Darbee vision darblet - Page 110

Look at text . Then details in crowds.

Aww hell yeah.....you aren't nuts and every display is different. I leave my 2nd Darblet at that same setting on my 61" Samsung LED DLP and hard to find anything objectionable at 9-10' back with the wobulated image to begin with. I only see better picture. On a nice RS50 JVC though with a bright 2.8 HP screen at 8.5' wide 16x9 that can either look spectacular.....or you can have many issues and need to lower the setting or switch to HD and adjust. HD and Game do filtering with the processing of the source to keep artifacts effectively away. Pop is unfiltered. Pristine source no problem if you are after depth to use at more aggressive levels, all determined by the source and size and quality of the display. Or just take the much applauded "clear image" effects zero downside at lower HD levels. Different strokes for each particular system.

you should easily be able to tell in "pop" mode. all modes as far as that goes, but the most dramatic in pop.

Can you get a still picture on your set up?That should clearly show the difference with Darbee on or off in all settings but especially over 50 settings in gaming or full pop.If you see no change send it back.You have a defective unit.

No difference at all. I took over to my neighbor who has a 70" Sharp (70LE8470) and tried there also. No change. 4 persons told "No difference" (or) can't tell any.

No matter if it is POP or Game , no difference.

Still I pay the return shipping, correct?

Thanks

Yeah..l'd bet it's defective. It should be very easy to tell the differences between the modes and levels of Darbletization. The better the signal fed, the better the results. Blu-ray generally shows it off better than Hi-def TV.

When I first read this I agreed, as I had the same impression when I tested the Darbee on some anime. My usual HD or Gaming 50% setting showed hardly any difference, and Full Pop showed obvious bridging artifacts. However, last night I happened to be watching some anime and tried turning it up to Gaming 80%. The result is the kind of improvement I'm used to on other content, an obvious improvement with no obvious artifacts. Very nice. It just goes to show again that, as we've been told, different content deserves different settings.

I would imagine if the unit is defective they will send you out another and pay for shipping both ways.Contact the vendor you bought it from first.

Thanks, I will try over the weekend. I bought it from AVSCIENCE & I will call them on monday. I don't think they are there on saturdays. Are they open on phone on saturday? Anyone>? Thanks

What content were you using? So far, I've tested it with HTTYD, Tangled 3D, and Person of Interest. The first two showed great new detail, especially Tangled 3D in the background/small elements. However, I've also tested it with cable (I wanted to thank the poster who told me that Comcast won't have the benefits that DirecTV would), and the differences are negligible.

Try the "demo" mode, and see if you're certain there isn't a change. If there isn't, your Darbee is having some issues.

I tried various settings with Lion King (1080p) and within a non offensive range made almost zero difference. I then tried with Aladdin (720p) and again almost no difference, certainly not enough to justify the device mainly for anime content.

So it's more likely "different content deserves different settings" on different displays.

Jason

Got mine today, hooked it up, and I must say I think this thing is snake oil.

I have perfectly calibrated Sammy PN59D8000 and while I didn't hink I'd be wowed I expected to see some difference but I tell you there is bubkis. I tried settings as high as 85 on HD setting and they looked no different than off.

One disclaimer -- I only tried watching various HD content from my TiVo (Comcast)...but I tried tennis, and movies, and videos, and golf, and cartoons, and news, and yada yada, and still zero noticable impact even in split screen demo mode.

For basically a $300 device, you'd think even if it is not Blu Ray content (which I've yet to try), you'd see some benefit in a 1080p60 picture from Comcast on TiVo but you get nothing.

Just sharing my disappointing experince after hearing all the hype...

Try the slider demo. I see a massive difference (I don't mean night and day, I just mean everything appears clearer and more "focused"). That's with Comcast cable, watching the San Francisco Giants game in HD. They'll have long shots of the crowd, and if you can't see the enhancements there, then I don't know what to say.

By the way, I have a PND597000, calibrated but not by a professional (rather by about two dozen recommended settings until I found the best one). I'm about to get mine calibrated for free from Best Buy Geek Squad in a couple of weeks. No, still not even close to perfect... but free is free.

Either way, it's not snake oil.
Edited by muffinmcfluffin - 9/7/12 at 8:33pm

Just received mine today, yeah. How do you turn OFF the "Darbee xx%" white box that will burn into my plasma???

It's unfortunate you don't see the difference but when so many others do then it's not hype nor snake oil, it's probably more you and your set up. I can see clear differences with HD content. Perhaps my pj is just lacking what the Darblet delivers. It's subtle since once you set it you have nothing to compare it to. Going way up to above 100 to see the negative effects then dialing it back helped me figure out where the Darblet was doing it's work. Background and small detail was enhanced in my set up giving the image more depth. Look at background walls or trees for improved detail. Up close check out wrinkles and skin imperfections. This is what I notice most on the Darblet. Fast action stuff goes by too fast for me to compare anything. Watch a scene without the Darblet. Rewind. Jack the Darblet up to 100 and see how it affects the image. If you can't see a difference then something is wrong. Whether a setting below 100 is worth the money to you is subjective but the Darblet does affect the picture (negatively imho at the higher levels). So you should see your Darblet do something. If not, hope you bought it from somewhere with an exchange policy.

Menu -> Settings -> Logo Properties -> Not Persistent

Thanks. I'm still experimenting, but WOW, so far I'm very happy about this purchase. Last month I bought a Panasonic 65GT50. Picture is nice but NOT sharp. Very SOFT. Very disappointing. This little Darbee thingy is wonderful. I cannot believe that Panasonic cannot build in something like this to sharpen the picture. So far., I'm a very happy camper. I'll keep experimenting ... hopefully by Monday, I'll still feel like this is a little miracle box.

I guess I'll have to disagree, because the improvement on anime was definitely there, it was just a matter of ramping up the Darbee to see it. I could see it affecting things like eyes, hair, clothing, etc. It seems to depend on how much 3Dness is drawn into the various elements. Of course, modern Japanese anime is a different style of animation than the Lion King or Aladdin, and that might make the difference. I don't have either of those so unfortunately I can't test it for myself.

If it matters, I'm watching on a 90" screen with my Mitsubishi HC3800 DLP projector. That said, the improvements I saw were obvious and I think they'd be plainly visible on any display. I doubt anyone is considering the Darbee just for anime anyway, but I think we should be careful about drawing too broad of a brush about where the Darbee is and isn't effective. The early word was that the Darbee was mainly good for projectors, or for projectors lacking in sharpness, which has led to a lot of people posting with doubts about whether it would be worth it for their DLP, plasma, LCD, etc. Now I think it's been pretty well established that the Darbee is worth it for just about any display (though still probably more noticeable on big screens, because everything is more noticeable on big screens). Likewise, I wouldn't want people to assume it's not good for anime or animation as a whole, because improvements are definitely there depending on the content, scene, Darbee setting, etc.

I think it's not only more noticeable on a big screen, but more made for the big screen. When a smaller screen gets the contrast enhancements, it might be a little bit jarring for every bit of information to be so close to each other. On a larger screen, you get the improved image with every pixel separated a bit more. It won't look too fine for your own good.

That said, I'm on a 59" screen, and have trouble going over 50% for anything. I want to be able to, especially for animated films. But everything looks too good for my screen size. On a larger screen, it would be just fine.

Oh I was not debating with you, just trying to be helpful.

I do stand by my statement after trying more content that the addition of a darblet primarily for anime (since I know there are a huge number of fans out there) simply may not be worth the investment since the degree of gain is not of the same level as other types of video.

For what it's worth I viewed on a 60" and a 133".

* Just watched some Family Guy and same result, hardly any variance unless going to POP mode and pushing the level past 50 (in which case things can get messy).

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Onto another topic...

I must say it's shocking to hear anyone say they cannot see any difference as it's very obvious to me even on moderate levels on multiple displays.

I can see some not liking it but not being able to detect any difference at all sounds like something is possibly defective.


Jason
Edited by DaGamePimp - 9/8/12 at 12:39am

Wow!!! Thanks a million for posting these Hex Codes! I was about to post a question on this forum asking for the same thing. I have a URC MX-980 and I tried to learn the codes to the URC and I had nothing but problems. This is the first time ever that I've had a problem learning commands to multiple URC remotes (MX-500, 700, 900, 980, etc). But the Hex codes work perfectly! Thanks a bunch! I really appreciate you posting these.

Mitch

I really think your darbee is defective. Look at these excellent screenshots here (mouse over the image after it loads to see the darbee on/off image)>>

You should be seeing what the comparison above shows. Also, note, those screenshots have the darbee only at 45%.

I just got my darbee today, and I'm very impressed! I have a 32" LCD and a Mits HC3800 projector (80" screen) in a small room. Haven't had the chance to fire up the PJ yet, but even 9ft from my small 32" LED LCD (Sharp 32LE700) I can clearly see the difference. So far with HD cable I'm toggling between 65% game or pop mode. I think that since its only a 32" screen from 9ft seating, I can get away with more % on the darbee?

I'm so impressed (toggling between on/off) that I'm even suspecting that the 'off' mode isn't a pure bypass! As if the darbee screws up the 'off' mode a little to make the 'on' mode look good/better!?!? Ok, probably not, but it's hard to test this 'cos you have to unplug the darbee out of the chain to hardwire bypass it---no quick easy way to A/B. Perhaps someone more suspicious than me has already tested this theory?

I suspect the improvement is gonna be even better on my PJ, yet I can't imagine how much better it can be from what I'm already seeing on a puny 32"!!

My next issue is how to have the darbee on both displays. I have a 4 x 2 hdmi monoprice switcher (blu/cable/dvd on the 'in', 32" LCD and PJ on the 2 'outs'), so I think I'd have to get another darbee if I want it on both displays

The other thought was a 1 in, 2 out hdmi splitter? http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011303&p_id=2522&seq=1&format=2 I could connect splitter on just one of the outs of my monoprice switcher, it then splits it into 2 outs (put the darbee between the monoprice out and splitter). I'm just worried about handshaking, since I will only have 1 display on at once. Any thoughts?
Or the powered splitters http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011306&p_id=8204&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011306&p_id=8153&seq=1&format=2
Just trying to avoid another powered device

This is the monoprice switcher I have now> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5312&seq=1&format=2 Even though it's a powered switcher, I don't think it boosts the hdmi signal, it's just switched with power (has a remote, etc.).

??

fleaman,

I have tested a 1x2 and a 1x4, they both work without issue on the Darblet output, if that helps at all. One of the outs on the 1x4 even then goes to a wireless HDMI transmitter and sends signal across the room to a 3D plasma and everything functions as it should, including 3D (and of course the darblet 'effect').

Jason

I had posted weeks earlier that once in a blue moon, my darblet would stop processing - on/off, 0 or 100, there was no difference - it was jus passing through the original signal even though it otherwise seemed operational.

If you haven't already, unplug the power for 30 seconds, plug it back, and see what happens.

There is a definite difference - you can make things look BAD with the darblet if you play around, so to see nothing means a fleeting glitch or real defect, I would think.
Edited by thrang - 9/8/12 at 5:43am

That's odd. I had no issues teaching my MX900 from the Darbee remote.

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I would recommend pausing the image on a facial closeup and turning the Darbee on and off. Pay attention to facial detail and the hair. I use my Darbee in a projector setup but I tried it on my 40" Samsung LCD and I could see the difference with it off and on. The on/off comparison does not seem as dramatic as it does on my projector but it is noticeable and does improve the image. On my projector I use 40% HD - on the Samsung I had to crank it up to see similar results but I rather liked 40% Pop on the Samsung during the short time I had it connected to that set.

I got mine and put it on an Optoma HD20 DLP Projector. Looks great. I'm running it at 80% full pop. Little artifacting on text on the menus for Dish Hopper and on Call of Duty but the moving video and moving text looks great.

I have the following inputs: HTPC, Pioneer BDP51fd, Dish Hopper and Xbox 360 all run through a Pioneer VSX820>Darbee>Optoma HD20

I am dumfounded by the comment that nothing can be seen for a difference. It has to be a defective unit.

My Darbee reset while I was adjusting the LED brightness. It came back on at 100% full pop and the LED was fully bright again. Hmmmmmmm

I do not think this is a mass retail product due to its cheesiness in the build of the case/remote (I was prepared for it but was still surprised by its ugliness) I have handled a ton of bootleg junk electronics off the streets in Hong Kong and Korea (when I was in the Navy) and thats what it feels like. Its going to be a tough sell to someone who doesn't know about it previously.

I fully recommend it to the nerds like us on AVS. Its awesome.

Geeks, not nerds.....geeks....

Found artifacts in HD, Game, Pop with luma plate test in Spears and Munsil Test BluRay.
Pop had less than HD.

The demo on that disk looked fine at Pop 50% or more and was an improvement for POP off.

The chroma plates looked fine. There were some artifacts in the wedge test in HD, less in POP..

In real Fios tv use for HD vieiwing POP seems best at levels depending on content. I used 70% last night for the Nats Marlin game.
Unit gets a bit hot in use . At the moment I am leaving it on all the time.
I have the LEDs off and the logo set to go off so unit is not easily seen in my setup.

Warranty of 90 days is far to short but perhaps the upgradable means we can get exchanges as the firmware is improved.

Integra 80.2 out to Darbee on to Kuru 151 that is calibrated.

Sources are Fios 7132 HDVR box and Oppo 83.

Your impressions are indeed helpful, I only mean to give a second opinion. These things are subjective, and it's possible I simply have a higher tolerance for Darbee artifacts for example. However, I spent some time viewing anime again tonight and I still have to differ with your conclusion above. Provided the setting is high enough, I find the Darbee improves anime just as much as other content (without noticeable artifacts). Depth is enhanced and the image seems to come into focus. I find it to be just as valuable as with other content.

I'd also like to note that the examples you've given, The Lion King, Aladdin, and Family Guy are animation but not anime. Japanese anime is a different style from western animation and I do think it has more 3Dness baked into it that the Darbee can make use of.