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Darbee vision darblet - Page 12

post #331 of 6133
My Darblet just arrived. Thanks AVS store!

I'm going to try it out tonight. One issue and a question: My source components are in another room down the hall from my projection room. I won't be able immediately integrate the Darblet commands into my universal remote control so I have to place the Darblet in the room with the projector, to use it's supplied remote. I have a 45 foot HDMI run that starts at my source components and ends at my projector. Can I just insert the Darblet at the projector end, between the HDMI cable and the projector HDMI input?

Thanks.
post #332 of 6133
I believe DD recommended placing the Darblet near the source. If placement near the source doesn't work for you then try it at the PJ end.

I received the following suggestion a while back from Jim Peterson at Lumagen regarding minimum cable length. If you need to add a short run of HDMI cable to install the Darblet you may want to keep this in mind:

"Make sure the cable is at least 6 feet long. All HDMI chips are EQ'd and they appear to be EQ'd for longer cables. We have seen a number of cases where a longer cable (10 to 15 feet) worked much better than a 3 foot cable. Six feet seems to be fine."
post #333 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

I believe DD recommended placing the Darblet near the source. If placement near the source doesn't work for you then try it at the PJ end.

I received the following suggestion a while back from Jim Peterson at Lumagen regarding minimum cable length. If you need to add a short run of HDMI cable to install the Darblet you may want to keep this in mind:

"Make sure the cable is at least 6 feet long. All HDMI chips are EQ'd and they appear to be EQ'd for longer cables. We have seen a number of cases where a longer cable (10 to 15 feet) worked much better than a 3 foot cable. Six feet seems to be fine."

The Darbee folks advised me to place the unit at the source end - I am in the same position with a long 50' run from the AVR equip. room thru the ceiling out to the pj. That's what I did and it works fine. This is the first I've heard about using 6' HDMI cables and hope that only applies in this instance to the Lumagen for whatever reason. I have a series of 3' HDMI 1.4a cables connecting my AVR/Oppo93/Darblet/etc on the rack. At the time I switched out to 1.4a cables (recently) I hadn't seen any such warning on short length. In fact, I concluded shorter was probably better for signal and for tidiness to avoid the spider's web. Hope I haven't wasted a bunch of money!

I now have 2 Darblets - AVS just sent mine 2nd one today - and I'm awaiting its arrival to include in my upstairs system.
post #334 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by flint350 View Post

The Darbee folks advised me to place the unit at the source end - I am in the same position with a long 50' run from the AVR equip. room thru the ceiling out to the pj. That's what I did and it works fine. This is the first I've heard about using 6' HDMI cables and hope that only applies in this instance to the Lumagen for whatever reason. I have a series of 3' HDMI 1.4a cables connecting my AVR/Oppo93/Darblet/etc on the rack. At the time I switched out to 1.4a cables (recently) I hadn't seen any such warning on short length. In fact, I concluded shorter was probably better for signal and for tidiness to avoid the spider's web. Hope I haven't wasted a bunch of money!

I now have 2 Darblets - AVS just sent mine 2nd one today - and I'm awaiting its arrival to include in my upstairs system.

Swapping out 3ft to 6ft HDMI cable do solve my Rad-XD 3D skipping issue with Oppo BDP-93 with JVC RS55. Notice that I do have to be specific in my equipment because I have no problem with 3ft cable using PS3 in the same setup, and I have no problem in 2D situation. So, I guess this "could" happen in some instances, but it is not a "must" per se.
post #335 of 6133
Got my darblet just an hr ago. Tested with my age-old Hitachi plasma. my setup:
sources (dish) -> Lumagen XD --> Pioneer AVR VSX21 --> Darblet --> Hitachi 720p 55" Plasma

Source is outputing 720p to Lumagen and all the way to Hitachi Plasma.
I saw some improvement. Watching French Open using DISH does not give much improvement. However, when I am switching over to Avatar, I do see good improvement using Hi-Def 60%. Full Pop on some scenes do POP quite a bit, but at some scenes give artifacts. The effect at Full POP is quite a lot more than Hi-Def...
So, my limited testing so far is that it is not quite worth it for my 55" 720 plasma setup, especially if I am watching it during daytime.

I am going to try my JVC RS55 setup (which is 1080p all the way) later at night. Since i am projecting to a 130" 2.4 screen, i am hoping to see more improvement and in an almost pitch dark environment (walls are white though..).
post #336 of 6133
BTW, if i can recommend, I think the form factor and the way the port is located make it hard for me to put inside my cabinet. Currently, the HDMI IN and OUT are on the side, while the control and the IR are on the front.. It will be much better if the HDMI IN/OUT are at the back (just like all equipment!) so i can position my darblet easier for IR reception.
post #337 of 6133
BTW, does Harmony already have remote code for this? If yes, which category?
post #338 of 6133
I had an hr last night to test my Oppo 93 + Lumagen XD + Darblet + RS55 combo. I put it near the source and my HDMI run is about 25 ft.
The improvement looks much better on the RS55 than on my Plasma. I think the major factor is being the screen size/viewing distance. I am sitting about 1.2-1.3 SW, and so even some subtle effect is much clearer than my 55" plasma (which I think I am at least 4-5 SW away).
The Darblet is really good at accentuate the facial part of image. For example, the wrinkles, the facial hairs, hairs, shape looks "sharper". I can also agree that there does not seem to be color shift, and merely playing around with the luminance. This is at least the case for using Hi-Def mode. Full Pop I do think it might change some of the color, but I guess if you mess with Luminance too much, the effect might look like a shift of color. I personally cannot stand using full pop on movies. I ended up using Hi-def at around 65-70. It does have a positive effect on the image and I think as some user mentioned earlier, it is like lifting a "soft silk" or removing the soft lens (i.e. appears sharper). I was using superLeo demo disks and on scenes like Narnia Voyager, the dragon eyes and skin looks very clean with Darbee.. On Fifth Element, the wrinkles and facial details looks much better... etc.

To summarize, the effect will be much greater if you viewing distance is close to the screen (1-1.5SW). i think the effect is quite minimal if you are over 3-4 SW away.
Stay with Hi-Def as full pop do create artifact, even at pretty low settings (I try 40 and I can still discern some artifacts), at least for movie viewing. I have not try full-pop on sports and others yet.

The other complaints I have is what I listed above already about the HDMI port and IR location. It is very hard for me to have the Darblet IR facing me, while having the HDMI port going in the left and right. I might need some angled HDMI port to help me align better. Also, the IR port is not that sensitive as I have a hard time making it get a signal when I am sitting about 13ft away. Granted that once you dialed in, you might not change it too much, but at least initially,it is a pain...

Overall, I think it is worth the $$$ for me to improve on my RS55. The effect is there and can be easily seen as making the image sharper. Facial features are more pronounce which I like, and do make my RS55 "looks" sharper. I am not going to buy another one for my 55" plasma though, as I really have a hard time seeing the difference sitting at 4SW away (I do see the difference if I walk up close to it though).
post #339 of 6133
Interesting read Fight4yu,
I recall UMR was of the same opinion regarding Plasmas, but like you prefered the Darblet/JVC Combo..
Sense I still Run CRT Projectors Im interested to see if the Darblet is A good combo or less effective compared to Digital projectors..

Are you going to perform A quick post calibration run for confirmation that there is no decernable color/Gamma shift with the Darbee in the Video chain @ your chosen setting "Hi-def at around 65-70" ?...
post #340 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by cinema mad View Post

Interesting read Fight4yu,
I recall UMR was of the same opinion regarding Plasmas, but like you prefered the Darblet/JVC Combo..
Sense I still Run CRT Projectors Im interested to see if the Darblet is A good combo or less effective compared to Digital projectors..

Are you going to perform A quick post calibration run for confirmation that there is no decernable color/Gamma shift with the Darbee in the Video chain @ your chosen setting "Hi-def at around 65-70" ?...

I don't have time yesterday to do any calibration, but I did play the AVS disks, and the black/white/grayscale does not seem to change at least to my naked eye.
I might do a calibration (with Darbee ON and OFF) next weekend just to confirm. I don't think there is any color shift, but I somehow think the GAMMA might shift a bit, as they already mentioned they are playing around with the Luminance.. and given what I see, it do seem like they make certain area "brighter", hence creating contrast and make it look "sharper".
post #341 of 6133
We were doing some Amazon demand older movies and using the Darblet with the Sony 790 the differences were night and day. I forgot how many movies in the 80s had a ton of credits right at the start. The letters looked so sharp they were just about 3D like. The actors faces were much more clearer. It is very easy for me to walk behind my rack and switch between Blu ray and Directv but if it weren't I can see why many are buying two!
post #342 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

We were doing some Amazon demand older movies and using the Darblet with the Sony 790 the differences were night and day. I forgot how many movies in the 80s had a ton of credits right at the start. The letters looked so sharp they were just about 3D like. The actors faces were much more clearer. It is very easy for me to walk behind my rack and switch between Blu ray and Directv but if it weren't I can see why many are buying two!

You don't use the hdmi out from your receiver to the hdmi in on the darbee and then another hdmi cable in the hdmi out on the darbee to your projector? I just ordered one and was planning to hook mine up that way
post #343 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

My Radiance is configured to output YCbCr 4:2:2 and my JVC RS60 was hard-coded to accept the same color space. The colors were way off when the Darblet was first inserted between those two devices. Changing the RS60's color space setting from YCbCr 4:2:2 to "Auto" resolved the wonky color issue.

Other than that, the Darblet shouldn't have caused the other symptoms you describe, especially after you removed it from the video chain. Leave the Darblet out of your system until you sort out the other issues. Connect the Radiance to the same input on the Mits that it used to be in (HDMI 4). Ensure that the Radiance is set to the proper output mode (1A ?) and output resolution. The Mits calibration might not apply to every input or for every resolution. For example, if your set was calibrated on Input 4 at 1080P resolution, I don't know if your set holds that calibration if you switch to HDMI 3 or if your Radiance is now outputting 480i. Perhaps the Mits calibration would "disappear" if the color space was changed? Try switching the Radiance output between YCbCr and RGB to see if that makes a difference. Power cycling the Mits might help. In any case, it's not a Darblet issue if you're still having problems when it's disconnected. Good luck!


Well I tested the darblet with a VP-50 Pro and same thing happened. I could not get the Mits to recognize HDMI input 4 until I left the tv off for 24 hours. I then tested the darblet on my Epson 6500 -again it reset the projector to factory default setting. Fortunately I could recover since I can save my calibration to memory on the Epson -something I cannnot do with the the Mits tv. Something strange is going on
post #344 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by jslaw81 View Post

You don't use the hdmi out from your receiver to the hdmi in on the darbee and then another hdmi cable in the hdmi out on the darbee to your projector? I just ordered one and was planning to hook mine up that way

I would if I were not using a VP. Instead I use the VP's out into the Darblet. The Receivers out goes into the VP then the VP heads to the Darblet. I may soon take the VP out of the equation but I plan to do some more A/Bs before I decide. If I do then the Receiver will go straight into the Darblet.
post #345 of 6133
I agree about the difference in enhancement on a projector/screen vs. a plasma, but it was still enough for me to order a 2nd Darbee. Mostly because my big HT is a 20' X 36' dedicated room downstairs and my Kuro Plasma is upstairs. I found myself unplugging and moving the Darblet btwn settings too much, so went for a 2nd one. Lazy.

Next week I should have both the new Darblet and a little something new I bought from joerod (3009) to wire into my HT which will give me a project that should result in improved image and sound. It never ends....
post #346 of 6133
First impressions are positive and I'll post some more detail later. But for the moment:
I'm dealing with some brutal handshake issues. Having put the Darblet in the system earlier, I spent, like, 45 minutes with guests tapping their feet waiting for the movie to start, turning every combination of equipment on/off to get sync with my Blu-Ray player. Massive bummer.

As I mentioned: I have my sources - cable box, HD DVD player, Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player, running into my Denon AV reciever, which outputs along a 45 foot (or is it 50?) HDMI run from my projector in another room. So I had to put the Darblet in the projector room end of the chain in order to try it with it's remote control. I used a 6 foot additional HDMI cable to go from end of my long HDMI cable, into the Darblet, out the 6 foot HDMI cable to my projector.

There is no problem getting signal for my cable box and HD DVD player, but the Oppo just doesn't seem to want to sync (like...once out of every 8 tries!) with the Darblet in the chain.

Eventually I will be putting it at the source end, right after my AV receiver and boy I hope that solves the issues because I like the Darblet. But for now, any ideas? Any reasons why the Darblet would cause these issues only for my Oppo Blu Ray player?

Thanks.
post #347 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmassie View Post

Well I tested the darblet with a VP-50 Pro and same thing happened. I could not get the Mits to recognize HDMI input 4 until I left the tv off for 24 hours. I then tested the darblet on my Epson 6500 -again it reset the projector to factory default setting. Fortunately I could recover since I can save my calibration to memory on the Epson -something I cannnot do with the the Mits tv. Something strange is going on

Disconnect the Darblet. Play a Blu-ray and view the Lumagen's Status Screen, eg.:



Note the Input parameters. Connect the Darblet between your Blu-ray player and the Lumagen and open the Status Screen again. Have the Input parameters changed? If so, perhaps your displays do not maintain their calibration settings when the input parameters change (YCbCr 422 -> RGB).
post #348 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

First impressions are positive and I'll post some more detail later. But for the moment:
I'm dealing with some brutal handshake issues. Having put the Darblet in the system earlier, I spent, like, 45 minutes with guests tapping their feet waiting for the movie to start, turning every combination of equipment on/off to get sync with my Blu-Ray player. Massive bummer.

As I mentioned: I have my sources - cable box, HD DVD player, Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player, running into my Denon AV reciever, which outputs along a 45 foot (or is it 50?) HDMI run from my projector in another room. So I had to put the Darblet in the projector room end of the chain in order to try it with it's remote control. I used a 6 foot additional HDMI cable to go from end of my long HDMI cable, into the Darblet, out the 6 foot HDMI cable to my projector.

There is no problem getting signal for my cable box and HD DVD player, but the Oppo just doesn't seem to want to sync (like...once out of every 8 tries!) with the Darblet in the chain.

Eventually I will be putting it at the source end, right after my AV receiver and boy I hope that solves the issues because I like the Darblet. But for now, any ideas? Any reasons why the Darblet would cause these issues only for my Oppo Blu Ray player?

An HDMI Repeater might help if it's a signal strength issue:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description
post #349 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

An HDMI Repeater might help if it's a signal strength issue:

Nope... I had a HDMI repeater issue. I was running a signal from my Onkyo TX-NR906 to a repeater. The repeater is connected to a 30 ft HDMI cable to my JVC-RS1. I originally setup the Darbee at the projector end for convenience and testing. Everything worked fine. I then moved the Darbee between the AVR and HDMI repeater and got absolutely no signal... no audio in the AVR and no video to the JVC. Weird that the audio was affected. I was switching cables all over and still no luck. The signal came back when I took the HDMI repeater out of the loop.

Other than that, everything was great... I am using the HD mode on the Darbee... I seem to like the setting between 65-75. Any higher and the darkened edges gets annoying on some scenes. I did notice on some really fast moving scenes or panning, there was some blocking artifacts or lag on screen.
post #350 of 6133
What I don't understand is why only my Oppo Blu-Ray player is having issues. All my sources are routed through the output of my AV receiver, so it's a single output going to the Darbee to the projector. So why do I not also have the same sync problems when I switch to my HD DVD source or cable box source, via my AV receiver?
post #351 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

Disconnect the Darblet. Play a Blu-ray and view the Lumagen's Status Screen, eg.:



Note the Input parameters. Connect the Darblet between your Blu-ray player and the Lumagen and open the Status Screen again. Have the Input parameters changed? If so, perhaps your displays do not maintain their calibration settings when the input parameters change (YCbCr 422 -> RGB).

the lumagen info did not change but no matter where I put the darblet in the chain the display reports the incoming signal differently then with the darblet out of the chain - for instance - the epson projectors will normally report the incoming signal as 1080p component -this is normal. However when I put the darblet in the chain- it reports the incoming signal as RGB-Video an all the settings default to factory settings. Any idea what this means?
post #352 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmassie View Post

the lumagen info did not change but no matter where I put the darblet in the chain the display reports the incoming signal differently then with the darblet out of the chain - for instance - the epson projectors will normally report the incoming signal as 1080p component -this is normal. However when I put the darblet in the chain- it reports the incoming signal as RGB-Video an all the settings default to factory settings. Any idea what this means?

I'm confused. You connected the Darblet between the Blu-ray player & it's input on the Lumagen. The Lumagen status still displayed "Color Fmt: YCbCr 422 (Input) YCbCr 422 (Output)" - no change, while your projector's status screen showed that the color space changed from component to RGB? The projector's input should show the same color space as the Lumagen's output if the Darblet was connected to the Lumagen input.

Perhaps DD could shed some light on the color space change. Ideally the Darblet would output the same color space that was on the input. If it doesn't, that may be responsible for the issues you're seeing.
post #353 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

I'm confused. You connected the Darblet between the Blu-ray player & it's input on the Lumagen. The Lumagen status still displayed "Color Fmt: YCbCr 422 (Input) YCbCr 422 (Output)" - no change, while your projector's status screen showed that the color space changed from component to RGB? The projector's input should show the same color space as the Lumagen's output if the Darblet was connected to the Lumagen input.

Perhaps DD could shed some light on the color space change. Ideally the Darblet would output the same color space that was on the input. If it doesn't, that may be responsible for the issues you're seeing.

That is exactly whats happening - no matter where I put the darblet in the chain once the signal exits the darblet, the color space changes - in any event I am sending the darblet back for analysis and exchange
post #354 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmassie View Post

That is exactly whats happening - no matter where I put the darblet in the chain once the signal exits the darblet, the color space changes - in any event I am sending the darblet back for analysis and exchange

I just played around with this a little more. I verified that my Radiance and BD player are both configured to output YCbCr 422. If the Darblet is installed after the Radiance the colors on the pj only appear correct if it's set to the RGB or "Auto" color space settings.

I recabled to place the Darblet between my BD player & the Radiance. The image then appeared green no matter what color space the pj was set for. The Radiance was reporting YCbCr 422 on both the input & output even though the Darblet outputs RGB. The colors normalized after the Darblet was cabled back where it had been between the Radiance & the pj.

Perhaps fiddling with the connections or power cycling the gear would have cleared the green screen when the Darblet was connected to the Radiance's input. At this point I'm more interested in watching movies than troubleshooting so I guess I'm content to remain confused for now...
post #355 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

I'm confused. You connected the Darblet between the Blu-ray player & it's input on the Lumagen. The Lumagen status still displayed "Color Fmt: YCbCr 422 (Input) YCbCr 422 (Output)" - no change, while your projector's status screen showed that the color space changed from component to RGB? The projector's input should show the same color space as the Lumagen's output if the Darblet was connected to the Lumagen input.

Perhaps DD could shed some light on the color space change. Ideally the Darblet would output the same color space that was on the input. If it doesn't, that may be responsible for the issues you're seeing.

This is an important issue for us because it casts a poor light on our technology and product. Despite the the fact that the software for our HDMI handling was designed by world class HDMI specialists, you may have run up against a previously unencountered corner condition regarding the passing of color space information. Sorry that we don't have a comprehensive answer by this time, our technical team is still assessing the issue and we will have a response soon.
-DD
post #356 of 6133
It seems like my Darblet was taking the YCbCr 422 input, outputting it as RGB, but advertising it as YCbCr 422 on the EDID.
post #357 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by flint350 View Post


Next week I should have both the new Darblet and a little something new I bought from joerod (3009) to wire into my HT which will give me a project that should result in improved image and sound. It never ends....

The Darblet and the Onkyo 3009 work happily together. The 3009 has an excellent VP built in so combine it with a Darblet and !
post #358 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

First impressions are positive and I'll post some more detail later. But for the moment:
I'm dealing with some brutal handshake issues.

Rich, that's a bummer that you are having issues just with the Oppo for handshake and I hope you get it worked out.

I'm sure you and Zombie will both give impressions, as no one else has yet but hopefully will as well, as to how the DVP looks both in conjunction with E-shift and in comparison to using E-shift off and only the Darblet.

I think with bright sports you will love it at higher settings in Full Pop and no one can beat you up for being a heretic and OMG using some pixels differently than what that director "intended". Even if it makes his transfer better to your eyes at some setting, plus gives you the look of a DLP with your LCOS projector, if you choose.
post #359 of 6133
Quote:
Originally Posted by henrich3 View Post

It seems like my Darblet was taking the YCbCr 422 input, outputting it as RGB, but advertising it as YCbCr 422 on the EDID.

Yes -that is what is happening to me with both my lumagen and VP50 pro
post #360 of 6133
Hopefully I'll end up with a solution for the Blu-Ray handshake issue because it would be a shame not to be able to use this thing, now that I've experimented with it.

I think I'll just be repeating what everyone else says if I describe what it seems to do. At first I was a bit underwhelmed is inserting it into the chain. I did notice a difference in sharpness (on Hi-Def and Pop modes) but not necessarily a "wow." It didn't immediately seem like it was a difference I'd know was there unless I actually A-B'd the processing in on/off mode.

But over time I really came to appreciate it's effects as I watched more material I'm familiar with. Like everyone else says, the effect is to sharpen up the image and along with that increase the sense of dimensionality in doing so, but pushing the settings too high can start to make the image look obviously enhanced, where I can't help but be thinking I'm seeing the Darblet processing rather than how the actual image was shot.

Although I haven't done a lot of testing in the "Pop" mode, I did notice it tended to add a more aggressive look, with more obvious haloing or rising of the bright contoured areas, whereas the Hi-Def mode was more subtle - the brightness of the neighboring brightness areas wasn't pushed as bright, but it was still enough to increase the perception of sharpness and depth.
So I stuck with the HiDef mode, and tended to use between 30 to 70 percent adjustment, mostly around 35 to 50.

Even at a setting of 30 when I A/B the image it looks like, as others have said, a scrim of softness is removed from the image with the Darblet engaged. Clearer detail, like putting a better lens on the image.

As I've mentioned, I own the JVC RS55 projector, which does an optical/processing trick of increasing pixel count to 4K, and then offers it's own level of processing to further increase sharpness and dimensionality. The processing is merely under the label "MPC" settings, from 1-3. Like the Darblet, these MPC controls do not seem exactly like sharpness or standard detail enhancement controls (the JVC offers those separately as well). The processing seems to do something similar to the Darblet: some sort of playing with gamma or contrast at fine levels, to bring out visible detail, sharpness etc. Putting the MPC levels at +3 really does subtly but distinctly make the image look more dimensional and sharper, like you can see all the way into the background for fine detail.

Since the Darblet would be expected to have a similar result I wanted to compare the two. I chose a scene from Avatar, the shot were Steven Lang (Colonal Quaritch) finishes pumping weights and sits up to talk to Jake. It's a nice long shot with tons of available detail, with his figure against a fairly dark background - great for increasing dimensionality.

This showed what I liked and didn't like about the Darblet processing. The overhead lighting on Lang places fairly bright highlights on his nose area. This is just the type of area in an image were, if calibration or processing is aggressive (e.g. contrast set too high, clipping etc) you start getting that too stark or clipped white cheaper video look to an image, vs a more balanced film look. As I turned up the Darblet and the contrast increased, Lang's skin became more palpable and "there" and detail came out in his hair and face. But at the same time those bright highlights around his nose started becoming so bright and pronounced they became distractingly artificial - it started looking pushed, processed, unnatural and more video-like vs film like or real.

This was a sort of worst-case scenario type shot for the Darblet in terms of introducing this effect, but I wanted to get a good idea of what is going on.
As I remember, the Darblet dialed to around 30 or 35 visibly increased image clarity on this shot, while not looking too video like. But if I were to take the movie as a whole, I could leave it dialed up higher, say 45 to 60, and in most instances it made the image more detailed and clear without screaming "processing."

In comparison, the JVC RS55 projector's MPC processing was, to my eye, more natural and subtle. Dialing it up increased the perception of image detail, dimensionality etc, but looking directly at details like those nose high-lights, they did not start "burning up" in intensity in any obvious way and didn't seem to alter the integrity of the image as much. But then, it also doesn't offer the degree of enhancement the Darblet offers, and I really came to appreciate the extra kick of the Darblet on various material, including sports (like the UFC).

For me the real "aha" moment was when I finally tried the JVC's MPC processing in combination with the Darblet. Taking that Avatar shot I spoke of, and a few others like close ups of Jake's face, I dialed up the Darblet to just were it was enhancing the image, but once it started to give an obvious high-lighted effect, I backed off. But then I started to engaged the projector's MPC settings and I saw the clarity and detail further increase but WITHOUT the Darblet's cost of the high-lights getting too artificial looking. It was like putting on that final lens when getting my eyes tested that snapps everything into perfect focus.

For me this is when the image on my screen really took off. It was just astoundingly clear and sharp, but generally there was very little additional image noise (in fact I started to wonder if the Darblet does any noise reduction, since it somehow made the MPC processing look even smoother than normal). Movies like Alien still looked quite cinematic, but with a Holy Cow new level of solidity, clarity and dimensionality.

Although my system is set up to zoom images to various sizes, I recently bought a second hand Panamorph UH480 anamorphic lens so that I could make CinemaScope images even larger on my system (up to about 125" wide, from between 9.5 to 10.5 foot viewing distance). The larger you make any image in relation to a given seated viewing distance, generally image snap and sharpness tends to decline. What is particularly wonderful about introducing the Darblet (along with the MPC processing) is how it allows me to increase the perception of image sharpness/clarity to compensate as the image gets bigger. It was just amazing to re-view scenes from Start Trek (2009), Casino Royal, King Kong, Transformers etc
and see a pin-sharp image of incredible detail at that size. It looks like the clarity I'm used to of smaller image sizes, but retained at any size.

Though I still noted the need for caution on my part - putting up the settings to "wow" mode, e.g. for me between 50 and 70 - could work with some shots, but others like certain facial close ups could look a bit harder and harsher, saying "image processing" to me. I'll have to find the balance.
I also note that turning the Darblet up beyond 45 or so can either start to introduce obvious white line/ringing on some outlines, or perhaps simply enhance existing source ringing that was already there.

But the enhancement form the Darblet doesn't simply seem to be just "sharper and clearer." The way it seems to achieve it by altering contrast also seems to increase the general sense of, for lack of better words, ANSI "pop" and MTF. For instance the various stars against black backgrounds, street lamps in night scenes, bright futuristic graphic computer displays (Avatar/Alien), brightly lit buttons (e.g. the crew turning on controls in Alien), highlighted rain drops on windows (Jurassic Park T-Rex scene in the cars) all take on greater contrast and intensity and "pop" so it's sort of like upping the contrast look of the image overall. It can be pretty dazzling, but again, can walk the line between "real" and "film" depending on one's goal.

And it definitely made the UFC's I've recorded look sharper, though for some reason when I tried dialing the processing much higher (e.g. toward 100) it started to make the contrast look to my eye a bit more unnatural and crushed, so I dialed it back a bit.

All in all, though my experience with the Darblet has been brief, I'm extremely happy I purchased one. It adds a wonderful tool to the kit for dialing in my system, and increasing apparent image clarity and quality. Like getting new, better lenses, or somewhat upgrading the projector, but for a ridiculously lower cost. And for someone like me looking to preserve the integrity of the film image while increasing dimensionality and clarity, the combination of the Darblet and the projector's MPC settings is the magic bullet.
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