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Deadline Has Been Set (and Re-Set...) Theater Build - Page 13

post #361 of 412
2/13/13 at 10:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

..... Stopping the yellow stripe at the front column should help keep the image looking as good as possible.......

This was my first thought as well. I like the colors, and agree that a toned down yellow is probably a good thing. I may have missed it, but have you considered adding a little yellow to your columns? An accent more than a focal point. I like the color scheme, but I can't help but think a little accent here and there would really give it that final touch.

I can't tell you how jealous I am that you are this close to being finished!
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post #362 of 412
2/13/13 at 11:39am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTheGreat View Post

I saw the hawkeye colors and had to leave the thread tongue.gif
Understandable, but here's my pain. A friend of mine has extra tickets (go figure), so I'm actually going to be at Hilton this Saturday for the ISU vs TCU game. Last time I was there was when Lafester Rhodes put up 54 on the Hawks. Yes, I am that old...
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post #363 of 412
2/13/13 at 11:44am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

This was my first thought as well. I like the colors, and agree that a toned down yellow is probably a good thing. I may have missed it, but have you considered adding a little yellow to your columns? An accent more than a focal point. I like the color scheme, but I can't help but think a little accent here and there would really give it that final touch.

I can't tell you how jealous I am that you are this close to being finished!
Thanks J_P_A. Good thought on accenting the columns. I'll have to play around with that a little and see if I can come up with something. The mockup doesn't show it, but the speakers are about 14" or so down from the top of the column and will be behind speaker cloth. So the columns will be broken up a bit visually. Wonder what a narrow center strip would look like with trim around it. Hmmm...off to sketchup!
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post #364 of 412
2/13/13 at 1:47pm
Thread Starter 
Another version. I added the speaker covers and an accent stripe to the columns. Thoughts?

Left View


Back View


Entry View


Screen View
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post #365 of 412
2/13/13 at 1:52pm
+1 on the accents.
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post #366 of 412
2/13/13 at 2:14pm
I like 'em! You might also be able to get away with a yellow corner bead down the sides of the columns instead of the insets. Maybe floor to ceiling with the corner bead would break things up a bit? I'm trying to visualize it, but I'm not sure if I would like that more or not.
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post #367 of 412
2/13/13 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I like 'em! You might also be able to get away with a yellow corner bead down the sides of the columns instead of the insets.
I've been hoping someone else would come up with something like this. I've been wondering what it would be like to use upholstery piping on the edges of panels to give them a little kick.
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post #368 of 412
2/13/13 at 2:58pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. Interesting thoughts. Not sure on the corner trim. I've had that in a previous house (not in ht, just a normal corner) and it had a tendency to snag passers by. With the two columns on the edge of the riser, it makes me think that may happen there as well with people coming and going to the back row. I might just be paranoid though.

Never thought about upholstery piping. Will have to look into that. Wonder what would be the best way to attach that?
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post #369 of 412
2/13/13 at 4:49pm
Nice work on screen wall and screen. i think it looks very nice.

I especially like your design. Functional and simple. Too many designs get lost in trying to shoehorn a taj mahal into a standard home.....IMHO.

How do you like the ERDs? I just picked up a pair used for side surrounds. I havent received them yet but always like their design and found a good deal. Are you running them all as dipoles? Did you reverse the back two?
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post #370 of 412
2/13/13 at 7:07pm
Thread Starter 
Hey Nick. Thanks for the comments. The Mrs. likes the added stripes on the columns, so it looks like we have a winner. Time to figure out the amount of fabric we need and get it ordered.

I really like the Emotivas. The sides I have set as left di-pole and right di-pole. The rears I have set as left/right bi-pole. So far I don't have a reason to try a different configuration as they sound good to me. Will see what happens when I get around to calibrating down the road.
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post #371 of 412
2/13/13 at 9:24pm
GWCR, been following your thread for some time now. You are going to end of with a space that you should really be proud of.

You asked for some opinions so I will throw mine out there.......

I think your yellow on the side walls is too wide and is going to be a distraction while watching movies. I totally understand your wanting to "fly your teams colors" as I am a pretty big college football fan myself, just a team of a different flavor than yours.

Take a look at "Spaceman Theater Build" and look what he did with his accent color on his wall. Perhaps you could go with that size/orientation and go with a large Hawkeye logo in your back corners on the angled wall. I would envision your Hawkeye logo being a gold outline almost glowing on top of your dark background. They wouldn't be a "distraction" at all as they would be behind your seating positions but would be on full display as you enter the room..

Good luck as you finish your build, I have enjoyed following it.

Brad S

Hawkeye Logo
Edited by BRAD S - 2/13/13 at 9:31pm
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post #372 of 412
2/14/13 at 6:22am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the comments Brad. Initially I had the stripe wider than it is now, and cut it down quite a bit. Currently it is at 2'2" wide. I'll play with it a little more to see how it looks with a narrower stripe.

I was also concerned about the gold being distracting and reflecting a lot of light from the PJ. After doing some searching for lighter colored HTs a few months ago, I found that most people who used lighter colors didn't really find them distracting, and there wasn't as much reflection as they thought there would be. Specifically the Chasen the Dream Theater. Lots of yellow in there. He was kind enough to provide a screen shot of it with the lights off during a movie (Screen Shot), and that doesn't seem distracting to me at all (Heck, I'm not even distracted by the current white primed walls right next to the screen during "testing" rolleyes.gif...) Hopefully with the front walls immediately adjacent to the screen being all black without a stripe, that would make it even less noticeable when the lights are out.

Funny you should mention the logo. The first thing my youngest son said when he saw the mockup was, "You should put a black Tigerhawk on the back wall in the middle of the gold stripe". Definitely under consideration...
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post #373 of 412
2/15/13 at 8:30am
Thread Starter 
Since I haven't attached the columns to the walls yet, I am thinking about adding a couple accessory jacks to the screen facing side of the front column so it wouldn't be seen. I also haven't closed up the backside of the wall in the equipment area, so I have great access to punch a small hole, run the wires and caulk it up. I realized the other day that the audyssey mic won't reach the room from where the equipment is, and it might be nice to be able to plug it and a few other things in down the road. Here's what I'm thinking for keystone jacks.

3.5mm Stereo Jack
Ethernet Jack

Anything else while I'm at it? HDMI? USB?

This is kind of an afterthought, but easy enough to do now before everything gets buttoned up.
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post #374 of 412
2/15/13 at 8:38am
I don't know much about this yet, but there is a thread going in the audio theory sub-forum about REW with a PNP USB mic and HDMI. The best I understand, you plug an HDMI cable into your laptop to your AVR and plug the mic into a USB port, and off you go. So, if you think you might want to go down the path of using REW, you might want to consider an HDMI somewhere convenient in your room for that. You might as well go ahead and pull a couple extra CAT 6 in there as well because there's all sorts of stuff that can use that.
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post #375 of 412
2/15/13 at 8:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Since I haven't attached the columns to the walls yet, I am thinking about adding a couple accessory jacks to the screen facing side of the front column so it wouldn't be seen. I also haven't closed up the backside of the wall in the equipment area, so I have great access to punch a small hole, run the wires and caulk it up. I realized the other day that the audyssey mic won't reach the room from where the equipment is, and it might be nice to be able to plug it and a few other things in down the road. Here's what I'm thinking for keystone jacks.

3.5mm Stereo Jack
Ethernet Jack
Audyssey uses a Mono jack, I beleive, so be careful with that one.
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post #376 of 412
2/15/13 at 12:41pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Audyssey uses a Mono jack, I beleive, so be careful with that one.
You are correct, they do. What is the downside to plugging a mono jack into a stereo socket (coupler), and then having another mono cable on the other end? Wouldn't the mono signal be the same on the other end? Main reason I'm asking is because I cant find any mono keystone couplers...
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post #377 of 412
2/15/13 at 4:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

You are correct, they do. What is the downside to plugging a mono jack into a stereo socket (coupler), and then having another mono cable on the other end? Wouldn't the mono signal be the same on the other end? Main reason I'm asking is because I cant find any mono keystone couplers...
I don't know the answer to that so hopefully someone else chimes in. If you have the coupler already, perhaps you can test it out. Theoretically it should work but I'd want to make sure. Unless you need the stereo jack anyway.
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post #378 of 412
2/15/13 at 9:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

You are correct, they do. What is the downside to plugging a mono jack into a stereo socket (coupler), and then having another mono cable on the other end? Wouldn't the mono signal be the same on the other end? Main reason I'm asking is because I cant find any mono keystone couplers...

Mono plug (jack is the socket) will short the ring and shaft together, which as long as you're expecting that on the other end, will be just fine. It's when the plug/jack is being used for three discrete signals that this becomes a problem.
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post #379 of 412
2/23/13 at 5:23am
Thread Starter 
Small update. I was able to get 3 coats of paint on the ceiling this week (man I hate painting ceilings...). Color is Dark Night from Sherwin Williams. Pics are a little crooked as the room was completely dark when I took them.





Goal for this weekend is to build up the sides of the light tray, get the cans installed, and wire up the lighting circuit.
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post #380 of 412
2/23/13 at 5:55am
Looking good GWCR! I hope you reach your progress goals this weekend. Looking forward to more updates.
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post #381 of 412
2/23/13 at 6:02am
Thread Starter 
Thanks TMcG. The fear of getting "Loganed" as I near the 1 year mark should keep the updates coming...tongue.gif
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post #382 of 412
2/23/13 at 6:08am
LOL! I didn't even know what "Loganed" was but I guess you saw that I achieved that honor already. I am barely out of the gate and was making what I thought was good progress....I guess not! frown.gif As a consequence I have been working in the basement since 4:15AM this morning and just came up for a bit more coffee and some breakfast before heading up to start on the new nursery. Like yourself, I can't let my theater progress updates slip!!!

Go get 'em!
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post #383 of 412
2/23/13 at 6:32am
Painting the black ceiling was a nightmare for me. Three coats and I could still see roller marks. I used tricorn black also from Sherwin Williams. Yours looks really nice and smooth. Good luck with the weekend work.
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post #384 of 412
2/23/13 at 5:28pm
2+ coats for me too. The + part was a third coat just in the section in the path of light from the PJ. After the third coat I decided the roller marks would be barely visible. Either way, I'm glad that portion of my theater is done. Screen is up for me and all that's left is trim and blackout panels around the screen.

Question for you GWCR - did you have a problem squaring up your screen from Jamestown? Got mine assembled but one side is a little off. Not more than 1/2" so it's not noticeable when the lights are off, but its giving me a hell of a time for crafting my blackout panels.
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post #385 of 412
2/24/13 at 5:27am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Painting the black ceiling was a nightmare for me. Three coats and I could still see roller marks. I used tricorn black also from Sherwin Williams. Yours looks really nice and smooth. Good luck with the weekend work.
Thanks Vanice. The pic does look nice and even. However, when I shine the work light on the ceiling, I can still see a few roller marks here and there. Going to let it go for now and see if it bothers me down the road. It may just be by OCD kicking in...wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Question for you GWCR - did you have a problem squaring up your screen from Jamestown? Got mine assembled but one side is a little off. Not more than 1/2" so it's not noticeable when the lights are off, but its giving me a hell of a time for crafting my blackout panels.
Hey blipszyc. I put a square on each corner as I assembled the screen frame, so I know each corner was nice and square. I haven't done an official fully assembled square measurement, but to my eye it looks good. Hopefully it stays that way when I start measuring for my panels. Will let you know if it's off.
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post #386 of 412
2/25/13 at 6:37pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Goal for this weekend is to build up the sides of the light tray, get the cans installed, and wire up the lighting circuit.
Pretty close on the weekend goal. Got the sides of the light tray up and installed 12 cans in the tray. That was as far as I got before a basketball tournament derailed me. Trying to find some time this week to wire up the Grafik Eye (temporarily...) and get some real light in the room. Can't wait to get rid of the work lights! The pics aren't too exciting, but proof of something.



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post #387 of 412
3/2/13 at 6:18pm
I was playing with my panny today and found that I can't use lens memory to switch between 235 and 16:9 unless the center of the lens is within the vertical range of the screen. Looking at your pics it looks like your lens might be above the top of your screen. Just thought I would give you the heads up.
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post #388 of 412
3/4/13 at 6:42am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I was playing with my panny today and found that I can't use lens memory to switch between 235 and 16:9 unless the center of the lens is within the vertical range of the screen. Looking at your pics it looks like your lens might be above the top of your screen. Just thought I would give you the heads up.
I replied in the Panny 8000 thread but will here too just for other eyes. Yes, the center of my lens is higher than the top of the screen (~2"). Using the joystick and v-area position I saved a lens memory for 16:9 and one for 2.35:1. It does auto switching between the two perfectly. Just like Ron Popeil said, "Set it and forget it!" biggrin.gif
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post #389 of 412
3/4/13 at 6:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I was playing with my panny today and found that I can't use lens memory to switch between 235 and 16:9 unless the center of the lens is within the vertical range of the screen. Looking at your pics it looks like your lens might be above the top of your screen. Just thought I would give you the heads up.
I replied in the Panny 8000 thread but will here too just for other eyes. Yes, the center of my lens is higher than the top of the screen (~2"). Using the joystick and v-area position I saved a lens memory for 16:9 and one for 2.35:1. It does auto switching between the two perfectly. Just like Ron Popeil said, "Set it and forget it!" biggrin.gif


Yup this works. I think it shifts the image on the LCD panels. However once you run out of panel then thats it, it won't "power" shift the image any further.
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post #390 of 412
3/4/13 at 7:03am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I was playing with my panny today and found that I can't use lens memory to switch between 235 and 16:9 unless the center of the lens is within the vertical range of the screen. Looking at your pics it looks like your lens might be above the top of your screen. Just thought I would give you the heads up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

I replied in the Panny 8000 thread but will here too just for other eyes. Yes, the center of my lens is higher than the top of the screen (~2"). Using the joystick and v-area position I saved a lens memory for 16:9 and one for 2.35:1. It does auto switching between the two perfectly. Just like Ron Popeil said, "Set it and forget it!" biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Yup this works. I think it shifts the image on the LCD panels. However once you run out of panel then thats it, it won't "power" shift the image any further.
That's how I understand it. Would be nice to know the maximum height above the top of the screen you could mount and still use the auto switching. However I'm sure there are too many variables (screen size, throw distance) for Panasonic to make a blanket statement about it. All I know is, it works for me and I couldn't be happier.

Side note: Watched Argo last night. Very well done. For anyone who remembers the Iran hostage crisis, I would recommend seeing it. Also got a kick out of all the late 70's early 80's hair, glasses, and massive amounts of smoking. tongue.gif
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