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Deadline Has Been Set (and Re-Set...) Theater Build - Page 3

post #61 of 534
I used "airtight" cans all over my house. When I had a blower door test done they were one of my largest air leak paths to the attic. I had to build boxes around all the cans and seal them with foam. Adding the boxes made a huge difference in the blower door readings.

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post #62 of 534
I like your idea of moving registers to the side soffits. I remember at least one person noticing a bit of a haze in their picture with the vents blowing directly in front of the screen.

From a soundproofing standpoint I agree that having the vent in the side soffit might allow for some absorbing material (duct liner or pink) in the duct. This along with that 90 degree bend near your front soffit makes the path between register and open hole in sound envelope that much more 'challenging' to reach. What are you planning to cover your side soffits with? DE once recommended 3/4" MDF to encase HVAC soffit chase.
post #63 of 534
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I like your idea of moving registers to the side soffits. I remember at least one person noticing a bit of a haze in their picture with the vents blowing directly in front of the screen.

From a soundproofing standpoint I agree that having the vent in the side soffit might allow for some absorbing material (duct liner or pink) in the duct. This along with that 90 degree bend near your front soffit makes the path between register and open hole in sound envelope that much more 'challenging' to reach. What are you planning to cover your side soffits with? DE once recommended 3/4" MDF to encase HVAC soffit chase.

I have seen quite a few threads lately with the supply registers on the sides as well. I will have a couple 90 degree bends in them before getting back to the main supply trunk. They will also be surrounded by non-backed insulation. The side and rear soffits will also be 3/4" MDF, and filled with non-backed insulation.
post #64 of 534
Not sure where you're punching the hole in your DD/GG but you might want to avoid having it at the very end of your soffit run. Doing so gives the sound path one additional 90 degree bend before getting out. Bends in flex duct are good for HF isolation. However the heavier mass from DD or MDF should have better isolation on LF and having another bend should give you more LF absorption/relection (similar to a baffle box concept). I plan on using a lined soffit as my duct within the room and then a few feet of snaking flex after exiting (maybe encased in more MDF?).

Are those 2x6" supplies, hooked to your main air handler? Have you figured out your returns yet? I was planning on a single rear return running in lined soffit and opening right next to PJ mounted in soffit. Just realized some PJ's vent out the front so not so sure my plans would work very well in cooling the PJ?
post #65 of 534
Thread Starter 
Made some decent progress over the past week. Got the clips and channel installed on the walls. Almost done with the ceiling clips, but I ran out. Need to get some more ordered today. Also, framed the front soffit, snaked the HVAC, stuffed with insulation and closed it up with 3/4" MDF.

Soffit Frame 2x2's


HVAC Supplies in Soffit


Insulation


Closed up with MDF


First time I have worked with MDF. Very heavy and a dirty mother when you are cutting it. I had the guys at Lowes cut it to the length I needed for the soffit bottom, but still had to make a few cuts. So much easier to handle since they made the initial cuts.

Picked up my door slab last week too. Need to pick up a threshold, hinges and lumber for the jamb. Then I can get the door hung and it's on to the drywall stage. It's good to see some visible progress again.
post #66 of 534
Wow, lots of progress! Looking good.

Is the soffit decoupled?
post #67 of 534
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Are those 2x6" supplies, hooked to your main air handler? Have you figured out your returns yet? I was planning on a single rear return running in lined soffit and opening right next to PJ mounted in soffit. Just realized some PJ's vent out the front so not so sure my plans would work very well in cooling the PJ?

Sorry I missed your question earlier. The supplies for the theater are on the same zone as the rest of the basement. I turned the fan on before I closed up the soffit to make sure I didn't have the flex duct kinked anywhere. Really good air flow dumping out of both (that's as scientific as I'm going to get on the air flow...). The returns will be in the soffit at the rear of the room close to the projector location. I will be making custom boots for both the supplies and returns similar to what Big and Damelon did as described in this post. Link
post #68 of 534
Thread Starter 
Getting ready to order hinges for the door (Masonite Safe'n Sound 1-3/4"). There will be 1" treatments on the wall, so I need to order wide throw hinges. I have seen people mention both 4x6 and 4x7 hinges. Any opinions on which one would be best?
post #69 of 534
Thread Starter 
Also looking at this for the threshold.



Anyone ever order from this site?

Marble Thresholds
post #70 of 534
Thread Starter 
Bump for opinions on 2 previous posts...
post #71 of 534
I wish I could help, but I have no experience with either issue.

I kicked around the idea of installing a stone threshold, but I think I am going to try a stained oak threshold first. If I end up having troubles with the wood warping, I will move on to stone.

Sorry I cant be more help.
post #72 of 534
I'm no real help either. Is the beveled edge on that stone standard (unavoidable)? Looks like a gap in the making. I was going to go with wood for mine - to match the wood in the lobby.
post #73 of 534
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies guys. The theshold would be set so that when the door is closed, it is past the beveled edge, so there wouldn't be any seal issues. Many different types of bevel that can be on there, but that is the standard one. Helps to reduce the potential trip hazard.
post #74 of 534
Just one note on the threshold - My threshold rises 3/4 inch above the subfloor but now that the carpet is done (low pile carpet) the door rubs on the carpet. When opening the door the bottom door seal is still somewhat in a lowered position and I have to rock the door back and forth a bit to get the seal to come up. The carpet is flush with the threshold but I wish it stuck up another 1/4 inch or so. I'm going to have to cut down my door a bit and will probably have to remove the threshold and raise it up another 1/4".
post #75 of 534
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I'm no real help either. Is the beveled edge on that stone standard (unavoidable)? Looks like a gap in the making. I was going to go with wood for mine - to match the wood in the lobby.

A bevel on a threshold is there for a few reasons. First, think if it was a sharp edge. If the edge was sharp, then the flooring would have to match perfectly. If not it would be a trip hazard. Even 1/32" could hang your shoe if hard surface flooring is used. Also the square edge that stuck up, if not perfect would get chipped off. Last you want the door to seal at the threshold. Traditionally a fixed seal is used on the bottom of a door. If the threshold was not raised, then the seal would rub the full swing of the door. Of course for HT use you could use a drop seal.
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post #76 of 534
Thread Starter 
No exciting pics to post. Got the rest of the clips and channel up on the ceiling, and cut the boards for the door jamb. Tough to finish the jamb without the hinges (duh). They should be here later this week.

Got a quote for the DW. I can go pick it up myself and hump it downstairs, or they will deliver and stock it in the basement for an additional $70. Decisions, decisions...
post #77 of 534
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

........Got a quote for the DW. I can go pick it up myself and hump it downstairs, or they will deliver and stock it in the basement for an additional $70. Decisions, decisions...

I suspect that by the time you're finished hanging drywall, that $70 will sound cheap!

I lived in Cedar Rapids for a while, BTW. It's was crazy cold when I was there. Theater would be great investment
post #78 of 534
I paid $50 to just have my drywall delivered to my house. For $70 I would say it would be money well spent....unless you have a few friends to sucker into helping.
post #79 of 534
Thread Starter 
Wow. Over a month since I posted an update, so I have a little catching up to do. First off, best $70 I ever spent. Especially since I got to watch the effort the two 20-somethings gave to carry all the DW in and stock it in the theater room. If they didn't have more deliveries, they would have received a few beers for their efforts. Since they weren't done for the day, they had to settle for a couple Diet Pepsi's and bottles of water.

46-4'x10' sheets.


I've moved my share of 4'x8' 1/2 inch DW, and other than it being a bit awkward it wasn't too bad. But add 1/8 inch of thickness and 2 feet of length, that stuff is a workout!

Hinges came in and I was able to build the custom jamb and hang the door. Also got the first layer of DW installed.






Then progress stopped for 3 weeks with baseball, confirmations, graduations, etc. Was finally able to get some more work done over the holiday weekend.

Caulked all the seams.


(Front wall will wait until the DW stack only needs to be moved once)






Then it was time to move on to layer two. I finally get to play with Green Glue!!!


I dry fit all of the sheets before putting the GG on, in case I my measurements were off a bit. Only needed to trim a little off of one sheet. Second layer is on the ceiling!


and the speedload gun is clean and waiting for the walls


All in all, a productive holiday weekend.
post #80 of 534
Looking good! Props for doing such a good job...tight seams, staggered end joints on the ceiling, excellent work.
post #81 of 534
Very Nice work!
post #82 of 534
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. Trying to make it easy for the mudder/tapers (that I will hire ).

Couple sound things I have noticed. Our laundry room is right above the front soffit area, and the washer sound has always been loud down there before I started finishing the room. It was doing its spin cycle last night, so I decided to see what it sounded like now. Walking to the theater room I could hear the washer in the open area of the basement. Got into the theater and closed the door. I had to concentrate to hear it, and thats with the 2nd layer to go on the walls and no door seals yet! Very excited to hear the room when it's done!

The second has to do with the waste line in the corner. That thing is LOUD when there is water crashing through it. I will need to do some planning and treating of that PVC before I wall it off. I will need to make some sort of access panel for the cleanout, just in case.
post #83 of 534
With regard to the waste line...Although it is realistically too late to do something about it on your build, I thought I might mention something that was suggested to me several years ago on this topic.

Cast iron waste pipes apparently are quieter and tilting the pipe (iron or plastic) several degrees would encourage the waste to follow one side of the pipe and result in a quieter flow.

Just figured I'd mention it here in case it helps anyone in the future.
post #84 of 534
Thanksgiving will be here before you know it! wink.gif Have you made any progress lately?
post #85 of 534
Thread Starter 
Quick update from the weekend. Finished hanging the 2nd layer of drywall. Will post some pics after I get the room cleaned up a bit. Next items on the to do list...

Caulk perimeter of floor, ceiling and door (again).
Treat corner waste pipe with R8 insulation and MLV.
Build corner wall to hide waste pipe (with access panel for cleanout).
Run conduit for projector cables.
Build power bridge for projector.
Run all power/lighting and a/v cables in soffit areas.
Build/install HVAC boots.
Build soffits.
Mud/tape (will hire this out).
Install lights.

I'm trying to keep my short term to do list at 10 items so it's easier to see progress. Only about 400 other things that still need to go on there...

Ordered door stops/seals and door bottom from the Soundproofing Company this week too, so I guess that makes 11 things on the short term list. Why do I get the feeling that building a HT is like trying to eat an elephant?
post #86 of 534
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

Thanksgiving will be here before you know it! wink.gif Have you made any progress lately?
I must have been typing when you posted. Yeah, the first day of summer means that the first day of fall will be here sooner than later. Making that list puts in perspective just how much I still have to go. Time to start ignoring the family a bit more I guess. tongue.gif
post #87 of 534
Thread Starter 
Aesthetics question for some opinions. Getting ready to order the door handle hardware. All the doors are the same white 6 panel style. Closest other door is about 15-20 feet away. All the other door handles are brushed nickel. Not sure I want that color handle on the inside of the theater. Would it look goofy for one door in the basement to have a black handle when all the others are brushed nickel? Does it really matter? Appreciate any feedback.
post #88 of 534
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Quick update from the weekend. Finished hanging the 2nd layer of drywall. Will post some pics after I get the room cleaned up a bit. Next items on the to do list...
Run conduit for projector cables.

How are you eating that piece of the elephant if your drywall is up?
post #89 of 534
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

How are you eating that piece of the elephant if your drywall is up?
One bite at a time... wink.gif
post #90 of 534
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

One bite at a time... wink.gif

No seriously....how do you plan on running conduit for projector cables if your drywall is already up?
I'm getting closer to finalizing my wiring plans now. Funny how something as simple as running cabling to a PJ can turn into a huge research project.......How do I avoid running AC and HDMI parallel, how do I keep HDMI run under 25' to maintain high-speed cable certification? where do I put conduit drops to allow for various PJ throw distances? how do I do this and minimize sound leaks? how do I do all this and maintain code? Ugh.
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