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Darbee vision darblet - Page 190

post #5671 of 6160
3/10/13 at 4:32am
Get a receiver...then the Darbee...IMHO... :-)
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post #5672 of 6160
3/10/13 at 4:50am
2 Data points for darblet un-wanted re-set and display logo:

Turned on the HT, nothing unusual to the sequence, saw the logo....This happened last week (these photos) and again last night (no photos taken for that)




I have my darblet at the end of the signal chain, sitting atop my PJ as shown, the HDMI goes into it from my Denon 4520CI, then I use a 6' HDMI cable into my Sony VW60

This is an annoyance, and every time it happens I will post here and recommend others do so as data points for the manuf to study.
I work for an Auto OE and do realize the amount of HW/SW debugging needed for a robust product....for whatever reason the darblet is resetting itself w/o command from user, that is simply a bug in it and needs to be fixed.
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post #5673 of 6160
3/10/13 at 6:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Thanx for all the replies. I don't have a receiver(no surround), so what do you all recommend for the switcher? Wouldn't going thru a switcher negate the improvements?

Any powered switcher will do. But at the same time the price of a powered switcher is the same as an entry level receiver. I'd get a receiver if I were you.
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post #5674 of 6160
3/10/13 at 11:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Works like a charm
4. You'll need either a receiver or a switcher to consolidate all your inputs as one input.

To amplify on #4, I would recommend that you insert the Darblet between your receiver and your projector. That allows your receiver to act as a switcher
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post #5675 of 6160
3/10/13 at 2:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

2 Data points for darblet un-wanted re-set and display logo:

Turned on the HT, nothing unusual to the sequence, saw the logo....This happened last week (these photos) and again last night (no photos taken for that)




I have my darblet at the end of the signal chain, sitting atop my PJ as shown, the HDMI goes into it from my Denon 4520CI, then I use a 6' HDMI cable into my Sony VW60

This is an annoyance, and every time it happens I will post here and recommend others do so as data points for the manuf to study.
I work for an Auto OE and do realize the amount of HW/SW debugging needed for a robust product....for whatever reason the darblet is resetting itself w/o command from user, that is simply a bug in it and needs to be fixed.

Keep and eye on the Darblet. Mind starting showing the 100% randomly and fried soon after. They are good people to work with and stand behind their product.
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post #5676 of 6160
3/10/13 at 4:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post

To amplify on #4, I would recommend that you insert the Darblet between your receiver and your projector. That allows your receiver to act as a switcher
I suppose I could go that route, but it does seem weird buying a receiver w/ no surround just for an HD processor...
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post #5677 of 6160
3/10/13 at 4:58pm
or as mentioned earlier, if you don't need more than 4 inputs, you can get Monoprice powered switcher for about $80 shipped.
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post #5678 of 6160
3/10/13 at 5:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

or as mentioned earlier, if you don't need more than 4 inputs, you can get Monoprice powered switcher for about $80 shipped.
When you mentioned entry level receivers being the same cost as the switcher, I mistakenly figured about triple that. $80 is no sweat though.
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post #5679 of 6160
3/10/13 at 5:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

I suppose I could go that route, but it does seem weird buying a receiver w/ no surround just for an HD processor...

Pardon. I didn't realize you are in the buying stage. It'll be difficult to find a receiver with HDMI switching and no surround functions/amps. IMHO, the Darblet should be between your video display and source component(s), whether it is a direct feed from a blu-ray player or an AVR. As others have pointed out, there are HDMI switchers and Monoprice is a good source for inexpensive ones. Check user reports before ordering one. Some seem to work better than others. Make sure the one you look at is HDMI 1.4a compliant.

Good Luck,
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post #5680 of 6160
3/10/13 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

2 Data points for darblet un-wanted re-set and display logo:

Turned on the HT, nothing unusual to the sequence, saw the logo....This happened last week (these photos) and again last night (no photos taken for that)




I have my darblet at the end of the signal chain, sitting atop my PJ as shown, the HDMI goes into it from my Denon 4520CI, then I use a 6' HDMI cable into my Sony VW60

This is an annoyance, and every time it happens I will post here and recommend others do so as data points for the manuf to study.
I work for an Auto OE and do realize the amount of HW/SW debugging needed for a robust product....for whatever reason the darblet is resetting itself w/o command from user, that is simply a bug in it and needs to be fixed.

Might I ask - How much heat is there on top of that projector? I have my Darbee heat sinked top and bottom to keep it cool!
The heat up the near to the ceiling, add what the Darbee creates, plus what the projector is producing must make it a bad scenario re cooling!
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post #5681 of 6160
3/11/13 at 3:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Thanx for all the replies. I don't have a receiver(no surround), so what do you all recommend for the switcher? Wouldn't going thru a switcher negate the improvements?

Doesn't negate the process, but may introduce a handshake issue that may require some cable swapping/replacement. Adding another connection in the chain can degrade the strength of the signal slightly, more so if you have a long run of cheap cable. I'm using a monoprice 3X1 enhanced, but if you search the thread, a few different ones have been reported to work just fine.
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post #5682 of 6160
3/11/13 at 9:05am
I have a calibration scheduled for tomorrow. Wanted to know if I should leave the darbee in the chain when calibration is done or remove it and re-install after the calibration? This is not a professional calibration but a Best Buy ISF calibration - do not want to go in to positives and negatives of BB based calibration since it is free and my display is Pioneer Plasma, 3 years old.
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post #5683 of 6160
3/11/13 at 9:15am

personally I would leave it out.   after all you are calibrating the projector/tv, not the darbee.

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post #5684 of 6160
3/11/13 at 9:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post


Might I ask - How much heat is there on top of that projector? I have my Darbee heat sinked top and bottom to keep it cool!
The heat up the near to the ceiling, add what the Darbee creates, plus what the projector is producing must make it a bad scenario re cooling!

A good question, as can be seen my PJ is open, not in a hush box, the PJ heat vents are on the front, the darblet is at the rear,
There is no "bad scenario" for cooling at all, however being fact based I'll use my IR therometer and post those for sharing.

The better question is:
What are the darblet's DFMEA and DVP&R related to thermal loads, heat cycle testing, etc.
How is it designed for "normal" usage in peoples HT?
What assumptions went into the relability of the design? What thermal values does it expect to see?

On the re-set issue:
What software DFMEA and DVP&R and debugging was done to ensure the re-set did not happen?
What fix can be pushed to people in the field?
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post #5685 of 6160
3/11/13 at 12:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nakenergy View Post

I have a calibration scheduled for tomorrow. Wanted to know if I should leave the darbee in the chain when calibration is done or remove it and re-install after the calibration? This is not a professional calibration but a Best Buy ISF calibration - do not want to go in to positives and negatives of BB based calibration since it is free and my display is Pioneer Plasma, 3 years old.

Chad B. told me he leaves it out...
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post #5686 of 6160
3/11/13 at 1:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodges69 View Post

Chad B. told me he leaves it out...

Did a before and after reading with the Darbee in and out. Found it did affect the Red somewhat on my system. So, I leave it in so the calibration is also taking into account with what Darbee is doing to the signal. Also - the best setting - 55 MAX HD before, 70 MAX HD after. So definitely Darbee is affecting the signal, so you might as well account for it in the calibration.
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post #5687 of 6160
3/11/13 at 5:31pm
I bought a powered HDMI cable from Monoprice to see if the regeneration of the signals would make things work. Unfortunately, after I got the system set up so the receiver used the fiber link for audio, I inadvertently changed something and the receiver is no longer outputting menus on the composite interface. Now I can't see receiver menus to experiment. Oh how I love this experience! And I really don't feel like a factory reset on the receiver at this point.
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post #5688 of 6160
3/11/13 at 7:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WynsWrld98 View Post

I've experienced the exact same thing a few times, have not figured out a pattern to when it happened (and no I didn't have a power outage when it happened).

This was regarding Darbee by itself going to Full Pop and onscreen display coming on and staying on by itself (same as pic mtbdudex posted above). I had it happen last night when I switched from watching a 3D Bluray (movie was over) to 2D DVR. I have the Darbee between the output of my Denon 4311 and the input of my Epson 6010 projector. Pretty annoying since I had to adjust the setting back to the way it was and also go into the menu to get rid of the onscreen display. Ugh.
Edited by WynsWrld98 - 3/11/13 at 7:52pm
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post #5689 of 6160
3/11/13 at 8:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nakenergy View Post

I have a calibration scheduled for tomorrow. Wanted to know if I should leave the darbee in the chain when calibration is done or remove it and re-install after the calibration? This is not a professional calibration but a Best Buy ISF calibration - do not want to go in to positives and negatives of BB based calibration since it is free and my display is Pioneer Plasma, 3 years old.

I had a professional calibration, not Best Buy, done some months ago, the calibrator wanted it left out. And that's what happened. Someone suggesting leaving in the loop, has to wonder what would happen to his calibration should the Darbee go kaput. A lot safer to leave it out.
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post #5690 of 6160
3/11/13 at 9:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fookoo_2010 View Post

I had a professional calibration, not Best Buy, done some months ago, the calibrator wanted it left out. And that's what happened. Someone suggesting leaving in the loop, has to wonder what would happen to his calibration should the Darbee go kaput. A lot safer to leave it out.

A lot of other factors factor into the final PQ you're going to get. Humidity, furniture being moved, voltage swings, electronic values changing in all the equipment from turning off and on, and how long it's been on. No calibration stays static: the Darbee going kaput is the least of my worries. Mr Blackburn states that the Darbee is affecting the signal from what the director of the film intended, so my reply was then to leave the Darbee in, so it's part of meeting calibration criteria, and therefore should be affecting the end result less.
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post #5691 of 6160
3/11/13 at 11:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

A lot of other factors factor into the final PQ you're going to get. Humidity, furniture being moved, voltage swings, electronic values changing in all the equipment from turning off and on, and how long it's been on. No calibration stays static: the Darbee going kaput is the least of my worries. Mr Blackburn states that the Darbee is affecting the signal from what the director of the film intended, so my reply was then to leave the Darbee in, so it's part of meeting calibration criteria, and therefore should be affecting the end result less.

Of course, you are entitled to your own opinion. If your calibration is changing that much, then good luck, with all those variables you list and have to be concerned about.
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post #5692 of 6160
3/12/13 at 5:53am
It has been shown several times now that the Darblet has no effect on calibration. Also, the images used for calibration have no content for the Darblet to act upon. However, you are calibrating the display so there should be nothing else in the chain between the pattern generator and the display. Like has been written above leave it out.
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post #5693 of 6160
3/12/13 at 6:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

A lot of other factors factor into the final PQ you're going to get. Humidity, furniture being moved, voltage swings, electronic values changing in all the equipment from turning off and on, and how long it's been on. No calibration stays static: the Darbee going kaput is the least of my worries. Mr Blackburn states that the Darbee is affecting the signal from what the director of the film intended, so my reply was then to leave the Darbee in, so it's part of meeting calibration criteria, and therefore should be affecting the end result less.

Very true about all those factors. I bet calibrations show a slight change after just a few months. Even if the Darbee should die and you don't get another one, it's effect on calibrating is minimal at best, as has been demonstrated by others than Dr. Darbee.
That said, if you have a pro calibrator that feels it should be out, no big deal I would do it his way. He may or may not be familiar with the Darbee.
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post #5694 of 6160
3/13/13 at 11:04am
I have order the new Lumagen 2021 with the integrated Darbee smile.gif

So my current DarbeeVision is for sale... If someone is looking for a Darbee at a very good price please send me a personal message.
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post #5695 of 6160
3/13/13 at 3:51pm
Anyone sent a Darblet in for f/w update recently?

If so, how'd you go about it?

I emailed Larry at Darbee on 3/5 and haven't heard back.
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post #5696 of 6160
3/13/13 at 5:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickAVManiac View Post

I have order the new Lumagen 2021 with the integrated Darbee smile.gif

Very jealous. Let us know how you like it.
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post #5697 of 6160
3/13/13 at 7:11pm
I just received my Darbee, made all the connections, and I have a faint red light and a blue intermittent light for video processing, but no pulsing green light (for micro-controller running 'normally'). And no picture obviously. Can anyone help me troubleshoot?

Chain is Panasonic DMP BD-30 - Integra DTC 9.8 - Darbee - Epson 6010

The green light is only showing when the power cord is attached, but then ceases to show at one-second intervals as specified.
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post #5698 of 6160
3/13/13 at 7:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickAVManiac View Post

I have order the new Lumagen 2021 with the integrated Darbee smile.gif

Very jealous. Let us know how you like it.

I will for sure...

Btw, my Darbee is sold to a forum member... smile.gif
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post #5699 of 6160
3/14/13 at 6:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by musicalfox View Post

I just received my Darbee, made all the connections, and I have a faint red light and a blue intermittent light for video processing, but no pulsing green light (for micro-controller running 'normally'). And no picture obviously. Can anyone help me troubleshoot?

Chain is Panasonic DMP BD-30 - Integra DTC 9.8 - Darbee - Epson 6010

The green light is only showing when the power cord is attached, but then ceases to show at one-second intervals as specified.

You will need all new equipment.




Just kidding...
Make sure you are going into and out of the Darbee on the correct sides.
Make sure you do not have Deep Color turned on.
If you have other HDMI cables try them
If one or both are short, (4' or less) try a longer one. (I have personally seen how too short does not work sometimes in applications)
If the Player has the settings for RGB and YCBCR, if RGB try changing it.
Edited by tampa8 - 3/14/13 at 6:48am
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post #5700 of 6160
3/14/13 at 1:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampa8 View Post

You will need all new equipment.




Just kidding...
Make sure you are going into and out of the Darbee on the correct sides.
Make sure you do not have Deep Color turned on.
If you have other HDMI cables try them
If one or both are short, (4' or less) try a longer one. (I have personally seen how too short does not work sometimes in applications)
If the Player has the settings for RGB and YCBCR, if RGB try changing it.

Many thanks, Tampa8. Double-checked all the things on your list. Unfortunately the only way I can it to work is to slot the Darbee in between my BD player and the Integra, it just won't play ball when it's located outbound from the Integra. Anyway, it works, and as I only use my theater for movies (and not TV or gaming), it's a satisfactory resolution, if not ideal.
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