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Sunflower State Cinema - Page 2

post #31 of 203
3/28/12 at 2:49pm
I have 9 month old twins, a boy and a girl. I dread the day I come home to "Daddy! I drew a picture for you" and find it on my screen. Like mentioned above, we have begun to train the kids on what they can and can't touch as they are now mobile. The boy is super good, the girl on the other hand is a nightmare, she's trying to eat one of my end tables.
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post #32 of 203
3/28/12 at 2:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeveredDime View Post

I have 9 month old twins, a boy and a girl. I dread the day I come home to "Daddy! I drew a picture for you" and find it on my screen. Like mentioned above, we have begun to train the kids on what they can and can't touch as they are now mobile. The boy is super good, the girl on the other hand is a nightmare, she's trying to eat one of my end tables.

This is EXACTLY why I am doing motorized drapes that will automatically close to cover the screen when the PJ is not on. I have 3 boys. The first two are 10 months apart (almost 5 and almost 4) and the youngest is 1.
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post #33 of 203
3/28/12 at 3:36pm
Thread Starter 
I like the idea of having the screen covered with drapes when not in use even though my room will be locked. That way there are multiple layers of defense. We can make it like Mission Impossible and in order to break into the inner sanctum of the AT screen they will have to be leaping moats and dodging laser beams!
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post #34 of 203
3/28/12 at 6:25pm
Haha, nice.

I'm having friends over Sat night and am putting up a long kid fence pieced together so a few feet in front of the screen. We had a ton of people over for the superbowl and every single toddler was drawn to the screen with a hypnotized look on their face as they walk towards it.

Nice to see construction has begun in your basement!! I agree that you should get exterior doors with weather stripping, the doors in my basement cause the worst rattles but it's almost gone now that I have weather stripping. They are hollow, I bet if they were solid I would get no rattles at all.

I can do Sat morning if that works for you. My wife is only giving me an hour window though. Will 10:00 work for you?
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post #35 of 203
5/30/12 at 6:33pm
So here's my sub recommendation - just cause I want to hear it.

:P

Buy four - one for each of the four corners.

Couple these with a inexpensive amp like a Inuke DSP 3000 and see how they sound!

Only out $1350 bucks between four of these subwoofers and an INuke DSP 3000. They might not dig the deepest in the world - but you'd likely have some amazingly smooth frequency response. If you wanted something deep to compliment put a DTS-10 behind that AT screen of yours. That would REALLY be a setup!

Left Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SL&status=

Right Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SR&status=

Oh -- and then invite me over to help you tune it. :P
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post #36 of 203
6/26/12 at 9:00pm
Did you get the Orbit Shifter yet? I wanna see pics!
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post #37 of 203
7/16/12 at 6:12pm
Thread Starter 
Ding Dong!

Honey, there is something at the door called an Orbit Shifter!?!?!?!?!?

Do you know anything about this?
photo-2.jpg

And so it begins....
(I posted this in the sub forums as well but it is pretty fun so here ya go)
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post #38 of 203
7/16/12 at 6:34pm
Thread Starter 
Should we remove the plastic? Na'h, it can't be that heavy.

photo-7.jpg

Easy does it
th_IMG_1230.jpg
Uh Oh! Here's a tip. Take off the plastic you idiot!
photo-1-1.jpg
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post #39 of 203
7/16/12 at 6:37pm
Thread Starter 
Safe n Sound
photo-3-1.jpg
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post #40 of 203
7/16/12 at 6:45pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

So here's my sub recommendation - just cause I want to hear it.


:P


Buy four - one for each of the four corners.


Couple these with a inexpensive amp like a Inuke DSP 3000 and see how they sound!


Only out $1350 bucks between four of these subwoofers and an INuke DSP 3000. They might not dig the deepest in the world - but you'd likely have some amazingly smooth frequency response. If you wanted something deep to compliment put a DTS-10 behind that AT screen of yours. That would REALLY be a setup!


Left Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SL&status=


Right Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SR&status=






Archaea,

This is interesting. If the Rythmik F12 can't do its job I will look into it. Hefty discount!

I only need the second sub to do duty as a room mode smoother. So it needs to go high. And I want it to be small. I could even stack two of these in the corner.

Going to keep it in mind.

-Grant
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post #41 of 203
7/17/12 at 4:43pm
Thread Starter 
Obligatory post showing the screen taped out. Just before things get torn apart a little.

photo-5.jpg
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post #42 of 203
7/17/12 at 4:45pm
Thread Starter 
Did some work last week.

Demo of the 2 existing soffits. One ended up being a support beam. I need as much height as possible so I am contemplating how best to deal with this.

photo-2.jpg

What is the best way to cover the beam up and do so without losing more height? I am not opposed to rebuilding a soffit there. In fact, since the beam is already there I might as well just put the same kind of soffit in front of the beam as I will have around the sides and back of the theater. I am going to copy the Bacon Race design as much as I can with the soffits.

Any ideas on how to handle this beam?
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post #43 of 203
7/17/12 at 4:53pm
Thread Starter 
Here is a picture of the rear of the room. The extra wide stud in the middle of the picture is where I plan to have the projector behind the wall. The left side of the wall is where the door will be.

The second wall that is going in behind it will make a little hallway where my AV rack will be and a slide out media rack.

photo-3.jpg
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post #44 of 203
7/17/12 at 4:56pm
Thread Starter 
Here is a close up of the back. The front of the AV rack will be in the little hallway and the back of it will be in the storage area that you see there so I will have easy access to the equipment and have plenty of cooling. I plan to put a sliding media rack beside the AV rack.


photo-4.jpg
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post #45 of 203
7/17/12 at 5:20pm
Thread Starter 
Here is what I am going for.

600
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post #46 of 203
7/17/12 at 8:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Did some work last week.
Demo of the 2 existing soffits. One ended up being a support beam. I need as much height as possible so I am contemplating how best to deal with this.
photo-2.jpg
What is the best way to cover the beam up and do so without losing more height? I am not opposed to rebuilding a soffit there. In fact, since the beam is already there I might as well just put the same kind of soffit in front of the beam as I will have around the sides and back of the theater. I am going to copy the Bacon Race design as much as I can with the soffits.
Any ideas on how to handle this beam?

Take a 2x4 and notch it so that when placed flat on top of the lower flange the 2x4 is flush with the bottom of the beam. Clamp in place and shoot with a powder actuated gun. Shooting through the 2x4 into the steel. Grind off nails that protrude through steel. Add furring to the top plate so that it matches the lower 2x4. Do the same thing to the other side. This gives you a place to secure the drywall along the edges of the drywall. Also apply glue to the bottom of the beam, so you do not have to worry about any rattle of the drywall on the bottom of the beam.

If you do not own (probably not) or do not want to rent a powder actuated gun, Then notch 2x4 for bottom flange and nail/screw furring onto side of top plate. Edge of furring and plate on bottom flange should line up vertically, same as in method above. Then cut and notch short 2x4's and install them vertically (nail/screw) wedging the lower plate against the steel flange. Glue and screw drywall to steel and framing. I have used both methods many times. You lose minimum height (drywall thickness) below the beam. Let me know if you have any questions.

Added
Since the flange is slopped, you will need to bevel the edge of the notched plate sitting on the bottom flange so that the edge of the 2x4 is vertical.
Edited by AV Science Sales 5 - 7/17/12 at 9:14pm
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post #47 of 203
7/20/12 at 7:43pm
Thread Starter 
Mike,

I think I understand most of what you are describing. There are a few details that I am murky on. Is there a picture of someone else's who has done something similar?

At any rate I will show your post to the carpenter I am working with and maybe he will fill in the details I am lacking.

Should I fill the cavity with pink fluffy?

Do I need to place some kind of a decoupler, anti vibration, or small thin barrier around the steel beam?
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post #48 of 203
7/21/12 at 3:54am
I don't think you can fit a powder actuated nailer in that space. Nailing on an angle is a bad idea.

I would get some lengths of 20ga L channel and nail up through the channel with a 1/2" pin. Glue the GWB to the bottom and you can secure the drywall on the sides to the L.

If you can't find L, just get some 3-5/8" steel stud track and cut it down the middle. Heck, you could probably glue it to the beam with some PL if you had to.

Tim
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post #49 of 203
7/21/12 at 4:50am
If you don't mind the additional width you can ladder down a frame wall on both sides of the beam with the bottom edge of the ladder flush with the bottom. Fill voids with fluffy and cover with DD and GG. if you want isolation ladder from an isolated ceiling and leave a gap at the bottom between the drywall and the beam. You can use 2x2 or 2x3s.
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post #50 of 203
7/21/12 at 7:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I don't think you can fit a powder actuated nailer in that space. Nailing on an angle is a bad idea.
I would get some lengths of 20ga L channel and nail up through the channel with a 1/2" pin. Glue the GWB to the bottom and you can secure the drywall on the sides to the L.
If you can't find L, just get some 3-5/8" steel stud track and cut it down the middle. Heck, you could probably glue it to the beam with some PL if you had to.
Tim

Thanks MrTim,

Yeah that is a tight space so I will keep that in mind.

-Grant
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post #51 of 203
7/21/12 at 7:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you don't mind the additional width you can ladder down a frame wall on both sides of the beam with the bottom edge of the ladder flush with the bottom. Fill voids with fluffy and cover with DD and GG. if you want isolation ladder from an isolated ceiling and leave a gap at the bottom between the drywall and the beam. You can use 2x2 or 2x3s.

Hey Big,

I am totally going to rip off your "minimalist approach to screen wall" That is a great thread and I have read through it many times.

Support Beam:
Yeah, I do not mind giving up the width at all. This would seem to be a simple solution and I am leaning this way.

Thanks,
-Grant
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post #52 of 203
7/21/12 at 8:04am
Thread Starter 
New title to the thread!

I changed the name of the theater. It was never going to be called the Padawan theater in the first place. I just had not come up with a name yet and I decided to play off of my forum name just for the heck of it. It was a little bit short sited on my part but hopefully the name change won't cause too much confusion.

Sunflower State Cinema it is. I live in Kansas and I thought it would be neat to incorporate Kansas themes into the decorations in the theater. It gives me a large amount of themes to work with.

Plus....I think it just has a nice ring to it.

-Grant
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post #53 of 203
7/21/12 at 8:06am
Thread Starter 
A basic version of my theater plans were added to the first post. I am making an effort to revamp my first post after royally screwing it up the first time. Hopefully things are much easier to understand now.
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post #54 of 203
7/22/12 at 8:55am
Thread Starter 
To soundproof or not to soundproof. That is the question.

I would have to rip out existing drywall and the added cost would mean cutting something else from my theater. I am on such a small budget that it really hurts. My plan was to sell my Klipsch RF-83's and buy Procella P6's. That would be the first thing to go. The next thing to go would be the EN4K screen. I would need to settle for Center Stage XD and I would be able to see the weave at a distance of 9.5-10 ft.

I recently got a commitment from a few of my brother in laws for the labor so that makes this a possibility. I have twin 1 year old boys and another boy on the way Dec 4 so the soundproofing would seem a wise undertaking.

My plan would be the typical clips, channel, DD with GG.

I do not know how to address my HVAC system.

I have a call out to Ted White so hopefully he can get me straightened out.

Any suggestions?
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post #55 of 203
7/22/12 at 3:55pm
I don't know what AT screen material you had in mind and I don't know if you already bought any, but I do know that brausch's choice of AT screen material was very very nice! We saw his home theater in Des Moines area this weekend and it was top tier!
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post #56 of 203
7/22/12 at 4:44pm
Thread Starter 
Is he the guy that dropped by Carp's to listen to the subs while he was camping around here? As I recall he had some pretty nice equipment.

I will have to ask him what he used.
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post #57 of 203
7/23/12 at 6:15am
Brausch uses Seymour AV Center Stage X that is 110" wide. Don't forget that I've got some for sale that is 112" wide. wink.gifsmile.gif
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post #58 of 203
7/23/12 at 1:35pm
Did I hear my name?!? Archaea and desertdome are correct, I did use the Seymour Centerstage XD. I tilted my screeen material 20 degrees and have not thrown the extra away. If you think it would be helpful, I could mail a chunk your way so you can get a better idea of what to expect. FWIW I sit 10'-6" from my screen and dont have a problem with the weave. You can only see it in white scenes and you really need to focus to be able to notice it - I never notice during normal viewing.
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post #59 of 203
7/23/12 at 4:07pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Did I hear my name?!? Archaea and desertdome are correct, I did use the Seymour Centerstage XD. I tilted my screeen material 20 degrees and have not thrown the extra away. If you think it would be helpful, I could mail a chunk your way so you can get a better idea of what to expect. FWIW I sit 10'-6" from my screen and dont have a problem with the weave. You can only see it in white scenes and you really need to focus to be able to notice it - I never notice during normal viewing.

That would be great. I have a small sample but something tells me I will get a much better idea of how the material will look with a larger chunk. I will PM you.

Congrats on watching your first movie! I just thumbed through your thread and I noticed there are a few similarities to what I already have and hope to do.

-JVC RS45
-Denon 4311
-Design of the stage (Sunset Cinema)
-Screen wall from Big's Minimalist approach to screen wall thread
............too many other similarities to list...........

Your thread is quite large so if I can ask a few questions.

1. Did you use a minisplit bc your main AC would not cut the mustard or was it bc of noise issues?
2. What made you jump onto the soundproofing wagon? (I am currently conflicted)
3. Any suggestions for me as I start my quickie build. Don't laugh. I know I'll be watch'n movies in no time!
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post #60 of 203
7/23/12 at 4:16pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post

Brausch uses Seymour AV Center Stage X that is 110" wide. Don't forget that I've got some for sale that is 112" wide. wink.gifsmile.gif

I have not forgotten. It may or may not work for me bc my goal is for a Constant Image Area concept.

If I remember correctly your material will very nearly work but it is cutting it close.

I want to do 9ft wide 2.35 image which will be 46'' high. I will mask the top and bottom.
Then to keep my sq ft the same I need a 1.78 image that is approx 54'' high. So I want to add 4'' to the top and the bottom and mask the sides.

So I will be making 4 friction fit or magnet panels. If I conserve enough height when I put the soffit around the support beam in the front of the room I should not have problems with the back row seeing the top of the screen with 1.78 format.

I have never put together a DIY screen so I don't know how much extra material I need beyond the viewable image area of 9ft wide and 54'' high.
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