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Darbee vision darblet - Page 90

post #2671 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by hidefpaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by sjschaff View Post

Agree totally. And I'd have to say that his experience with the Darblet is nearly the same as mine. And given that I too have a JVC-RS 35 and Lumagen Radiance and Oppo Blu-ray and other Blu-ray sources the range of Hi Def for the Darblet that he's been using is the same with me. My only difference with his experience is my video source. It's a Tivo HD and I'm using it only for Over-the-Air broadcasts here in the S.F. area. Least compression I know of (had both DirecTV and Comcast and these were much less quality, likely due to their compression). So, that's where I take DarbeeDr's guidance and use Full Pop for quality broadcasts like last evenings S.F. Giant's game in L.A. (sorry Dodgers).

Hello Sjschaff & rboster,

First, let me say that I have always had the greatest of appreciation for Kris' reviews and impressions of AV gear for as long as I have been reading HT mag. Perhaps "exaggeration" was the wrong word to use. However, the only reason I was and still am calling his review into question, was because of the comments that some made here in direct response to that review. That is, they are not having the same POSITIVE experience, not even close, as he did or like you guys are having.
I know sometimes we have to make a call on this and it is a subjective thing.....however like I mentioned before, its not like I can walk into my local AV store and see the Darbee in action. I would love to test this out and see if I too can experience the positive things that others here have said. Believe me after reading Kris' review I am itching to get my hands on one of these. I just read that AVS has some units in stock.

Thanks again

Paul

PS. Does anyone know if there is a full money back return policy if your order this unit?

Mark at AV Science Sales http://shop.avscience.com/ has posted here repeatedly that he sells the Darblet and you can return it for a refund minus the shipping return cost.
post #2672 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by hidefpaul View Post

Hello Sjschaff & rboster,
First, let me say that I have always had the greatest of appreciation for Kris' reviews and impressions of AV gear for as long as I have been reading HT mag. Perhaps "exaggeration" was the wrong word to use. However, the only reason I was and still am calling his review into question, was because of the comments that some made here in direct response to that review. That is, they are not having the same POSITIVE experience, not even close, as he did or like you guys are having.
I know sometimes we have to make a call on this and it is a subjective thing.....however like I mentioned before, its not like I can walk into my local AV store and see the Darbee in action. I would love to test this out and see if I too can experience the positive things that others here have said. Believe me after reading Kris' review I am itching to get my hands on one of these. I just read that AVS has some units in stock.
Thanks again
Paul
PS. Does anyone know if there is a full money back return policy if your order this unit?

Everyone understand too he is watching on a large (compared to flat panels) s.o.t.a image with as perfect an RS35 as is possible. The effects are just that impressive that the bigger "quality" display of whatever technology....the more bang for the buck WOW is possible.

I think there are a lot of others though that might agree with me, after living with the Darblet for awhile....that his flat dismissal of Pop is kind of puzzling. After having seen many instances where it looks "amazing" at some particular setting depending on the program's source quality, with a calibrated RS50 on bright large screen area, personally I don't agree with that assessment.
post #2673 of 7856
Is a difference between the blue case and black case model or is it just cosmetic?confused.gif
post #2674 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

So you are saying that over-cooking is a good thing or a bad thing? Sorry for the confusion, but your initial post that you quoted above seem very positive. Then your post following the screen shots seemed like you were pointing out the negative by over cooking the image. Hence my confusion and asking what the net was for your system.

Sorry. I didn't mean to give that impression.
I'm not being negative about the Darblet or Nvidia at all.
Quite the opposite. I can't live without either now.

My setup is actually dialed back from the over-cooked images to Personal Preference™
Showing the differences of this using "analog" photographs of projected screens is usually difficult and mostly inaccurate compared to the actual viewing experience - hence the over-cooked images example to demonstrate the differences that the camera can't reproduce but the eyes can see. I also find that these post processed images are more impressive in motion rather than just a single still frame. (Does AVS support video embeds?)

I'd love to learn the image difference technique that someone used earlier on the Sherlock Holmes screenshot. Can anyone help?
And I'm also looking at other ways to capture the HDMI output digitally post processed for a more accurate image representation of what the naked eye sees.
post #2675 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

Everyone understand too he is watching on a large (compared to flat panels) s.o.t.a image with as perfect an RS35 as is possible. The effects are just that impressive that the bigger "quality" display of whatever technology....the more bang for the buck WOW is possible.
I think there are a lot of others though that might agree with me, after living with the Darblet for awhile....that his flat dismissal of Pop is kind of puzzling. After having seen many instances where it looks "amazing" at some particular setting depending on the program's source quality, with a calibrated RS50 on bright large screen area, personally I don't agree with that assessment.

Seems that the impact of the Darblet may well have much to do with the display technology that we are using. Both Kris and Gary have JVC projectors, RS35 and RS65 respectively. For Kris the HD range is 45-55 while Gary was happy with 75% (I'm assuming he meant the setting of 75 here). Gary didn't indicate if he was using e-Shift or not, but pushing the Darbee level that high, I'm guessing he was. I can't speak to just how LCOS technology uses the image it receives from the Darblet in any way that is different than other technologies, but that may have something to do with what many are seeing. I'm beginning to feel like one of the group of blind Indian men surrounding and touching the elephant and trying to describe what it is. We're left to wonder, in the absence of knowing precisely what the Darbee algorithms are doing, and then sending to the displays. We can gather it has much to do with the pixel processing information presented, especially in the arena of luminescence.

So, I guess it would be of interest to know (how about a poll) that asks what technology are you using, size of displayed image, what setting, for say Blu-ray, are you using, and on a scale of 1-10 (10 being totally blown away / jaw-dropping / whatever) are you experiencing. At the moment it would seem that those of us using LCOS are happiest. But I've got the impression that it's made quite a difference to DLP users, and maybe less so to other technologies, and to those not having access to 1080p. Of course many are using additional processing as well, but I don't think we can go there (trying to keep it as simple as possible).
post #2676 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mimioguy View Post


I'd love to learn the image difference technique that someone used earlier on the Sherlock Holmes screenshot. Can anyone help?
I used Photoshop and layered the non-Darbeeized image with the Darbeeized image with its layer set to to difference.
post #2677 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by hidefpaul View Post

Hello Sjschaff & rboster,
First, let me say that I have always had the greatest of appreciation for Kris' reviews and impressions of AV gear for as long as I have been reading HT mag. Perhaps "exaggeration" was the wrong word to use. However, the only reason I was and still am calling his review into question, was because of the comments that some made here in direct response to that review. That is, they are not having the same POSITIVE experience, not even close, as he did or like you guys are having.
I know sometimes we have to make a call on this and it is a subjective thing.....however like I mentioned before, its not like I can walk into my local AV store and see the Darbee in action. I would love to test this out and see if I too can experience the positive things that others here have said. Believe me after reading Kris' review I am itching to get my hands on one of these. I just read that AVS has some units in stock.
Thanks again
Paul
PS. Does anyone know if there is a full money back return policy if your order this unit?

It looks to me like each display responds differently. I don't see nearly as much benefit on my DLP projector as I do on my LCOS projector.

The effect may look different depending on how your display is gamma calibrated too.
post #2678 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

I will detail my experience using the 3.5mm IR input port on the Darblet. I have a Niles Audio MSU480 Multi-room IR Wireless Repeater System Hub, which has 3.5mm output ports for the flashers and / or a dedicated 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Male cable to the device (no stick-on flasher). I connected the Darblet using a 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Male mono cable, and it worked like a charm.
However, I discovered when the Darblet is plugged into the IR distribution system via the dedicated 3.5mm input on the Darblet, one of my other components does not work. My Denon AVR-4311CI is using a dedicated 3.5mm input for IR signals, and that device does not receive those signals when the Darblet is plugged in. When I unplugged the Darblet's IR input cable, the 4311 worked fine.
The front panel IR receiver on the 4311 works when the Darblet is plugged in, just not the signals from the dedicated 3.5mm input on the back. However, it will pass the IR signals through to the other Denon devices I have connected in series via the 3.5mm IR in and out ports on Denon CI series products.
I have notified Larry of this anomaly, and if this is not fixable, I will just use an IR flasher on the Darblet instead of the 3.5mm port. I am waiting for them to develop a solution for the HDMI color format mismatch (green screen) on the Netgear NeoTV550, and then I will send it in for the Lumagen fix at the same time. Hopefully they can work out the IR input issues as well.
Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarbeeDr View Post

The IR IN on the Darblet expects a pin-out, from tip to sleeve of: (3.3V VCC Out, 3.3V IR In, GND). If an external, powered IR extender is being used, a 3.3V IR signal should thus be present on the ring (middle contact), GND connected on the sleeve, and the tip should be left disconnected (because the Darblet is supplying 3.3V there, expecting an unpowered IR extender).
The Darblet uses 38kHz Innotech codes for its IR communication. Simple learning remotes had no issue learning these codes.
WARNING: Do not mis-connect or apply more than 3.3V to the IR IN port. Some extender systems may operate at 5V, and may thus damage the Darblet and void warranty.
-DD


Sorry to dredge up this old topic, but I am trying to determine why my experience with the IR input would seem to indicate the above information from DarbeeDR is incorrect.

My Niles IR repeater system worked with the Darbee, but had some odd side effects, as noted above. I checked with Niles Tech Support, and they said the IR info is sent on the tip with their system. According to what DarbeeDR posted, the IR signals would have never made it to the Darblet, at is accepts them on the forward part of the sleeve on a stereo 3.5mm TRS connector. I just don't understand how IR signals from the tip of the mono connector in my Niles system were able to control the Darblet, which supposedly accepts the IR input only from the sleeve of a stereo connector.

Since a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words, here is a diagram and a summary of the various connection details:


Top TRS Connector: Stereo
Bottom TRS Connector: Mono



Common 3.5mm TRS Connections

1. Sleeve: usually ground
2. Ring: Right-hand channel for stereo signals, negative polarity for balanced mono signals, power supply for power-using mono signal sources
3. Tip: Left-hand channel for stereo signals, positive polarity for balanced mono signals, signal line for unbalanced mono signals
4. Insulating rings

Darbee Darblet 3.5mm Stereo TRS Connections (For the IR Input)

1 = Ground
2 = 3.3V IR input
3 = 3.3V VCC Out

Niles 3.5mm Mono TRS Connections (For the Niles IR Repeater System)

1 = Ground
2 = N/A
3 = IR input

Thanks for any explanation on how it worked for me.

Mark
post #2679 of 7856
Mark: Please provide more detail with the 3.5 IR cable wink.gifbiggrin.gif
post #2680 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

I used Photoshop and layered the non-Darbeeized image with the Darbeeized image with its layer set to to difference.

Thanks Geof. Works like a charm. smile.gif
post #2681 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

Mark: Please provide more detail with the 3.5 IR cable wink.gifbiggrin.gif

Yes,
What cables did you try?
A minor correction - you should label the Niles 3 as IR OUTPUT.

Pay no attention to the "common" 3.5 TRS connections.

If you've tried what you've shown (mono tip connected to stereo ring and both sleeves connected together) it should work but the caveat is the Darbee operates with 3.3V and your Niles unit most likely is 5V. As Dr Darbee warned, this may damaged the Darbee.
post #2682 of 7856
Now that the review is published I can chime in here if there are any questions. I did finally find a title that I didn't care for the Darblet with, The Last of the Mohicans on Blu-ray. While it looked fine throughout quite a bit of the film, there were moments that just looked a bit off regardless of my setting. But this is a film with some pretty severe lighting changes throughout. Otherwise it has been great. I still stand by the comment about it working its magic the best with extremely high quality transfers, but it has benefitted just about everything I've thrown at it on my projector. I am going to be underwater on a submarine all next week so I won't be responding to any questions during that time for obvious reasons.cool.gif
post #2683 of 7856
Quote:
The effect may look different depending on how your display is gamma calibrated too.

That is also definitely the case. I've been tweaking everything--I'm sure I don't have to explain the joy of tweaking to anyone here. smile.gif I've found the success of applying DarbeeVision to any given video content can change quite a lot based on gamma calibration changes.

So in addition to improving the perceived quality of your video, the Darblet is the gateway to a whole world of Endless Tweaking and Adjusting Ecstasy. I assume Darbee is not liable for any divorce lawyer expenses that may be incurred as a result of incessant Darblet tweaking.
post #2684 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Now that the review is published I can chime in here if there are any questions.

Which firmware version(s) did you test? What color space settings did you use for the Radiance output and the JVC input?
post #2685 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Now that the review is published I can chime in here if there are any questions.

Kris
I had commented a few posts above, that in my situation with light control and using a great RS50 with a bright hi power 2.8 screen which is unforgiving for any "problems" but spectacular at high foot lamberts when many types of hi ansi images are on it, that I was puzzled by your total lack of interest in and dismissal of the Pop mode. Since then I just came in from a couple of hours of really experimenting with my W7000 DLP in that same light controlled environment, with Avatar at 70-80 settings in Pop and again am blown away. I thought I had a serious problem with the W7000 so didn't touch it for over 6 weeks, but finally figured out I had something wrong, no problem with the projector.

With the wonderful handling of motion and tremendous already sharp image from the mirrors over at least my LCOS, if not your perfectly converged and sharp lensed RS35, even though the black level to really get the full bang out of this movie is not there.....everything else about DLP to me seems to accept higher levels with the DVP processing than my JVC. And I just sat there scene after scene in Avatar with the W7000 finally pretty well dialed in to my eyes without formal calibration, and those fairly high settings in Pop mode with my jaw in my lap. No noise, no ringing, nothing of any kind of traditional negative nature. If you on/off the processing at those levels of course you see what is going on with the pixels to achieve the roundness and depth without glasses but it just seems so "worth it". Again long as the source is excellent.
Edited by RonF - 8/25/12 at 10:17am
post #2686 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

Kris
I had commented a few posts above, that in my situation with light control and using a great RS50 with a bright hi power 2.8 screen which is unforgiving for any "problems" but spectacular at high foot lamberts when many types of hi ansi images are on it, that I was puzzled by your total lack of interest in and dismissal of the Pop mode. Since then I just came in from a couple of hours of really experimenting with my W7000 DLP in that same light controlled environment, with Avatar at 70-80 settings in Pop and again am blown away. I thought I had a serious problem with the W7000 so didn't touch it for over 6 weeks, but finally figured out I had something wrong, no problem with the projector.
With the wonderful handling of motion and tremendous already sharp image from the mirrors over at least my LCOS, if not your perfectly converged and sharp lensed RS35, even though the black level to really get the full bang out of this movie is not there.....everything else about DLP to me seems to accept higher levels with the DVP processing than my JVC. And I just sat there scene after scene in Avatar with the W7000 finally pretty well dialed in to my eyes without formal calibration, and those fairly high settings in Pop mode with my jaw in my lap. No noise, no ringing, nothing of any kind of traditional negative nature. If you on/off the processing at those levels of course you see what is going on with the pixels to achieve the roundness and depth without glasses but it just seems so "worth it". Again long as the source is excellent.
Just am curious that in "your" system that you saw no value, even with with any super clean sources like animated features or a movie such as Avatar....with the full pop mode?

3D Avatar or 2D on the W7000? Just curious.
post #2687 of 7856
Sorry....just in plain old 2D. It was Impressive. 8.5' wide 16x9 image 2.8 HP....going for foot lamberts...running on high lamp setting. Seated about 13' back. I've seen 3D on it as well and of course, yes it is as good as it gets.
post #2688 of 7856
I just got my puppy today and FW version is: 1.3.21

Software version: 2.8.2214

This is the last one (as today) ?

Update: got Radiance mini too.
post #2689 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Now that the review is published I can chime in here if there are any questions. I did finally find a title that I didn't care for the Darblet with, The Last of the Mohicans on Blu-ray. While it looked fine throughout quite a bit of the film, there were moments that just looked a bit off regardless of my setting. But this is a film with some pretty severe lighting changes throughout. Otherwise it has been great. I still stand by the comment about it working its magic the best with extremely high quality transfers, but it has benefitted just about everything I've thrown at it on my projector. I am going to be underwater on a submarine all next week so I won't be responding to any questions during that time for obvious reasons.cool.gif

Seems as though films with a great deal of grain do not allow you to push the Darblet too much. I think that's the case with older releases, especially old B&W films I've viewed to date (The Third Man, sepia toned opening of The Wizard of Oz, etc.). It must be challenging for the Darblet's algorithms to really separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to film grain. Maybe that's why animation does so well in Full Pop, where you're not dealing with the subtleties of real world lighting, etc.

As I recall, The Last of the Mohicans appeared to be a rather dark film, whose hallmark is certainly not luminescence. Another film I recently watched, with the Darblet in line, was The Name of the Rose (1986). It's another soft and gritty and misty looking film, by design. Yet with judicious use of the Darblet even this one can be improved over and above what my RS35 can do.

And with really good OTA sports (not the stuff you get from Comcast or satellite) Full Pop does work nicely, though there are limits in just how far you can push the envelope.

Guess it depends on the content, though I wonder how much the display technology comes into play.
post #2690 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjschaff View Post

Seems as though films with a great deal of grain do not allow you to push the Darblet too much. I think that's the case with older releases, especially old B&W films I've viewed to date (The Third Man, sepia toned opening of The Wizard of Oz, etc.). It must be challenging for the Darblet's algorithms to really separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to film grain. Maybe that's why animation does so well in Full Pop, where you're not dealing with the subtleties of real world lighting, etc.
As I recall, The Last of the Mohicans appeared to be a rather dark film, whose hallmark is certainly not luminescence. Another film I recently watched, with the Darblet in line, was The Name of the Rose (1986). It's another soft and gritty and misty looking film, by design. Yet with judicious use of the Darblet even this one can be improved over and above what my RS35 can do.
And with really good OTA sports (not the stuff you get from Comcast or satellite) Full Pop does work nicely, though there are limits in just how far you can push the envelope.
Guess it depends on the content, though I wonder how much the display technology comes into play.
\

It's been about a month since I received my Darblet from AVS, and must agree that films with a lot of existing film grain can't handle much enhancement. You simply need to dial the Darblet way back. On the other hand, material that really looks good to start will look gorgeous and you can push the Darblet like Gary Reber of WSR does (HD---70). I've found some SD DVD's benefit from the Full Pop mode, but it varies from title to title. At the end of the day I consider an investment of $250-$280 to achieve a 5-10% improvement in a moderately high end system to be a bargain. Going back to the description of the Darblet acting like a 'focus' control without artifacts, I'm happy to report that now I can "turn it up to 11".

Gear List:: JVS RS45 Projector, 110" (16x9) Vutec Bright White Screen (1.3 gain), viewing distance is 9', the room is not a bat-cave, but it is light controlled.
post #2691 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

While this was some great information from DarbeeDR, it seemed a bit dis-jointed to me, so I re-wrote it for my edification and understanding. I am presenting it here in the hopes it helps others to better understand what he said. If you think I have mis-represented the intent of his post, let's discuss it. I have also included the information presented on the internal processing, since we have conflicting information.
Mark
Darbee Darblet Information.docx 24k .docx file

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

Now that the review is published I can chime in here if there are any questions. I did finally find a title that I didn't care for the Darblet with, The Last of the Mohicans on Blu-ray. While it looked fine throughout quite a bit of the film, there were moments that just looked a bit off regardless of my setting. But this is a film with some pretty severe lighting changes throughout. Otherwise it has been great. I still stand by the comment about it working its magic the best with extremely high quality transfers, but it has benefitted just about everything I've thrown at it on my projector. I am going to be underwater on a submarine all next week so I won't be responding to any questions during that time for obvious reasons.cool.gif

Kris,

I would be interested to hear your thoughts aobut about DarbeeDr's comments, which I summarized in the attached document.

Thanks.

Mark
post #2692 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

Update: I decided to purchase another Darblet, thinking it would have more current firmware, and it works just fine with my Netgear NeoTV550 and the Pioneer PDP-5020FD. I have not yet tried this unit with the Lumagen, but I am assuming the "Lumagen fix" is incorporated in this more current unit. For your edification, here are the details for the unit I just received from Solid Signal (AV Science was out of stock):
Software: 2.8.2214
Firmware: 1.3.21
Mark

I installed a Monoprice 1 x 2 HDMI splitter after the Darblet, and the NeoTV550 is all green again, but changing the colorspace on the PDP-5020FD has no affect this time. When I removed the splitter, the NeoTV550 was fine. Argh, gotta love HDMI!

Mark
post #2693 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

Sorry to dredge up this old topic, but I am trying to determine why my experience with the IR input would seem to indicate the above information from DarbeeDR is incorrect.
My Niles IR repeater system worked with the Darbee, but had some odd side effects, as noted above. I checked with Niles Tech Support, and they said the IR info is sent on the tip with their system. According to what DarbeeDR posted, the IR signals would have never made it to the Darblet, at is accepts them on the forward part of the sleeve on a stereo 3.5mm TRS connector. I just don't understand how IR signals from the tip of the mono connector in my Niles system were able to control the Darblet, which supposedly accepts the IR input only from the sleeve of a stereo connector.
Since a picture is sometimes worth a thousand words, here is a diagram and a summary of the various connection details:
Top TRS Connector: Stereo
Bottom TRS Connector: Mono

Common 3.5mm TRS Connections
1. Sleeve: usually ground
2. Ring: Right-hand channel for stereo signals, negative polarity for balanced mono signals, power supply for power-using mono signal sources
3. Tip: Left-hand channel for stereo signals, positive polarity for balanced mono signals, signal line for unbalanced mono signals
4. Insulating rings
Darbee Darblet 3.5mm Stereo TRS Connections (For the IR Input)
1 = Ground
2 = 3.3V IR input
3 = 3.3V VCC Out
Niles 3.5mm Mono TRS Connections (For the Niles IR Repeater System)
1 = Ground
2 = N/A
3 = IR Output
Thanks for any explanation on how it worked for me.
Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

Mark: Please provide more detail with the 3.5 IR cable wink.gifbiggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

Yes,
What cables did you try?
A minor correction - you should label the Niles 3 as IR OUTPUT.
Pay no attention to the "common" 3.5 TRS connections.
If you've tried what you've shown (mono tip connected to stereo ring and both sleeves connected together) it should work but the caveat is the Darbee operates with 3.3V and your Niles unit most likely is 5V. As Dr Darbee warned, this may damaged the Darbee.

I was using a Niles 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male mono cable between my MSU-480 and the Darblet, so I assume it was wired according to the way Niles does it (ground on the sleeve, IR on the tip).

Mark
post #2694 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Do the issues occur if you turn off the Darbee so it's not doing any processing?

Hey Plasmaman, Turn on the pj with no power to the Darby, no signal/image to the pj, and no green screen. If I power up my pj, and Dish 722 with the Darby while set in "no darby mode", no green image there either. My new hdmi switch and new 22 AWG cables didn't help with the issues either. Strange though cycling the switch fixes the issue. Open to more suggestions here.
Edited by jnabq - 8/24/12 at 8:29pm
post #2695 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

I was using a Niles 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male mono cable between my MSU-480 and the Darblet, so I assume it was wired according to the way Niles does it (ground on the sleeve, IR on the tip).
Mark
This would probably work if the mono cable was not fully plugged into the darbee (i.e., the tip would contact the stereo ring if the plug is not fully inserted).

As DR Darbee mentioned anything over 3.3V may damage the darbee. I should have elaborated this before: the damage may not happen immediately - there are too many circuit unknowns to predict if this can happen so I echo Dr Darbee's caution.
post #2696 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

Kris,
I would be interested to hear your thoughts aobut about DarbeeDr's comments, which I summarized in the attached document.
Thanks.
Mark

Keep in mind the manual is very undated: 20120426a (04/26/2012).

Forgot to mention, I tested with a HDMI Matrix (4 input, 2 output) and worked fine here.
post #2697 of 7856
I see SolidSignal at Amazon selling the Darbee for $294. Did they raised the price ? Seems 4-5 days back everyone was buying from Amazon.
post #2698 of 7856
No need for Darbee, just go 8K rolleyes.gif

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-19370582
post #2699 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

I installed a Monoprice 1 x 2 HDMI splitter after the Darblet, and the NeoTV550 is all green again, but changing the colorspace on the PDP-5020FD has no affect this time. When I removed the splitter, the NeoTV550 was fine. Argh, gotta love HDMI!
Mark

I get that occasionally too through monoprice switcher..not splitter. Just turn tv off and then on again works for me when this happens
post #2700 of 7856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

This would probably work if the mono cable was not fully plugged into the darbee (i.e., the tip would contact the stereo ring if the plug is not fully inserted).
As DR Darbee mentioned anything over 3.3V may damage the darbee. I should have elaborated this before: the damage may not happen immediately - there are too many circuit unknowns to predict if this can happen so I echo Dr Darbee's caution.

I am going to stick with the flasher on the front.

Mark
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