? If it is recommended to also run that DVD for 16 hours, should I change the TV settings to what D-Nice posted before running the DVD or after (or does it even matter?).

Thanks and great information here by the way!

You don't need to run anything after the 100 hours. You can use a calibration disk after you input the settings if you want though.
post #9041 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post

Since I'm already going through a plasma "preparation phase", I want to make sure I do it right and do everything that is recommended. I apologize if this has been asked already but honestly, I didn't go back and read every post in this thread... redface.gif

I just got a new ST50 a few days ago and started running the D-Nice slides right out of the box. It is about halfway through and has been running constantly. I plan to leave it running through the suggested 100 hours.

So my question is... once the 100 hours is up, should I also run the "break-in" DVD? If it is recommended to also run that DVD for 16 hours, should I change the TV settings to what D-Nice posted before running the DVD or after (or does it even matter?).

Thanks and great information here by the way!
I dont know what the break in dvd is. Most likely you wont need it if you are using the slides to prep. After the 100 hrs plug in DNice settings and then if you want to use the break in dvd feel free.
post #9042 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post


So my question is... once the 100 hours is up, should I also run the "break-in" DVD? If it is recommended to also run that DVD for 16 hours, should I change the TV settings to what D-Nice posted before running the DVD or after (or does it even matter?).

Thanks and great information here by the way!
I don't know what "break-in" disk you are referring to, but after you have entered D-Nice's calibrated settings you are free to adjust them to your taste using a "calibration" disk. D-NIce points out that his setting are a starting point, and no substitute for a quality professional calibration.

The only "break-in" concerns that I have are suggested in this post.

Click here for the answer to the question that you haven't ask yet.

wink.gif
post #9043 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSpectre88 View Post

You don't need to run anything after the 100 hours. You can use a calibration disk after you input the settings if you want though.

Now I just need to start looking for a good calibration disk. Where did you get yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

I dont know what the break in dvd is. Most likely you wont need it if you are using the slides to prep. After the 100 hrs plug in DNice settings and then if you want to use the break in dvd feel free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I don't know what "break-in" disk you are referring to, but after you have entered D-Nice's calibrated settings you are free to adjust them to your taste using a "calibration" disk. D-NIce points out that his setting are a starting point, and no substitute for a quality professional calibration.

The only "break-in" concerns that I have are suggested in this post.

Click here for the answer to the question that you haven't ask yet.

wink.gif

Thanks for the responses. I read about the "break-in DVD" in two threads. This is the first thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/949107/master-burn-in-ir-break-in-thread-part-ii-all-posts-here-only

And this is the thread with a download for the "break-in DVD": http://www.avsforum.com/t/583089/download-break-in-dvd-svcd#post_6230381

Looking back at when the threads were created... maybe this isn't needed for 2012 models or newer?
Edited by SoIcanSearch - 3/3/13 at 3:42pm
post #9044 of 9972
I used AVS HD 709 but I really didn't need to change much of anything. I just wanted to be sure the settings worked for my TV. I think I turned contrast a point or two higher, and maybe brightness one point lower, but everything else I left the same. You can probably skip it entirely, it's better to be used when you have no settings to start with.
post #9045 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post


Thanks for the responses. I read about the "break-in DVD" in two threads. This is the first thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/949107/master-burn-in-ir-break-in-thread-part-ii-all-posts-here-only

And this is the thread with a download for the "break-in DVD": http://www.avsforum.com/t/583089/download-break-in-dvd-svcd#post_6230381

Looking back at when the threads were created... maybe this isn't needed for 2012 models or newer?
Those threads are Part 1 and Part 2. The Part 2 thread is a good place to discuss IR and Burn-in, and it's still active. I gave you the Reader's Digest version of how most people control IR and avoid Burn-in.

The break-in disk, referred to in Part 1, is either identical to or very similar to the one suggested by D-Nice. The difference is that D-Nice correctly points out that it's neither a protection against Burn-in or is it a general method for breaking in a display. Breaking in a display is what happens when you use it. wink.gif

D-Nice uses the slides for a standard amount of equal aging for all pixels on a new display so that the initial rapid aging will slow down before he calibrates the display. Using his settings and his procedure gets anyone close to, but not exactly on his calibration.

Over time any display will drift so that the calibrated settings no longer get the same results. Using the TV a 100 hours or more before a calibration makes any given calibration's results last longer. Our display had a full calibration at 900 hour, a touch up at 2,300 hours, and a full calibration just past 5,000 hours.
Edited by htwaits - 3/3/13 at 6:29pm
post #9046 of 9972
ST50 - internet

How do I know where is the focus (cursor) when I go to internet mode?

Spend like an hour before realizing that the beeping heard on the remote was actually moving the cursor. Beeping is almost as if you did a mistake.
Visually its hard to see where is the cursor is before pressing ok.

Was trying to do into youtube menu .. but it was basically trial and error after I realized about the beeps.
post #9047 of 9972
Looking for help to find the best connections for my new setup. I’m currently running the D-Nice slides so I’m in planning mode right now. wink.gif

This is my equipment:
  • Sony 40” XBR4 (existing TV from 2006)
  • Panasonic 50" TV TC-P50ST50 (my new TV replacing the Sony)
  • Panasonic 3D Blu-Ray Disc Player DMP-BDT220CP
  • Comcast Motorola HD Cable Box (HDMI)
  • Onkyo Receiver TX-SR605 (7 year old receiver that handles HDMI but not 3D or ARC)

With my existing Sony XBR4, I have a single HDMI cable from the TV to the receiver, and the blu-ray player and cable box each have an HDMI cable to the receiver. The receiver has to be turned on for the device to work (cable or blu-ray). Set up like so:
Sony TV<--(HDMI)-->Onkyo Receiver<--(2xHDMI)-->Blu-ray player and Cable box

Since the receiver does not support 3D, I need to run HDMI from the blu-ray player to the TV directly if I want to watch 3D movies. To get sound to the receiver for movies, I’m thinking about running a Toslink cable. This is what I think may work but hoping someone can chime in if this will work or if there is another good solution without upgrading the receiver.
  1. VIDEO: Panny TV<--(2xHDMI)--> Blu-ray player (Port 1) and Cable box (Port 3?)
  2. SOUND: Panny TV<--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver

By the way, thanks htwaits for the recommendations. smile.gif
post #9048 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post

  1. VIDEO: Panny TV<--(2xHDMI)--> Blu-ray player (Port 1) and Cable box (Port 3?)
  2. SOUND: Panny TV<--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver

By the way, thanks htwaits for the recommendations. smile.gif
If I'm not missing something, your setup should work. Because of copyright restrictions you will get stereo back from youir TV. If you do Toslink from the Blu-ray player to the AVR you'll get core lossy 5.1 surround when it's available. That's true for your cable box too.

If you gave up 3D you could get Blu-ray lossless audio from your player to the AVR as LPCM audio. One way to get Blu-ray lossless audio and 3D would be to upgrade your AVR. If you upgraded your Panasonic Blu-ray player for one with two HDMI outputs (Panasonic, Sony, OPPO), that would work too.
post #9049 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

If I'm not missing something, your setup should work. Because of copyright restrictions you will get stereo back from your TV. If you do Toslink from the Blu-ray player to the AVR you'll get core lossy 5.1 surround when it's available. That's true for your cable box too.

If you gave up 3D you could get Blu-ray lossless audio from your player to the AVR as LPCM audio. One way to get Blu-ray lossless audio and 3D would be to upgrade your AVR. If you upgraded your Panasonic Blu-ray player for one with two HDMI outputs (Panasonic, Sony, OPPO), that would work too.

Thanks, this helps a lot. I’ll start looking for a new AVR but in the meantime, I think I’ll go with this solution and forego 3D (don’t have 3D glasses now anyway and like the Blu-ray lossless audio).
  1. Panny TV<--(HDMI Port 1)--> Cable box<--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver (will only use receiver for sound for some cable movies and sports)
  2. Panny TV<--(HDMI Port 3)--> Onkyo Receiver<--(HDMI)--> Blu-ray player
post #9050 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoIcanSearch View Post

Thanks, this helps a lot. I’ll start looking for a new AVR but in the meantime, I think I’ll go with this solution and forego 3D (don’t have 3D glasses now anyway and like the Blu-ray lossless audio).
  1. Panny TV<--(HDMI Port 1)--> Cable box<--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver (will only use receiver for sound for some cable movies and sports)
  2. Panny TV<--(HDMI Port 3)--> Onkyo Receiver<--(HDMI)--> Blu-ray player
You can switch back and forth. Just hook it up both ways and access whatever you choose and when. If it is 2d you can get lossless and if it is 3 d you can get 3d without lossless. Its not like DD 5.1 sounds bad. Likely you couldnt tell the difference between lossless and lossy anyway.
post #9051 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bond 007 View Post

You can switch back and forth. Just hook it up both ways and access whatever you choose and when. If it is 2d you can get lossless and if it is 3 d you can get 3d without lossless. Its not like DD 5.1 sounds bad. Likely you couldnt tell the difference between lossless and lossy anyway.

Hmmm, I guess this would work then:

1.Panny TV <--(HDMI Port 1)--> Cable box <--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver (will only use receiver for sound for some cable movies and sports)
2.Panny TV <--(HDMI Port 3)--> Blu-ray player <--(Toslink)--> Onkyo Receiver (will use receiver for sound)

This way I don't lose 3D capability and still get good audio (at least up to the limitations of Toslink).

Sorry to get off topic with all of this but thanks for help. Now just one more day of waiting for the D-Nice slides. smile.gif
post #9052 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by wattheF View Post

Yeah, my GT50 started developing those issues before it broke too (as did my last Samsung plasma). I was hoping it was a fluke but now you are the second person to mention the issue with a 2012 Panasonic. Hmm...it is a bit worrying cuz I plan on getting a 2013 Panasonic plasma to replace it.

Anyone else see the green/pink bands or blobs on thier sets? It is really only noticeable on white screens. It easily shows up while watching hockey.

My two cents : I have had NO issues watching hockey on my st50, no blobs, no blinking or anything else distracting. just saying
post #9053 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Just to be clear, D-Nice has one group of settings for running the slides right out of the box. After doing that, you enter D-Nice's calibrated settings for normal viewing. If you've already been using your TV for normal viewing then forget the slides. The slides are only relevant in the first 100 hours of use on a new TV that D-Nice has calibrated and then posted settings.
A lot of plasma owners have done the following:

Click here.
You can do it any way you want. It doesn't make any difference to the TV. The most dangerous time for any electronic device is when it's powered on and cool. eek.gif

Thanks, everyone, for the replies. I found the [URL=http://www.**************.com/display-settings-calibrations-reviews/12986-2012-panasonic-settings-issues-thread.html]FAQ on the HDJ forum[/URL] and the answers here helped explain a lot of things. So once the slideshow has been run, your best advice htwaits, is to "mix it up and enjoy?" I think why some people might be confused is because D-Nice says "This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used as Break-in, Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention," which implies there's some other important step that has to be taken to prevent those things.
post #9054 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chancellor Todd View Post

So once the slideshow has been run, your best advice htwaits, is to "mix it up and enjoy?"
Right. I never recommend doing anything that I wouldn't do. wink.gif

Quote:
[I think why some people might be confused is because D-Nice says "This procedure is NOT designed nor recommended to be used as Break-in, Image Retention and/or Burn-in prevention," which implies there's some other important step that has to be taken to prevent those things.
Mostly people who don't get it just ignore that statement. D-Nice is very direct as a person. If he thought there was something specific people should do with their plasma displays, he would just say so. What he wants to make clear is that his procedure has one and only one purpose. And that's to get the most possible out of the settings from his calibration of the same model display.

Enjoy. biggrin.gif
post #9055 of 9972
Whew that was a long 100 hours. Felt faster on my S2,maybe because I was green with ignorance and didn't know how good the picture was going to look so I was patient. Watching Samsara right now with D-nice's settings, everything looks great from what I can tell, although I don't have a well trained eye. It looks less warm than my S2 which is nice cause my S2 was v. warm.

Does the Disney WOW disc come with a color sheet to look through? I bought the blueray essentials and it came with one, though the Disney WOW disc seems more recommended here so I might get that because I lost the Essential blueray.

Does anyone have game mode recommendations yet? I will probably use the WOW disc to try and come up with something...
post #9056 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Right. I never recommend doing anything that I wouldn't do. wink.gif
That doesnt narrow it down much. rolleyes.gif
post #9057 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdsnapBryan View Post

Whew that was a long 100 hours. Felt faster on my S2,maybe because I was green with ignorance and didn't know how good the picture was going to look so I was patient. Watching Samsara right now with D-nice's settings, everything looks great from what I can tell, although I don't have a well trained eye. It looks less warm than my S2 which is nice cause my S2 was v. warm.

Does the Disney WOW disc come with a color sheet to look through? I bought the blueray essentials and it came with one, though the Disney WOW disc seems more recommended here so I might get that because I lost the Essential blueray.

Does anyone have game mode recommendations yet? I will probably use the WOW disc to try and come up with something...
Yes. The WOW disc comes with a blue film.
post #9058 of 9972
CRAZY QUESTION--- I hesitate to even post it here but figured what the hell? I can't seem to get any feedback anywhere else. May as well see if anyone has experienced this and could give me advice. So I am having a problem with my eyes watching certain content on my 50" st50. I got the tv 3 months ago or so and had an old school crt 32" before this so obviously night and day.

I can't seem to watch ANY widescreen content without getting a headache. Which sucks as most movies use this format now. Also lower quality material 480 and such and basically all my old avi files give me the headache as well. Even some higher quality full screen stuff 780/1080 affects me this way, but this is rare and I can't seem to determine which content gives me this reaction. Mostly I am ok with 720 and 1080 full screen stuff --tv shows downloaded or FULL SCREEN movies and regular tv content (I do not have cable just an antennae to pick up local stations). It is strange and does not seem to be the fault of my eyes and this tv or the closeness to it (I am about 8-9 ft away) as I CAN watch some content with no ill affects whatsoever.

This really sucks as I love the tv but instead of broadening what I can watch getting this tv has actually limited what I can view dramatically. Any thoughts? Anyone heard of this problem?
post #9059 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by rojimmy View Post

You may need to put some effort into a clearer description of what causes your headaches.
Quote:
I can't seem to watch ANY widescreen content without getting a headache.
Here you are saying that ANY source that fills your screen from side to side will cause headaches.
Quote:
Also lower quality material 480 and such and basically all my old avi files give me the headache as well.
When you add this information that pretty much means that all source material cause you to have headaches.
Quote:
Even some higher quality full screen stuff 780/1080 affects me this way, but this is rare and I can't seem to determine which content gives me this reaction.
Now it seem that it's SD sources of all aspect ratios that cause headaches -- HD sources not so much.
Quote:
Mostly I am ok with 720 and 1080 full screen stuff --tv shows downloaded or FULL SCREEN movies and regular tv content (I do not have cable just an antennae to pick up local stations).
Now you are OK with all HD sources.

You don't mention Blu-ray movies or DVD movies. Do you watch either of those sources?
Quote:
It is strange and does not seem to be the fault of my eyes and this tv or the closeness to it (I am about 8-9 ft away) as I CAN watch some content with no ill affects whatsoever.
How big is your screen -- 50" or 65" or what? Are you now saying that you can watch some SDTV without headaches?

The only reason I've pointed out the different ways that you've described what causes your headaches is that I can't figure out precisely when you get headaches. The only thing I can think of is that you went from a small screen to a very large one but you are still sitting at the same location in relation to the screen. That's not much of a theory but it's the only one I have.
post #9060 of 9972
Can anyone tell me if the "24p Cinema Smoother Fucntion" detailed in this pic is just the "24p Direct in" setting found in the advanced picture settings menu?




The photo is from panasonic.com.
I'm trying to figure out if the GT50 has a smoothing function that the ST50 does not. I'm trying to reduce visible judder on my ST50.

This review is what got my interest:

"The GT50's main step-up over the ST50 comes in the form of two THX picture presets for 2D and a third for 3D. It also has a couple more esoteric PQ-related extras, namely double the "shades of gradation," a 24p smooth mode (not to be confused with a higher refresh rate)," facial retouch" and "pure image creation."

Is there a feautre on the GT50 that the ST50 does not have in relation to judder smoothing?
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