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Official Panasonic ST50 Series Discussion Thread [No Street Price Talk] - Page 313

post #9361 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by joon82 View Post

Anybody have working config for Playstation3 Media server?
I've been trying to get DLNA to work but can't get it to work with TV(55ST50).
Only way I can get to work is by streaming file from my galaxy s3.

Also what is the best DLNA media player for this tv? I might as well get media player if I cant get it to work.
roku? playstation3? WD?
Need something that will play all media files without transcoding.

Don't know the answer to your DLNA question but I use a WDtv Live & it is awesome. Plays everything I throw at it & was very cheap to purchase. I play mkv's from bluray on it with no issues. mind you I don't stream I use an attached HD with it but thats just me...

Cam
post #9362 of 9972
All i know is that i have 2 panasonics plasmas that converts in two panaproblems.very disapointing.
post #9363 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBR View Post

All i know is that i have 2 panasonics plasmas that converts in two panaproblems.very disapointing.

Amen to that! Panasonic quality is not what it once was. Anxious to see how they handle my situation tomorrow.
post #9364 of 9972
Speak for yourself. My pannys are working perfect.
You have like 20 posts complaining about Panasonic. Stop trolling.
Edited by hotskins - 4/14/13 at 3:18pm
post #9365 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotskins View Post

Speak for yourself. My pannys are working perfect.
You have like 20 posts complaining about Panasonic. Stop trolling.

No sympathy for me, eh? 2 new Panasonic TV's have crapped out on me in the last 2 weeks and you expect me to remain quiet about it? Manufacturers love guys like yourself. I'm just venting as I haven't got much else to do this weekend. Weather sucks outside, and I haven't got a tv to watch. But I am getting good at re-packaging Panasonic Tv's in their original boxes!!!
post #9366 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by atc250r View Post

I got a new UT50 as a loaner TV while my 3 month old 55ST50 is in the shop awaiting a new "A" board that is backordered 1 month. Yesterday, the UT50 turned itself off and will not turn back on. The LED light flashes 7 times. My ST50 lasted less than 3 months, and this UT50 lasted less than 2 weeks. Panasonic sucks, imo. I will call the service center tomorrow and tell them how much I admire Panasonic.
Who's service center is working on your ST50 while it waits for it's A board? Panasonic should have a better supply of parts.

Who provided the "new" UT50? Is the UT50 literally new out of the box or might it have been a returned set?

A certain percentage of new boards will fail. They are most likely to fail while the device is young. That's why we all want a one year warranty for electronic components. Some people buy with credit cards that provide for an extra year of warranty, or they buy from Costco where the extra year is included along with a 90 day return period. Now if your TV wore out in ninety days, that would be news. wink.gif

I don't own a Panasonic, but I do a lot of reading in owner's threads for different displays. Given that AVS is a magnet for folks with problems, I haven't noticed that Panasonic sets are having any more failures that those from other companies.
post #9367 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Who's service center is working on your ST50 while it waits for it's A board? Panasonic should have a better supply of parts.

The only authorized Panasonic service center in my nearest city. Also happens to be a division of the retail store I bought it from.

Who provided the "new" UT50? Is the UT50 literally new out of the box or might it have been a returned set?

The dealer I bought from, and whose service center is repairing my St50. The UT50 appears to be brand new, as the manuals, power cord, and remote were all in sealed bags in the original box.

A certain percentage of new boards will fail. They are most likely to fail while the device is young. That's why we all want a one year warranty for electronic components. Some people buy with credit cards that provide for an extra year of warranty, or they buy from Costco where the extra year is included along with a 90 day return period. Now if your TV wore out in ninety days, that would be news. wink.gif

That's good info to know that if boards fail, its often when they are young. And I did buy with my credit card, which does double the factory warranty.

I don't own a Panasonic, but I do a lot of reading in owner's threads for different displays. Given that AVS is a magnet for folks with problems, I haven't noticed that Panasonic sets are having any more failures that those from other companies.

I hope that's the case. I'm not feeling too confident right about now, though! I sure wasn't expecting any problems when I bought Panasonic.
post #9368 of 9972
Well so far since they replaced the screws/washers I have yet to hear the buzzing. I'll give it a couple of more weeks and see how it goes. So far so good.
post #9369 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by atc250r View Post

I hope that's the case. I'm not feeling too confident right about now, though! I sure wasn't expecting any problems when I bought Panasonic.
Did you notice the post from a repair guy in the thread where you posted about your current trouble? His experience didn't support the idea that better reliability can be found outside of Japan. That' s been my impression. I've owned several Sony CRT TVs, one Samsung DLP HDTV, and one Pioneer Plasma HDTV. I tend to lean toward Japan for reliability, but I don't have any more than subjective experience to rely on.
post #9370 of 9972
Just a side comment: I've "discovered" that increasing the AGC during 3D viewing makes a noticleable difference in the overal brightness of the picture, I bumped it up to about 11 and was able to push about 32 fTL whereas before I was more around 20 with contrast at 100 and AGC at 0. Has made 3D viewing a bit more pleasureable, especially during the day.
post #9371 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

I thought I would post (re-post?) my calibration reports,.....


I thought I'd add mine as well and share the calibration settings for my 65ST50. A big Thank you to the esteemed D-Nice for a fantastic job and for taking the time to explain everything clearly and patiently to someone who's quite a novice and had no idea what to expect on his first calibration.

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Pre Calibration Report (Custom).pdf 137k .pdf file

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Post Calibration Report (Custom).pdf 134k .pdf file

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Post Calibration Report (Custom 3D).pdf 132k .pdf file



2D Settings:

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 94
Brightness: 57
Color 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings:

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +4
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +12
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -4

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Aspect Adjustments:

Screen Format: Full
HD Size: Size 2
H Size: Size 1 (greyed out)
Zoom Adjustments (greyed out)

HDMI Settings (all at default mode)

Advanced Picture:

3D Y/C filter: Off (greyed out)
Color Matrix: HD (greyed out)
Block NR: Off (greyed out)
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: Off (greyed out)
24p Direct in: 60Hz

I still see a somewhat soft picture on all my OTA channels using these settings but that has proven to be a de-interlacing issue on all the models from last year. With these settings though I've seen quite an improvement and is my belief that this is as good as it gets. By all accounts, the ST60 line from this year has addressed this shortcoming. But boy oh boy Blu rays are something to behold with these settings on my set. I won't guarantee the same results for everyone else but hopefully you'll find it an improvement.


3D Settings:

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 55
Color: 43
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt: Off (greyed out)
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings (3D):

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +7
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +15
W/B low R: +12
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -4
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Aspect Adjustments (3D):

Screen Format: Full (greyed out)
HD size: Size 2 (greyed out)
H size: Size 1 (greyed out)
Zoom Adjustments (greyed out)

HDMI settings (3D): All at default

Advanced Picture (3D):

3D Y/C filter: Off (greyed out)
Color Matrix: HD (greyed out)
Block NR: Off (greyed out)
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Off (greyed out)
24p Direct in: 60Hz

Enjoy :biggrin.gif
Edited by Chere - 4/16/13 at 2:02am
post #9372 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post

I thought I'd add mine as well and share the calibration settings for my 65ST50. A big Thank you to the esteemed D-Nice for a fantastic job and for taking the time to explain everything clearly and patiently to someone who's quite a novice and had no idea what to expect on his first calibration.

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Pre Calibration Report (Custom).pdf 137k .pdf file

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Post Calibration Report (Custom).pdf 134k .pdf file

Chere Sabe's TC-P65ST50 Post Calibration Report (Custom 3D).pdf 132k .pdf file



2D Settings:

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 94
Brightness: 57
Color 47
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt: Off
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings:

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +4
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +12
W/B low R: +10
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -4

Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel brightness: Mid
Contour Emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Aspect Adjustments:

Screen Format: Full
HD Size: Size 2
H Size: Size 1 (greyed out)
Zoom Adjustments (greyed out)

HDMI Settings (all at default mode)

Advanced Picture:

3D Y/C filter: Off (greyed out)
Color Matrix: HD (greyed out)
Block NR: Off (greyed out)
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 pulldown: Off (greyed out)
24p Direct in: 60Hz

I still see a somewhat soft picture on all my OTA channels using these settings but that has proven to be a de-interlacing issue on all the models from last year. With these settings though I've seen quite an improvement and is my belief that this is as good as it gets. By all accounts, the ST60 line from this year has addressed this shortcoming. But boy oh boy Blu rays are something to behold with these settings on my set. I won't guarantee the same results for everyone else but hopefully you'll find it an improvement.


3D Settings:

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 55
Color: 43
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt: Off (greyed out)
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings (3D):

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +7
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +15
W/B low R: +12
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -4
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0

Aspect Adjustments (3D):

Screen Format: Full (greyed out)
HD size: Size 2 (greyed out)
H size: Size 1 (greyed out)
Zoom Adjustments (greyed out)

HDMI settings (3D): All at default

Advanced Picture (3D):

3D Y/C filter: Off (greyed out)
Color Matrix: HD (greyed out)
Block NR: Off (greyed out)
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Off (greyed out)
24p Direct in: 60Hz

Enjoy :biggrin.gif
Glad to hear you are enjoying your very first calibrated display smile.gif
post #9373 of 9972
Where can I inquire about pro calibrators touring in my area?
post #9374 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post


3D Settings:

Picture Mode: Custom
Contrast: 100
Brightness: 55
Color: 43 (55)
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Color Mgmt: Off (greyed out)
C.A.T.S: Off
Video NR: Off

Pro Settings (3D):

Color Space: Normal
W/B high R: +7 (18)
W/B high G: 0
W/B high B: +15
W/B low R: +12
W/B low G: 0
W/B low B: -4 (4)
Black Extension: 0
Gamma Adjustment: 2.4
Panel Brightness: Mid
Contour emphasis: Off
AGC: 0 (10)

Aspect Adjustments (3D):

Screen Format: Full (greyed out)
HD size: Size 2 (greyed out)
H size: Size 1 (greyed out)
Zoom Adjustments (greyed out)

HDMI settings (3D): All at default

Advanced Picture (3D):

3D Y/C filter: Off (greyed out)
Color Matrix: HD (greyed out)
Block NR: Off (greyed out)
Mosquito NR: Off
Motion Smoother: Off
Black level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Off (greyed out)
24p Direct in: 60Hz

Enjoy :biggrin.gif

These are almost exactly my settings when I calibrated with my iD3 (differences in bold)
post #9375 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaviorMachine View Post

Where can I inquire about pro calibrators touring in my area?

Look in the display calibration reports thread, or follow up with individuals you see listed here (either directly in PM or on their web sites, etc).

For example, Jeff (UMR) at AccuCal lists tour plans and/or the ability to get on his list on his web site.

As near as I can tell, there isn't a central place that tracks all tours, etc, so it's really a "one by one" inquiry.
post #9376 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

These are almost exactly my settings when I calibrated with my iD3 (differences in bold)

The 2D settings were similar to mine, with the obvious differences of:

  • My contrast is a bit lower
  • Jeff found that starting from WARM1 allowed using less extreme W/B adjustments, so my W/B numbers will of course be different, since they have a different starting point when using WAMR1 versus WARM2.


But the end measurements are remarkably similar.

One of the really awesome things (IMO) about this set is how close the colorspace is, even though there isn't a CMS, to the rec709 standard. Heck, just five years ago you had to buy a top of the line Pioneer Kuro to get that color accuracy.

Add to that the ability to dial in grayscale with very little fuss, and it's a killer cost/benefit equation.
post #9377 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Look in the display calibration reports thread, or follow up with individuals you see listed here (either directly in PM or on their web sites, etc).

For example, Jeff (UMR) at AccuCal lists tour plans and/or the ability to get on his list on his web site.

As near as I can tell, there isn't a central place that tracks all tours, etc, so it's really a "one by one" inquiry.

Thank you smile.gif
post #9378 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

The 2D settings were similar to mine, with the obvious differences of:

  • My contrast is a bit lower
  • Jeff found that starting from WARM1 allowed using less extreme W/B adjustments, so my W/B numbers will of course be different, since they have a different starting point when using WAMR1 versus WARM2.


But the end measurements are remarkably similar.

One of the really awesome things (IMO) about this set is how close the colorspace is, even though there isn't a CMS, to the rec709 standard. Heck, just five years ago you had to buy a top of the line Pioneer Kuro to get that color accuracy.

Add to that the ability to dial in grayscale with very little fuss, and it's a killer cost/benefit equation.

Those are actually my 3D settings, but my 2D aren't very different (AGC 0, Color 45, and Contrast 84). I was surpirsed my greyscale didn't seem to need much adjustment with 3D vs. 2D, but it was only off but such a small amount I decided just to leave the W/B controls the same as my 2D settings. My colorspace was almost dead on as you mentioned, very impressive. Sometimes I like to use a wide colorspace for animated stuff like Pixar just to give it a little oversaturation/pop.
post #9379 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

Those are actually my 3D settings, but my 2D aren't very different (AGC 0, Color 45, and Contrast 84). I was surpirsed my greyscale didn't seem to need much adjustment with 3D vs. 2D, but it was only off but such a small amount I decided just to leave the W/B controls the same as my 2D settings. My colorspace was almost dead on as you mentioned, very impressive. Sometimes I like to use a wide colorspace for animated stuff like Pixar just to give it a little oversaturation/pop.

Oh, I was comparing the posted PDF and 2D settings, and should have made that more clear.

Is there a wide colorspace option on these Panny's? I don't have any reason to use it, but I didn't even really realize it was there.
post #9380 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by CheYC View Post

Just a side comment: I've "discovered" that increasing the AGC during 3D viewing makes a noticleable difference in the overal brightness of the picture, I bumped it up to about 11 and was able to push about 32 fTL whereas before I was more around 20 with contrast at 100 and AGC at 0. Has made 3D viewing a bit more pleasureable, especially during the day.

While reading through the threads I found a professional calibrator's settings list that someone posted specifically for 3D I beleive they were posted by nathan_h. These are the setting I'm currently using for 3D. Now I know that every panel is different. I know I should have a pro come by and do my set, but I also know I don't have the $ to be able to afford that. So in my case, as I'm sure many others, I like to "play" around with the settings you guys post and see which ones I like better.wink.gif

While watching Life of Pi (BR 3D) on my 55ST50 I noticed that some scenes were fairly dark (the one that comes to mind is when the tiger is trying to crawl back into the boat after being thrown to the ocean by the storm...sorry I don't have a time reference, but the scene takes place during night time) and I am curious about what exactly this AGC you refer to is and does. I am no expert but I look forward to going home and trying it out. I did notice another poster (CheYC) had his own 3D settings and had this ACG at a 10, but most 3D settings I've found keep it a 0. I will say that to my eyes, COOL1 does seemed brighter and more accurate than either WARM1 or 2 for a 3D source.

I really like this TV. The only thing I'm still trying to dial in is the brightness with a 3D source b/c 3D just seems too dark for me eventhough all viewings have taken place during night time and in a dark controlled room.
Edited by GatorRican - 4/16/13 at 1:48pm
post #9381 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by nathan_h View Post

Oh, I was comparing the posted PDF and 2D settings, and should have made that more clear.

Is there a wide colorspace option on these Panny's? I don't have any reason to use it, but I didn't even really realize it was there.

Yup, the colorspace option (first option right above the w/b controls in the custom user menu) you can toggle between normal and wide. Like I said, I really only use it every once in a while when I'm watching an animated flick and just prefer the bit of oversaturation it gives in those instances.
post #9382 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorRican View Post

While reading through the threads I found a professional calibrator's settings list that someone posted specifically for 3D I beleive they were posted by nathan_h. These are the setting I'm currently using for 3D. Now I know that every panel is different. I know I should have a pro come by and do my set, but I also know I don't have the $ to be able to afford that. So in my case, as I'm sure many others, I like to "play" around with the settings you guys post and see which ones I like better.wink.gif

While watching Life of Pi (BR 3D) on my 55ST50 I noticed that some scenes were fairly dark (the one that comes to mind is when the tiger is trying to crawl back into the boat after being thrown to the ocean by the storm...sorry I don't have a time reference, but the scene takes place during night time) and I am curious about what exactly this AGC you refer to is and does. I am no expert but I look forward to going home and trying it out. I did notice another poster (Chere) had his own 3D settings and had this ACG at a 10, but most 3D settings I've found keep it a 0. I will say that to my eyes, COOL1 does seemed brighter and more accurate than either WARM1 or 2 for a 3D source.

I really like this TV. The only thing I'm still trying to dial in is the brightness with a 3D source b/c 3D just seems too dark for me eventhough all viewings have taken place during night time and in a dark controlled room.


I think you meant CheYc....wink.gif Mine is set at 0.
post #9383 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorRican View Post

While reading through the threads I found a professional calibrator's settings list that someone posted specifically for 3D I beleive they were posted by nathan_h. These are the setting I'm currently using for 3D. Now I know that every panel is different. I know I should have a pro come by and do my set, but I also know I don't have the $ to be able to afford that. So in my case, as I'm sure many others, I like to "play" around with the settings you guys post and see which ones I like better.wink.gif

While watching Life of Pi (BR 3D) on my 55ST50 I noticed that some scenes were fairly dark (the one that comes to mind is when the tiger is trying to crawl back into the boat after being thrown to the ocean by the storm...sorry I don't have a time reference, but the scene takes place during night time) and I am curious about what exactly this AGC you refer to is and does. I am no expert but I look forward to going home and trying it out. I did notice another poster (Chere) had his own 3D settings and had this ACG at a 10, but most 3D settings I've found keep it a 0. I will say that to my eyes, COOL1 does seemed brighter and more accurate than either WARM1 or 2 for a 3D source.

I really like this TV. The only thing I'm still trying to dial in is the brightness with a 3D source b/c 3D just seems too dark for me eventhough all viewings have taken place during night time and in a dark controlled room.

The description of AGC from the user menu is something like "lightens the dark areas of the picture," to be honest, I don't know what the hell it means, but it has made my 3D picture brighter without effecting the brightness of the blacks (i.e. my brightness control was only minorly adjusted after increasing the AGC). Cool will certainly give you a brighter looking picture, but in my experience, you're sacrificing color accuracy with that color temp.
post #9384 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post

I thought I'd add mine as well and share the calibration settings for my 65ST50. A big Thank you to the esteemed D-Nice for a fantastic job and for taking the time to explain everything clearly and patiently to someone who's quite a novice and had no idea what to expect on his first calibration.
Thanks for your calibration report. I've included a link to it in the flat panel (post number two) lists that are linked in the signature area at the bottom of my post. smile.gif
post #9385 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaviorMachine View Post

Where can I inquire about pro calibrators touring in my area?
Check the link in the signature area at the bottom of my post.
post #9386 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotskins View Post

Speak for yourself. My pannys are working perfect.
You have like 20 posts complaining about Panasonic. Stop trolling.
my first panny ut50 was on October and was returned before the 30 days period to best buy because of screen issues,the guy tell me to take the st50 and see how it goes and it develop a bad image retation that can not be fixed,now im 1 month without a tv that I paid 1,300 wainting for Panasonic to send me a check so I can buy something else,should I be happy about that? should I must be quiet about it?
post #9387 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chere View Post

I think you meant CheYc....wink.gif Mine is set at 0.

oops...fixed! Thanks
post #9388 of 9972
I'm new to this forum and all but I been searching for one since purchasing the p55st50 a couple of days ago. To be honest I'm kind of disappointed with the picture quality so far. Coming from a 47inch Led Tv this plasma seem too dark for my liking. The only picture mode I kind of enjoy is the vivid one but the colors are too overly saturated. So I tried a couple of other people setting and warm 2 makes the screen too yellow looking and dark. Can anyone point in the direction of a bright vivid setting without overly saturated red in it? If not the TV must go back. The good part is I only paid 799 plus tax and a two year Service plan=998.00 Open box at bestbuy.
post #9389 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRBR View Post

my first panny ut50 was on October and was returned before the 30 days period to best buy because of screen issues,the guy tell me to take the st50 and see how it goes and it develop a bad image retation that can not be fixed,now im 1 month without a tv that I paid 1,300 wainting for Panasonic to send me a check so I can buy something else,should I be happy about that? should I must be quiet about it?

You got two lemons. That sucks. I would be unhappy and want my money back, too. Not much more to say.
post #9390 of 9972
Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoGuy32 View Post

I'm new to this forum and all but I been searching for one since purchasing the p55st50 a couple of days ago. To be honest I'm kind of disappointed with the picture quality so far. Coming from a 47inch Led Tv this plasma seem too dark for my liking. The only picture mode I kind of enjoy is the vivid one but the colors are too overly saturated. So I tried a couple of other people setting and warm 2 makes the screen too yellow looking and dark. Can anyone point in the direction of a bright vivid setting without overly saturated red in it? If not the TV must go back. The good part is I only paid 799 plus tax and a two year Service plan=998.00 Open box at bestbuy.

I think you should probably return the TV. It will never be as bright as an LED LCD TV.

There may be something wrong with your set or settings. Did you try the factory reset? Although Warm 2 can look a little dark and reddish at first, in a dark room, after adjusting to it, it brings these TVs remarkably close to spec. But if you watch it for a week, in a dim viewing environment, and still don't like it, there may be something wrong with the TV, or it simply may not be to your taste.
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